[nzenigma]

The 'i30 sports turbo' as I call them.   I still think they are a lot of fun

Although more fun than that this morning...down to the end of the street - 0 to 60kph in 2.8 seconds. 

[Dazzler]

The 'i30 sports turbo' as I call them.   I still think they are a lot of fun

Although more fun than that this morning...down to the end of the street - 0 to 60kph in 2.8 seconds. 

I'm guessing that was in the Z3? 

[nzenigma]

I wish! 
A V6 Golf 650 bhp. about 2 sec. later (judging by the burr) we were at about 100kph but fast running out of road.
apparently they are getting these Golfs up 1300bhp and to nearly Veyron speeds.
This car has all wheel drive on demand so it doesn't have the torque steer problem that your mate's Skoda had/has.
 

[Dazzler]

I wish! 
A V6 Golf 650 bhp. about 2 sec. later (judging by the burr) we were at about 100kph but fast running out of road.
apparently they are getting these Golfs up 1300bhp and to nearly Veyron speeds.
This car has all wheel drive on demand so it doesn't have the torque steer problem that your mate's Skoda had/has.
 

Nice! I nearly bought a VW (jacket) from an OP Shop te other day... Real flash and only $6, but too small! 

[munro7389]

New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick

[tw2005]

New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick

I have to ask the obvious just in case, have you used the primer plunger to prime the lines?

Glow cct ok? all connected , nothing bent and earthed out like the busbar,  fusible link ok?

[nzenigma]

New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick

I have to ask the obvious just in case, have you used the primer plunger to prime the lines?

Glow cct ok? all connected , nothing bent and earthed out like the busbar,  fusible link ok?

Interpreting wants to start ?????    is it firing occasionally?
If so, electrics are probably ok, Go back to fuel lines and make sure pump is primed as Tw has advised

[munro7389]

It fires for a quick sec then stops I assume that I am priming the pump right by pressing until goes hard and then try to start and then pump it again and continue that process.

[tw2005]

It fires for a quick sec then stops I assume that I am priming the pump right by pressing until goes hard and then try to start and then pump it again and continue that process.

Sounds about right, only ever done it once, took a bit to get it running again.

[munro7389]

It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?

[tw2005]

Wild card guess, solenoid with vacumn lines above oil filter, is that connected? I don't have my manuals to look deeper @nzenigma  may be able to dig on this one. yes that's the anti- studder  or run-on valve so the engine shuts down cleanly for want of better words

[nzenigma]

It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?

As you have discovered (re Gumtree) I am psychic, however, I'm at a loss  so could you send photo of your little valve .

[tw2005]

It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?

As you have discovered (re Gumtree) I am psychic, however, I'm at a loss  so could you send photo of your little valve .

Diaphram that sits on the side of the TB, can't miss it. Open when running but is closed at shutdown to choke engine. similar to this

[nzenigma]

hardly a little valve so I wait. Think he needs to crack a line to get rid of air.

[munro7389]

It won't let me add a pic. Bit yes that is it in your pic

[tw2005]

definitely connected to that solenoid controlled vacuum valve.





I think that's the one, has electrical connection too.

[nzenigma]

Forget about it. Loosen the fuel line going to the rail . Prime HP pump using filter primer. Turn motor over to push any air out. Tighten,  It should eventually fire up.

[nzenigma]

check the one tw has put up , make sure no inlet is broken. Could be stuffed if car has been in a head on.

[tw2005]

Forget about it. Loosen the fuel line going to the rail . Prime HP pump using filter primer. Turn motor over to push any air out. Tighten,  It should eventually fire up.

Motor is alreading running, just that shut down flap he needs to figure out, can't do any more unless we see what is presently connected or as you say hidden damage from accident.

[munro7389]

So car drives (with not much power). The brakes are very stiff and don't stop the car very well. It will only start with with the EGR valve sensor unplugged or the vacuum hose  disconnected. I have my old one with the solenoid. I'll try that.
So issues I have now are the flap closes up when everything is connected and don't have much brakes. Note. I did take off the hose to the brake booster.

[tw2005]

So car drives (with not much power). The brakes are very stiff and don't stop the car very well. It will only start with with the EGR valve sensor unplugged or the vacuum hose  disconnected. I have my old one with the solenoid. I'll try that.
So issues I have now are the flap closes up when everything is connected and don't have much brakes. Note. I did take off the hose to the brake booster.

did you put it back on! No vac line to booster equals no power assisted brakes, could be part of the other issue too?

 

[tw2005]

The turbo is also variable vane and vacuum driven so there's a common denominator here. vacuum, vacuum lines.

maybe some lines are crossed up? but you need vacuum for brake boost, vacuum for that intake flap, vacuum for the turbo vane adjustment.

[tw2005]

This is the vacuum pump, sits on the end of the head and in front of that junction where the brake booster hose goes to the mounted junction.

check the connections and see if anything is missing

[tw2005]

[munro7389]

Well it won't start with it on. Otherwise I have to unplug the sensor on top of the EGR valve.

[nzenigma]

The turbo is also variable vane and vacuum driven so there's a common denominator here. vacuum, vacuum lines.

maybe some lines are crossed up? but you need vacuum for brake boost, vacuum for that intake flap, vacuum for the turbo vane adjustment.

exactly. this new brake failure has to tell you that you have lost vacuum. 
 The car will barely pull up the driveway if the turbo is not functioning=vacuum loss .

Look for vacuum lines that are crossed cracked split not fitting the correct connection. Look for plastic connectors that have been snapped off. The valve I told you to check has three connections from memory, one is a bit hidden.

, if motor is running you should detect vacuum from pump, do you?

if the above is functioning ok, you MUST be able to hear a leak. Use a rubber hose to your ear.

[munro7389]

The replacement motor is an auto and my car is a manual if that makes a difference.

[nzenigma]

The replacement motor is an auto and my car is a manual if that makes a difference.

No difference. Follow my advice carefully ,  it is easy to miss a leak. After you establish that you DO HAVE VACUUM make the hose stethoscope and listen for the leak.

[tw2005]

Only difference I could spot was the routing of the intercooler piping, you're going to have to be deliberate and thorough checking every connection, every hose every harness. There's another electrically operated vac line near that other that controls the turbo geometry.

[tw2005]