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i30 1.6 CRDi intermittent total electrical failure

Loix22 · 13 · 3338

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Offline Loix22

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Hi Everyone,

I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a fault like this, or if anyone had any idea what it could be.

After the 40k service the start/stop wasn't working anymore so I had the dealer check the battery health and charging and they said it was fine.

A few weeks later I get in the car to start it, all dash lights etc are on as normal but as soon as I turn the key to start nothing happens and all the dash lights go off, totally dead no electrical power. Recovery guy comes and opens the bonnet and starts it with his starter thing first time. I speak to the dealer who tell me its probably the battery so I get it replaced (not by the dealer though).

About a month later everything is fine, start/stop is working again too (so I know the battery is healthy). I'm sitting in traffic, autostop has stopped the car, I put my foot on the clutch to restart and poooof all power off again. I cannot restart. When I slam the door I get the dash lights back on but when I try to start they go off again. After a few times of slamming the door the lights stop coming on.

While waiting for the recovery man I start trying to check the fuses and read online that the main fuse might be under the bonnet; I take a look but cant get the fuse box cover open so slam the bonnet slightly harder than normal. I get back in the car, all the dash lights are on, it starts and I drive home.

Obviously the battery connections have been checked to make sure they are not loose and the dealer has done a check of the earthing points but thats about it.

I have spoken to Hyundai UK about this issue because I am worried it could cut out at high speed; their response is pretty much "we won't say either way if your car is safe or not but if you die in a horrible car crash please let us know"

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks for reading.
  • 2012 i30


Offline Dazzler

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 :welcumwagon: :Agoodpost:

Very well explained. A real can of worms. I will have to leave it to the tech heads on the site I think!

@cruiserfied @nzenigma  and anyone else with any ideas!
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline nzenigma

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"we won't say either way if your car is safe or not but if you die in a horrible car crash please let us know"

Before Gonz chimes in  :P .... this has to become our moto.  :snigger:
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline nzenigma

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Mate, from your description I would be first looking at connections close to the battery. Check the larger wires also (black / -ve)  that go to the chassis.
The fault is sensitive because slamming the doors has an affect. So gently move wires and looms and see if you can replicate a change. This is not a big drama , you will solve it, go forth!  :)


Later addition,
 there are three +ve cables attached to the fuse/relay box. Attached by 10mm nuts, one may be loose.
The box cover is secured by 3 (from memory) small plastic levers.  Just press on them to unclip the cover.
« Last Edit: December 13, 2016, 19:43:15 by nzenigma »
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Offline tw2005

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Also consider reseating the fusible links in the fuse box as well. Could have a dirty contact. Had something similar happen in 2 year old Toyota Hilux Diesel. Initially we assumed it was batt but turned out the main fusible link had bad contact in the engine bay fuse box. A quick unplug and reseat and we were running again.
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline nzenigma

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yes, give the links a light tap first. Sort of door slam test , but close up.
On the diesel there will probably be a fusible link on the +ve battery terminal clip. a known culprit.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Loix22

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Thanks to everyone who has replied so far!

I told Hyundai UK that their stance of not telling me if the car was safe or not was unacceptable and that I would be contacting UK trading standards.....imagine my surprise when they actually called me to arrange getting the car to dealer for 2 day extensive investigation and a free of charge hire car!

I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow so I will give an update soon!
  • 2012 i30


Offline nzenigma

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Great news :)

Good Luck  :)

please, let us know the verdict!
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Phil №❶

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Squeaky wheel gets the oil :exclaim: :goodjob2:
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Offline Dazzler

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Squeaky wheel gets the oil :exclaim: :goodjob2:

Great minds think alike!  :goodjob:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Loix22

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So an update:

The two day extensive test was a waste of time except for the fact the dealer told me that he feels the car is unsafe to drive.

I told Hyundai UK I would not pick up the car as the dealer said it was unsafe. It is still with the dealer a month after the first visit and I still have the hire car.

  • 2012 i30


Offline nzenigma

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and I still have the hire car.
Sounds like you may be driving the Bentley for the rest of 2017.

Well played. At a guess your car lives in a big too hard basket out the back of the dealership, while dealer waits for Hyundai to come to the rescue.

Thanks from the team for your update(s)  :)
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Loix22

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and I still have the hire car.
Sounds like you may be driving the Bentley for the rest of 2017.

Well played. At a guess your car lives in a big too hard basket out the back of the dealership, while dealer waits for Hyundai to come to the rescue.

Thanks from the team for your update(s)  :)

Agreed. Alas the hire car is another i30 which just reminds me how much I like my car when it actually works.

The dealer are speaking to Hyundai technical but I am not confident that they actually understand the fault
  • 2012 i30


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