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Your opinion on the EGR valve

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Offline naser_1998x

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Hey guys, I have a used Hyundai i30 2011 CRDi Diesel. I am not sure if the EGR has ever been cleaned on it and I don't think it has. The car hasn't showed any bad signs or error codes towards the EGR valve. However, I don't want to leave the EGR valve to get dirty and then causing other problems.  So do you think I should go on about cleaning it even though no errors are showing and the car is running fine? or Should it be clean it every so many miles?
Thanks in advance
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Online BC

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Following a discussion with my dealer re a very smelly exhaust and smoke on startup, my 2010 Crdi had the EGR cleaned (by the dealer) at about 60K.  They said it was very dirty.  From memory a new valve was over $1000 (maybe wrong, it was a while ago).  Anyway, it made no difference.  A change to BP fuel did reduce the smoky starts but it has returned a bit.
Just putting up with it now  (90k) . . .
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Offline sundiz

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Cleaned my egr at 60tkm if I remember correctly. Just to see its condition. The actual valve was not bad, but the egr cooler was dirty. Cooler is between valve and intake manifold. That means that the intake manifold is also filled with same crap. I guess I will take the egr out again somewhere 150-200tkm and also take the intake manifold out and clean that also. If I still have this same car.  I am currently at 125tkm. Never had any issues with the egr, fault codes etc.

BC - smoky starts may indicate that the glow plugs are not working properly. Better check if they the are OK. Do you get black or white smoke?
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Offline naser_1998x

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I get white smoke never black smoke and I don't get a lot of smoke. Is it an easy job be the way - cleaning the EGR manifold and the EGR
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Offline sundiz

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White smoke indicates to old/broken glow plugs. I recommend checking them. If the plugs are broken white smoke should come with cold engine. When engine is hot, there should be no white smoke. Colder the weather (colder engine) the more white smoke you get.

I assume you know that you have to glow the engine before starting. One member had starting issues because car was started like a petrol without waiting the glow light to turn off...

Egr cleaning is easy DIY job if you have right tools. It just takes some time as you need to remove hoses etc to get your hands to the egr. If you remove egr cooler you have to drain coolant also. That is also easy job. You can read my full service story from here: :link: 1.6crdi (2008) DIY servicing: Coolant, EGR, cleaning, brake & clutch fluid etc.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2017, 14:21:58 by sundiz »
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Offline naser_1998x

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Sorry I meant white smoke comes out  as the engine is heating up because its cold outside. And when you say "glow the engine before starting" do you mean turn on the ignition but don't start the car and wait for it for a couple of seconds, then start the car? - that's what I do.
I'll check out your full service story thanks a lot
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Offline panthersteve

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Sorry I meant white smoke comes out  as the engine is heating up because its cold outside.
If you mean you get a slight white vapour as you warm up the engine that can be seen if looking at the exhaust pipe then that would probably be ok. But if you mean white smoke that is usually enough to see in a rear view mirror then this is not normal.
I too had the white smoke issue and mine was a couple of dud glowplugs, but they only tested as dud when they were cold so if I drove to the dealer and had them tested they seemed ok but if they were tested before starting the car they failed.

And when you say "glow the engine before starting" do you mean turn on the ignition but don't start the car and wait for it for a couple of seconds, then start the car? - that's what I do.
It is not a couple of seconds that you need to wait for, you need to wait until the preheat light on the dash goes out
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Offline naser_1998x

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Yes yes I know exactly what you're talking about. The light on the dashboard's shape is red and it looks like a twisted wire with two loops, correct?
Thanks for your opinion in advance by the way
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Online BC

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BC - smoky starts may indicate that the glow plugs are not working properly. Better check if they the are OK. Do you get black or white smoke?

The smoke is white.  The glow plugs were checked by the dealer and all ok.  However, as per another post on this thread, they're probably only failing when cold.  Put up with it for the moment . . .
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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I took out the entire intake system in my 2013 crdi at 60 k km.
Just to check the condition and clean... was really clean compared with my old opel astra 1.7 cdti at same km...
I still cleaned all though... greased the buterfly's, cleaned, reinstall..
All good for now.
I changed the glow plugs at 37k km though... now.. 2 years on them no issues.
All the best!
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Offline nzenigma

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The glow plugs should be functional for around 100,000km or more. The advantage of the early change is that they are easy to remove. By 100k, it is more tricky and needs to be done with the engine hot.

EGR spray cleaner used when doing a service will usually keep the system clean. Otherwise seal it with a plate.
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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At my car, at 36k, one plug was dead and the other 3 were also almost dead. I noticed because the outside temp was arround 0 degrees Celsius and the car started in 3 cylinders. I have installed 4 new NGK plugs at the time and no problems yet. I have 95k km now.
About EGR, you cannot plug completely as the system will trigger an fault and will cut power( limp home mode).
At least at newer cars.
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Offline nzenigma

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I have installed 4 new NGK plugs at the time and no problems yet. I have 95k km now..
Illustrating that they should have a life longer then 36k
About EGR, you cannot plug completely as the system will trigger an fault and will cut power( limp home mode).
At least at newer cars.
Plate has a small hole to overcome that problem.
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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Hmmm...interesting!
Please! Do you know the hole diameter? I would do everything to stop that crap going back to the engine..
Thank You!
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Offline nzenigma

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About 5mm. You will find the plates for sale on Ebay
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Offline Paolo5

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EGR spray cleaner used when doing a service will usually keep the system clean.

Hi nzenigma,
If you get a few minutes I (for one) would appreciate your regime of how and where (with a photo) you would introduce the spray of some upper engine cleaner in the diesel i30 engine.

Thanks,
Paolo


Offline Phil №❶

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Me too  :exclaim:
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Offline nzenigma

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ok free time tomorrow,  back then  :)
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Offline nzenigma

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Hi Paulo ....& Phil,

When you use the spray you always need to miss ( go in after) the mass air sensor, to avoid damaging it, and also to avoid a volatile residue build up in the turbo-intercooler circuit.

Remove the air intake 'A' (the 2 X 10mm bolts) purely for the sake of convenience to get at pipe 'B'.  Loosen the clamp on either end of the rubber pipe 'B' and squirt EGR cleaner in there. Work with the engine at about 1500 rpm so that there is enough air flow to take the cleaner all through the engine inlet system .... you don't want the gas building up in the intercooler at the other end of pipe B.
You will find the motor will start to use the cleaner as fuel and will speed up. That's Ok, just stop spraying and resume when the motor slows down.

http://i.imgur.com/mUzvdIY.jpg
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Offline Paolo5

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Thanks, nzenigma!

Please correct me if I am wrong...but from what I have read, this 'treatment' needs to be done on an engine that is hot.
*Half the spray goes into 'Pipe B' while the motor is off.
*Wait 10-15mins before starting the engine to give the cleaner a chance to do its thing.
*Then, when it starts, spray the rest of the contents in whilst keeping the revs at 1500rpm (as nzenigma said).
*Once the can is empty, idle the engine until the smoke disappears, re-connect clamps and bolts etc and take for a drive.
*After the drive, do your oil and filter change.

Does all of this sound correct?

I have had an EGR plate (with hole) fitted at 80K, which was only 3K ago. I hope to do the upper engine cleaner treatment just before the next oil and filter change, which is due at 85K.

With the plate fitted and the upper engine treatment done, would you expect to need to do the upper engine clean on the diesel i30 again? If so, how frequently?

Many thanks,
Paolo

By the way....I commend you on your nice spotless engine bay!
« Last Edit: June 24, 2017, 07:27:35 by Paolo5 »


Offline nzenigma

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 :D Thanks I polish it daily.
Yes you have the correct procedure .
Some advise to spray half in while running, leave motor off, then use the rest at 1500rpm.
If Subaru is advising motor off, then make sure you lift the flap and spray directly down into the inlet manifold at point 'B'. Not the pipe.

With the plate fitted, the air flow should be sufficient to deal with the ERG deposits.
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Offline Paolo5

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I just went out to my car to survey the situation in readiness for an upper engine clean. The clamp holding the rubber 'Pipe B' on the egine side doesn't have a slot (for a screwdriver) like other hoseclamps that I have used.








How is this clamp undone?

Thanks,
Paolo


Offline nzenigma

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Grip the head with large pliers. Half turn and then rest by hand. Reverse to tighten.
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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That is just an cap. Take a pliers and pull that cap off, will reveal the real clamp hex head..
Goodluck!
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Offline nzenigma

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  :crazy1: Then it wont look original  :mrgreen:
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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Lolll!! Sry, you have something with me?.... As you take that cap out... you can put back in😄😄😄. You have verry powerfull fingers iff you can moove that clip!!
I will make a picture with mine...even the paint mark is in same location😄.
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Offline nzenigma

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It ok, I understand  :)
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Offline kamikazeeugen

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I ordered the latest version of MPPS. Was cheap and i am thinking to remove the egr straight from software. Here, this kind of service is arround 300 euro. My old mpps version couldint read edc17 ecu.
I am thinking to completly remove those exhaust gases to go into my engine.
I will let you know! Even if i will brake my ecu lol😂.
All the best!
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Offline diesel1984

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Hope you dodn't brick te ecu by now. To remove egr map fom ecu  isn't just on/off enable/disable kind of job.
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