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Cam belt replacement 2010 i30 2.0

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Offline Angus Macleod

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    • nz New Zealand
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My partners 2010 130 wagon 2.0 has now reached 140,000km, the owners manual suggests it is time for a cam belt change. I was going to use the trick where you loosen off the tensioner and run a stanley knife around the circumference of the belt. Pull the front half of, then slid the new one half one, and cut the old belt away. I have done this on a couple of Toyota's with success. Has anyone tried this on an I30? I thought I would try obtaining a service manual (for the torque settings and just in case) however don't seem to be able to find one, Haynes don't seem to have a manual, are there any other options?
Thanks for your help.

Regards Angus

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Offline tw2005

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My partners 2010 130 wagon 2.0 has now reached 140,000km, the owners manual suggests it is time for a cam belt change. I was going to use the trick where you loosen off the tensioner and run a stanley knife around the circumference of the belt. Pull the front half of, then slid the new one half one, and cut the old belt away. I have done this on a couple of Toyota's with success. Has anyone tried this on an I30? I thought I would try obtaining a service manual (for the torque settings and just in case) however don't seem to be able to find one, Haynes don't seem to have a manual, are there any other options?
Thanks for your help.

Regards Angus
Some things to consider. I believe ( not being a Toyota expert) some Toyota engines are non interference so if you get it wrong you're not going to smash the pistons into the valves.

The Hyundai G4GD is interference, get it wrong or have a belt failure and you're likely going to need an engine.

At 140 000k and give the interval is shown as 7 years or 140 000k (providing it's inspected) I would consider.

- replace all idler and tensioner pulleys including new belt tensioner.
 Have a tensioner fail or weak and the belt will likely skip , possibly wear prematurely and valves meet pistons.
- have the bearings seize in the puleys and same as above.
- The water pump is timing belt driven, will it make it to 280 000k? How long are you keeping this? Consider replacing it too.
While you're in there, replacing camshaft and crankshaft seals also is a smart move . Also the new belt won't be stretched like the old.

Stick to OEM quality parts too. This set obviously has lasted well, the next set should too.

I stuck to this policy in the past and it serves you well, I've read a few horror stories where corners have been cut, cheap tensioners failing, incorrect tensioned belts and incorrect fitment ending in tears with other interference motors.

It's a big and important job, need to be done right. :exclaim:


I would not  cheap out and cut corners unless you have no choice
« Last Edit: November 26, 2017, 09:55:58 by tw2005 »
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Offline Angus Macleod

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    • nz New Zealand
      Lyttelton
Thanks for the input,
Of course you are right. I  purchased a CD manual from Australia on ebay, and I see I can get a kit containing the tensioner, belt,  water pump and seals from Australia for not  much more than I can buy the Cam belt and Tensioner in NZ. I don't know how  long we will keep the car, however my son is just learning to drive so will probably pass it on to him. Even if we sell it, it is a bit of dirty trick to ignore the water pump and seals.
Thanks for  your help

Merry Christmas
Angus
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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks for coming back with a response.  Our advisors who do it for love, get rightly frustrated if their good work isn't acknowledged.  Have a nice Christmas.  :goodjob:
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