Code P1690. Immobilizer dash light will not turn off. Car wont start.

Jboy · **December 30, 2018, 12:45:58**

Hey guys.
I'm a new member although I have followed quite a lot of the posts on this forum since I've owned my I30 over the years.

I've searched high and low on the internet and through this forum and I haven't been able to find much about my issue at all. so I thought id ask the experts (you guys)

Basically, the immobilizer dash light is on permanently at the minute. It is even on with the key removed from the ignition. and my car will not start.

I had the Roadside recovery guy out to see if he could start the car, he couldn't. He did pull me some codes, however.

The code's I am getting are;
P1690 - Immobilizer Smartra Error. < the Culprit.

Also, two other codes which may or may not be related. I will share anyway.

P0031 - Oxygen sensor heater circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1.
P0504 - Stop switch 1 and 2 Synchronization error. (see below)

Some background info,
Now I don't know if it is related but this problem only began after I was messing under the drivers' footwell. My brake switch went faulty and I was giving it a wiggle and a tap and I removed that felt cover to get access to the brake switch. (break switch is still faulty as I haven't had a chance to get the part yet).

I'm at a loss. the weird thing is how it suddenly came on after I checked out the brake switch. however, I cannot be certain if it was immediately after because I did drive after I messed with the brake switch and the engine was running the entire time. it was the after I parked up and the following day the car would not start due to this immobilizer issue.

Are the brake circuit and immobiliser circuit related? is their some wiring under the driver's side footwell I might have disturbed?
ah I don't know! have any of you guys experienced this?

Thanks for your time

UPDATE:
links for photos showing condition

20181230-133519 ? imgbb.com

<Key removed

20181230-133602 ? imgbb.com

<with key to ON position

immo ? imgbb.com <Does this mean anything to anyone? this circuit shows the Immo light (red arrow)

Video
http://vimeo.com/user93344760/review/308780032/b2e4d5231b (battery is running very low)

eye30 · **Reply #1: December 30, 2018, 12:55:56**

Are you still in warranty?

If so, just get breakdown to take car to drealers.

You could try this....
Some on here swear by disconecting the battery for some 30 minutes to clear the "inner brains of the car"
Reconnect and see if that helps.

Jboy · **Reply #2: December 30, 2018, 13:06:48**

Quote from: eye30 on December 30, 2018, 12:55:56

Are you still in warranty?

If so, just get breakdown to take car to drealers.

You could try this....
Some on here swear by disconecting the battery for some 30 minutes to clear the "inner brains of the car"
Reconnect and see if that helps.

Hi! Thanks for a rapid response. I am not in warranty. The model I have is 2009 I30 1.6 TDCI.
I have also had the battery disconnected for an extended time whilst I charged it externally. still the same once I re-attached battery

eye30 · **Reply #3: December 30, 2018, 13:12:42**

I think the brake switch is a recall item as it was done on my previous 2007 crdi.

Do you know whether that has been replaced?

There are others on here with detailed knowledge so you may have to wait until they get up, aussie members.

Jboy · **Reply #4: December 30, 2018, 13:19:13**

Quote from: eye30 on December 30, 2018, 13:12:42

I think the brake switch is a recall item as it was done on my previous 2007 crdi.

Do you know whether that has been replaced?

There are others on here with detailed knowledge so you may have to wait until they get up, aussie members.

I do remember getting a letter about a recall but I never actually got it replaced.

Shambles · **Reply #5: December 30, 2018, 13:25:05**

Don't think this has a bearing on your cause, but I'll dump it here anyway...

Starting problems - Immobiliser stifles engine start-up

Jboy · **Reply #6: December 30, 2018, 14:10:56**

Quote from: Shambles on December 30, 2018, 13:25:05

Don't think this has a bearing on your cause, but I'll dump it here anyway...

Starting problems - Immobiliser stifles engine start-up

Very interesting. I Have also pulled that fuse. I checked it with a multimeter and I am getting 12+v. that fuse is actually the fuse you pull if you are leaving the car idle for some time. still no avail. I do get a fair bit of condensation in my car though. The link you posted if a very close issue to mine I would say. Thanks for that!

Jboy · **Reply #7: December 30, 2018, 14:24:09**

Quote from: Jboy on December 30, 2018, 12:45:58

UPDATE:
links for photos showing condition
20181230-133519 ? imgbb.com <Key removed
20181230-133602 ? imgbb.com <with key to ON position

Video
http://vimeo.com/user93344760/review/308780032/b2e4d5231b (battery is running very low)

Added some media which may be usefull

tw2005 · **Reply #8: December 30, 2018, 18:10:33**

How aggressive were you under that area? were you pulling on harnesses, grabbing at wires other han the brake switch?

Just wondering because the SMARTRA module sits right at the very top of one of the cross beams above where you were.

You state you're not sure if / when or if it's related and the engine was running the entire time.

I'm thinking this, once the vehicle has been started correctly with the SMARTRA reading and processing the transponder data received it's quite likely it plays no further part until the vehicle is shut down and restarted, therefor I am wondering if yiu got snagged and ripped the cable out from it, now you have cycled the vehicle and the IMMO light permanently on with error code

P1690 - Immobilizer Smartra Error.

My gut is suggesting you need to check if the module is connected and you need to be a contortionist to get in there to feel it.

A disconnected or faulty SMARTRA module I would think would flag up as soon as power is applied.

Also is the battery fully charged and strong? have yo tried another key?

I doubt you'll be able to see it, if you know someone with a borescope you could feed the camera up there to take a peek or you may just get lucky and find it.

The other thing worth checking could be the cabling from the antenna ring at the ignition barrel and the entire harness just in case it's been pulled or damaged, I'm yet to read up on that code

tw2005 · **Reply #9: December 30, 2018, 18:27:50**

I believe this image is LHD however should give an idea as that beam is across the top of the steering column area

May be some info useful in this

"My Car Won't Start" | What To Do - Page 19 - Team-BHP

Jboy · **Reply #10: December 30, 2018, 18:30:57**

Quote from: tw2005 on December 30, 2018, 18:10:33

How aggressive were you under that area? were you pulling on harnesses, grabbing at wires other han the brake switch?

Just wondering because the SMARTRA module sits right at the very top of one of the cross beams above where you were.

You state you're not sure if / when or if it's related and the engine was running the entire time.

I'm thinking this, once the vehicle has been started correctly with the SMARTRA reading and processing the transponder data received it's quite likely it plays no further part until the vehicle is shut down and restarted, therefor I am wondering if yiu got snagged and ripped the cable out from it, now you have cycled the vehicle and the IMMO light permanently on with error code

P1690 - Immobilizer Smartra Error.

My gut is suggesting you need to check if the module is connected and you need to be a contortionist to get in there to feel it.

A disconnected or faulty SMARTRA module I would think would flag up as soon as power is applied.

Also is the battery fully charged and strong? have yo tried another key?

I doubt you'll be able to see it, if you know someone with a borescope you could feed the camera up there to take a peek or you may just get lucky and find it.

The other thing worth checking could be the cabling from the antenna ring at the ignition barrel and the entire harness just in case it's been pulled or damaged, I'm yet to read up on that code

Hey. I was only aggressive to remove the felt cover type thing to access the brake switch. I did have to give it a good pull but other than that I was only messing with the brake switch. I gave it a tap and a wiggle and worked the plunger with my fingers to try and get it working. I didn't consciously mess with anything else including wiring. unless the yanking that felt cover did some damage? I did inspect under that area for loose wiring but I didn't notice anything but at the same time, I don't really know exactly where to look either.

tw2005 · **Reply #11: December 30, 2018, 18:39:17**

Quote from: Jboy on December 30, 2018, 18:30:57

Quote from: tw2005 on December 30, 2018, 18:10:33
How aggressive were you under that area? were you pulling on harnesses, grabbing at wires other han the brake switch?

Just wondering because the SMARTRA module sits right at the very top of one of the cross beams above where you were.

You state you're not sure if / when or if it's related and the engine was running the entire time.

I'm thinking this, once the vehicle has been started correctly with the SMARTRA reading and processing the transponder data received it's quite likely it plays no further part until the vehicle is shut down and restarted, therefor I am wondering if yiu got snagged and ripped the cable out from it, now you have cycled the vehicle and the IMMO light permanently on with error code

P1690 - Immobilizer Smartra Error.

My gut is suggesting you need to check if the module is connected and you need to be a contortionist to get in there to feel it.

A disconnected or faulty SMARTRA module I would think would flag up as soon as power is applied.

Also is the battery fully charged and strong? have yo tried another key?

I doubt you'll be able to see it, if you know someone with a borescope you could feed the camera up there to take a peek or you may just get lucky and find it.

The other thing worth checking could be the cabling from the antenna ring at the ignition barrel and the entire harness just in case it's been pulled or damaged, I'm yet to read up on that code

Hey. I was only aggressive to remove the felt cover type thing to access the brake switch. I did have to give it a good pull but other than that I was only messing with the brake switch. I gave it a tap and a wiggle and worked the plunger with my fingers to try and get it working. I didn't consciously mess with anything else including wiring. unless the yanking that felt cover did some damage? I did inspect under that area for loose wiring but I didn't notice anything but at the same time, I don't really know exactly where to look either.

Yeah, hard to explain really. I see you have the cover off the column, the antenna ring is right there around the ign barrel, start with that and check it's ok , connected etc.

The other well it's up there somewhere, I know I've got my hand up there and disconnected it but snapped it of the mount when I was experimenting doing an ecu swapover .

You may have to enlist the help with someone with the factory diagnostics to nail down the issue. Is the car battery good?

Jboy · **Reply #12: December 30, 2018, 18:54:37**

Quote from: tw2005 on December 30, 2018, 18:39:17

Yeah, hard to explain really. I see you have the cover off the column, the antenna ring is right there around the ign barrel, start with that and check it's ok , connected etc.

I did try to test this. Wasnt exactly sure how to or can you advise? i set my multimeter to ohms and tested the 2 pins from the antenna and i did get a reading but i dont really know if i was doing the right thing with the multimeter?

Quote from: tw2005 on December 30, 2018, 18:39:17

The other well it's up there somewhere, I know I've got my hand up there and disconnected it but snapped it of the mount when I was experimenting doing an ecu swapover .

You may have to enlist the help with someone with the factory diagnostics to nail down the issue. Is the car battery good?

The car battery is good I'm currently recharging it again. the day it stopped working it was turning over the starter like there was no tomorrow. would i need to remove the instrument cluster to get to the module?

Jboy · **Reply #13: December 30, 2018, 18:57:56**

a bit more info. i did speak to a locksmith and asked about getting a second key made fresh and he said that it won't be a key problem because the light is on solid. and he said that means the car thinks there is a key in the ignition?

tw2005 · **Reply #14: December 30, 2018, 19:23:57**

Don't bother removing speedo you won't get to it from there, it is in a hard place and likely for a good reason too. No I don't think a multimeter is going to help. Try doing a search in the forum, there's a few issues like this, one I read it sounded it was immo but I think it was crank sensor.

Don't think it's going be a straight forward fault finder

2009 i30 Comfort : immobiliser faulty, crank, wont start, disable immobiliser?

Immobiliser Light on and not starting

P1690 trouble code. Can I mix-and-match new components?

I don't have time to do much more at the moment.

The fault may be unrelated to what you've been doing and coincidentally happened, can't be sure.

Jboy · **Reply #15: December 30, 2018, 22:07:42**

Quote from: Jboy on December 30, 2018, 12:45:58

immo ? imgbb.com <Does this mean anything to anyone? this circuit shows the Immo light (red arrow)

Updated main post. Could this help identify my issue? (red arrow)

nzenigma · **Reply #16: December 31, 2018, 20:05:23**

If you look left on cct diagram you will see key and antenna . The antenna is in the black plastic around the ignition lock. IF it or wires to it go open cct, your smarta system is dead. This does happen, coil is a bit delicate and connectors can be disturbed.

It is too coincidental that you were dicking around under the dash.
Ignore comments about brake switch .
You have disturbed the above cct wires or the cct to smarta etc that @tw2005 has mentioned.

Jboy · **Reply #17: December 31, 2018, 20:36:45**

Quote from: nzenigma on December 31, 2018, 20:05:23

If you look left on cct diagram you will see key and antenna . The antenna is in the black plastic around the ignition lock. IF it or wires to it go open cct, your smarta system is dead. This does happen, coil is a bit delicate and connectors can be disturbed.

It is too coincidental that you were dicking around under the dash.
Ignore comments about brake switch .
You have disturbed the above cct wires or the cct to smarta etc that @tw2005 has mentioned.

Thanks for the response. i have an auto-electrician coming to take a look on the 2nd. I will update with any advances.

I'll let him know I was messing under the dash but I must say the only thing I can see that is even slightly loose to near where I was messing is the OBDII port

Jboy · **Reply #18: January 02, 2019, 10:55:54**

Problem solved!

So the problem was there was water in the EM11 connector, under the Drivers footwell. This was causing a short.

The connector was disconnected and contacts cleaned. PROBLEM SOLVED.

Inkedimmo-LI ? imgbb.com <EM11 location on Circuit Drawing (green arrow)

20190102-102044 ? imgbb.com <EM11 Switch condition before cleaning.

I'm thankful the Auto-electrician knew what he was doing because this could have been a pain and expensive if it wasn't spotted!

And thanks for all of your posts!

Dazzler · **Reply #19: January 02, 2019, 10:59:52**

Thanks for getting back to us.

Shambles · **Reply #20: January 02, 2019, 11:03:51**

Quote from: Jboy on December 30, 2018, 14:10:56

The link you posted if a very close issue to mine I would say.

Looks like it was extremely close

Great that it's sorted. I'm pleased for you.

Jboy · **Reply #21: January 02, 2019, 12:10:16**

hopyfully this will help people in the future! if you need a photo of the location of the EM11 connector i'll post one. Very easy to get access too.

wooly · **Reply #22: January 02, 2019, 12:24:50**

Quote from: Jboy on January 02, 2019, 10:55:54

Problem solved!

Inkedimmo-LI ? imgbb.com <EM11 location on Circuit Drawing (green arrow)

Interesting stuff !!
Where do you find the circuit diagrams you have been referring to in this thread ?

tw2005 · **Reply #23: January 02, 2019, 17:56:46**

Quote from: Jboy on January 02, 2019, 10:55:54

Problem solved!

So the problem was there was water in the EM11 connector, under the Drivers footwell. This was causing a short.

The connector was disconnected and contacts cleaned. PROBLEM SOLVED.

Inkedimmo-LI ? imgbb.com <EM11 location on Circuit Drawing (green arrow)

20190102-102044 ? imgbb.com <EM11 Switch condition before cleaning.

I'm thankful the Auto-electrician knew what he was doing because this could have been a pain and expensive if it wasn't spotted!

And thanks for all of your posts!

Crikey, that connector could prove interesting going forward. Looks like you got to it just in time. That cct diagram would have helped trace out the cct.

I think this will be a good example to keep, not something I'd expect to see over here with our conditions.

So the next question is how did it get wet? WHat's been compromised, is the guard full of junk and not draining, loose boot?? Is that the harness that goes through the drivers kick panel, photos are alway appreciated .

No way I was expecting that.

tw2005 · **Reply #24: January 02, 2019, 18:42:30**

nzenigma · **Reply #25: January 02, 2019, 20:40:59**

Quote from: Jboy on January 02, 2019, 12:10:16

hopyfully this will help people in the future! if you need a photo of the location of the EM11 connector i'll post one. Very easy to get access too.

Thanks for coming back with your man's expert repair.

I would suggest that the connector was in a dicey state and as I initially thought , playing around in that area caused something (it ) to fail properly.

Happy motoring

Jboy · **Reply #26: January 02, 2019, 21:10:24**

I just managed to fix my brake switch too. pulled the brake switch apart there was some black soot over some internal connectors so I cleaned it all and reassembled and my lights now work again.

HOWEVER... (unrelated to brake switch)

The IMMO light HAS returned BUT the car does at least start now. I'm guessing this isn't the end of this issue yet!

tw2005 · **Reply #27: January 02, 2019, 22:45:05**

Quote from: Jboy on January 02, 2019, 21:10:24

I just managed to fix my brake switch too. pulled the brake switch apart there was some black soot over some internal connectors so I cleaned it all and reassembled and my lights now work again.

HOWEVER... (unrelated to brake switch)

The IMMO light HAS returned BUT the car does at least start now. I'm guessing this isn't the end of this issue yet!

Has teh brake switch ever been replaced under the service campaign for free?

Known issue, can cause ESP off light to stay on and other problems. The immo light comes on when you strat the car, when it starts blinking that's when it's not good

nzenigma · **Reply #28: January 02, 2019, 22:54:51**

Ive just had time to re-read and look at that socket pix.
Very strange. Rather nasty.
It looks like salt water corrosion. So WD40 is probably a temporary fix especially if water is still able to enter.
Given that you are in Brit, it could be salt water from the road, but how did it get in?
Do you see stains , feel damp spots, need gumboots to drive etc?
How do the other connectors nearby look?
Look at the plug that goes from your door into the pillar, is it neatly seated?

Could the car have been in a flood at sometime?

EDIT: I assume that the light stays on.???????

Jboy · **Reply #29: January 02, 2019, 23:44:34**

Brake switch hasn't been replaced as a recall no. I'm actually outstanding a few recalls which I didn't know about.

No obvious wet spots or anything like that.

I do notice that I get quite a lot of condensation on the inside of my windshield, so much so I tend to wipe the inside almost every morning especially since the winter. nothing else inside seems wet that I have noticed though. ill check out your suggestion at the weekend when I get some time.