[tw2005]

Never ending work this wagon.

I believe I have Timing Chain noises? Motor seems more rattly than my hatch and there's a rythmic click or scrape noise, relative to engine speed.

I think it's in the chain area.

So, who here has had to do work o the timing chain?

Does not look like an easy job.

Any known component failures?

Just wondering if the whole ot needs replacing or is this likely a guide or tensioner issue?



Tips Please.

[Dazzler]

@cruiserfied @nzenigma

[cruiserfied]

Have had random accounts of chain chatter. Causes ranging from chain stretch, tensioner failure, cvvt gears.

Any chain work is a large undertaking. To get chain cover off the sump and valve cover need to be removed including injectors.

[tw2005]

Have had random accounts of chain chatter. Causes ranging from chain stretch, tensioner failure, cvvt gears.

Any chain work is a large undertaking. To get chain cover off the sump and valve cover need to be removed including injectors.

yeah it's the valve cover, injector  and I'm reading special tooling for the pump as well that I'm spooked by ATM.

Last timing chain I did was a carburettor 3K toyota in 1987

[cruiserfied]

You shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump.

[tw2005]

You shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump.

Do I need the special tool  mentioned in the manual?

Extract from Timing chain repair section.
 
13. Remove the mounting bolts of the high pressure pump(A) and the fuel hoses(B, C).
 
14. Install the SST(high pressure pump sprocket stopper, 09331-2A000)(A) to sprocket rotating it clockwise.
15. Remove the timing chain cover bolt(three bolts)(B).
16. Install the SST(high pressure pump sprocket remover, 09331-2A000)(A) to timing chain cover with three long bolts(B).
17. Fix the high pressure pump remover(A) and sprocket stopper(C) with two fixing bolts(D).
18. Rotate the bolt(E) clockwise till high pressure pump is pushed out.
19. Remove the SST(09331-2A000) after remove the high pressure pump

[cruiserfied]

The only reason you might have to remove the fuel pump is if you cant get the chain slack enough to get it off the sprocket.
I cant remember if thats the case though.

[tw2005]

The only reason you might have to remove the fuel pump is if you cant get the chain slack enough to get it off the sprocket.
I cant remember if thats the case though.

I would not expect this is a common repair either. I'm considering tackling this as entire replacement of all timing components including sprockets as there appears to be complete kits.

Otherwise I'll have to dismantle, assess , order parts and then replace.

I guess if it was just guides and tensioners that would be easier, I don't think I'm lucky enough to expect that.

Does make sense if you're going to the effort to access this area, do the lot.

[cruiserfied]

Its definately not something i would wanna do twice in quick succession. Pretty sure just getting the timing cover out of the engine bay is a major PITA.

[nzenigma]

Same thoughts here. YUK
It may eventually be easier if you  lift the motor & trans out.
does the manual advise in car or out?

[tw2005]

Same thoughts here. YUK
It may eventually be easier if you  lift the motor & trans out.
does the manual advise in car or out?

"Engine removal is not required for this procedure."

The engine mount however is removed and then supported

[cruiserfied]

Problem with supporting the engine is you need to remove sump so crank is lowest part. Need to be super careful supporting after sump is off.

[tw2005]

Problem with supporting the engine is you need to remove sump so crank is lowest part. Need to be super careful supporting after sump is off.

Good tip.

May have to jerry rig something like strong box section  across the top and straps. Did a whole transmisson swapout on a V6 Magna like that. Amazing what you can do with ratchet straps.

[nzenigma]

'borrow' a hydraulic engine hoist. You will fall in love with it after using all the other jerry systems.
While it isn't mentioned in the manual , remove ALL of the LH engine mount. The body recess under it gives you a lot more room to work...but still tight.

[tw2005]

'borrow' a hydraulic engine hoist. You will fall in love with it after using all the other jerry systems.
While it isn't mentioned in the manual , remove ALL of the LH engine mount. The body recess under it gives you a lot more room to work...but still tight.

I do have an Uncle in law if there is such a thing with an engine rebuild business however the friendship carries only so far but he has offered a hoist I just found out from she who loves it when I take her car off the road (again)

Just popped into REPCO, I love a good laugh. NASON timing kit, HYTK13, non stocked , order in. I was hoping they kept it and 30% off, anyway, $940 The kit has no gears.

Genuine from Korea including gears $425 + freight

Even Supercheap can order in at $500

Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280

[The Gonz]

Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280

How do you know it's branded if it's unknown?

[tw2005]

Or unknown branded kit from the UK $280

How do you know it's branded if it's unknown?

They state the Brand as CHA, I can't find it and it's unknown to me. Do you know it?

Why are we both awake

[nzenigma]

Mate, I cant track down the post where you said how many Kms this car has done. Sounds high. the other incidents 
 Given the chain and  other replacement costs . Why not swap the motor for a low ks one?

Re Repco: not surprised, they used to get 90% of my business. Then they became a variety store in an attempt to beat Supercheap. That was a failure, they are now my last port of call.

[tw2005]

Mate, I cant track down the post where you said how many Kms this car has done. Sounds high. the other incidents 
 Given the chain and  other replacement costs . Why not swap the motor for a low ks one?

Re Repco: not surprised, they used to get 90% of my business. Then they became a variety store in an attempt to beat Supercheap. That was a failure, they are now my last port of call.

175K, thought has crossed my mind. It runs ok, has plenty of go, nil oil consumption.

If I have to pay someone to do the chain, I'd think a complete motor would be viable. Kind of kills the cheap wagon idea.

Bit of an Enigma you could say.

maybe clock wound back or driven like a petrol and flogged a bit?

[nzenigma]

Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.

Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km  Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a  Barina  until  I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.

That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.

[tw2005]

Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.

Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km  Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a  Barina  until  I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.

That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.

Interesting comments. I'll let yuou know about the cluster as I have one coming with 42000k on it. I think the mileage will be whatever is on the ODO, there is an eeprom on the back and people are advertising correction services on these so I'd say it's onboard..
I am going to try swapping the eeproms over but I am suspicious there maybe some encryption or something that matches it up with another chip onboard so you can't do this.

If it's just guides and tesioners that'd reduce the cost and make the task simpler, only way to know though is to disassemble and check how far the tensioners are extended.

I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\

Looks like I'll be learning fasdt a fair bit about these oil burners. Rather just enjoy driving it though.

[nzenigma]

I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\

  Yet another !!!! Is the tensioner causing your noise?
If in doubt strip the belts so water pump , alternator , air compressor  AND the belts can't play noise games.
Does the harmonic balancer run true? If not, is it on tight, about 130 ft/lb.

[tw2005]

I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\

  Yet another !!!! Is the tensioner causing your noise?
If in doubt strip the belts so water pump , alternator , air compressor  AND the belts can't play noise games.
Does the harmonic balancer run true? If not, is it on tight, about 130 ft/lb.

originally it was so bad and violent I thought it was tensioner, already reported in other thread. Was seized alt over run pulley. Still has tremors, in comparison to my 195K and the old man's 120K CRDi both of which are dead smooth.

I'll get back on the other stuff but I think it's chain, I can hear scraping noises within the timing case like the chain travelling over the guides.

[tw2005]

Yep its enigmatic alright.
175,000Km is not high, in old terms bit over 100,000 miles. Nothing for a diesel.
Your description over the past month or so has given me the impression that it has had one hell of a hard life.

Maybe the first oil change was at 170,000km  Therefore you could simply have a dodgy chain tensioner or guides.
The clock wind back... maybe, that would probably require an ECU reset. Never had to do it on an i30, but normally changing the display wont change the Kms.
After a motor change, I had all sorts of trouble trying to start a  Barina  until  I realised that the gauges/display, body module and the ECU are an item. Swap one, swap all.

That aside, even if your car has done double the average Kms, it wont have much affect on that diesel.

Interesting comments. I'll let yuou know about the cluster as I have one coming with 42000k on it. I think the mileage will be whatever is on the ODO, there is an eeprom on the back and people are advertising correction services on these so I'd say it's onboard..
I am going to try swapping the eeproms over but I am suspicious there maybe some encryption or something that matches it up with another chip onboard so you can't do this.

If it's just guides and tesioners that'd reduce the cost and make the task simpler, only way to know though is to disassemble and check how far the tensioners are extended.

I think this is why the alt belt tensioner still has a wobble due to timing chain harmonics or slap.?\

Looks like I'll be learning fasdt a fair bit about these oil burners. Rather just enjoy driving it though.

mileage stays within the cluster, can confirm if you have no other means but know how to solder electronics then removal of the single EEPROM and swapping that to the new cluster circuit board takes the old clusters data with it.

Just proved it on a 42000K cluster replaced and swapped IC, now reads 176K

[nzenigma]

Thanks for that info. Why not stay at 42K...would be a reeeeeeeeeeealy unique car .

[tw2005]

Thanks for that info. Why not stay at 42K...would be a reeeeeeeeeeealy unique car .

I tried it. Still had chain rattle with 42k.always have the eeprom

[nzenigma]

As a matter of interest, what is your mileage?

[tw2005]

Ive got an fai timing chain kit including gears here ready to be fitted to my car. Havent got round to it though there is a slight noise.

The tool for the fuel pump pulls the gear off the pump so u can get the lower chain and sprockets off. Not enough slack in chain to lift off the teeth on gears. The same tool also works to keep the sprocket in place if you are changing the diesel fuel pump.

It is quite an involved job from everything ive seen... my list of parts kept growing.

Chain kit with sprockets
4x injector washers
Rocker valve cover gasket
2x tube of sealer for timing cover n sump
Oil and oil filter
Aux drive belt pulley
Fuel sprocket tool from sealey
Genuine hyundai flywheel locking tool
And probably more ive forgotten.

Can't wait to read and see images of your report. I doing a complete motor /Trans swapout at the moment.

Once I get the old unit out, I'm keen to strip it to get a look at what's going on. Apart from the noise the motor is absolutely fine.

So is that the same kits getting around on the UK Ebay with the gears included?

[tw2005]

As a matter of interest, what is your mileage?

Yeah, what he said. 

[tw2005]

The chain kit is

FAI Autoparts - TCK79

You can also get it without the gear sprockets TCK79WO

PS. The service manager at my local dealer said they have never done a chain on an i30. However, his mechanic who helped diagnose the injector issues I had, he said they had done a 'couple' since the model came out in UK.

Like anything I guess can come down to servicing, how it's driven and there'll always a chance  a small percentage of early failures