i30 Owners Club

I30 Purchase

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Rusty89f

  • 1st Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 2

    • au Australia
      Hunter valley
Hi everyone.

Looking to purchase my first I30. 2008 SX 2.0L petrol. 230,000km
Regularly serviced. Timing belt done at 100k and 200k. Country driving and one owner.

Im worried about the amount of kms. I only plan to drive this for a few years till i save up and buy a newer model. Your opinions and advice would be muchly appreciated

Thanks. Russ
  • I30 2008


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
Hi everyone.

Looking to purchase my first I30. 2008 SX 2.0L petrol. 230,000km
Regularly serviced. Timing belt done at 100k and 200k. Country driving and one owner.

Im worried about the amount of kms. I only plan to drive this for a few years till i save up and buy a newer model. Your opinions and advice would be muchly appreciated

Thanks. Russ
What sort of advice are you after? have you driven it? Is it manual or auto?

My background is with the diesels and one of those with those K's if highway and well serviced the motor would be good for another 200000k.

A highway car should have less wear than a city vehicle.

Here's my list of common items that may need attention with those K's. Keep in mnd all cars suffer wear and tear and at some point maintenace will be required if you like things right.

Rear shocks - I've had these get weak and result in the inner edge of the tyre being squared off like a 50c piece. Tyre will be noisey if this has happened.

Front arms - the bushes can fatigue, crack and separate from the arms

Sway bar bushes - can become hard and noisey or with extreme mileage  become oversized to the point the sway bar knocks.

Sway bar links can also wear and knock, I've yet to have that.

Strut mounts may start to knock - no issues yet for me

Steering bush - common failure they disintegrate and when they do will produce a clunk in the steering, noise will be inside. Part is replaceable and cheap enough. $300 job would be avg price to pay someone

If manual - clutch pedal bite point can go very low all the way to the floor. Sometimes clutch may not fully disengage due to lack of travel. It seems to be the consensus that a damper valve on the master cylinder goes weak and instead of all the pressure being delivered at the clutch, this valve absorbs too much pressure instead. Replacement or bypass of that valve sorts that out in those cases.

Obviously clutch could be worn.

For the Auto, Valve body can wear out. I have not experienced it but at least one of my vehicles has had that replaced before me.

I believe delayed gear engagements and 2-3 shift issues can be warning signs. Expensive item, $1000 at least for the part if you bypass the dealer + labour

Window mechanisms- power window mech the plastic clips the window is attached to,  snap.

There's DIY solutions and aftermarket clips available online, or entire  assembly can be replaced. It will happen at some point, age , heat etc all play a part.

Drivers would be first to go, used the most.

SLX models with the chrome internal handles, these can peel and also just snap.

Brakes- you'd check for any vibration on application or a pulsing action in the car as you slow to the lights. I've had front and rears warp from time to time. Nothing in the steering wheel felt but pulsing chassis would indicate rears.

Driveshafts- based on my diesels, I've had the inner boots let grease out and also had worn inner joints as a result. Causes vibration under load and acceleration generally felt through the floor / chassis usually above 70kph.

This may more diesel related with the extra torque that it has, petrols may be more resilient

Door locks can fail, I 've had a couple now either noisey, will not lock or unlock completely with the remote. I recently had one that the internal snib was not fully moving in either direction with remote, often all doors would be locked except that one.

That will probably scare you, but with those K's and years you have to expect everything has a limited in use life.

I have two 200000K + (auto) examples and a 390000+(manual) K vehicle,  Diesels

Specific petrol issues, hard for me to comment, maybe some crank sensors that fail on top of some of the general items I mention.

  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
 :welcome: Russell,

Don't worry, it is unlikely all or even any of the things Gerard has listed will go wrong, but like he says any 10+ year old car is a bit of a lottery.

The mileage is not necessarily a worry, it depends on how it was driven and maintained. An experienced driver should be able to get a feel for where it is at condition wise.

If it feels reasonably tight and smooth it will probably be worth considering. on the other hand, if it feels loose and rattles like a 10 year old Ford bag of bolt then I'd walk away.

The service and owner history should put it in the 1st category. It would still need to be going fairly cheap.
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline beerman

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 4,596

    • au Australia
I was going to say how much?
  • A woman drove me to drink and I didn't even have the decency to thank her..


Offline Rusty89f

  • 1st Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 2

    • au Australia
      Hunter valley
$4,700. Im no car enthusiast but it did feel pretty smooth.
  • I30 2008


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
$4,700. Im no car enthusiast but it did feel pretty smooth.

Do you have a friendly local mechanic who could just give it the once over for a minimal charge? Not sure it's worth an RAC check.

You could also check the functions of all the windows and door locks and some of the other easy to check items in Gerard's list, yourself, before handing over your money.

I would also look for any obvious poorly done body repairs because while rust isn't generally an issue in Australia in the i30 it can be with any car that hasn't been properly repaired.
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline eye30

  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • HOS BOSS
    • Posts: 27,352

    • england England
      Wirral

  • Wirral, UK. - 1.4 Petrol Active - Aqua Blue
Is price reasonable compared to others of that year?

Plus should anything need repairing do you have spare $$$?

Is it private or trade sale as with latter don't you get a short period warranty?

Have you thought about an inspection before buying then any issues will be identified.



  • 1.4 Petrol Active I'm no expert, so please correct me if


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
$4,700. Im no car enthusiast but it did feel pretty smooth.

Do you have a friendly local mechanic who could just give it the once over for a minimal charge? Not sure it's worth an RAC check.

You could also check the functions of all the windows and door locks and some of the other easy to check items in Gerard's list, yourself, before handing over your money.

I would also look for any obvious poorly done body repairs because while rust isn't generally an issue in Australia in the i30 it can be with any car that hasn't been properly repaired.
Do you think I was too negative  :scared:  :winker:

They're great cars, the info is to assist in focussing on areas of potential faults. Very easy to get caught up in the emotion and miss a few things. Door locks would be one

Got another one for you, switch gear. Check all power window and mirror switches work in all directions. Power window switches can stop working too.

I'd think $4000 or less but that's me, and of course how much rego?

Also being 2008 , it's likely got just the 2 airbags if SX.

:link: AustralianCar.Reviews: #1 for Reviews and Used Car Valuations

There were safety updates in Oct 2008 and Oct 2009 on, SX had side , curtain airbags made standard.

SLX may be in that price range too.

End of the day if you're happy , that's all that matters.  :goodjob2:
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
@tw2005 Hi Gerard, Not at all. Great post as usual. Just didn't want to scare our new member too much! LOL
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Doggie 1

  • V.I.P
  • *
  • Doggie Connoisseur
    • Posts: 31,103

    • au Australia
      Perth

  • 2019 PD2 Go Petrol, Manual. 30,000 kms.
if it feels loose and rattles like a 10 year old Ford bag of bolt then I'd walk away.


I'm so glad my Fords are all more than ten years old.  :lol:
  • Tertius the i30


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal