i30 Owners Club

1.6 CRDI tuning chip

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Offline cyberdolt

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I have ordered one of those chips which come from Germany. Various reports on this forum seem to give it the "thumbs up". It was also mentioned that users remove the chip when sending the car for service at the dealer. However, I was told that even if removed the dealer's scan tool can register a recorded set of changed parameters which are stored in a computer memory, even if the battery is disconnected. Does anyone know if this is true?
Many thanks, Geoff, downunder.


Offline eyecon

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Hi Geoff. Are you refering to the "chip" as a tuning box? If that's the case then no chance of detection. The box only changes the resistance in the injectors and has nothing to do with the computer, unless you have some other type of box that is connected to the computer. I have run my box (also from Germany) over 2 i30s and had them serviced at various stages by Hyundai and no erroneous codes detected. Hope this helps.


Offline cyberdolt

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Thanks for your reply eyecon. Sorry about the terminology, it is a small box, probably the same as yours. It came from CRD Tuning.de. Are you pleased with its performance?
Best regards, Geoff.


Offline eyecon

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Hey Geoff, yeah very pleased, and well worth the money spent (which isn't that much). I'll be going back on the dyno next week because I haven't done it on this current i30 that I have. I also wanted to measure some gains (if any) from some other bits and pieces thrown at it.


Offline agentr31

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the grille and headlights are good for about 20hp i reckon :P


Offline eyecon

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Offline agentr31

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Offline cyberdolt

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To report: The tuning box does work. The torque is extended and seems to make the car smoother to drive. However, and this appeared before the box, after 100 or 200kms soft highway driving the turbo is reluctant to kick in fully when required. It does improve when using about half throttle. After goosing it a few times full turbo returns. I' wondering if this is common or if it's the adaptive learning computer getting on the case?? I have read previous threads but they concern older models.


Offline eyecon

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I have read elsewhere on this forum that what you're describing could have something to do with slight lag time reported in the fly-by-wire throttle, which appears to occur in light throttle cruising situations. I've noticed this in mine too. could this explain your situation?


Offline cyberdolt

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Thanks, eyecon. No, I have no trouble with light throttle, although, on 2 occasions there was a momentary "stumble" in traffic. Such quirks do happen with modern electronics and it's not regular, so no bother. My problem is that the turbo is loath to full boost after soft pedal driving on the Hume Highway and seems to come on stronger with about half throttle.  After several attempts it does go to full boost. I was wondering if this has been experienced by others?


Offline eyecon

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Hmm, not sure about that one. Hopefully someone else can help.the only other thing I can think of is that the revs are too low to achieve full boost if you're cruising at 100kph in 5th gear.


Offline agentr31

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how do you know the turbo isnt coming on full boost? do you have a boost gauge?

sometimes i find mine wont boost past 13psi... other times it hits 16psi... i think it may be to do with intake air temp...

cold nights its 16psi all the time, warm days it wont go over 13psi... may just be my car tho!


Offline eyecon

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Shouldn't they be running at 19PSI on a good day? I wonder if water injection over the existing intercooler will solve the temp issue. *hard hat on whilst thinking hard*


Offline cyberdolt

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OK. I don't have a boost gauge but I will quite soon and now thinking digital vs annalog. Having spent near 40 years with turbos and dynos I am addicted to gauges. My revs are up when this happens and without a gauge it's hard to determine exactly what the turbo is doing. However, if the computer is not allowing enough fuel the turbo won't give proper boost anyway. The fact that the problem goes after several runs up and down the range, makes me think it has something to do with the adaptive learning within the computer. Perhaps it sets itself to your driving style faster than we think, 200 to 300kms maybe. Nevertheless, it's away like a jack rabbit in gears 1, 2 and 3 any time I ask. Another matter is when creeping around a corner or roundabout in, say, 2nd gear, the idle control will "drive" you at 1200 rpm and not drop back to idle speed. The idle is effected by road speed as it is normal when stopped. A friend says it's normal. I still love the car.


Offline Lorian

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Another matter is when creeping around a corner or roundabout in, say, 2nd gear, the idle control will "drive" you at 1200 rpm and not drop back to idle speed. The idle is effected by road speed as it is normal when stopped. A friend says it's normal. I still love the car.

It's normal for cars with U series engines, they seem to have made it a little better in the U2. It still drives you along but rarely goes much above 1000 revs unless you really try to stall it (IE brake at the same time).


Offline eyecon

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I'm leaning towards the adaptive learning theory cyberdolt. I believe the computer is capable of that.


Offline cyberdolt

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Thank you Lorian and eyecom. I suppose I'm just too much of a perfectionist. Anything mechanical that doesn't work precisely as it should niggles me. This forum could use a really switched on service tech. Hyundai probably has a fix for the matters which we raise.


Offline Dazzler

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This forum could use a really switched on service tech. Hyundai probably has a fix for the matters which we raise.

We did have an ex Hyundai Service Manager who was active on here for quite a while (MRHi30) but he would be a bit out of touch now and has had a few other things on his plate of late (which have kept him away from us)  :'(
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline eyecon

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It has also gone beyond the scope of this topic posting. Perhaps this is more suited in the 'problems/issues-Diesel' section.


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