i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Warner on February 05, 2017, 03:03:41
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I bought a new i30 cdri hatch in 2010 with the hope of it lasting for a long time, possibly for the rest of my driving life. I actually chose it as it was a "car of the year". However, it hasn't been exactly trouble free. At about my wife and I noticed a "moaning" sound on take off and reported it. At 43000 the dealer agreed and replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing and machined the flywheel under warranty. Their description of the problem was "found throw out bearing and pressure plate responsible for the noise(were mateing surfaces meet)".
Fast forward to June 2016 (6 months and 1800 klm. out of warranty) We became aware of a vibration between 1800 and 2000 rpm under load. It was there at other times but not so noticeable.
The dealer diagnosed it as needing a new front right engine mount. Had this work done but almost immediately the vibration started again. Ultimately had all 4 mounts replaced. Vibration still present.
All Hyundai would say was take it to a dealer, so we took it to a different dealer who is equally baffled, but they did say that the clutch is going again (no travel in pedal and the moan is coming back)
Someone told me about this site, and that my problem was not unique.
I find it very difficult to believe that Hyundai customer service is unaware of this site and therefore that Hyundai engineering is unaware of the problem. which leads me to believe that either they cannot fix it or the fix is horrendously expensive.
However Australian Consumer Law states that " the goods (must be) of acceptable quality" ,which means that if something fails well within what may be considered to be its reasonably accepted life, a claim may be successful even though the warranty has expired.
I will patiently wait to see how this plays out.
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Welcome Warner.
I understand your disappointment and frustration.
Firstly, I have to say it isn't a common problem on the i30. Hyundai uses reliable, quality components from companies such as Bosch (like many other manufacturers do) Not sure off the top of my head who who makes their clutches though.
The problem with clutch issues is that they can be subject to user abuse (not saying that is the case in your instance) This means that they are considered a wear and tear item with a limited warranty.
What other problems have you had?
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Clutch kit is made by Valeo and this is also unique aftermarket and OEM part manufacturer that you can get. Well my crdi is vibration free from begining. Clutch was also changed @140000KM
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I bought a new i30 cdri hatch in 2010 with the hope of it lasting for a long time, possibly for the rest of my driving life. I actually chose it as it was a "car of the year". However, it hasn't been exactly trouble free. At about my wife and I noticed a "moaning" sound on take off and reported it. At 43000 the dealer agreed and replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing and machined the flywheel under warranty. Their description of the problem was "found throw out bearing and pressure plate responsible for the noise(were mateing surfaces meet)".
Fast forward to June 2016 (6 months and 1800 klm. out of warranty) We became aware of a vibration between 1800 and 2000 rpm under load. It was there at other times but not so noticeable.
The dealer diagnosed it as needing a new front right engine mount. Had this work done but almost immediately the vibration started again. Ultimately had all 4 mounts replaced. Vibration still present.
All Hyundai would say was take it to a dealer, so we took it to a different dealer who is equally baffled, but they did say that the clutch is going again (no travel in pedal and the moan is coming back)
Someone told me about this site, and that my problem was not unique.
I find it very difficult to believe that Hyundai customer service is unaware of this site and therefore that Hyundai engineering is unaware of the problem. which leads me to believe that either they cannot fix it or the fix is horrendously expensive.
However Australian Consumer Law states that " the goods (must be) of acceptable quality" ,which means that if something fails well within what may be considered to be its reasonably accepted life, a claim may be successful even though the warranty has expired.
I will patiently wait to see how this plays out.
I shall try again, thanks to copy and paste from my thread.
So what mileage are we talking now? You have me very confused at "1800Klm out of warranty" given they have a 5yr unlimited K except commercial use?
The main weight bearing mounts are the drivers side and gear box. The front and rears are roll stoppers , more for torsional control being FWD.
A full set of mounts replaced and no cure, I trust it was the dealer that said it would fix? would be interesting case to get that money back since no fix.
Can you describe the vibration better?
Under acceleration? Coasting? all gears? low gears? High gears? around town? Highway speeds? Up hills?
I have auto so the vibrations I've had have been collapsed drivers side mount which is easy to tell and drivers Drive shaft due to grease escaping from the inner joint boot and the inner joint probably failing due to lack of lube or overheating and starting to bind.
Never driven the manual. Both my diesels are not exactly vibration free under acceleration when the RPMs get up but nothing crazy either. And cruising on the highway I could fall asleep it so smooth.
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Hey tw2005, you ask valid questions. Pity Warner has not had time to reply.
As you know, I have driven plenty of, and love, the manual CRDi FDs.
The clutch has never been an issue, even at high kms.
Warner writes: "Someone told me about this site, and that my problem was not unique.." :confused: Not sure if he refers to vibration or clutch failure, but either way the 'someone's' advice is not based upon any great body of evidence.
" needing a new front right engine mount. Had this work done but almost immediately the vibration started again"
The mount was replaced and the vibration stopped; but came back later. Therefore, we can rule out a drive train fault and conclude that the clutch and the vibration are most likely to be separate matters.
"At 43000 the dealer agreed and replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing and machined the flywheel under warranty. Their description of the problem was "found throw out bearing and pressure plate responsible for the noise (were (sic) mateing (sic) surfaces meet)"."
In simple terms, the dealer describes a noisy throw out bearing. At 43000km, the clutch driven and pressure plates, and flywheel should be almost as new. Did he really change and machine them? :disapp: :head_knock:
@Warner has not told us what the mileage was, at June 2016. Assuming 20,000km travelled per year, the vehicle would be at 110,000km. Proper driving technique, without extraordinary towing, would not wear out a clutch in that time frame.
If we assume that the clutch was renewed at 43k, the present clutch "with no pedal travel" has only done 67k. Therefore , Hyundai must assume it has been abused.
"I will patiently wait to see how this plays out." Me too Warner. Cheers :)
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I have read so many threads on this topic that this must now be a known problem with CRDI manual i30s.
All people comment moaning/vibration more evident under harder acceleration between 1700-2000 rpm or so and more noticeable in higher gears.
I believe it is a clutch/flywheel issue as people who have had both replaced at the same time often report resolution.
I have the issue but it's minor and i'm living with it. Hyundai changed my flywheel but refused to do anything more under warranty. Obviously the explosion in this being mentioned in the last year or two suggests manufacturing faults but good luck on getting Hyundai to the party on what they consider a wear item.
Many other people have commented:
:link: 2010 i30 Diesel Transmission Vibration (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=35432.0)
:link: 2015 1.6 crdi 136hp, vibration noise under hard acceleration (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=42636.0)
:link: vibration (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=42265.0)
:link: Clutch problem (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=41094.0)
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Sorry about not replying. I joined to get helpful comment, but being an old fart I didn't quite know how to locate responses. (I know, I know but like I said....) Anyhow, firstly to correct a typo. We first noticed the "moan" at about 30,000 km.
When I said 6 months and 1800 km out of warranty, I meant that I had owned the car for 5yr and 6 mth, and that I thought the warranty was for 100,000 km, and I had done 101,800 km. However, as was pointed out to me the warranty was 5 years unlimited km, so my comment makes no sense. Sorry.
Now I wouldn't make a mechanic's grease rag, knowing basically SFA about cars, but I have been driving cars, usually manuals for 60 years, and I have never had to have a clutch replaced in any car I bought new or near new, and I would have thought that "riding the clutch" was just about the only way a driver could abuse a clutch. As an old fart, I do try not to hold other drivers up at lights, so I do get away smartly, but surely, if a clutch can't handle the power/torque of an engine, then it's the wrong clutch for the job.
The "moan" and the vibration are to me two different matters, even though they may point to the same problem. The comments about the work done and the reason at 43,000km were taken from the dealer's invoice, complete with misspelling. The moan went away after the job and is only now showing up again, while the vibration only started after 100,000km.
The vibration can be felt and heard when the engine is going through 1800/2000 rpm, but only under some circumstances. I think it is there in all gears but that in 1st and 2nd we go through the problem range too quickly for it to be felt/heard. It is definitely there in 3rd, 4th and 5th, but the car must be under load at the time. This is often when travelling in heavy traffic when the possibility of accelerating is limited by the cars in front.
The second dealer I took it to commented in his report that the problem was between 1600 and 2000 in higher gears. He also said that when he disconnected the MAF sensor and drove the car the vibration stopped. Verbally he commented that they thought the problem was a combination of clutch problems and fuel injection problems. I have no idea if that makes sense.
The original dealer diagnosed RH front engine mount, and the workshop that did the work, as well as the second dealer both agreed they would have said "engine mounts", and the decision to change them was mine as I thought it could do no harm and was worth a try.
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Hi Warner,
Thankyou for your detailed reply. I am a fellow old fart, I started driving cars when automatic transmissions were something that wealthy lazy Americans had in their Autos. Not us! Your driving ability ( or grammar :)) was not being questioned, I apologise if you took the comments personally. :)
It seems that I was fairly close with 110,000km, so the maths and the comments about the curious short life of your clutch still stand. Could the low pedal be a hydraulic problem? Is the clutch fluid level ok?
This site has a wealth of comment and advice available to i30 owners, I know Dazz would agree with me that as far as possible we should strive to keep the information accurate.
@constipated has added his own comment plus 4 more threads. If I can manage a few free hours I would like to go through them to look for commonality or anomaly.
Some past experience, has me thinking that this could be a harmonic problem. In short, if the right frequency is reached, some part of the car (the exhaust especially), can vibrate in sympathy.
Thanks for your input, hopefully we can assist....soon :)
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Hi Warner,
Im still working on the posts regarding this vibration. To get consensus is a bit challenging. But that I enjoy!
We initially thought that you have two separate problems. Maybe or....?
I would be grateful if you could fill me in on the current 'moaning' take-off.
I understand that you do not have much travel in your clutch pedal. Have you looked for brake fluid leaks ?
Did this lack of travel occur gradually or suddenly?
When you initially press the clutch pedal, do you hear noise or feel vibration etc?
Is the moaning only when you engage the clutch to drive away?
Thanks G.
to @Warner
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Is the moaning only when you engage the clutch to drive away?
If you pull over and let the wife out does the moaning stop :whistler: :D
Sorry for the off topic :)
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Is the moaning only when you engage the clutch to drive away?
If you pull over and let the wife out does the moaning stop :whistler: :D
Sorry for the off topic :)
What a terrible thing to say Criag :disapp:....... :D
I have a feeling that poor Warner has a collapsed clutch pressure plate. That could account for both low pedal and vib.
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Diesel Vibration—inconclusive! :disapp:
With the disadvantage of having a computer between me and the vehicles, this is my best shot.
I have used reports from @Warner @Chin Ho @constipated @Seoul-mate @elantraelite @h20melon @vlad0609 @supaFlaj @Asterix @neilfisher @MarkandNat @Hman @Dazzler @nzenigma (re 3 vehicles) and advice given by @cruiserfied
First, a few observations:
The reported vibration only occurs in CRDi manual cars. Not in CRDi auto or petrol vehicles.
The diesel vehicle has a much heavier flywheel compared to the petrol motor. Both have different clutches.
The heavy flywheel is used, among other things, to smooth the roughness of the compression stroke in a diesel motor.
The auto transmission changes from low to high range as required; therefore loading the motor in a high gear at low revs is avoided.
While the car is being driven in any gear, the flywheel and clutch plate are locked together by the downward force of the clutch pressure plate. The thrust bearing is retracted and does not make contact with the clutch. Advice such as ‘the new clutch will be bedding in’ is nonsense. ( see cruiserfied; MarkandNat)
Out of the 14 members selected, thanks to constipated’s links above, most report ‘a vibration’ at 1600-2000 rpm under load.
Having personally had 3 diesel manuals, I have added three entries below.
3 reported no vibration.
5 noticed minor vibration, adjusted driving technique, eg higher revs in lower gear to avoid load.
3 had clutch changed and vibration solved.
2 a new clutch actually caused vibration
1 flywheel changed, vibration not fixed
1 clutch changed, vibration not fixed.
Warner’s problem is not included as it remains in the lap of his dealer or hopefully an independent mechanic who will be cheaper and should use quality components.
Based upon the above results, one could not assume that his vibration is clutch related.
However, he has thrust bearing noise, a low clutch pedal, and a relatively low mileage clutch. My guess is that the previous dealer installed an el cheapo clutch at 40,000km and that pressure plate has again collapsed.
Re: the 2 new clutches that caused vibration.
Cruiserfied mentioned that improper fitting of drive shafts or lack of care of wheel bearings while in the workshop, can introduce vibration into a repaired vehicle.
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I spent 30 minutes writing a message and it seems to have become lost in the "ether". This is only a test to see how long it takes to get posted. If it is lost, I will do it again tonight.
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Great wrap-up there, NZ :victory:
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I spent 30 minutes writing a message and it seems to have become lost in the "ether". This is only a test to see how long it takes to get posted. If it is lost, I will do it again tonight.
With longer messages you do run the risk something will time out. There are a couple of options...
Write longer posts in word (or a similar program) and then copy and paste them into a thread OR
Install a plugin such as Lazareth (I think it is called) which allows you to recover a lost post.
@nzenigma Thanks heaps for your efforts at a diagnosis! I don't care what your wife says about you, I reckon you are OK! :snigger:
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Thanks Gonz and Dazz, :)
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It's Lazarus, Dazz :D
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It's Lazarus, Dazz :D
Thanks Phil, close, but no cigar... :D
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Firstly, Thanks Guys for all the time and thought put into this matter. If and when Hyundai get back to me, and if and when I get the problem fixed I’ll let you all know.
Secondly, I’m going to find out about Lazarus. I hate having to reword a post. It’s never as good the second time. (I do a bit in Trip Advisor as Warner D and I’ve lost them a couple of times too)
As a result you will all miss out on my brilliant rejoinder to Craig B full of wit and humour. On with the real stuff.
The moaning is a constant sound although very short. It is not a broken sound like a vibration. It only happens on take-off and then not every time but it may occur more if I’m a bit hesitant lifting my foot from the clutch. I do not notice any noise associated with depressing the clutch pedal. All fluid levels are OK, and I recently had the gearbox oil changed. I did not notice the short pedal travel until the second dealer pointed it out to me. I have always pushed my foot to the floor and have taken it off the pedal in a swift but controlled manner, which brings me to another point.
I do not consider myself a faultless driver, and when I mentioned my gear change technique, I was inviting comment about it. I may be contributing to the problem, but I don’t see how. I don’t ride the clutch and I don’t “drop the clutch”, but I do try to get away from the lights in a manner that doesn’t hold other drivers up. Surely a clutch assembly should be able to take that. Shouldn’t it?
Something I haven’t previously mentioned because it slipped my mind. The gearbox works well from start and it engages the gears quickly and accurately, but after a day of city driving it sometimes gets a bit hard to get the gear lever to go into the gate, if that’s what I mean. It gets sort of springy and needs a bit more force.
Once again thank you all for your assistance. No response from Hyundai yet but I’ll chase them up on Monday.
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Glad you appreciate the assistance (not everyone does) :cool:
Wow, that is unusual that the gearchange sometimes gets worse when warm! I've owned at least 25 manual cars and driven many others, but can't recall that ever happening. Usually they improve when warm oil starts to circulate (as I'm sure you are aware).
Interesting that you don't get any extra noise when depressing the clutch. Sort of rules out a thrust or throwout bearing as I think they are sometimes called. I have had noisy bearings with some of my earlier (older) cars.
Anyway, I am no technician so I'll leave it with the experts.
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I'm one who has had 2 clutches changed. One before 40,000km and the other around 80,000kms due to vibration. Unfortunately for me, they ademately refused the second clutch as a warranty problem blaming the presure plate alone what caused the vibration.
With the second clutch, I had a noise like a quick moan on some take offs. HY dealer claimed on inspection it was from a dry spline on the gearbox input shaft where the clutch pressure plate sits on. HY claimed the grease that was put in there had somehow washed away. I claimed to them that it it sounds like it was shonky workmanship, but because the clutch was now out of warranty, they refused that.
So really, if the vibration is it doing any damage to the rest of the engine, and I reckon the dry shaft probably wouldn't wear that much, then in hindsight I wouldn't have had the work done unless it was guaranteed under warranty.
Now my car is out of warranty, the I'll be doing all the work myself.
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I'm one who has had 2 clutches changed. One before 40,000km and the other around 80,000kms due to vibration. Unfortunately for me, they ademately refused the second clutch as a warranty problem blaming the presure plate alone what caused the vibration....
Now my car is out of warranty, the I'll be doing all the work myself.
Hi mate, Thanks for coming back to this topic. :) I think you should have been doing the work from the start.
When doing my research notes, your story stood out:
"h20melon [he had appalling experience with City Motors, Wollongong, ] So far so good. No vibrations… they tell me that it was the seal from the gearbox into the clutch housing that had failed. They had to replace seals, main shaft in gearbox, clutch, pressure plate, clutch bearing, and machine flywheel. Definitely did something to clutch as now the peddle has different feel."
Did they really do all that or did they 'pad' the invoice? The whole job is warranty work.
To quibble about 'is it clutch plate or pressure plate' is nonsense. The cost of a good Exedy kit (or similar) is $300, it includes pressure and driven plate and thrust bearing. The bulk of the repair expense is the labour cost.
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The gearbox works well from start and it engages the gears quickly and accurately, but after a day of city driving it sometimes gets a bit hard to get the gear lever to go into the gate, if that’s what I mean. It gets sort of springy and needs a bit more force.
Once again thank you all for your assistance. No response from Hyundai yet but I’ll chase them up on Monday.
Good to get your update Warner, thanks for re-invigorating this topic.
Given what you have said, I'm even more inclined to think that you have a dodgy pressure plate. Also, if the pressure plate is not fully releasing the clutch driven plate, when you change gear, you can get the described resistance in the gear-box. You may simulate this, when the drive train is cool, by reducing the clutch pedal range. eg clutch is still partially engaged.
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Or do what I did in the 80s and buy yourself a Datsun 180B as a second car, then discover the asswipe sold it to you with a massive leak* in the hydraulic clutch so that you learn to 'sync' gears with no clutch all the way home. :lol:
*Ended up costing a mere $16 for a service of new seals
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Or do what I did in the 80s and buy yourself a Datsun 180B as a second car, . :lol:
You decadent swine! All I could afford was a Corolla as a first car. :mrgreen:
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Or do what I did in the 80s and buy yourself a Datsun 180B as a second car, then discover the asswipe sold it to you with a massive leak* in the hydraulic clutch so that you learn to 'sync' gears with no clutch all the way home. :lol:
*Ended up costing a mere $16 for a service of new seals
You're holding on too tight, and lost the edge.
Try Mechanics 101, adjusting said 180B clutch free travel at the push rod and having the internals fail and end up with no pedal pressure then explain to your dad at 17 how you just F**ked mum's car up!
Rust was a feature.
How did we arrive at 180B ?
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Or do what I did in the 80s and buy yourself a Datsun 180B as a second car, . :lol:
You decadent swine! All I could afford was a Corolla as a first car. :mrgreen:
Me too, KE20 2 door , 12" rims and a lot of rust
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I have found some of the Hyundai dealers in Brisbane to be less than average. Hence I service my vehicles elsewhere. If you want to compare notes then give me a PM.
Secondly I think you can rule out the using dodgy parts, because with warranty work they need to get permission from Hyundai to do the work, as such Hyundai provides the parts (or I guess a rebate if they are in stock) and authorisation to do the work.
You can't however rule out a half arsed job.
My 2 FDs have been autos and I have found them to be generally good. I only had a couple of issues in the CW I sold with 136,000k on it. The Hatch is about to cross 90k, it has had a couple of issues but continues to perform. None have had engine mounts done. However the different manners of driving (mine was a Bne/GC commuter my wife uses hers around town) shows that different driving environments have different effects on vehicles (I sold mine with the original brake pads, the good wife had her fronts replaced at 75k. I had one wheel alignment in 136k the good wife has had 2 by 90 as a couple of examples). So trying to gage the life of components with km or time is problematic, for example a clutch will last far less if it is going in and out of Brisbane on the M1 in peak hour than if it is doing long highway runs.
All I can say is that you have the right people on here doing the thinking for you. Generally they are spot on.
Another option you have is to google for a clutch specalist near you and get them to have a look. My thinking is generally the dealer mechanics are like a GP they do everything fairly well but the ability to do the out of the ordinary problems drops off (and so does their interest, they could be doing easy profitable scheduled servicing). A clutch specalist (like a medical specalist) works only in one area, and has a network of people who do the same thing. I would find one with a good rating and drop in and see what they say. As a plus they will probably be cheaper than Hyundai.
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If you want to compare notes then give me a PM.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo29/RJAAR/Turncoat_zpsxkztlpyx.jpeg) (http://s358.photobucket.com/user/RJAAR/media/Turncoat_zpsxkztlpyx.jpeg.html)
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If you want to compare notes then give me a PM.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo29/RJAAR/Turncoat_zpsxkztlpyx.jpeg) (http://s358.photobucket.com/user/RJAAR/media/Turncoat_zpsxkztlpyx.jpeg.html)
:rofl:
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@nzenigma yes I could have been doing it all from the beginning but as it was my first new car didn't really know what to expect from HY. They probably padded the invoice out to most likely keep me happy. But didn't care the second time. The chance of oil getting from the gearbox to the clutch plate is very rare and there was no evidence under the car of oil.
The next car I get will be an auto that way there is no grey area of what is not under warranty anywhere in the engine and gearbox/drivetrain.
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thanks for the reply mate. Your issues with your dealer are not unique. But other dealers do consider their reputation and act ethically. Good driving, Cheers G.
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Hi, nzenigma, the Gonz, h20melon, beerman and anybody else interested. It’s been a while but these things take time.
The vibration in the transmission? at 1800/2000rpm … the continuing story. The story so far.
Car to Westpoint Autos. Misdiagnosis of “right front engine mount needs replacement”. Work done by outside mechanic . No change so3 other engine mounts changed progressively . The problem remained. Cost $788.
Mechanic saw i30 owner’s club website and problem discussion.
I emailed Hyundai Customer Care and was told to take car to Hyundai dealer. I said I had already done that, and that they must be aware of the problem and the solution. Told to take the car to Hyundai dealer.
Recommended to try Hyundai Gympie. After much diagnostic effort, no real diagnosis, just a bill for $937.
Emailed Hyundai Customer Care, saying I wanted them to fix car. Started phoning them. Officer in charge of my case never available, never phoned back.
Contacted Qld Regional Manager (QRM). He said to take car to Westpoint for diagnosis at no expense to me, and that Westpoint could get help from Hyundai Qld technicians. QRM said that there were only 3 possibilities:-
• Fault was responsibility of Hyundai
• Fault was not the responsibility of Hyundai
• There was nothing wrong with the car
After the inspection but before I picked the car up he rang and said that investigations revealed that there was nothing wrong with car, but that he would help me buy another Hyundai until 31/12/2017. My calculation of max value of help $1500.
Picked up car. Report said that further investigation could not be done until clutch was replaced. It was reported to me that the Hyundai technicians know of the problem and that their comment was that if the clutch was replaced the problem “went away”. Very reassuring!
Clutch replaced by outside mechanic: $1000+. Some improvement noticed. The vibration seems to have diminished to a quiet roar until we induced it at the same revs in 4th gear, where it is still obvious but to a lesser extent. My neighbour, who deals in cars, thought it sounded/felt like an exhaust bracket problem, so I’m taking it in to have this checked out.
I have sent a complaint to Fair Trading Queensland, based on the problem not being unique, and that I followed their instructions to take car to a dealer. The least I want is a refund of $937, unproductively spent on their instructions. Waiting time for response..up to 10 days. We’ll see.
The clutch plate, which I got back from the mechanic, has smaller springs inside 2 opposite main springs, and the other 2 contain hollow metal cylinders, both of which show signs of a surface spiral. They are free to rattle round inside the main spring, and seem to serve no purpose other than to maybe counter balance the 2 inner springs. I have attached 2 photos. Does anybody know what they are there for?
Ever onward, but one thing; I will never buy a Hyundai manual or a diesel again.
P.S. Sorry about the photos. Our techknowledge (like that?) only lets us post photos in JPG. Hopefully someone can work from my description. W.
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Hi Warner,
Thanks for the update. Pretty impressive to document that frustrating and expensive tale of woe without using any expletives!
You have certainly made all the right noises and given it a red hot go! So disappointing that you are still battling with the issue. :crazy1:
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Hi, nzenigma, the Gonz, h20melon, beerman and anybody else interested. It’s been a while but these things take time.
The vibration in the transmission? at 1800/2000rpm … the continuing story. The story so far.
Car to Westpoint Autos. Misdiagnosis of “right front engine mount needs replacement”. Work done by outside mechanic . No change so3 other engine mounts changed progressively . The problem remained. Cost $788.
Mechanic saw i30 owner’s club website and problem discussion.
I emailed Hyundai Customer Care and was told to take car to Hyundai dealer. I said I had already done that, and that they must be aware of the problem and the solution. Told to take the car to Hyundai dealer.
Recommended to try Hyundai Gympie. After much diagnostic effort, no real diagnosis, just a bill for $937.
Emailed Hyundai Customer Care, saying I wanted them to fix car. Started phoning them. Officer in charge of my case never available, never phoned back.
Contacted Qld Regional Manager (QRM). He said to take car to Westpoint for diagnosis at no expense to me, and that Westpoint could get help from Hyundai Qld technicians. QRM said that there were only 3 possibilities:-
• Fault was responsibility of Hyundai
• Fault was not the responsibility of Hyundai
• There was nothing wrong with the car
After the inspection but before I picked the car up he rang and said that investigations revealed that there was nothing wrong with car, but that he would help me buy another Hyundai until 31/12/2017. My calculation of max value of help $1500.
Picked up car. Report said that further investigation could not be done until clutch was replaced. It was reported to me that the Hyundai technicians know of the problem and that their comment was that if the clutch was replaced the problem “went away”. Very reassuring!
Clutch replaced by outside mechanic: $1000+. Some improvement noticed. The vibration seems to have diminished to a quiet roar until we induced it at the same revs in 4th gear, where it is still obvious but to a lesser extent. My neighbour, who deals in cars, thought it sounded/felt like an exhaust bracket problem, so I’m taking it in to have this checked out.
I have sent a complaint to Fair Trading Queensland, based on the problem not being unique, and that I followed their instructions to take car to a dealer. The least I want is a refund of $937, unproductively spent on their instructions. Waiting time for response..up to 10 days. We’ll see.
The clutch plate, which I got back from the mechanic, has smaller springs inside 2 opposite main springs, and the other 2 contain hollow metal cylinders, both of which show signs of a surface spiral. They are free to rattle round inside the main spring, and seem to serve no purpose other than to maybe counter balance the 2 inner springs. I have attached 2 photos. Does anybody know what they are there for?
Ever onward, but one thing; I will never buy a Hyundai manual or a diesel again.
P.S. Sorry about the photos. Our techknowledge (like that?) only lets us post photos in JPG. Hopefully someone can work from my description. W.
use imgur to upload , then copy and paste BB code forums, :weneedpics:
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Hey Warner,
I give you top marks for persistence, and thanks for the detailed update. :goodjob2:
A couple of anomalies jumped out.
QRM said that there were only 3 possibilities:-
• Fault was responsibility of Hyundai
• Fault was not the responsibility of Hyundai
• There was nothing wrong with the car
This QRM sounds like a top public servant. He rats on about the bloody obvious, but then slips up by indicating where he wants the issue to end...'Nothing Wrong', as advised.
However, Report said that further investigation could not be done until clutch was replaced. It was reported to me that the Hyundai technicians know of the problem and that their comment was that if the clutch was replaced the problem “went away”.
The technician(s) are clearly contradicting their QRM.
@Warner , I am assuming that the clutch that was replaced was not slipping. A written report from the mechanic to that effect would strengthen your Fair Trading complaint. As discussed previously, with clutch pedal disengaged, the clutch driven plate is locked tight to the flywheel by the clutch pressure plate. Any vibration it generates (due imbalance) would be a manufacturing defect.
The spring set up you describe is common to most clutch plates. As you will note, it is quite a light component. The flywheel that it engages is about 15kg. (guess)
Your dealer mate may be noting something of relevance. While I doubt exhaust brackets ( the exhaust hangs from rubber rings) he may be listening to /or feeling some resonance. This was nagging me while I was doing the earlier research.. Similar to a musical instrument, when a body part , exhaust or similar is vibrated at the correct frequency, it can suddenly emit a sound.
Many years ago, I was involved in the export of some newly manufactured equipment. We used an audio frequency generator to test for component oscillation caused by frequencies from below to beyond the human hearing range. Cabinet panels could emit extremely loud noises. No one unit was the same.