[nvo2002]

I have a 2011 crdi i30 auto diesel.Its just out of warranty and was going to change the engine oil and was looking what specs had to be met.I took a look at previous  dealer service receipts and noticed that they had been putting in Castrol 5w30 acea C3.Problem is it clearly states near the oil filler cap to use acea b4 as it doesn't have a diesel particulate filter.Question I have, would it have harmed the engine in any way as it seems to have alot of valve etc noise  when I remove the oil filler cap whilst the engine is running?

Regards Andrew

[tw2005]

I have a 2011 crdi i30 auto diesel.Its just out of warranty and was going to change the engine oil and was looking what specs had to be met.I took a look at previous  dealer service receipts and noticed that they had been putting in Castrol 5w30 acea C3.Problem is it clearly states near the oil filler cap to use acea b4 as it doesn't have a diesel particulate filter.Question I have, would it have harmed the engine in any way as it seems to have alot of valve etc noise  when I remove the oil filler cap whilst the engine is running?

Regards Andrew

Can't answer the  C3 question but I use A3/B4 spec and I also use 10W40 in my 200000k hatch, the wagon I've used Edge A3/B4 5W30 for the first time. Seems noisier than the hatch and it's a 45000k motor.

You may be looking for something that's not there. It's a diesel and they clatter. I've popped the cap off mine whilst running and I know what you mean but likely it's normal running noise.

For me if I look at the manual realistically I can us 15W oil given our ambients

[diesel1984]

I use 5w40 Shell helix ultra.
Best a3/b4 oil that you can buy.

Motul 5w40 x-cess
Selenia wr 5w40

[nvo2002]

Thanks!
I think next time I might use 5w40 as it seems to cope better with higher ambient temperatures than the 5w30. Since it's out of warranty I have plugged the pcv as upon inspection was pumping alot oil sludge from the crankcase back into the air inlet stream .It's now vented out to atmosphere YES !!!!! I know that damaging to the environment but I want to get the most longevity out if my car.

Regards Andrew

[eye30]

What options does it give in the handbook?

[cruiserfied]

5w/40 A3/B4 is what your looking for.
The C3 won't hurt the engine, it is a low ash oil designed for engines with DPF's which your I30 doesn't have.


On the other hand If a B4 oil was used in an engine with a DPF it would be bad.

[nvo2002]

Thanks for the information

[nvo2002]

It gives a number of options but 5w30 seems to go well below 0 degrees and up to near the 40 degrees whereas the 5w40 goes past 40 degrees which it does get  to sometimes.

[constipated]

I thought I'd add to this thread instead of starting a new one.

Had my FD i30 serviced by an independent mechanic for the first time as out of warranty.

90,000km service which would have been a fixed price $905 ended up costing only $350 after I provided my oil plus genuine Hyundai oil, fuel and air filters (about $130). So all up a good saving.

Anyway, he did make a comment that he thought it blew more black smoke after giving it a bit of throttle than he was used to and made a recommendation to use a thicker oil than I had provided (Full synthetic Castrol Edge 5W-30). He recommended I go up to 5W-40 next time around.

I've not noticed much oil consumption at all. The dipstick was still at around the full mark a few weeks before this service. I'm still getting it serviced as per the standard recommendations 1 year/15,000 km.

I know my car gets a bit smoky with any acceleration above 3000rpm but I rarely rev it to that degree and with normal driving I don't notice anything in the rear view mirror. I thought it was a typical diesel car.

It got me thinking can a smoky diesel car be due to the oil being too thin? I know in older petrol cars a thicker oil is meant to prevent oil leaks and consumption. Is it the same for a diesel engine?

[xiziz]

Black smoke comes out of a cold diesel that is strained(dpf seems to remove the smoke though). Usually seen on trucks making a cold start up a hill.

Cause is high fuel/air mix, causing incomplete combustion. The black smoke is large unburned diesel particles. Could be faulty injectors/clogged air filter/ducts/egr, bad turbo. But probably just a cold engine and warm air(less dense).

I have not heard of oil viscosity affecting smoke. Modern engines are sealed enough to use synthetic oil, old cars relied on mineral oil to seal up. Putting a thick mineral oil in would probably seal up small leaks... And cause all sorts of "fun" in the modern engine.

And on one of your earlier questions, 5w30 starts fine at -20c with a cold engine. My engine drinks no oil either.

[eXDee]

Bump!

I have nearly the same question, also a non-DPF crdi (MY09). So it recommends ACEA B4, but the mechanic I went to put in Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W-30. Previously i was running Havoline 5W-40 but 40 is probably better suited to australia than NZ, so i don't mind that changing.

But as far as i can tell from shell's product guide (pdf) they don't make a 5W-30 that is ACEA B4, only C3. I didn't see the bottle, so i can only assume C3 went in. At least this appears to be true synthetic stuff.

So there's definitely no issue with this? I notice a lot of people on the net are asking this question, and this post seems to even suggest that ACEA standard changes year by year. Other info indicates that C3 is very similar to B4 but is measured differently.

That post also comments that API is a better measure as it doesn't change, and never versions are backwards compatible. That seems to make sense to me.
I see the Hyundai Manual says to use API CH-4 which has this definition

Source: API Engine Oil Lubricant Specifications - oilspecifications.org

Diesel Engines
This service oils are suitable for high speed, four-stroke diesel engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards and are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. CH-4 oils are superior in performance to those meeting API CF-4 and API CG-4 and can effectively lubricate engines calling for those API Service Categories.

But that Helix Ultra is rated SN which has this definition:

Gasoline Engines
Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource Conservingmatches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control systemcompatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85.

Given that SN rating is not rated for diesels, i'm a little confused. I notice their 5W-40 is CF rated at least, but that's older/below the CH-4 rating?
Shell does say this is multi-fuel and has a tickbox next to turbocharged diesels, so it's prbobably fine. My guess is that it's API C standard results were never published.

Anyone know more about this?

[Doggie 1]

Use this:

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 | Shell Australia

It meets manufacturer's specifications.
I have used it in both of my high km i30 diesels from day one.

[eXDee]

Thanks for the response. That's the next one over in the shell product brochure i linked, and the mechanic suggested that 5W-30 would probably be better than 5W-40 in NZ, as you get slightly better fuel economy but still good low temperature performance.

I'll try and use the right one next time - probably get my own if i can get it cheap.

But will this stuff put in last week affect my engine at all? Or would i be fine running it for a year?

[Doggie 1]

I'll have to wait for a techie to answer that one, sorry.

[xiziz]

It will run fine on the c3, its a low saps oil to help protect the dpf, I would leave it 15k km or 1y. No need to stick to it at the next change though, no dpf to protect, b4 will get the job done for you. Without ever having been on NZ, I'm inclined to think the weather is fairly mild, 5w-30 should be good.

All I've read says c3 surpasses b4

[beerman]

I thought I'd add to this thread instead of starting a new one.

Had my FD i30 serviced by an independent mechanic for the first time as out of warranty.

90,000km service which would have been a fixed price $905 ended up costing only $350 after I provided my oil plus genuine Hyundai oil, fuel and air filters (about $130). So all up a good saving.

Anyway, he did make a comment that he thought it blew more black smoke after giving it a bit of throttle than he was used to and made a recommendation to use a thicker oil than I had provided (Full synthetic Castrol Edge 5W-30). He recommended I go up to 5W-40 next time around.

I've not noticed much oil consumption at all. The dipstick was still at around the full mark a few weeks before this service. I'm still getting it serviced as per the standard recommendations 1 year/15,000 km.

I know my car gets a bit smoky with any acceleration above 3000rpm but I rarely rev it to that degree and with normal driving I don't notice anything in the rear view mirror. I thought it was a typical diesel car.

It got me thinking can a smoky diesel car be due to the oil being too thin? I know in older petrol cars a thicker oil is meant to prevent oil leaks and consumption. Is it the same for a diesel engine?

From memory the reason the 90k is so expensive is they service the auto as well. Did your mechanic do that?

Only time I have seen smoke in an FD is if I get enthusastic on the throttle (Say turning into a tighter than normal gap in traffic).