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Sound insulation and free mechanics.

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Offline Meatpacker

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Hi. new to the forum so please excuse me if i misplace this post, i chose interior because my main questions are regarding sound insulation.

So in short. i can access a workshop and its mechanics for free. the catch is that they are mechanics in training with a veteran mechanic to watch over them.
Naturally im exploiting this to the max. having them do all filters, brakes, oil chages ect. but i want to milk it further with a new clutch, maybe new turbo or tuning and an EGR cleaning.
but most of all id like to make the car a more comfortable space but dynamatting doors, wheel wells, and the hood.
theese 3 areas seem like the easiest and cheapest (comments on this are welcome)

I have read several forum posts on this forum and i have learned/not learned the following:
- some people claim it makes no difference and some people say it makes the world of different.
- later models are more isulated, but my FD model sound like a tin can. im sure it has nothing!
- breaking mounting clips on panels, making rattling worse, is a real risk.

My questions:
- should i even do it? personally im willing to take a small risk even for a small improvement. its gonna be dirt cheap anyway.
- what brand, type and thickness of isulation material should i get.
- if you had free mechanics, what would you do? preventive maintenance or improvement wise.

Thanks in advance.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 13:26:47 by Meatpacker »
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline Meatpacker

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Bonus info: a mechanic can easily cost €50 per half hour where im from. so free access is stupid amazing for me!
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline Dazzler

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Welcome Meatpacker,

Interesting Scenario. Personally, If I could source the soundproofing materials for a good price I'd give it a shot. As well as good reviews I would be wanting to use the material with the lightest weight if that can be established.

I'm aware moderator AlanHo tried with minimal success. I also recall someone having some success by adding a second row of door and boot/hatch seals but they didn't make any noticeable difference for me on a later model i30.

Hope you get some responses and if you proceed I look forward to some feedback. :goodjob:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Meatpacker

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Hey Dazzler

thanks for your response. i read both your article and the one you refer to by Alanho

:link: Installing Noise Insulation - GD i30 CRDi

but i noticed that while he says it was not a great success, he shows 1-4 DB improvements in most scenarios,
and if i dont remember wrong, +3DB is a doubleing in perceived loudness and should be a nice difference.
Also i hope my FD model can gain more from it than you guys's GD's.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 13:37:18 by Meatpacker »
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline sundiz

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FD is a loud car. It is a pleasure to drive the GD sometimes. I started to think sound proofing my FD, when I had the rear doors fully stripped. The doors had nothing in them. High quality sound absorbion material is expensive, so I decided to put the door trim back on and just turn up the radio, so I can't hear other noises.
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Offline buff

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Funny how thing work. I have only two days ago finished putting Butyl Car Sound Deadener on my PD I30.
The car from new was reasonably quiet but I do a lot of country driving and wanted to make it even quieter which this has achieved.
I didn't take a sound level measurement before I did it but I would say I easily achieved a 6-8Db drop (only need the radio half as loud).

I used this that I got off ebay (2.2mm Butyl Car Sound Deadener) (Roller) and lined each door panel and the rear cargo/tyre well and around the rear wheel arches.
It only needed one roll and only took a lazy afternoon to do so I would totally recommend installing it if your car is noisy. If you had the time and energy doing the floor and even under the roof liner would reduce even more noise in the car.

Hope that helps.

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Offline Meatpacker

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Hi buff

Thanks for feedback. did you purchase only 1 package (4m2)? or did u buy 2 for all doors, boots and wheel wells?
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Offline buff

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only needed one roll for the doors and boot area.
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Offline Dazzler

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@buff Great timing as you say. Good to hear. Funny how you get used to a quieter vehicle though. I thought my new Hybrid was a lot quieter than my SR and it certainly is in some situations. However, because the engine is much quieter and sometimes not running at all and the tyre noise is a bit lower, I notice quite a bit of wind noise, particularly on windy days. I'm guessing dynamat won't help with that!  :crazy1:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline buff

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Might help on the windows, but a bit like playing blind man's bluff  :crazy2: :snigger:
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Offline Meatpacker

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Status so far:

I bought about 7m2 Noico 2mm. surely a fair bit more than i need,
but it was dirt cheap and reviews were quite good.

in addition i bought a Sachs clutch and a full set of bosch filters.

Lastly im looking into a stage 1 tuning of my car.
I can legally and with no extra ensurance fee do a 20% power increse over what the car is build for.
From what i can gather the 110 and 115HP versions of the car used the exact same motor as mine.
which will allow me to tune up to 115*1,2=138HP or as far as i can, without exceeding emmisions *1,20
i imagine theese rules are national, so dont think too much about it if it sounds weird to you.

Now im just waiting for my appointment on the 25th.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2020, 08:45:27 by Meatpacker »
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline GaKu

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Offline Meatpacker

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Update: im silencing the shit out of this! (well.. not gonna do roof... yet..)
I have purchased 3 different sound Insulation materials and studied the door panels of my car.
Think ill do it myself to ensure its done 100% OCD. also changing speakers while im in there.
 
- Noico 2mm Butyl and alu skinned Sound Deadening mats
- Advanced Acoustics Soundproofing Mat 3m by 1.25m by 2mm thin - 5kg/m2
- Some self adhesive Acoustic Foam, the thinest i could get at 25mm

The Noico is to stop reverberating noice in the car. i think this will really make a difference
and im gonna put it in everywhere i dare remove the panels.

The Acoustics Soundproofing Mat takes noices traveling through the air.
Im gonna use it for even horizontal surfaces. such as under trunk floor mat and under floor mats in general.

The self adhesive Acoustic Foam is to fill in some small dead spaces behind first panel in the doors.
it has 2 hard surfaces facing eachother.. cant have that... i want silence now..


Does anyone know if there are any posts in here about clearing down to the metal floor in a FD?


@GaKu sorry bro i cant share, but to safisfy your curiosity, it's in Sønderbronx.
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline Crustycottage

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+1 for sound deadening aluminium butyl pads especially in doors greatly reduces the road noise in my PD. It is easier if you separate the window from lifting device to make access far easier for applying rubber to the inside door panel. Also added butyl to the rear boot floor in mine, removed rear seats to make it easier.  :whistler:     
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Offline Meatpacker

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its going down monday or tuesday, update to come.
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline Dazzler

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its going down monday or tuesday, update to come.

Cool! Can't wait for the feedback.  :happydance:
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Offline Meatpacker

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Okay, so here it is: My Hyundai I30 FD 2007/2011 sound insulation/noise reduction deep-dive

Materials/special tools:
- Noico 2 mm aluminium butyl mat (i used roughly 4-5m²)
This work by sucking vibration out of metal, stopping sound creation
- Noico Red 4 mm, in hindsight could have considered the 8mm too (i used 3,4m²)
This works by absorbing airborne sound and stopping it spreading and echoing.
- High Temperature Hoodliner Foam 11mm unbranded (i used 1m²)
Same as Noico red but high heat resistant
- Advanced Acoustics Soundproofing Mat 2mm (i used 2,5m²)
This works by blocking airborne sound with mass. very basic.
- Roller tool for the Butyl mats, see guides further down
- Car trim removal tool set
- Tesa cloth tape (used this just everywhere i went to tape up anything that could or looked like it could rattle)

Reserch/guides:
(How to)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3iD3lYMI6g
(About and how to)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4ylKyoY_oU
(Perfect door disassembly guide) :link: How to Fix and Install a Hyundai i30 Window Regulator Mechanism Assembly FD 07-12 - YouTube
There are many more like theese and i recommend watching a few more,
first 2 explain well how and why and the 3rd, the door disassembly video
was for me the enabler that made me know i could make this project.

I will now go over what i did and the effects, in order, and thereby the effects in order as i experienced them.
Note that i used a ton of degeraser and brake cleaner because i had to remove some anti rust greese stuff everywhere i went.
I wont be talking about this, just remove it. Also this may not apply to you as i live in a wet and salty land and the car was treated.

Doors: First i did the doors. I used Noico 2 mm aluminium butyl and Noico Red 4 mm on top.
It took about 16 hours work and a major disappointment. it did little that i could tell apart from placebo.....huge disappointment.....
Until i turned on the car audio and learned that it improved the sound massively and fixed every major issue i had with the speaker sound.
I have now decided AGAINST upgrading the speakers, since they are now great and more powerful speakers may introduce new rattles.
Also the doors close like a mercedes now. very satisfying.

Trunk: I used Noico 2 mm aluminium butyl everywhere i could get without getting to brave on removing panels and seats.
then a mat of Acoustics Soundproofing 2mm on top of the spare wheel, under the floor liner.
This had some real effect that i could tell apart from placebo. Upon driving i got a decibel or two and i felt a little less vibration in the whole car.
and here comes some theory-crafting; i only got this effect noticeably from the trunk. i think cause i apply bytyl directly to chassis instead of on door/hatch
which only attach to the chassis by a couple bolts. and since the butyl works by 'sucking' vibration out of the metal, it makes sense it would
work so much better when applied directly to the chassis.

Hatch: Same as doors, Noico butyl and Noico red foam. but no guide for disassembly. tried my best, broke 1 clip because i twisted one panel a bit (never twist),
but was otherwise easy. I did this along with the floor mats and together it made a tiny difference that again was hard to tell apart from placebo.

Floors: Note this is an easy-escape solution. I did this because floor and roof requires complete disassembly of the whole interior to treat with Noico Butyl.
It would be nice but i just dont dare, its too hard for my skill level and if i break a bunch of clips i get rattles. Instead i Cut mats out of the
Advanced Acoustics Soundproofing mat 2mm. I cut them so they lay below the floor mats and add some sound blocking from below,
in hindsight i should have made them a bit longer in front to reach up under the dash and stop some motor sound.
be careful not to impede your speeder or brake.

Hood: I removed the hood-liner that came factory. Added Noico Bytyl to the metal and then i filled in all the ''holes'' with Noico red
untill i had made an even surface (+/- 2 cm) then i added the High Temperature Hoodliner on top to protect everything from the heat.
This really did the trick.. My car is a Diesel so it was loud before, but motor noise is perceivably down to half or less now.

Final result: Night and day difference. all the little differences stacked up real nicely. motor noise is massively down, the cockpit is clearly more insulated and
whole car vibration is down triggering less rattlers, altho at first it sounded like more rattle, because i could hear it better. the cloth tape and a rattle hunt was a great finnish.
At this point it feels like a far more expensive car. I wanna try a wheel well treatment and some softer tiers now, because its pretty much only road noice im hearing now.

i wouldn't recommend the full treatment if your 2007 I30 FD is some old junk. it was a lot of work.
but my late 2011 was in kinda nice condition and i feel worth the effort.

I hope someone gets use of this.
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline mickd

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Cheers,  busy busy person   :goodjob2:
Was going to ask if you are taking orders, but , then I saw where you are
  :faint:  :lol:
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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks so much Meatpacker,

An interesting experiment and appreciate the update. I'm glad it equaled or even possibly exceeded your expectations.

My Camry Hybrid is a bit weird noise wise. Around town when running on electric only or even slowly on petrol/electric it is virtually silent. But, once on the highway it is not much quieter than any other car i've had and wind noise can be quite bad. (something I don't thing body deadener will help with)  :undecided:
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Offline Meatpacker

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@Dazzler
Funny enough it started well below my expectation.
The final addition (the hood) was the thing that pulled it up to my hopes scenario, past my expectation.

Also for your high-speed noise problem. it is probably road noise, so some acoustically optimized tires might help?
That is my situation at lest. my tires are economy and grip optimized, so loud AF on anything but the most perfect road.
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Offline Meatpacker

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Recommendations:

- I would recommend anyone doing the trunk, because it is just so easy and 1½ m² butyl is cheap, and it made a difference.
(careful with first panel, the one over the lock. remove exterior 2 plastic clips, then lift it straight up)

- I would recommend anyone with Diesel to do the hood, because not the hardest and massive effect.
(the plastic flips on th e hood liner will be a nightmare without propper tools)

- I would recommend doing the doors if you are audiophile.
i think it might often play out better then changing speakers.
get the help of a friend for the doors.

Note my comments apply to the 2007-2011 FD model mostly.
im pretty sure later model use modern type of vapor shields in the doors,
making it more of a 'no return' deal, and much better insulation from the factory anyway.
  • I30 2011 FD 5 Door Hatch 1.6 CRDI 90HP Manual


Offline Dazzler

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@Dazzler
Funny enough it started well below my expectation.
The final addition (the hood) was the thing that pulled it up to my hopes scenario, past my expectation.

Also for your high-speed noise problem. it is probably road noise, so some acoustically optimized tires might help?
That is my situation at lest. my tires are economy and grip optimized, so loud AF on anything but the most perfect road.

They are Michelin Primacy LC 3 ST which are a low rolling resistance tyre i think. They seem to be wearing quite slowly which suggests they are quite hard not sure how they rate noise wise. The wind noise on a windy day seems to be the biggest problem. 
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


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