Author Topic: I30 FD 2011 drivers side window regulator stuffed, how do i get the guts out?  (Read 323 times)

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  • Posts: 11
  • au Australia
    Sydney
  • Hammy Hampster
Hi Folks

window regulator is stuffed, I have removed the basic panel, I have removed screws from the big metal panel but I need to know how to disengaged the handle and lock so I can remove the metal plate for regulator replacement??


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  • au Australia
    Camden, NSW
Hi,
Plenty of help in the search section of the forum,  sure you'll find it 👍
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  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Hi Folks

window regulator is stuffed, I have removed the basic panel, I have removed screws from the big metal panel but I need to know how to disengaged the handle and lock so I can remove the metal plate for regulator replacement??

You need to make sure all the harnesses are disconnected and unclipped from the panel. There's a wiring loom attached to the door lock . Once you're happy it's al free to move without ripping the wires out, pull it away from the door slighlty and then wiggle it forward towards the front of the car to disengage2 plastic fingers that lock into the door lock assembly.
Are you rebuilding it or replacing entire assembly?
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  • Author
  • Posts: 11
  • au Australia
    Sydney
  • Hammy Hampster
I thought I would be doing the complete assembly to ensure there is no stupid mistake on my part......just could see how the large metal plate with looms etc  could separate from the lock/handle assembly inside the cavity...off I go to challenge the beast again

Thanks
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  • au Australia
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I thought I would be doing the complete assembly to ensure there is no stupid mistake on my part......just could see how the large metal plate with looms etc  could separate from the lock/handle assembly inside the cavity...off I go to challenge the beast again

Thanks
Then I would reomove all harneses and clips first. Some unclip from the inside, needle nose pliers should be of assistance. Patience and not rushing is the key to reduced damage!

Refurbing is a piece of piss, hardest part is getting the cable back in. If you've purchased a used assembly it's life will be very variable. I had mine go, put in one from a 41000k car and 2 years youger and it failed again with the year.

I'm currently trying out the clips from ebay. Always seems to be the heaviest end that fails. Done 3 now, happy with what I've used so far.
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Place it in front of a mirror and it'll look normal. LOL.

Place it in front of a mirror and it'll look normal. LOL.
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I don't know why he removes the entire lock, but hey, he gets it done. Not necessary but getting the lock harness of can be a pain without clear sight.
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  • au Australia
    Perth
About it being the heaviest end that fails, it also has the most glass to channel friction. Remember to lubricate the channels.

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  • au Australia
    Sydney
  • Hammy Hampster
hi folks....I ordered the regulator assembly which has two metal channels attached to cables and the main cog. looking at removing the original bracket assembly I can see what looks like four big rivots holding the metal channel to the metal plate. There appears to be round discs that may act as nuts but not sure.  the new bracket assembly has bolts that would go through the mounting hole and secured with hex nuts...do I/how do I remove the discs (nut?) or is it a rivot?  Any suggestions would be great

thanks
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  • au Australia
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Sorry, I haven't done it but sounds a bit like you'll have to carefully drill them out?
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Imagining what that looks like, and having done that job on a SEAT Cordoba, I would agree with drilling and replacing with bolts and nuts or new rivets.
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 :-[
Or not.
 :lol:

What I found on the Cordoba was a press fit of the shell over the motor/gear plate using foldover tongues which were easy enough to pry apart. I'm not seeing the rivets in the illustration above.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2018, 17:51:06 by The Gonz » »
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:-[
Or not.
 :lol:

What I found on the Cordoba was a press fit of the shell over the motor/gear plate using foldover tongues which were easy enough to pry apart. I'm not seeing the rivets in the illustration above.

 :spitty:



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Ah, what a difference being led to an image makes. If yours comes with bolts, I don't see any other option than drilling, but do you really need to replace the rails as well anyway? :Dunno:
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  • au Australia
    Sydney
  • Hammy Hampster
Hi Folks,
thank you for input. Everyone has contributed snippets and pictures.  I bought the bracket assembly form a company in Brisbane for $95 plus $15 for express delivery...cheaper if Aust Post used. AUTO PARTS SUPPLY QLD PTY LTD

There are four ways to fix the window regulator issue:
-get someone else to do the repair
-buy the whole metal plate which comes with new regulator cog, cables etc, just exchange speaker and grommets
-buy the bracket assembly, with regulator cog, cables, rails
-buy the cog, cable and slider for the rails in a kit

Me...the bracket was the one I bought then realised that I could have bought the plate for $210...may have been the better way , the temperature was 38 degrees when I was doing this.

As I had the bracket assembly, I had to remove the original bracket by drilling out the 5 rivets with 8mm drill using a smaller pilot whole first. Greased up all the cable , slides, cog, noting that the glass grippers are accessible through the oval cut out with rubber surround and cap. Slot in the metal plat assembly, feed door latch cable through the wholes and attaché to the door handle/lock assembly. bolt the plate to the door....I had taped up the glass in the up position so I could lower it down into the glass grippers ad tighten up the bolts. fitted the trim...only broke one plastic button!!!   
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  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Hi Folks,
thank you for input. Everyone has contributed snippets and pictures.  I bought the bracket assembly form a company in Brisbane for $95 plus $15 for express delivery...cheaper if Aust Post used. AUTO PARTS SUPPLY QLD PTY LTD

There are four ways to fix the window regulator issue:
-get someone else to do the repair
-buy the whole metal plate which comes with new regulator cog, cables etc, just exchange speaker and grommets
-buy the bracket assembly, with regulator cog, cables, rails
-buy the cog, cable and slider for the rails in a kit

Me...the bracket was the one I bought then realised that I could have bought the plate for $210...may have been the better way , the temperature was 38 degrees when I was doing this.

As I had the bracket assembly, I had to remove the original bracket by drilling out the 5 rivets with 8mm drill using a smaller pilot whole first. Greased up all the cable , slides, cog, noting that the glass grippers are accessible through the oval cut out with rubber surround and cap. Slot in the metal plat assembly, feed door latch cable through the wholes and attaché to the door handle/lock assembly. bolt the plate to the door....I had taped up the glass in the up position so I could lower it down into the glass grippers ad tighten up the bolts. fitted the trim...only broke one plastic button!!!

Nice. those rivets look like they'd be tough to drill.  With regards to the clips, was it a blue bugger on the right hand side upper area?

I swear it's the same one I break every darn time no matter how hard I try
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Well done, mate. :victory:
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