[turtleneck]

Hi all,

New to the forum, happy to be here. With my 2012 GD now out of warranty I'm servicing it myself. I'm competent on the tools and am setting out to change the auto trans fluid.

I couldn't find instructions for the GD but found this for the Elantra which I'm guessing has the same box (all the fill and check points were the same): elantra 2011-2016 auto trans fluid change

Is this the same box as in the i30? Without the GDS diagnostics is there any way to know when the auto trans fluid temp is about 60 degrees? Lastly I've got Penrite LV to replace the factory fluid with, has anyone else used this? I got 8 litres, so I'll dump once and refill, drive a few days to mix it up and dump again and refll, hopefully ending up with mostly new fluid

[tw2005]

Penrite LV

I've used the ATF FS and have no issues in mine but of course that's the spec for the old 4 speed. I would presume the LV (Low Viscosity) is correct for the GD 6 speed. It mentions SP IV, mine is SP III.

Drain , refill is a very inefficient way of doing it.

[turtleneck]

Yep, SP-IV is specified for the GD six speed and the Penrite LV meets it.

I agree - I would rather flush but I'm not going to mess with the radiator connections and try and dodgy it. I was deadset on doing this, but maybe I need to pay a pro to flush it. A few hundred dollars every 80,000km isn't too bad.

[mickd]

Hi Turtle,
Any oil change means "change all" oil, not leave 1/2 the old oil in and top up.
 You wouldn't do engine oil change and leave the old filter on.
Pay up and be clean and happy 👍

[turtleneck]

So I'm back with an update and some advice for those needing to do this in future.

I ended up doing the drain and fill myself. I called around three or four places - the two that would do a machine-assisted flush wanted $295 for it. The other two wanted around the same for a drain and fill, 'up to four times' according to one place. I weighed up the cost versus benefit and decided that doing a drain and fill would be OK.

I used Penrite LV 4L, $34 from supercheap on special. Two bottles needed, so 8L of new fluid through the transmission.

My procedure is slightly modified, since I had no way to accurately measure fluid temp as per the above linked method (I have access to an IR thermometer but don't feel it would be an accurate / efficient procedure). It works by simply replacing what you take out at a known temperature and relies on assuming the starting fluid level is correct - if its never been changed then it's been set by Hyundai themselves and can't be far wrong.

You don't need to lift the car at all for this procedure.

1. Ensure the engine is as cold as possible. Ideally the new and old oil should be the same temp, the easiest is to let them both be at ambient temp i.e. engine cooled down.
2. Loosen the airbox to inlet piping hoseclamp. Loosen the 3x 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the body. Two long 1/4" drive extensions on a ratchet reaches them nicely. Pull the inlet pipe off the airbox, and remove the entire airbox from the bay (it will slide off the cold air intake pipe below).
3. Wipe any debris from around the plastic fill bolt on top of the transmission and loosen it with a square drive ratchet. This allows air to get in and replace draining oil.
4. Put down some cardboard as things invariably get messy. Crack the drain plug with a 24mm socket and ratchet / bar. Place a low pan underneath and remove the plug. My washer stuck to the transmission so didn't need to fish it out.
5. Wait for oil to drain to a very slow drip, replace the drain plug and nip up.
6. Measure the amount of oil removed. My oil pan has measurements, and exactly 4L was drained, which made replacing easy.
7. Using a long funnel (get a flexible silicone one from bunnings for $8) remove the fill bolt and push the funnel down into the hole. It has a shoulder just below the outer collar, you need to get below this (the above mentioned funnel fits in perfectly). If you don't do this and sit the funnel outlet on the shoulder / shelf, you will overflow the filler and make a mess.
8. Slowly pour in the oil - as in very slowly. A 2-3mm dribble is all it can take before it will back up. If you see it start to do this, back off and let it burp plus ten seconds, then continue.
9. Once filled with the exact amount you took out, reinstall the filler bolt and reconnect the airbox. If you're happy with one bottle, install the airbox properly. If you're doing another bottle connect it temporarily upside down resting on the frame just with the hoseclamp tightened.
10. Start the car and check for leaks. Run it through all shift positions, letting it sit in each one for a while. Even better, take it for a short drive to mix up the old and new fluids (install the airbox correctly, but you don't need to bolt it down).
11. Park up and let the car cool fully.
12. Repeat entire process. You may need to put some of your dumped fluid in if somehow more than 4L comes out, but it will be half new anyway so no problem.
13. Clean up spilled oil with brake cleaner, wipe everything down, reinstall and take for a test drive, check for leaks.

[tw2005]

Sounds like it went ok for you. Did you by chance take any images of the old fluid on the first drain?

It's always nice to get real data. When I drained the fluid out of a 41000k  7 year 4 speeder it was like dark chocolate. Not looking god at all.

[nzenigma]

Hi Turtle,
Any oil change means "change all" oil, not leave 1/2 the old oil in and top up.
 You wouldn't do engine oil change and leave the old filter on.

Im with you Mick. These guy's have gone the usual route and have ignored the torque convertor and cooling lines.

Tut TuT,    I would never do that ; or at least, admit to it .

Pay up and be clean and happy 👍

Exactly, pay Council Rates and do the flush in an Ippy park. 

[turtleneck]

Sorry, didn’t get to finish my post before the battery died.

On test drive, the upshifts are noticeably smoother - silky in fact. Downshifts I haven’t noticed a difference. Moving between shift positions is as before. I drove it in semi-auto mode pushing through the gears and it’s absolutely lovely. This may be me imagining it but it also seems the temp gauge is sitting at one bar less than before.

Tw2005: the original oil was red wine in colour, not too bad for 82,000km. Compared to red cordial for the Penrite. There was a pea-size amount of metal filings on the drain plug magnet.

nzenigma: except the torque converter isn’t ignored, it’s just not addressed at the same time as the pan oil. Driving the car after each drain and fill ensures that old and new oil mixes, and even in a brief drive this will absolutely mix the entirety of the fill and go through the TC. Dumping it twice I’ve got upwards of 65% new fluid and after another 40k I’ll do the same. It’s horses for courses - some people like the convenience of handing off to have a flush done (which as a side note I’m sure MANY people have been given exactly the same treatment as mine by shops with no idea / not enough equipment) while others enjoy the DIY aspect and the cost savings. While a full flush is the best choice, drain and fill is perfectly adequate and safe - some modern gearboxes can’t even be machine flushed.

When I get home I’ll post up the links to the funnel and oil.

[The Gonz]

Cheers, Turtleneck. What a difference clean new lubrication makes!
I returned to work this morning on my mountain bike and was amazed at how quiet and smooth the chain action was until I remembered a few Ks later that on my last day of work I greased the chain generously before putting her away for the last 3 weeks.

[CraigB]

Mixing old and new fluids isn't something I would have done, you can dump and replace as many times as you like but once the new fluid has mixed with the old it's contaminated, whether it's 60/40 or 95/5 new it's still contaminated and the new fluid will quickly lose it properties.

We had the 99 Excel professionally serviced and flushed with 12ltrs of fluid 6 months ago for $220, still runs like new

[turtleneck]

You’re not wrong, it’s certainly not the same as a full machine flush but workable and safe for those want to save some money and / or DIY. These things are pretty robust and have been known to run several hundred thousand KM on the original fluid (as Hyundai themselves say they should!) so either method is a win!

[tw2005]

I've just done the same style of box, A6MF2. Likewise 4L came from the drain which is convenient given the bottles are 4L.

I too used Penrite Multi FS LV.

anyway just to add that I did my usual flush via the top return line of the cooler built into the side of the radiator.

there's nothing complicated nor dodgy about this. Having drained 4L and replenished 4L I then removed the spring clamp on the hose  connected to the top joint. Plug the hose end then attach clear tubing to the top pipe and run that into the empty Penrite bottle.

Start the car and the fluid will start to be pumped out of that line into the bottle. You will see the colour change as the old comes out  and the newer fluid arrives.

Ideally stop at 3.5 L which is just before you reach the 4L drain capacity and air would arrive. With the second 4L bottle you would add the 3.5l out.

Job done. The only thing i would say here is that the fluid added will be cooler than that coming out which may lead to a higher level in the.

Here's a handy link for  the 6 Speeders i found from the US. worth the read

A little more about the 6-speed from Korea | Search Autoparts,3

[beerman]

I remember asking the good people at Hyundai about the auto service with the 90k service on the FD. Drain and fill was their response.

I went and had mine flushed but what is good for the goose....