[Spongey]

Evening all,
Looking under the car today for a rear central jacking point, I have a towbar to fit so a rear central jacking point would be useful I noticed the following box section on the rear cross beam.

I have found someone in another post using this point to no ill effect but they were not sure what it was so I was wondering before I attempt to lift on this point what is it? It appears to have no purpose beyond perhaps a mass to change the resonance frequency of the axel or for a mounting point for an optional extra which was not fitted? both guesses

The car is a late 2012 i30 tourer CRDi (post facelift), I have attached 2 pictures any info welcome!

Dave

PICTURES

Rear of car

Close up

[tw2005]

Evening all,
Looking under the car today for a rear central jacking point, I have a towbar to fit so a rear central jacking point would be useful I noticed the following box section on the rear cross beam.

I have found someone in another post using this point to no ill effect but they were not sure what it was so I was wondering before I attempt to lift on this point what is it? It appears to have no purpose beyond perhaps a mass to change the resonance frequency of the axel or for a mounting point for an optional extra which was not fitted? both guesses

The car is a late 2012 i30 tourer CRDi (post facelift), I have attached 2 pictures any info welcome!

Dave

PICTURES

Rear of car

Close up

Congrats on the first guess. Not something I would have thought of but it's labelled as a

Dynamic Damper Assembly, 55499-A6000

[Surferdude]

I would feel more comfortable with two strong axle stands under the sill jacking points.
Then I always slide the loose wheels under the suspension as well. I realise you don't need to remove the wheels to fit a towbar so in this case they could stay mounted.

[tw2005]

I would feel more comfortable with two strong axle stands under the sill jacking points.
Then I always slide the loose wheels under the suspension as well. I realise you don't need to remove the wheels to fit a towbar so in this case they could stay mounted.

I reckon the jack stands are coming once he's happy with his central jacking point and gets it up in th eair.

[Surferdude]

I would feel more comfortable with two strong axle stands under the sill jacking points.
Then I always slide the loose wheels under the suspension as well. I realise you don't need to remove the wheels to fit a towbar so in this case they could stay mounted.

I reckon the jack stands are coming once he's happy with his central jacking point and gets it up in th eair.

I still don't think I'd jack on that.

[tw2005]

I would feel more comfortable with two strong axle stands under the sill jacking points.
Then I always slide the loose wheels under the suspension as well. I realise you don't need to remove the wheels to fit a towbar so in this case they could stay mounted.

I reckon the jack stands are coming once he's happy with his central jacking point and gets it up in th eair.

I still don't think I'd jack on that.

Not going to take much to remove it but with that block of rubber and if you had a soild block of wood to distribute the load I reckon you'd get away with it. Seems reasonably thick bracket.

[Spongey]

Thanks, everyone, not a bad guess!
and thanks for the concern it is only to get the car in the air, I have seen what happens when a hydraulic seal fails when a car is in the air. So jacking stands going straight under rear cills. Just prefer not to jack one side at a time never feels as secure as doing it in one.
The dish and pad on the jack are huge so the whole assembly should fit on it but if need be would pack out with wood. Will keep a close eye on it and if need be will just take it off and lift on the beam, the part looks to only be on by two bolts so not a big issue to remove.
Will throw some pictures up of the job in progress and when it is done.
Thanks all.

[tw2005]

Thanks, everyone, not a bad guess!
and thanks for the concern it is only to get the car in the air, I have seen what happens when a hydraulic seal fails when a car is in the air. So jacking stands going straight under rear cills. Just prefer not to jack one side at a time never feels as secure as doing it in one.
The dish and pad on the jack are huge so the whole assembly should fit on it but if need be would pack out with wood. Will keep a close eye on it and if need be will just take it off and lift on the beam, the part looks to only be on by two bolts so not a big issue to remove.
Will throw some pictures up of the job in progress and when it is done.
Thanks all.

We love pictures and feedback. makes the whole forum more interesting and educational

[xiziz]

You probably saw my post, I have jacked it up on the dampener several times, no ill effect. Of course Jack stands go under once its up. It looked solid so I took the risk. I use a rubber pad between the jack and car.

Good to know what is for other than jacking.

I'd like to find a safe front point if you guys know about one?

[Spongey]

Just to finish this topic off.

Towbar fitted missed taking any pictures as it became a bit of a mission.
fitted:
Fixed Swan Neck Towbar for Hyundai i30 CW ESTATE 12 on Tow Bar 19114/F_H1 | eBay

It is a Umbra Rimorchi never heard of them but its a budget italian towbar and for £78 for swan neck (has now gone up to £98) coudn't complain. Its type aproved and all parts were of really good quality including the electric mounting braket which was 5mm plate. Everything lined up and fitted great instructions weren't bad either!

Jacking on the damper was fine alhough only loaded it for as short a time as possible and lowered the car onto stands.

The i30 has 3 captive bolts (M10x1.25) each side, welded inside steel rails under the chasis. On the right side of the tourer these bolts are exposed to the elements and this is where the problems began....
Managed to get all the bolts fitted bar one on the right side where the nut had only been tack welded on one side when the car was built. There were blobs of weld on all 4 sides of the captive nut but only one had made contact with the rail (it must of been a calibration day for the welder). Due to the surface corrosion on the nut thread when winding the bolt in it sheared off when the bolt was 10mm or so through. (This was using a 1/4 inch socket with light pressure). A lot of swearing, followed by having to cut the bolt off with a hacksaw which took a while, no space for angle grineder due to the exhaust.....
Luckily i was able to get a 17mm spanner down the rail with a M10 1.25 nut gaffa taped to the end and fitted a reaplactment bolt which was got torqued up properly.
If the towbar ever has to come off getting a spanner on that nut will be a nightmare!

All in all wasn't too bad to fit, if it hadn't been for the sheared nut it would of been an easy job.
For electrics I picked up a PF Jones model specific wiring kit which was really easy to fit. only tricky bit was working out how the interior trim panels came off.

Thanks for all your help.
Dave

[Dazzler]

Well done Dave. That bolt issue is something that would happen to me! No matter how careful I am I have Dramas with something on 90% of the bigger D.I.Y. jobs I attempt. 

Is it just me or is that design of tow bar very deep? Hopefully you don't find the side bracket parts bottoming out on gutters and stuff.