[crowyuk]

Hi, my daughter has an I30 1.4 petrol (2010 plate)

The battery was flat and thought might be original so replaced it, that also went flat so did the usual current test by removing the negative battery lead and connecting a current meter between the lead and the battery terminal and then started removing all the fuses 1 at a time to see what was drawing current.

The initial current draw was 0.3 Amps so wouldn't take long to drain a battery and after may fuses I found the STOP fuse was causing the issues, here is were the issues lay, i was expecting the rear brake lights to no longer work but they do. The interior lights & remote central locking do not ???? any ideas

[The Gonz]

You’ve taken the sensible first step in isolating the stop light circuit, which consists of at least cabling, pedal switch and lamp. Continue your isolating to zero in on the problem.

[crowyuk]

it looks like that fuse is for stop switch, key solenoid and ATM lever switch. What is the ATM Lever Switch

[nzenigma]

ATM = automatic transmission. Do you have manual or auto box ?

Not sure what cct diagram you are using. Autos have a lock device near shifter , active when in park and key is out of ign.

[crowyuk]

Manual transmission so that rules that switch out. will look at the Key solenoid

[nzenigma]

Do so... but If there was a problem with ignition, you would have no start.

 interior lights & remote central locking do not work....

Im suspecting a door switch is faulty.  can you switch int lights on with map-read switch?

If not, are the bulbs blown?

At 300 mAmp, its not a short cct, but corrosion could give that sort of reading.
We do get reports of water around door switches in the Pom cars.

Other option find the smartra unit etc under dash and start disconnecting. See if high current disappears.