[chrisdarl]

I'm a new member here, and a relatively new i30 owner (12 months).

I bought a 1.6L Diesel 2014 (63 plate) Blue Drive with 50k miles on it, since then I have done 27k miles, a lot on the motorway (as with the previous owner apparently), and quite a bit within a busy city.

Some days the gears are absolutely fine, all gears! But increasingly over the last few months my gear selection is getting increasingly difficult / more frequent. Initially I just figured it may be down to 'the weather' or something but as it's getting more frequent I think it's best to get to the bottom of it, and maybe it's a common problem / others have experienced this and are able to give some advice or at least stop me from being sold a complete new clutch or tear down/rebuild as my local Hyundai advised to 'take a look'.

To describe what's happening;
- From stationary going in to 1st can be difficult, like the gear isn't engaging even when the pedal is all the way to the floor. Sometimes it just won't go in at all, to remedy, pumping the clutch 3-4 times seems to ease things, sometimes completely and the gear goes in smoothly other times there still seems to be some resistance there. Alternatively, sometimes I go into 2nd gear first, don't raise the clutch and then slip it in to 1st.
- From stationary, selecting reverse gear can be similar to the above, other times it can seem smooth to go in but then grinds. Removing the gear and pumping the clutch twice it the gear then seems to go in as normal.

I'm not super knowledgeable about cars / mechanics but quite a practical person so not too afraid of doing some investigation (my father in law is good with cars so can likely help with any suggestions out of my depth).

If I've missed anything, or need me to take any photos do please let me know.

Thank you all so much in advance.

Chris

[Dazzler]

Welcome Chris,

I'm not one of the techies on here (just one of the "bosses" - and you know what bosses are like..  )

But, I think in view of the age and only moderate mileage of your vehicle it could just be a clutch adjustment or gear change linkage adjustment required rather than a new clutch.

One of our more knowledgeable members hopefully isn't away. So fingers crossed I am on the money and they can fill in the technicalities.

[tw2005]

I'm wondering if the GD has a damper valve in the hydraulic circuit  like the FD. I guess when you go reverse and pedal to the floor it grinds?

[chrisdarl]

I'm wondering if the GD has a damper valve in the hydraulic circuit  like the FD. I guess when you go reverse and pedal to the floor it grinds?

1 out of 15 times it grinds when going into reverse other times it's completely smooth, seems to be inline with when I am issues with gears 1 and 2.

My biting point is very low, I don''t know if that's typical for a Hyundai? I would say ~2cm (maybe less) up and the car will bite.

I'm not sure what FD and GD means, sorry!

[Dazzler]

I'm wondering if the GD has a damper valve in the hydraulic circuit  like the FD. I guess when you go reverse and pedal to the floor it grinds?

1 out of 15 times it grinds when going into reverse other times it's completely smooth, seems to be inline with when I am issues with gears 1 and 2.

My biting point is very low, I don''t know if that's typical for a Hyundai? I would say ~2cm (maybe less) up and the car will bite.

I'm not sure what FD and GD means, sorry!

FD is series 1 (Basically pre 2012) GD is your model (2012 - 2016) Latest model (series 3) is PD

[tw2005]

FD, GD and PD series.  generation 1 , 2 and now 3rd
You have the second generation from 2012 -17

I have the very first and  a number of us have reported difficult gear selection, very low bite point.

Turned out the damper valve gets weak and not all the hydraulic pressure arrives at the slave cylinder that operates the clutch. End result is less travel, clutch not fully disengaging.


This is on the FD, have a read

Low clutch bite point resolution

41690-A5900

Looks like the damper is only on the diesel which you have so yes I think it could be the same issue.

Blanking it off is a cheap way to test and rectify , it will alter the clutch reengagement and be a little more abrupt until you recalibrate your left leg. The damper slows the reengagement for less shock.

Image as a guide, have not found a GD version but If you know where to find the clutch master cyl then then the valve setup should be similar

[chrisdarl]

Awesome, thanks. I came across that thread but as my experiences were slightly different I figured best to ask before I tinker with things I don't fully understand

I read a few posts saying that removing the damper could cause longer-term damage to the clutch, those users were happy enough to do so seeing as they had over 200k km on it and if it got them another 100k they're happy to change the clutch then.  As my mileage is still quite low, removing it entirely concerns me a little so I guess I'll see if I can get a replacement damper if not a new master cylinder.

[chrisdarl]

I've just been having a snoop under the bonnet and think I may have found it. Does this look right?

I have also attached a photo of what looks to be the reservoir and shown it's fill level. Could this be an issue?

[eye30]

What are the revs when trying to engage?

Could they be causing an issue

[chrisdarl]

What are the revs when trying to engage?

Could they be causing an issue

When trying to engage reverse? Probably my foot is fully down on the clutch, and the car will be idle so around 1,000rpm I think.

[tw2005]

I've just been having a snoop under the bonnet and think I may have found it. Does this look right?

I have also attached a photo of what looks to be the reservoir and shown it's fill level. Could this be an issue?

The level may be an issue if it's low enough to let air into the system, could also indicate a leak.  Two places could be master or slave cylinders. You'd have to check internal around the pedal pushrod and boot areas, fluid can get trapped within the boot and conceal the issue, likewise at the gearbox where the slave is bolted, you'd check under the boot for leakage.

You could top it back to the max and monitor any changes and over what time for clues.

You could also try bleeding the hydraulic system on the clutch and see if any improvement .

Air in the system would produce similar symptoms as a bad damper. The air will compress first before the hydraulics work .

Level alone is inconclusive I think at this point, it may have been only filled to there or with wear and tear with the level may drop as it adjusts although I'm not 100% on that with clutches.

Definitely in a braking system, as brake pads wear the pistons self adjust with discs and have to extend. That results in a level drop which when you put fresh pads in and compress the pistons back in the level returns high again.

If you blank off that damper you'll need to bleed the system anyway,you could try a bleed first and see or blank it and bleed and monitor the fluid level.


As for wear or damage to the clutch, yeah maybe, I'm sure there's  reasons it's in there. Blanking it proves the fault, if it's a dud then get a new one, problem solved.

[nzenigma]

I read a few posts saying that removing the damper could cause longer-term damage to the clutch,

 Utter Crap 
Who posted? What experience do they have?
Unfortunately, the interweb is plagued by non-tech key board warriors; many, I suspect, haven't even got a driving licence . 

Many diesels use a dual mass flywheel. One part is spring tensioned so that the vibrations when motor meets gearbox during a gear change are smoothed out. Essentially, it is for driver comfort.
 The dual mass has a limited life span, diminished further by rough use and especially from heat when towing or slipping the clutch. In the past, I have swapped to a solid flywheel for this reason.

Hyundai have been smart, they use the pictured damper for the same reason: Creature comfort and they have an ever lasting solid flywheel. 

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 


P.S, Gerard @tw2005 . Good stuff above mate    It looks like that GD damper has a bleed nipple on it.

[Dazzler]

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 

All good @nzenigma I'll most likely have a 2020 or 2021 Camry Hybrid before that starts happening. 

[nzenigma]

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 

All good @nzenigma I'll most likely have a 2020 or 2021 Camry Hybrid before that starts happening. 

  Gee Dazz, cant lay a glove on you , can I? 

You may remember I was concerned about a Park and Neutral rattle in a DCT box in a 2015 GD (80,000Km). Not the actuators in the transmission as I initially thought, It is wear in the dual mass flywheel. Needs replacing.
Same as this lost dude wandering around his Volester

rattling clunking vibration sound on 2016 veloster turbo with 76k - YouTube

[Dazzler]

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 

All good @nzenigma I'll most likely have a 2020 or 2021 Camry Hybrid before that starts happening. 

  Gee Dazz, cant lay a glove on you , can I? 

You may remember I was concerned about a Park and Neutral rattle in a DCT box in a 2015 GD (80,000Km). Not the actuators in the transmission as I initially thought, It is wear in the dual mass flywheel. Needs replacing.
Same as this lost dude wandering around his Volester

rattling clunking vibration sound on 2016 veloster turbo with 76k - YouTube

It's interesting they have a dual mass flywheel! I think that's a first for the i30. Not real keen on that idea. I get the impression they are more prone to issues than a standard one. 

[tw2005]

I read a few posts saying that removing the damper could cause longer-term damage to the clutch,

 Utter Crap 
Who posted? What experience do they have?
Unfortunately, the interweb is plagued by non-tech key board warriors; many, I suspect, haven't even got a driving licence . 

Many diesels use a dual mass flywheel. One part is spring tensioned so that the vibrations when motor meets gearbox during a gear change are smoothed out. Essentially, it is for driver comfort.
 The dual mass has a limited life span, diminished further by rough use and especially from heat when towing or slipping the clutch. In the past, I have swapped to a solid flywheel for this reason.

Hyundai have been smart, they use the pictured damper for the same reason: Creature comfort and they have an ever lasting solid flywheel. 

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 


P.S, Gerard @tw2005 . Good stuff above mate    It looks like that GD damper has a bleed nipple on it.

   @nzenigma  Gazz, I usually have a keen eye for a nipple but I think we may be in the cold on this one. Looks like an AC line pressure point.

Zoom in, you can see the rest of the line ducks behind the damper 

[chrisdarl]

I read a few posts saying that removing the damper could cause longer-term damage to the clutch,

 Utter Crap 
Who posted? What experience do they have?
Unfortunately, the interweb is plagued by non-tech key board warriors; many, I suspect, haven't even got a driving licence . 

Many diesels use a dual mass flywheel. One part is spring tensioned so that the vibrations when motor meets gearbox during a gear change are smoothed out. Essentially, it is for driver comfort.
 The dual mass has a limited life span, diminished further by rough use and especially from heat when towing or slipping the clutch. In the past, I have swapped to a solid flywheel for this reason.

Hyundai have been smart, they use the pictured damper for the same reason: Creature comfort and they have an ever lasting solid flywheel. 

Hyundai use it on the i30 with the diesel or petrol motor ,....
 with one exception, i30 with DCT.  @Dazzler ,wait for the rattle 


P.S, Gerard @tw2005 . Good stuff above mate    It looks like that GD damper has a bleed nipple on it.

   @nzenigma  Gazz, I usually have a keen eye for a nipple but I think we may be in the cold on this one. Looks like an AC line pressure point.

Zoom in, you can see the rest of the line ducks behind the damper 

Getting a little lost, the bleed nipple that you're unsure of, is this to the right of the damper? If so, I don't think this was on the same part. I will take a look and post another photo 

Any guides out there anyone can point me towards for the process of bleeding?

[eye30]

What are the revs when trying to engage?

Could they be causing an issue

When trying to engage reverse? Probably my foot is fully down on the clutch, and the car will be idle so around 1,000rpm I think.

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

[chrisdarl]

What are the revs when trying to engage?

Could they be causing an issue

When trying to engage reverse? Probably my foot is fully down on the clutch, and the car will be idle so around 1,000rpm I think.

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

It could well be that... I'll keep note when I'm in the car later / tomorrow and report back.

[Shambles]

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

Yours is a petrol engine though...

[nzenigma]

Zoom in, you can see the rest of the line ducks behind the damper 

You are right.    all those pictures from the boss  Now I see nipples everywhere. 

[tw2005]

Zoom in, you can see the rest of the line ducks behind the damper 

You are right.    all those pictures from the boss  Now I see nipples everywhere. 

I'm out, that southern air is starting to affect you, the border gates are still open 

[nzenigma]

It's interesting they have a dual mass flywheel! I think that's a first for the i30. Not real keen on that idea. I get the impression they are more prone to issues than a standard one. 

It hadn't occurred to me either until I went on the hunt for this rattle.
Mark, my independent mechanic mate has replaced some associated with DCT rattle.

Normally there is a small amount of play that you can live with, but with  a  once cheap standard clutch replacement, these days you get quotes of $1000 +, because they also replace the flywheel.

[eye30]

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

Yours is a petrol engine though...

True

What should tick over be on diesel?

[chrisdarl]

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

Yours is a petrol engine though...

True

What should tick over be on diesel?

Looking back at mine, it is ticking over at about 750-800rpm


Anyone got any suggestions on where to find the bleed nipple for clutch? I plan to try and tackle it this weekend

[tw2005]

My tick over when warm is circa 750 rpm.

Wonder if on the high side

Yours is a petrol engine though...

True

What should tick over be on diesel?

Looking back at mine, it is ticking over at about 750-800rpm


Anyone got any suggestions on where to find the bleed nipple for clutch? I plan to try and tackle it this weekend

slave cylinder ath the gearbox will have that, where the clutch release fork is, you'll see it, presume at the front of the gearbox

,

[tw2005]

generic guide

How to Bleed a Clutch | YourMechanic Advice

[nzenigma]

Perfect advice.

Note ; If ever one holds a spanner,  the blue glove ( made in USA) is imperative.

[tw2005]

Perfect advice.

Note ; If ever one holds a spanner,  the blue glove ( made in USA) is imperative.

 

[chrisdarl]

Thanks everyone! I'll get under the car and have a look for it

Is it recommended that I change the fluid as well? Is there a particular type I should buy?