i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: aksel13 on March 22, 2021, 22:37:12
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I have got 2017 i30 and its developed a banging and knocking noise at left rear wheel. Its only doing when driving through potholes and broken road surface, not at humps. That makes me thinking that it will make the noise wherever there is no proper wheel contact with the road surface.
I visually checked many things that i could do myself and nothing seems loose. The suspension seems working as normal. I know its still under warranty and i can take it to the dealer as a last option but using the car every day for work hence i need it nowadays.
Has anyone had the similar symptoms?
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Try check rear stabilizer link bars. That might fit to your description. Fairly common issue to cause clunks on uneven surface. Cheap and easy fix also...
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I found it was the anti-roll bar drop links when my partners car had an annoying knocking noise from the front suspension. I traced it by getting them to violently rock the car up and down. If it's at the rear, it may require standing on the boot lip and using it like a trampoline. If you can reproduce the knock then you should be able to trace where it's coming from. Just take great care where you stick your hand or head with the car bouncing around or you could end up with broken fingers or worse.
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I guess i need to book the dealer soon as i can not make deep inspection at home.
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It depends on your mechanic skills and tools you have, but replacing a rear drop link is quite an easy job that can be done after removing the road wheel. As well as jacking the car up to remove the wheel I would also support it on an axle stand. You don't need to get underneath the car. New drop links aren't expensive either, I wouldn't expect to pay more than £15 each in the UK. The others things I have seen that cause knocking are worn anti-roll bar bushes, and loose bolts where the top of the shock absorber in anchored.
The problem with the drop links is that it is normally under tension from the spring so it's not so easy to feel if there is play or slop in the ball joint. If you can bounce the car up and down so the tension is on and off, the movement in the joint will allow it to knock. It probably won't be enough to
see the movement but you would hear the knock, and feel it if you touch the drop link, but take care not to trap your hand.
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Thanks very good explanation. Not something i can do at home or street and while its still under warranty i booked the dealer foe a quick look. Its probably a loose component somewhere hidden or under spring tension as bouncing the wheel up amd down doesn't reveal the noise yet.
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You're right, get the dealer to investigate if it's under warranty. I have also had knocking from loose wheel nuts which the dealer hadn't tightened up properly!
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Just fo the future reference whoever seeks for information about this issue. My problem is the shock absorber was leaking been found by the dealer.
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I hope they replace it under warranty, or even both sides. I believe it is good practice to replace shock absorbers as a pair.
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I hope they replace it under warranty, or even both sides. I believe it is good practice to replace shock absorbers as a pair.
Not only good practice.
It's unsafe to do otherwise.
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I dont think they will replace both side
I suppose only one side. Luckily the warranty is gonna cover it otherwise i was going to be charged 115 for only diagnostic
Bloody hell.
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