G’day and welcome to my first topic on the forum.
I have searched and read through many topics on the issue of the turbo whistle, and have tried various fixes bar replacing the turbo.
Here’s some background info
The car is a 2009 i30 CRDi Manual with 175,000 kms. Very low kms for the age and sold due to it being surplus to requirements. It was sold with the turbo whistle and I got it at a heavily reduced price. I was thinking that I could source the issue and fix without forking out for a new turbo.
It appears the car is always providing boost. It’s extremely quick even under low RPM’s and the whistle is audible as soon as the turbo kicks in, which is almost immediately on putting your foot on the accelerator.
From previous topics on this issue, I have discovered other members replacing the turbo (under warranty), replacing boost controller and vacuum leaks.
I have noticed that removing the small rubber pipe that leads into the turbo actuator delays when the turbo kicks in and acts more like it should. Supplying boost at around 1500 RPM rather than immediately.
Here is what I have tried so far:
Vacuum leaks: I have traced all pipe work and inspected for leaks and everything appears fine.
Turbo actuator: replaced it with another from a wreckers. Problem still exists.
Boost controller: I removed and checked the boost controller. Checked the relay wasn’t stuck and it was fine and gave it a clean out. Re-installed and still the same. I thought this would be the cause of the overboost/constant boost.
Turbo: I have checked for oil leaks and oil around the intake and it’s all reasonable. A little oil around where the PCV re-enters the intake pipe to the turbo (but that should be expected right?)
A deeper inspection of the turbo may be needed. There is no shaft play from inspection within the car. I’ve heard that bearings can go or possibly a damaged fin or bent fin in the turbine.
The car drives great but it’s obviously not how it’s meant to drive. Over boosting is a concern because if the turbo fails it will destroy the engine.
If anyone has any other ideas or solutions I would be grateful.
I don’t want to drive it with the turbo actuator pipe disconnected nor do I want to keep it connected and risk the turbo failing.
