[Dave M]

Our 2014 MY i30 Elite manual has just returned from it's 2nd annual service with a clean bill of health.

At the last service I mentioned that the car didn't pull well from low revs especially when going from overrun back onto the gas. They said that they couldn't find anything wrong.

During the last 12 months the problem hasn't gone away and has developed in that when when you accelerate from low revs there a distinct hesitation and shudder until the rev counter hits 3000 and all seems well after that.

It's noticeable when driving around town using 2nd and 3rd gears. For example if you're approaching a roundabout and it's clear to go, you put your foot back on the gas and there's a definite shudder and shake as it accelerates out. It's a bit like an old fashioned misfire.

I think that if the car was a manual, the problem would be masked and not noticed. If you drive like a hoon it doesn't show and pulls cleanly up to the red line. Not a good way to drive around though...

Anyway, when I picked the car up they said that they couldn't find anything wrong, again.

The annoying thing is when I get back into my 97 Getz which has the 100kw 1.6 engine and has done 186,00km, it just takes off and does exactly what it's supposed to do without a hiccup or a stutter to be seen.

Has anyone else come across anything similar as I'm losing faith..

[Phil №❶]

Diesel or petrol engine 

[Dazzler]

Hi Dave, this sort of thing is super frustrating and the dealer's response would make me really cranky. Have you tried another dealer or complained to Hyundai Australia?

[Dave M]

Tbe engine is the 110kW petrol engine.

[Phil №❶]

The worst kind of fault is the intermittent one that techies can't find or duplicate.

What you describe is sounds like lack of combustion in the engine, either on 1,2,3 or all cylinders. This can only be caused by Lack of Spark or lack of fuel or a computer error in the ecu, which starves the injectors briefly. You say it works ok if you drive it hard. I have some guesses that just might be worth checking.

• The driving hard effort, causes the engine to flex in it's mounts due to torque reaction and just possibly, a wire is forced to remain connected and provide power. Under more sedate conditions the wire may be disconnecting causing the interruption of combustion.
• Fuel may possibly be contaminated with water. I'd put a cup of metho in the fuel. This will emulsify any water into a suitable mix with the petrol and be burned and eliminated. Change your fuel supplier if this is the case.

So, you can spend some time checking every plug in the engine bay for looseness or breakage.
Check your battery voltage, too with the engine running. It should be around 14 + volts. If it's not then your regulator or battery may be faulty causing low voltage and consequently not enough spark for your plugs.

Wipe all the high tension leads to the plugs / coil. Make sure they are dust free as shorts can occur. A good test is to run the engine in complete darkness. You may see a tell tale spark leakage. Be careful not to wear any loose clothing and definitely no touching while the motor is running and in darkness.

That's about all you can do, the rest would be up to Hy to use their equipment to find a fault code etc.

I would suggest taking Dazz's advice and try a different dealer. Speak to the service manager first so they know what they're looking for.

I would suggest that they measure the resistance of the high tension wires as they can sometimes be faulty. To suppress radio interferance, they are silicon leads and easily broken, unlike wire.

Good luck.

[eye30]

Our 2014 MY i30 Elite manual has just returned from it's 2nd annual service with a clean bill of health.


I think that if the car was a manual, the problem would be masked and not noticed.

Please clarify as you say manual then seem to indicate not.

[Dave M]

Quite right, my mistake.

What I meant to say was that if it was an auto the problem would be masked. 

Personally I think it's an engine management/ emissions issue.

In the overrun the fuel is cut to reduce emissions and then when the throttle is opened fuel flow is restored. For whatever reason it's not happening as it should leading to the rough running.

I don't think Hyundai actually know how to fix it. There are no fault codes so the computer says no and that's it.

That's progress...

[cruiserfied]

Im tending to think that maybe the hesitation your experiencing is the normal feel of the fly-by-wire throttle. What leads me to this is you said your Getz just up and goes which is cable throttle and more responsive.
This is  exaggerated in a manual vehicle as you suggested.

But i dont know your driving style. I think the best thing to do would be drive another petrol manual and compare.

[Shambles]

There are no fault codes ...

Did you check for these or did you leave it to your mechanic?

I found a "pending code" when the Toyota dealer said there were none stored - via an Android phone.

[Aye30]

It sounds identical to a problem I had on our 2.0l petrol fd i30. It turned out to be carbon tracking on one spark plug and lead.
It gave no error codes until it got so bad that it stalled and the check engine light flashed. That allowed me to pinpoint the cylinder to look at. On mine it hesitated until it reached a very specific rpm, then it was all fine. At idle it would sound smooth for a while, but occasionally it would stutter. Inside the spark plug lead cap there was a slight change of colour down one side, and on the spark plug itself was a faint black line down the ceramic part. The dealer couldn't find the problem, They wanted to clean out the fuel tank ($400)- it wasn't that bad enough to give a code, at that time. I believe running the engine in the dark would have shown the problem up, as suggested earlier, but you may need to remove some of the plastic cover ( to be able to see the spark earthing to the cyl head.) Mine started two months after they changed the spark plugs and inspected the leads. Just unlucky I guess. I hope you find and fix your fault as my car ran like a dream after.

[Dave M]

Thanks for your replies.

The fly by wire comment is interesting but I've driven many fly by wire cars, both petrol and diesel, and never noticed anything like this. The Getz is cable operated as someone said but the 1.6 engine is so much better than the later engine despite only having 100bhp. It revs as sweet as a nut to the red and will pull from 1000rpm in any gear. No chance in the i30!

We really like the i30 and it's a shame we have this issue. My wife mainly drives the car but doesn't notice the shudder but has commented on how sluggish it is at times.

The dealer has said we can take it in and go for a drive with their foreman and show him the problem but they don't open on a Saturday and when we finish work they've closed...

[Dazzler]

Definitely not right because my Wife's previous Manual 2.0 Petrol CW was very responsive. She missed the zippiness for ages when we switched her to the 1.6 GDi Tourer. The 2.0 petrol engine in that model isn't a bad motor by most peoples reckoning although the 1.6 Diesel is so sweet it gets most of the praise.

Sounds like it is either the plugs or leads or both.   

[elantraelite]

The FD i30 had the 2.0 Beta engine, I had the same engine in my 05 Elantra. One of the best cars I have had. Quick and quite responsive. (I got that car up to 210km on a back road back in the day when I drove like an idiot) The Beta engine is Hyundai's second engine they ever produced that was first seen in the J3 Elantra/Lantra.

The 2.0 Theta in the GD i30 I thought would have alot more get up and go.

[CraigB]

The FD i30 had the 2.0 Beta engine, I had the same engine in my 05 Elantra. One of the best cars I have had. Quick and quite responsive. (I got that car up to 210km on a back road back in the day when I drove like an idiot) The Beta engine is Hyundai's second engine they ever produced that was first seen in the J3 Elantra/Lantra.

The 2.0 Theta in the GD i30 I thought would have alot more get up and go.

Technically the 2ltr Theta should have more get up and go but with all the exhaust emissions clogging up the system they'll more than likely feel slightly more sluggish.

[ssaini]

Hi Dave I have the exact same problem on my 2014 Hyundai i30 Manual Elite (Petrol 1.8) . I bought the car in oct 2015 and it was a floor demo. 2014Dec Build. Anyways, on my first service (1500 kms inspection) I told the guys about this issue and they said they could not find any problems or error codes and on top of that when they test drove the car they could not replicate it. Well I still have the problem and it's really annoying and dangerous at the times when you wanna take off quickly at round abouts. The car hesitates and then takes off. Mine happens only in the 1st and 2nd gear. Once it gets going then there is no problem.

[Dave M]

Sounds familiar...

When I mentioned at the 1st service I was told that yes they could see the problem but that they all do that... At the recent service they couldn't find it!

I'v been concentrating on it and it only happens when going from overrun on a closed throttle back onto the gas at low ish revs. If I drive it harder it's not there.

[ssaini]

I am a bit disappointed with this and also I mentioned to them on the first service that the AM reception is pathetic and he agreed to that and said nothing can be done regarding that as in country the AM reception is bad anyways and on top of that the antenna is small and not strong in i30. So basically a design fault. I can live without AM as I hardly listed to radio or for that matter music. But the most frustrating thing was that I realized only after couple of days that they did not put the trim back properly and there were few scratches. I push it pack in place but was extremely disappointed. I wonder where are the work ethics these days. If the person who took the trim out to check the radio connections were to work on his brand new car, would he have done a shoddy job as he did with mine..?
I have already put mine for sale after 2100 kms 

[rustynutz]

I was gonna suggest that you could replace the standard radio aerial but if you're selling your car i guess it's a bit pointless... 

As for the shoddy job and damage, why not just take it back and complain? Selling your car does seem a bit drastic... 

[ssaini]

No I am not really enjoying the way car drives. I need a little bit more oomph. If I am able to sell the car then probably will go with SP25. Regarding the shoddy job, there is no point in taking it up with them now as I know that I'll get standard replies. "Oh we are sorry to hear that, but we guarantee that all the jobs done here are upto the highest standards and as for the scratch marks these are not done by us ..blah blah blah.."  Honestly I do not have the time and energy to do this but next time (if there is any I'll inspect the car thoroughly before taking it back from servicing. But the whole point is that I need to put my mind and energy into some exercise that should not be the owner's responsibility. But I guess this is the norm today.

[ibrokeit]

I was gonna suggest that you could replace the standard radio aerial but if you're selling your car i guess it's a bit pointless... 

For anyone one else who might stumble across this... the 'wasp'/'stinger' aerial (as opposed to a shark-fin) should screw out of it's base (page 4-140 of user manual).  Though the i30 being discussed is a GD (body type) and the manual shows only one aerial - the FD manual showed an alternative aerial to the short 'wasp'/'stinger' aerial.  Unknown if they are interchangeable.

[rustynutz]

I fitted one of these: Rubber Black Replacement BEE Sting Aerial Antenna Mast Hyundai I30 | eBay
I don't think it will fit the GD though... 

[CraigB]

I fitted one of these: Rubber Black Replacement BEE Sting Aerial Antenna Mast Hyundai I30 | eBay
I don't think it will fit the GD though... 

Rusty, It should still fit the GD as mine is a 5mm thread.

[ibrokeit]

I fitted one of these: Rubber Black Replacement BEE Sting Aerial Antenna Mast Hyundai I30 | eBay
I don't think it will fit the GD though... 

This item seem to fit - 16'' Whip Mast Aerial CAR TOP Roof Radio FM AM Signal Booster Antenna Amplifier | eBay - well, at least, the vendor claims it does via. the ebay make/model/year (etc.) checker for an automotive items.

[CraigB]

I fitted one of these: Rubber Black Replacement BEE Sting Aerial Antenna Mast Hyundai I30 | eBay
I don't think it will fit the GD though... 

This item seem to fit - 16'' Whip Mast Aerial CAR TOP Roof Radio FM AM Signal Booster Antenna Amplifier | eBay - well, at least, the vendor claims it does via. the ebay make/model/year (etc.) checker for an automotive items.

Same aerial here 16" Roof Mast Whip Fuba Screw ON AM FM Antenna FOR Toyota BMW VW Lexus QJ2F | eBay but only $2.56

[Dave M]

But will it solve my rough running problem...?

[ibrokeit]

But will it solve my rough running problem...?

Probably not! Ooops sorry! There is a 'banner smiley' for what just happened (radio) 

As for your issue - I can't offer much help... being my i30 is an FD, so has an actual accelerator cable, and auto.

One thing I have noticed is mine seems to noticeably 'pull' better on "cold" (that is relative being QLD up here) nights - but don't know if your issue sees such variation.

Another thing, I am pretty sure it was my i30 (and not my previous car - which was manual), was noticing a distinct power drop during acceleration right after starting off (i.e. car got rolling) if application of accelerator was too aggressive.  However that was just for a second or two and it hasn't seemed to do that in a good while now - maybe something got fixed (by being disturbed/reseated or scheduled replacement) or updated during a service.

Not sure if any of that helps really - but a couple of data points.

[rustynutz]

I fitted one of these: Rubber Black Replacement BEE Sting Aerial Antenna Mast Hyundai I30 | eBay
I don't think it will fit the GD though... 

Rusty, It should still fit the GD as mine is a 5mm thread.

Thanks Craig, I was only going by the vendor's model checker thingy which came up with "this part isn't compatible with Hyundai i30 2014 GD [2011-2015] Hatchback 1.8."... 

Sorry about the continued   

[Surferdude]

But will it solve my rough running problem...?

Probably not! Ooops sorry! There is a 'banner smiley' for what just happened (radio) 

As for your issue - I can't offer much help... being my i30 is an FD, so has an actual accelerator cable, and auto.

One thing I have noticed is mine seems to noticeably 'pull' better on "cold" (that is relative being QLD up here) nights - but don't know if your issue sees such variation.

Not sure if any of that helps really - but a couple of data points.

It's always been my experience that petrol engines seem to run better/ smoother during cool nights.

[eyeeye]

Like Dave M - I have the same problem of (or least extremely similar) "Rough Running" on my 2010 FD I30 petrol manual wagon.  Following the last service (90K) it feels like either the fuel is being blocked / the engine is missing / or that it's in too low a gear for the speed;  it really is horrible to drive.  The rough running was not happening prior to the last service.  After taking it back to the supplier I was told "the rear engine mount was worn and needed replacement".    Now I'm no mechanic, but I cant see how a worn ENGINE MOUNT can be responsible for the way my car is performing.  On challenging the provider of this news, he went on to say that by fixing the engine mount all my troubles with the rough running would go away. Somehow, I'm not convinced.   Does anyone have any thoughts re the validation of replacing the engine mount to fix my rough running?

[Asterix]

Hi eyeeye

 

Strange if it only showed up after the service.

Make a deal with him; If the new engine mount doesn't cure the problems, you don't pay anything.