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Gearbox "grabby/notchy" following clutch repair

marabak · 17 · 5652

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Offline marabak

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Hey

For some back history, see :link: Mechanic suggested my "clutch is slipping" but the TL:DR is that I had a replacement clutch fitted to my car. Since then, it has been difficult to get into certain gears in certain situations.

Previously, before the new clutch, I would struggle to get into 1st (with clutch fully depressed) unless I was at an absolute stop. I read somewhere that this was common and something to do with the synchromesh, and I got used to it (dropping into 2nd and raising the clutch unless I was absolutely stationary).

Now, since the saga of my new clutch, it is very difficult to get the gear lever into position in probably around 75% of gear changes. This is predominately for 1st and 2nd, although 3rd and 4th are nowhere near as smooth as they were. Virtually every time I go into reverse and then try to go into 1st, I can't force the lever into place. Generally, I can solve the issue by "double declutching" (? - raising the clutch up in neutral and then pressing it down again), despite the fact that just leaving the clutch depressed for longer doesn't help*. This allows me to get into gear, but it still requires a bit of brute force. There is no crunching sound however, and once in gear it is fine.

My questions are thus:
Could the change in clutch be responsible?
Could the act of changing the clutch has caused these problems?
Could this be totally coincidental timing of another issue? If so, what is the issue now?
Any theories on solving it?

I am planning on taking the car back in tomorrow at the mechanics request so that they can reassess the clutch after a period of bedding in, so I shall mention the gearbox to them, I just want to go in armed with some knowledge at least :D

Thank you

Edit: I should probably add, the probably seems to be independent of the temperature, i.e. I had the same difficulties leaving home as well as after an hours trip on the motorway.


*I'm far from an expert on the mechanics of cars, but my reasoning for this is that the rotations of the various bits would fall into sync if either the car was in neutral or the clutch depressed.
« Last Edit: January 11, 2016, 13:32:35 by marabak »


Offline Shambles

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Sounds to me like the gear change cables are too tight.
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Offline AlanHo

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My 2009 FD i30 diesel gear change was always slightly notchy for 1st and 2nd - but 3 to 5 were very smooth.

The symptoms you describe could possibly be due to clutch drag due to it not releasing completely.

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Offline marabak

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They did claim to fit a slave cylinder (I'm sure they said fit, and not replace, so I'm not sure if there is supposed to be one) and according to this link (http://www.motoringassist.com/motoring-advice/car-maintenance/engine-and-transmission/guide-clutch-faults-part-1/), air in the cylinders can cause clutch drag.

I'll mention both possibilities to them tomorrow, hopefully it is an easy fix :D


Offline Asterix

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They did claim to fit a slave cylinder (I'm sure they said fit, and not replace, so I'm not sure if there is supposed to be one) and according to this link (:link: Guide to Clutch Cable Faults | Clutch Drag Causes | GEM), air in the cylinders can cause clutch drag.

I'll mention both possibilities to them tomorrow, hopefully it is an easy fix :D

The slave cylinder is located in front of the gearbox, so it's a replacement, not an add-on...  :mrgreen:
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Offline marabak

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Quick update: Halfords said that they had tried many ways of bleeding the system to no avail, so they have ordered a new master cylinder which they will fit hopefully in the next few days. No charge, so can't complain (yet) :D


Offline Dazzler

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 :eek: :goodjob:
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Online Surferdude

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Cruiserfied may have more detail but it seems to me I'd be wanting the selector cables adjusted after the clutch was replaced.
If  for no other reason than they may have been way out of adjustment beforehand but not obvious due to the clutch issue.
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Offline crayman

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Your original posts mentions a slipping clutch but also having to pump up the clutch to get the car in/out of gear.
So you had 2-problems, a worn out clutch (slipping) and a hydraulic problem.
The clutch has been replaced but your hydraulic problem still remains.
Slave cylinder's are usually an easy one to diagnose as they'll have fluid leaking.
Master cylinder is a bit harder as it can leak internally which sounds like what yours is doing.
Looks like they'll fix the car eventually and you'll have everything renewed so she should be good for a long time.
It's also worth noting, hydraulics hate cold weather. The seals contract and an "iffy" master cylinder that was working OK in summer will fail first  cold morning in winter.
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Offline marabak

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Your original posts mentions a slipping clutch but also having to pump up the clutch to get the car in/out of gear.
So you had 2-problems, a worn out clutch (slipping) and a hydraulic problem.
Hi Crayman, I don't know if you are confusing me with another poster (I think a few similar threads have popped up at the same time), but my gear issue has only come about since the clutch change. Prior to that, the only issue I had with my gears was being unable to get into first unless I was at a complete stop, which other people suggested was a synchro-related and normal. Currently, I am struggling to change certain gears regardless of my speed, and in fact the worse one (i.e. most frequent) is going from Reverse to 1st, so my car is completely stationary at that point.

Master cylinder is a bit harder as it can leak internally which sounds like what yours is doing.
Hopefully that will be sorted today with a new master cylinder then :D

It's also worth noting, hydraulics hate cold weather. The seals contract and an "iffy" master cylinder that was working OK in summer will fail first  cold morning in winter.
Surprisingly, we are having a very mild winter here at the moment. I can only actually recall one semi-frosty day. I didn't notice any issues last winter, but I'll keep an eye on how it behaves if/when it gets colder.


Offline marabak

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So I got my car back this morning, and it is much much better after the new master cylinder. The bite point has raised up to a reasonable level, and it's much smoother at getting into gear :D


Offline Asterix

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So I got my car back this morning, and it is much much better after the new master cylinder. The bite point has raised up to a reasonable level, and it's much smoother at getting into gear :D

Great news..  :goodjob2:
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Offline Dazzler

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Offline ibrokeit

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:goodjob :

Yeah but that wasn't  :P :lol:    :rofl:
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Offline ibrokeit

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 :goodjob:

(Helping @Dazzler say what he means) and  :wts:

Nice to hear it is working properly now.
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Offline Dazzler

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