[nikkon22]

Hi,

I've read all of the posts i can find on the ESC light staying on and how it can be a number of issues (brake light switch etc) but none have the answer I'm looking for.

I have an issue with the ESC light staying on (until i turn the car off) with a i30 2011 i just bought 2nd hand.

It seems to come on if i drive down the same hill near my house (it's a steady decline at the end of a freeway - travelling 80/km). Hyundai service center have replaced the ABS unit (due to a recall) and the brake light switch but now they are telling me it is happening because i am braking too much coming down the hill ("that i must be riding the brakes").

Wondering if anyone has experienced this issue from braking too much?...The manual says it should not stay on unless there is a fault.. Hyundai never mentioned that braking too much could be the cause until the 3rd time i contacted them.

History run down if you need more info;

20th March - I buy this car from 2nd hand dealer (Still has new car warranty until Aug 30th)

21st - While searching Hyundai page I see there is a recall for the ESC unit Hyundai?Hyundai i30 (FD) ESC Module. So i ring my local service center and book it in to be replaced.

22nd - While driving down the hill i notice the ESC light for the first time. I gather its because of the recall notice and it will be fixed after the ESC unit is replaced.

23rd - I take the i30 into the service center to get the ESC replaced. I tell them the ESC light came on and they say it should not be staying on and the replacement should fix the issue. (When i pick it up they said they replaced the whole ABS unit which they say the ESC is part of).

24th - I drive down the same hill and the ESC light comes back on. I ring the service centre who tell me to bring it back in. They say the error code is relating to the brake light switch being faulty so they replace it.

25th - I drive down the same hill and the ESC light comes back on again. I ring the service center and they now say that its because I'm braking too much going down the hill ("that i must be riding the brakes") and that the i30 is meant to display the ESC light and record the error in this case. I ask them why they didnt tell me this the last 2 times i brought it in and they dont have an answer but say there is nothing else to be done. They tell me this over the phone and they have not read the error codes since before they replaced the brake light switch.

I would have no issues if this is how the car is designed and meant to function it just seems dodgy to me how hyundai service center didnt tell me this is the cause until the 3rd time i took the car back for the issue so now i dont really trust them

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[PhireSideZA]

Hi Nikkon22 and welcome to the forum!

Quick question - are your tyre pressures correct all around?

What I have found with my FD is that if one tyre is slightly under pressure compared to the rest, my ESP OFF light comes on probably due to the less inflated tyre having a smaller circumference than the correctly inflated tyres throwing out the system. I then have to turn the car off and back on again for it to extinguish.

It could be worth checking.

Let us know how it progresses

[h20melon]

We had a bit of rain here in Wollongong last week and I noticed the light staying on once the car has started.  It would turn off after about 60 seconds, but when I press the ESP OFF button, nothing happened.  I was thinking it could be moisture from the rain or some water I might have driven through.

Thanks for pointing out the recall as this will be another thing to add to my list when I take my car in for warranty issues in a couple of weeks

[Asterix]

Hi nikkon22

 

I fail to see how braking too much would ever cause the ESP light to light up.. I've never had the ESP light on when towing 1400 kg caravan in the mountains....

As you still have warranty on the car tell them you expect them to solve it and not come up with anymore bad excuses. If they're not up to the job find another dealer.

[nikkon22]

Thanks for the help I will check the tyre pressure today and if they are ok i will speak with hyundai again.

[PhireSideZA]

Thanks for the help I will check the tyre pressure today and if they are ok i will speak with hyundai again.

Cool

I'll explain my reasoning for my previous post:

I suspect maybe your front tyres are flexing under the weight of the car on the long downhill, causing their circumference to shrink which in turn causes them to rotate faster than your unladen rear tyres, which makes the traction control system think your front tyres are spinning faster than the rear ones. Because this happens over the course of a long stretch of road, is it possible that the traction control system thinks this is a malfunction and turns itself off and displays the ESC light as what is happening to you?

That's about the only thing I can think of. Try going down the hill in reverse and see what happens

[Dazzler]

Welcome Nick,

We don't call him Phunny Phil for nothing.

Sounds like BS from the dealer (Phil might be on to something with the tyre pressures)

[nikkon22]

thanks, the right back tyre was a little low but havent driven down the hill yet. Hopefully it fixes the issue

[ibrokeit]

 

I agree with Dazz - sounds suspiciously like the dealer doesn't know, or maybe even understand what you are describing, and doesn't want to be bothered looking into it (to confirm) and/or figuring it out.   Much easier to fob you off saying it is what you are doing, because you are a customer so you won't know better.   I suppose there is a chance it is something you are doing, *however*...

I am pretty sure if it was driver related issue, or caused only by driver action, then others would have had it already (you can't be the only one with a long steady decline at 80km/h - even if you were, and I am *not* saying you do, riding the brakes you would surely not be the only one to have done so) and complained about it.

So I think what @wabbit16 could be very valid - very likely a small error over some distance would cause fault-detection to activate, while not causing the actual stability system to activate prior to fault detection.   It might very well give a starting point to discovering what is happening - such as tyre flexing.

Just a silly question - what pressure do you have your tyres at?  IIRC a number on the forum use 32-36 all around (the same pressure all round that is).


For the regulars - didn't we have a post something similar to this a number of months ago... but it was to do with a long sweeping curve or something that was the road that caused the issue when it occurred?  Did we learn what the cause was in that case?   Just thinking maybe it is the same/similar in cause.  I seem to recall they brake switch was involved or suspected - however with this one the dealer/service has already done that (or said they did at least).

[Dazzler]

I might have a hunt later Gareth (rings a bell) 

[ibrokeit]

Silly thought - might work, or might not, actually it might not be feasible - just don't know.

IIRC the Cruise Control de-activates when the breaks are touched, I don't think it deactivates (but not certain it doesn't) if ESP/ESC activates.  Now maybe it gets disabled if/when ESP/ESC faults (no idea on this one) - does anyone know?

Anyway my thought was this... if you can (i.e. it is safe, etc.) activate CC and see if it deactivates at anytime during the descent (at least prior ESP/ESC light coming and staying on) when it shouldn't have... e.g. when no brakes were applied.   If it does when you aren't touching the brakes (and assuming it doesn't if ESP/ESC activates - which I am also assuming is not occurring) then that could indicate faulty input is being seen (for example activation of brakes when they really aren't).

[Dazzler]

Cruise won't stay on if you are touching the brakes (unless you have a Toyota Camry from America that hasn't had the fix)

[ibrokeit]

Cruise won't stay on if you are touching the brakes (unless you have a Toyota Camry from America that hasn't had the fix)

Exactly! And exactly why I suggested what I did - if the brakes are being touched, or more to the point... the car THINKS they are being touched - then CC will turn off... if it does and the brakes weren't being touched then that points towards bad switch or other erroneous input.   Unless I am totally mistaken - which I probably am.


BTW @Dazzler - I think it was this one...  EPS FAULT?

[nikkon22]

So i went to try the cruise control down the hill today only to relise that the cruise control isnt working since they replaced the brake light switch. (Set light flashes on and off). I just saw the other thread about some replacement brake light switches causing this issue. So i will be ringing the service center today to get this looked at :\

[ibrokeit]

So i went to try the cruise control down the hill today only to relise that the cruise control isnt working since they replaced the brake light switch. (Set light flashes on and off). I just saw the other thread about some replacement brake light switches causing this issue. So i will be ringing the service center today to get this looked at :\

I hope, just for completeness that you try it on flat road to; and also ensuring you touched the brakes once since moving off after start before engaging it - apparently it won't engage if it hasn't seen the brakes touched once.  Which makes sense being it dis-engages on seeing the brake pushed (AFAIK the switch has two separate contacts - one for the brake circuit; the other for electronics to detect it).  Mostly just in case they keep with their 'it is your driving' spiel.   In any case CC doesn't dis-engage if the vehicle goes faster (well my 2010 doesn't) - which I assume is to do with the fact on petrol FD the CC drives a cable, which interfaces with the accelerator cable via a mechanical interface.

Anyway once you get this sorted - i.e. issue no longer occurring and CC working again.   I would be very tempted to find another Hyundai service centre (if that is feasible); and also maybe contact Hyundai Australia and ask if there are any outstanding campaigns on your car (will need VIN most likely) - there shouldn't be... being you say you have the OEM warranty until Aug 30th (to keep it valid requires regular log-book servicing)... but never hurts to check.

I am just a little sus of them based on what you are saying.  I mean a BIG thing (to me) is they didn't have you bring it in for double checking, and/or someone go for a drive with you to see what you are doing, after all post ESC recall work - the phone call where you got told it is how you are driving was only the second instance of you raising the problem remained, the first instance being they reported they replaced the switch.  It isn't like this is the 3 or 4th time you are reporting it (without you being able prove it; after they haven't been able to observe it or make it manifest).  As for the double-checking, or rather lack of it...

Presumably the i30 got a brake switch replacement when that campaign originally happened a number of years ago (2012 maybe?).  Then, at some-point, that switch has failed (by their own statement - the code shows the switch is faulty... but seemingly wasn't picked up when they tested the ESC/ABS after replacement), they fitted a replacement and that too is faulty (seemingly at fitting).   Now it is possible to have faulty switches - but surely after they did the switch replacement which is a well known issue they could have tested the fix by a quick drive and/or other methods.   Which leads me to wonder - is it possible the faulty switch didn't actually get replaced?  It could have been accidental if it didn't, it happens, but not the best if so (which would only be worse if, for some reason, your i30 never got the campaign replacement in the first place).  It is a possibility until re-checked and proven no fault exists - which they didn't do...

The fact the CC isn't working helps your 'case' and, assuming they actually look at it instead of fobbing you off, give them another opportunity to fix it all.

BTW if you can get a photo your current brake switch while still fitted - I think one or more of the forum members can ID if it is an 'old' or 'new' one.

Anyway, without proof from faulty parts being replaced...             See... see... it is how YOU are driving 

[Dazzler]

They may have replaced the brake light switch with the wrong one. I seem to recall there are two different ones. 

[ibrokeit]

They may have replaced the brake light switch with the wrong one. I seem to recall there are two different ones. 

Two different ones post-fix (the big brake light switch campaign couple of years back)?  Or two different ones - one pre that fix; the other post that fix?   I would really hope all of the pre-fix switches were returned to Distribution centre and destroyed/junked, etc. to ensure the fault would not come back by use of old stock - however I have no knowledge in such regards.

[Dazzler]

They may have replaced the brake light switch with the wrong one. I seem to recall there are two different ones. 

Two different ones post-fix (the big brake light switch campaign couple of years back)?  Or two different ones - one pre that fix; the other post that fix?   I would really hope all of the pre-fix switches were returned to Distribution centre and destroyed/junked, etc. to ensure the fault would not come back by use of old stock - however I have no knowledge in such regards.

Not sure of the exact detail, but I seem to recall some members cars had to have the fix applied twice. I think they may have had a faulty one replaced with a new faulty original design while the modified one was still being distributed. 

[Surferdude]

Yeah Dazz.
I was one of them.
First replacement wouldn't allow the CC to work. Apparently the supplier didn't know it was to go on cars with factory CC fitted.

[Phil №❶]

From memory, I think the CC brake switch was different to non CC. 

[Dazzler]

Thanks guy, yes that was it (CC issue) 

[nikkon22]

Took it back to the service center. They said they installed the wrong brake light switch because "they saw my car was a SX model which doesnt have cruise control by default, so they put the non-cc brake light switch in". eg. they didnt look to see if it had cruise control to begin with...

So cruise control is working now and i've driven down the hill once so far with no ESC light issue but may be too early to say its fixed as it wasn't happening everytime.

[beerman]

Now it is fixed....Find a new dealer 

[Dazzler]

What he said. Sounds very promising  ( the club's covered its membership fees already!)

[PhireSideZA]

I'd hazard a guess and say your issue should be sorted!

Now...as beerman said...time to find a new dealer...

[ibrokeit]

I said it in my big long posting and they said it just now... so  you may want to find another service center for future services (at least till OEM warranty runs out) and/or work.

Nice the issue apparently is fixed and oh yeah BTW

They told you so...  It WAS your driving....   

Yeah Right!

[Surferdude]

Pretty poor form when they get in the car to drive it and don't notice the factory fitted CC controls on the steering wheel.

I agree. Time for a new dealer.

[nikkon22]

I've now driven down the hill around 10 times and ESC light hasn't come one at all, so it looks like it was because of the brake light switch!

I will be taking it to another dealer if i need anything in the future. Thanks alot for the help people

[Dazzler]

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk