i30 Owners Club

Gear Change Problems

Raider · 7 · 5341

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Offline Raider

  • 1st Gear
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    • Posts: 3

    • au Australia
Hi all,

Have a 2010 Diesel i30. Have read a number of posts over a number of years and some of them fit with some of my issue but not completely so thought I would ask! Note I am not a technical person so really looking at options to tell my mechanic who couldn't find a problem after a drive and a clutch inspection.

The issue - Inconsistently across a drive for the last few days the gear changes alter between normal and a bit stiff. It appears worse early in a drive, but sometimes its fine at the start and gets worse later. The stiffness I can live with, but the main issue is that occasionally, I can't change from 1 to 2. To fix, I simply pull over to a complete stop and then it works fine. I haven't yet tried going into neutral or straight to 3rd on the 3 times its happened as my first reaction is to get out of the way of the cars behind and pull over.

This problem came up 3 months ago one time and then disappeared till the last few days. But now present over a few days.

There is no crunch/grind of gears and there is no obvious difference between when its going to be a tough change or a normal change. The mechanic checked the clutch and no issue. The only noise I can sometime hear is a slight mechanical whirring when it goes into gear but I don't hear it every time and sometimes I hear it when gears are fine and sometimes when not fine, so no pattern. This may be completely normal sound but I usually have music on but its been off whilst having issues.

From my reading of other posts, the normal suggestion for tightness I think would be to change the gear oil. But I hadn't read anyone failing to actually get into a gear, but there seems to be lots of comments of 1 to 2 being an issue. I suggested that to the mechanic and they weren't convinced that was the issue but would obviously do it if I wanted. They had no suggestions because when they drove it it was operating normally.

Going to monitor a few days before likely going back to mechanic - any and all suggestions appreciated! Thanks
  • 2010 Diesel Hyundai i30


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
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    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
Given your guys have ok'd oil and clutch. check the shift linkage for wear and also make sure the action on the box is correct/ no slop. One lever can be knocked during service. It manages a gate function between gears.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline sundiz

  • Technical Advisor
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    • Posts: 827

    • fi Finland
      Helsinki
How many miles does the car have? When was the transmission oil changed previously?

Does the car loose clutch fluid during time?

Other possible causes: clutch damper, clutch master/slave cylinder. You can find more topics about them with search and see if those symptons match your car.
  • i30 cw 1.6crdi -08


Offline Raider

  • 1st Gear
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    • Posts: 3

    • au Australia
Thank you both. I am not sure when oil was last changed but the mechanic didn't think it was an issue but am tempted to ask them again.

Car is pretty low KM for age at just under 100K km.

Shift linkage is a good idea to check, unsure if they checked yesterday. They weren't clear on what they did check other than driving it found no issues and they thoroughly checked clutch. Is it something that would give a constant problem or is it possible its an occasional problem? As I said its weird but within a drive it can alternate between ok and not.

Never had any issues with clutch or fluid levels from service history. Clutch was examined in detail yesterday and no issues.
  • 2010 Diesel Hyundai i30


Offline sundiz

  • Technical Advisor
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    • Posts: 827

    • fi Finland
      Helsinki
My personal experience with Hyundai gear boxes is that the 1-2 gear change is a bit different when compared to other cars. Getz transmission was notorious with 1-2 change. Linkage and transmission oil had to be in good shape to work properly. Even them being in tip top shape it is still not fast change when compared to other transmissions. Transmission oil change is fairly cheap thing to do if you can DIY. Oil costs about 30 dollars. Of course it will become more expensive if you need to pay to a mechanic...

I change my transmission oil every 60tkm/3 years. It is much lower value than hyundai recommends but even with that time there is a noticeable difference with new vs old oil gear change.
  • i30 cw 1.6crdi -08


Offline Raider

  • 1st Gear
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    • Posts: 3

    • au Australia
Thanks - have just emailed mechanic to ask whether they checked the gear shift linkage and the oil (I will also check my log book tonight). Its unclear besides the clutch what they did check from my receipt. I may just book in the oil change anyway - I think I could probably do it but I haven't done it before so I may just pay them the $240 AUD to do it...
  • 2010 Diesel Hyundai i30


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
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    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
Just remembered there is a lifting bracket that can be accidentally bent into the path of one lever on the gearbox.
If your engine mounts are tired, the rocking of the power train ( during acceleration and on slopes) combined with linkage slop could be a contributing factor.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


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