[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

Hi all,

This week I bought my first ever Hyundai and am currently (so far) very happy with it (See signature for model) and I was hoping you guys could help me sort out some of the issues I'm having.

I've already tried to look up below issues, but can't seem to find an answer unfortunately.

• The car came with 2 keys, central locking, but no remote.
  I know having a remote is an option, but I would like to build in the remote (I've done this before with a Peugeot 306 from 1995), but I can't seem to find the correct wiring diagram.
  Also, is there any sort of receiver in the keys themselves, which would disable the starting of the engine?
• The parking brake lever is very lose the first 80% of motion.
  I've diagnosed this to the rear left wheel/parking break assembly, where the lever (marked in yellow in attached picture) doesn't want to go back to it's original position.
  After trying to "break it loose" a bit with a hammer and screwdriver, it's a bit looser, but still far from what it should be (still keeps being stuck)
  Is this a common issue?
• I'm looking for a new rubber, which goes around this lever (also marked in yellow in picture), but can't seem to find a parts number for this.
  Does someone have a parts number for this part? (aftermarket is fine)

Thanks for any help in advance

[sundiz]

1. There is immobilizer chip inside the key. That needs to be near the ignition lock to disactivate immobilizer when startin the car. If you change the key to new housing, you need to take the chip also and glue it inside new keyhousing.

The central locking is controlled by the BCM. I am not 100% sure, but I guess you would need some sort of coding to activate the remote for your car. With after market unit you might just pass the BCM and connect after market unit to door lock wires.

2. Common issue where there is salt and snow. You can buy linkage, or take the old one out. They cost like 5€ in korea, but due pandemic shipping is expensive. I found it from local store for 20€. Most likely it will need a bit of hammering to get it taken to parts: Hook, housing and the pin. Then wire brush and rust remover. I blued the metal parts after cleaning and put back together. Just a hint of grease to the pin. Excessive grease will just collect brake dust, and it will be stuck soon again.

3. I have not found part number for that rubber. I would order them also, if I knew the part number.

[BrendanP]

I've taken that 58257B lever apart, cleaned off the rust and scale, apply a bit of grease to the pivot pin, put it back together and it should be fine. Apparently, an aluminium-based grease is best. It shouldn't pick up too much dust inside the drum because the brake shoe linings should see little wear.

Take care not to rip the rubber boot when pulling the lever away from the brake back-plate. If the lever has been stuck for a while the brake lining may have worn away and also worn a groove in the drum, so consider replacing the shoes and discs.

After adjusting the handbrake at the wheels using the hole in the disc, adjust the tensioner nut between the fronts seats so it requires 22kg force to pull the handbrake lever to 7 clicks. With the handbrake on, the equalising bar to which the handbrake cables are attached should be perpendicular to the threaded rod. If you ever notice the handbrake suddenly becoming slack, take a look at the equalising bar, it will probably be at an angle. The side which is closest to the front of the car indicates that the handbrake lever on that side has stuck again.

[sundiz]

It shouldn't pick up too much dust inside the drum because the brake shoe linings should see little wear.

Brake shoes should have very little wear. Main issue is the rear disc brakes. Fine dust finds its way inside the drum. Brake dust and salty roads 

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

Thanks everyone for the replies and help.

I've ordered new (hand)brake shoes, and was hoping to be installing them this weekend (also new coolant, filters, wipers, brake fluid and a whole arsenal of smaller parts), but the parts unfortunately didn't arrive before the weekend, so I'll let you guys know somewhere this week/weekend.

Furthermore, I've not been sitting still this weekend and tackled some of the other issues.
- I've gotten rid of a lot of rust at the front suspension crossmember (mainly around the front wheels)

• switched the door locks, because the driver's side lock was not working correctly (Kept being stuck -45 degrees and could only lock because of this).
   The lock appears to already have been replaced once with a new lock, but the last locking pin is stuck and only 1 of 2 keys is (just) able to be fully inserted. This is slightly scary, because if the second lock will also fail to open the door, I'm unable to enter the car
• While doing so, I found some more things that need to be replaced (Arm bush, both sides (545842H000), ball joint), but more importantly, I noticed the plastic bottom plate bolts were all partially untightened for some reason and the plate was incorrectly mounted.
  By removing the plastic plate, I found some oil leaking out of the engine/gearbox. I wasn't able to determine the exact spot, but I'll let you guys know when I do find out.
• I'll be replacing the brake fluid and ordered new bleeding bolts. Any known issues with this process?
• Regarding adding the remote control to the car; The car doesn't seem to have an alarm (so no extra challenge to open the doors I presume) and in the electrical schematics I found out the opening/closing the doors is controlled by a relay. Can I just switch this relay with the new remote?
  I would prefer to control the doors separately, because currently the system is "stupid", as in, if 1 door is open and I try to lock the car, the other 3 doors don't care and 1 door will be kept unlocked.
  The new remote control unit can take care of this, but I would need to know which cables go to which door.
  Does someone have any clue of the wiring diagram (for the doors)?
• Also, the steel rims are very badly rusted.
  I already got rid of the rust and treated 1 side if 2 rims with rust convertor and painted them, but I also found out it's in between the tire/rim seal and this explains why I had to put quite some air in them when I bought the car (?)
  So I was thinking about getting new/other rims, but for the winter I would prefer steel rims, and I can mainly find 16 inch.
  I know the bolt pattern is: 5x114.3
  What I could find that should fit was:
  For 15 inch:
  Offset between 44 and 50 (default 47) for 5.5Jx15 inch
  
  For 16 inch:
  Offset of 50 for 6Jx16
  
  Do you guys have any experience with non factory rims?

Thanks in advance. And I'll post some pictures soon

[sundiz]

For the rims the hub diameter is also critical measurement. I think it might have been 67,1mm, but I can be wrong and mix that to some other car. You better check that first before getting any rims. If you get used ones, kia ceed uses same size rims. Some mazda 3 have same size also.

I bought 3rd set of rims from insurance companies wreckers. I think Copart owns those in some countries. Someone crashed their car during winter and set of summertyres was sold separately. Only 50€ for 4 steel rims, with almost slick tyres

[BrendanP]

When you mentioned 'new bleeding bolts' I assume you mean the bleed nipples on the brake calipers? Whenever I replace the brake fluid I first loosen off the nipples with a socket, instead of an open-ended spanner. I've never found them too tight, but that's because I change the fluid regularly. If the nipples have seized in the caliper this could be because previous owners have neglected it. Don't apply excessive force or the nipple can break off.

I replace fluid with a full litre of new fluid, and drain the old fluid into a glass jar that I mark to show the volume. I bleed the calipers in following order Rear right (150ml) - Rear left (150ml) - Front right (200ml) - Front left (200ml) - Rear right (150ml) - Rear left (150ml). This should mean there is no old fluid left in the system.

[sundiz]

For us who drive on the right  side on the road, the clutch uses same fluid as the brakes. One system where brake and clutch fluid flows. Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe right hand driving i30s had separate system for clutch fluid. Nevertheless, you want to push the old fluid out from the clutch lines also. Bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder on the front side of the manual transmission.

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

Thanks a lot for the tips, very helpful.

When I had the wheels off (checking condition of brakes and doing some rust removal and prevention, I noticed that the bleeding nipples (thanks BrendanP) were very rusty (they had a rubber cap, but mainly the hex was pretty far gone).
This is also the main reason why I'm going to replace the brake/clutch fluid.

I'll carefully spray some penetration oil on them a few days before the weekend and before attempting to loosen them I'll try to heat up the nipples a bit and do a quick prayer they won't snap...

Another update, I've come across some 15 inch steel rims + tires (195x65) from a newer hyundai  i30 in very good condition.
The rims barely have any rust and winter tires have between 7,6 and 8mm of thread left), but (there's always a but) the rims are 6Jx15 with ET of 46. Now, these are not in the official list of compatible rims, but they were too good to leave them (the tires alone were well worth the price). So I'll throw them under the car this weekend (after I fixed any remaining rust and issues which need the tires off) and let you guys know 

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

Hey all, I haven't been able to do much yet, because I'm still waiting for some parts.
I was told their warehouse robot had issues and send every item in a seperated package and shipped it. So I get 1 or 2 packages a day now...

I've fitted the 6Jx15 with ET of 46 rims with 195x65 winter tires, and these fit just fine, no issues.

I've started the "rust battle", which is happening from underneath the car and I'm about halfway there to make it less crusty.
I first brush the main rust off with a wire brush (manual), then I take a screwdriver and my cordless drill with wire brush to get as much rust off as possible.
I then treat the metal with a few coats of rust convertor and finally some bitumen spray.

Left is after and right is before



Also, I've received my central locking remote, which I'll be hooking up this weekend.
I'm assuming the locking actuators are electric and not pneumatic, does anyone know if this assumption is correct?

Also, the windshield is pretty badly damaged, which seems to be caused by an ice scraper (the scratches don't follow the movement of the wipers) and I'll be trying some glass polish to see if it improves or if I need to get another windshield 

And finally, I've polished the car (manually) and it made the car look much nicer (no pictures, sorry)

[Dazzler]

Cheers for the update. Actuators are electric. You are doing a great job. Rome wasn't built in a day.

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

I haven't been able to do much yet, because my parking brake shoes still haven't arrived yet, but, I have been able to do some maintenance work on the car and install the remote for the central door locking.

I'll add here a quick how to, on how to install this, for anyone who would also like to do this, without taking half their interior apart to figure out which cables we need and for those that aren't afraid to get some cuts on their hands 

I wasn't able to find an (English) wiring diagram for my car so in order to find the correct cables for the opening and closing for the central locking, I used the wiring that goes to the button on the driver side door, which locks and u locks the locks.
I disassembled the driver side door trimming, took out the button assembly and started probing, until I finally ended at the cable connector, which connects the door wiring harness going inside the car.

I've spitted the insulation from the 2 control wires (small green and small yellow wires) and soldered the cables on their, heading to the new control unit.
the ground is taken from one of the ground wires that attach to the frame (crimped and "eye" to the new ground wireand bolted it on the existing ground wireof the car)



The 2 control wires (small green and small yellow) are always live, so we need to connect one of them to ground to either open or close (I forgot which color does which), as mentioned earlier, the actuators are electrical and not pneumatic (pneumatic needs different wiring and longer opening time according to the new control unit)

The final spot for the new control unit (black/green box. picture taking from the drivers side floor, upwards, under the fuse box)


And as said, don't do this if you like your hands 

[Dazzler]

Thank you very much for sharing that well done. I hereby nominate you as our member of the day. Sorry no actual prize is awarded, but it's the thought that counts.. 

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

Thanks Dazzler, let there be many more valuable info from my side to come for you guys than

One other thing I forgot to mention though.
When I measured the voltage on the live wires, I only measured in between 9.8/10.8 volts, even though the battery itself obviously measured as much as it should.
How come this voltage is lower than the battery voltage?
Is there some sort of resistor of some sort to lower the voltage to about 12 volts for when the car is running? Does any of the modules have something to do with this?