i30 Owners Club

Do you have to register a new battery to the car on Hyundai's?

Muzz258 · 10 · 5149

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Offline Muzz258

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Hi

The Battery on my Daughters 2012 FD i30 is dead.  I'm about to go and change it.  On some modern cars you have to register the battery with the car so that the alternator charges it correctly.  Do you have to do this with my daughters FD?

Thanks

Murray
  • 2015 GD i30 1.6L CRDI Wagon


Offline josh1990

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I did a Century battery fitment course for my employment and have never heard of and training didnt cover such thing either.

Edit - did some googling and seems like its a thing in Euro models - interesting. That concerns me about century's training course ahha


Offline Muzz258

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Yes, I also work on BMW's and the newer ones need the battery registered to the car, but only if you change the CCA rating between batteries.

Sound like it is not something to worry about with the Hyundai i30's
  • 2015 GD i30 1.6L CRDI Wagon


Offline TerryT

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Yes, I also work on BMW's and the newer ones need the battery registered to the car, but only if you change the CCA rating between batteries.


@ Muzz258. That is a handy thing to know.  Do you know what sort of change in CCA rating would trigger an issue, either expressed as a percentage (+/- of oem) or as a CCA value?

« Last Edit: December 05, 2020, 20:04:00 by TerryT »
  • 2018 i30 PD SR Auto 1.6 Turbo Hatch (Sparkling Metal)


Offline sundiz

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Some cars required coding the information to the battery management system. Capacity (Ah) and type of battery (flooded, agm etc) affect how alternator should work.

2012 FD is not that kind of car. Easy thing to change. Does the car have start/stop? If it does have start/stop then agm battery might be recommended. Or if it still has original battery just buy same type as the original (flooded or agm).
  • i30 cw 1.6crdi -08


Offline BrendanP

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I've replaced batteries on both FD and GD cars without any issues. The main thing is to use an AGM battery if the car has auto stop-start. If you go on-line you will find manufacturers have selector guides to help pick the right battery for your car.

I changed the battery on my 2015 diesel but only because the dealer suggested the battery was starting to degrade (it was just over 3 years old). They proposed an Exide battery as a replacement but I declined it and fitted a Yuasa battery myself at less than half the cost. I kept the original Hyundai battery and lent it to someone with a 1.9 diesel Vauxhall Vectra. That battery has been in their car for over a year and is still working fine, which makes me question whether it really was degrading like the dealer claimed it was. The Yuasa failed after 6 months but was replaced under warranty.

On my 2011 diesel (without stop-start) the original battery failed after about 3 years, I then replaced with a Bosch battery (4 yr warranty). The Bosch battery started to fade after about 4 1/2 years, so changed again with a Yuasa this time.
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Offline Muzz258

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@ Muzz258. That is a handy thing to know.  Do you know what sort of change in CCA rating would trigger an issue, either expressed as a percentage (+/- of oem) or as a CCA value?

Sorry, can't remember the numbers.  I replace the battery with the same CCA and type (AGM/Flooded etc).  I don't have the software to do the battery registration and the like for like works without having to do a registration.


Thank you to all who have responded.  The battery in the FD has been replaced and all is working well.
  • 2015 GD i30 1.6L CRDI Wagon


Offline TerryT

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@ Muzz258. That is a handy thing to know.  Do you know what sort of change in CCA rating would trigger an issue, either expressed as a percentage (+/- of oem) or as a CCA value?

Sorry, can't remember the numbers. 

@ Muzz258.  No problems.  Thanks for the reply.
  • 2018 i30 PD SR Auto 1.6 Turbo Hatch (Sparkling Metal)


Offline atillanz

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Hi,
I worked as a battery contractor to the Automobile Association in NZ for 3 years and changed about 10,000 batteries. None ever needed to be trained.
BUT modern cars do have computers with volatile memories so I tried to maintain some voltage to the system while changing out the battery since this avoids trouble.

When you lose this power the car thinks that it's new and changes all it's settings to reflect this. They run like rubbish. To overcome this I found that before starting for the 1st time on a new battery that I turned the ignition on so that I had the lights on the dash. I then waited at least 90 seconds before switching the key completely off. I then started the car as normal with an almost 100% success rate.

If you don't have a proper battery pack you can use a 9v battery to hold the memory just don't turn anything on or open the doors if the roof light is set to on. It takes just a moment to flatten a 9v battery. Yes I found out the hard way.

The worst vehicle was a Landrover if you lost the memory as in addition to my 90 second work around you then had to train the windows... The windows? Why?
It took at least 3 full cycles of up and down on each individual window before they realised that they were alive. Such a waste of time.

European cars do not allow you to apply power via the cigarette lighter socket for some bizare reason that I never found out. It all would have been much simpler really.
  • I-30


Offline atillanz

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Car batteries lose their CCA rating as they age. So they slowly lose the ability to turn over your motor. Another vehicle may not need the same amount of CCA hence how your old battery can work for them.

Generally the average life of a good brand battery is 3 years. If you get more than that you're a winner. I did come across 2 Mercedes that had around 10 year old OEM batteries when I changed them. Impressive I thought.

As an aside the voltage difference between a fully charged and a flat battery is less than 1 volt. Below about 11.92V your battery is dead to your car. The lights and horn may work but she sure won't start.
  • I-30


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