Replacing brake pads and brake discs

DarraghR · **February 01, 2019, 15:35:10**

Hi guys. In the past couple of weeks there has been a strange rumbling noise coming from my car when breaking. Today I decided to remove my front right and back right wheel to have a closer inspection. The pads look like they are worn all the way down so defiantly need to replace them. Would the same be said for my discs?

I changed the rear pads on a Nissan Primera 2004 before but found it to be quite time consuming. Also run the risk of damaging my break fluid lines.

First question is how much should it cost for a garage to replace pads, discs and labor. Are the pads hard to replace myself?

Concerns with going to a garage are being overcharged and getting cheap quality parts. Few pictures below. Cheers

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

eye30 · **Reply #1: February 01, 2019, 17:05:39**

I did front pads on fd a few weeks ago.

There is a post on here with vid detailing steps.

Front brake pad renewal 2007 fd

I'm no mechanic and took me total of all of 45 minutes, including having a brew.

That included jacking up, remove wheel, take off calliper, push piston back etc etc.

Never done back but recall you have to wind piston in. One of the more able should be able to confirm.

DarraghR · **Reply #2: February 01, 2019, 17:15:56**

45 minutes is pretty good for two pads! Well coppared to what it took me to do two rear on a 2004 Primera

I do have a wind back tool for the piston. Was a nightmare on the Primera.

What kind of noise should I be hearing when either need replacing?

Thanks for the guide link. Will give it a look

eye30 · **Reply #3: February 01, 2019, 20:19:46**

Quote from: DarraghR on February 01, 2019, 17:15:56

45 minutes is pretty good for two pads! Well coppared to what it took me to do two rear on a 2004 Primera

I do have a wind back tool for the piston. Was a nightmare on the Primera.

What kind of noise should I be hearing when either need replacing?

Thanks for the guide link. Will give it a look

Sorry 40 mins after checking post from november.

And 4 pads..... 2 pair

mickd · **Reply #4: February 02, 2019, 04:56:51**

Quote from: eye30 on February 01, 2019, 20:19:46

Quote from: DarraghR on February 01, 2019, 17:15:56
45 minutes is pretty good for two pads! Well coppared to what it took me to do two rear on a 2004 Primera

I do have a wind back tool for the piston. Was a nightmare on the Primera.

What kind of noise should I be hearing when either need replacing?

Thanks for the guide link. Will give it a look

Sorry 40 mins after checking post from november.

And 4 pads..... 2 pair

And 2 brews

DarraghR · **Reply #5: February 03, 2019, 12:44:19**

Based on the pictures I provided do my discs need replacing?

sundiz · **Reply #6: February 03, 2019, 17:55:56**

You could measure the thickness of the disc. If I remember correctly new disc should be 26mm. And need replacement when 24mm. Not sure if the numbers were right but workshop manual told to replace discs when they are worn 2mm. But personally I would replace the discs also based on the pics. A visible lip on the outer side...

No need too wind the rear caliper, as the handbrake is a drum brake. Just a normal old school caliper. I believe the newer calipers, where piston needs to be turned, came with the GD model.

tw2005 · **Reply #7: February 03, 2019, 20:42:34**

I think I'd go for the total overhaul, rotors, pads and you'd be checkng the caliper guide pins, cleaning those and lubing .

For rotors I'd be looking for a pair that are treated/coated to slow down the corrosion

If you don't know what you're doing, may be worth the $ to pay someone to be safe.

DarraghR · **Reply #8: February 04, 2019, 13:45:59**

Excellent thanks guys. Will ring a few garages and see what the best price I can get with fitting. I reckon I could do it myself but it is quite time consuming for someone not experienced

sundiz · **Reply #9: February 04, 2019, 16:34:09**

Quote from: DarraghR on February 04, 2019, 13:45:59

I reckon I could do it myself but it is quite time consuming for someone not experienced

DIY. Better to spend two hours fixing your car than sitting infront of your tv or computer. It only takes blood, sweat and beers. Here is some encouragement:

Etujarru..pdf - Google Drive

eye30 · **Reply #10: February 04, 2019, 17:01:23**

Quote from: DarraghR on February 04, 2019, 13:45:59

Excellent thanks guys. Will ring a few garages and see what the best price I can get with fitting. I reckon I could do it myself but it is quite time consuming for someone not experienced

I'm not experienced and did front pair in 40 minutes.
Not done rears yet but expect may be same to hour.

Watch vid...... Very straight forward.

Cost £16 for set of pads on special, retail think circa £54.
Would expect garage to have been in region of £80 to £100.

nickcx500 · **Reply #11: February 07, 2019, 20:54:53**

what model do you have? How many miles has it done?

eye30 · **Reply #12: February 08, 2019, 10:59:42**

Fd
75k

BrendanP · **Reply #13: February 08, 2019, 19:26:41**

I measure the thickness of my discs with a micrometer, and I've always found that by the time the pads have worn down, the discs are fairly close to minimum thickness, hence I've always replaced them together. Consider changing the caliper slider pins as well. If one seizes up you'll end up wearing your new pads/discs out prematurely. Squirt some penetrating oil on the set screws holding the front discs on, and use an impact driver with a good fitting bit to get them off, the metal is really soft and once the heads get chewed up you'll have to drill them out to get the disc off. To remove the rear discs, don't forget to release the handbrake and slacken the handbrake adjuster through the rubber bung in the disc. Don't use excessive force to pull them off or you might pull the brake shoe retaining pins out through the brake backplate!

Make sure the little lever inside the rear brake that the handbrake cable pulls on moves freely. If it has seized up or is stiff, you will have to try and clean it up and apply copper or aluminium grease to the pivot points. If it does seize up, it holds the handbrake shoe rubbing against the inside of the brake drum, so the shoe lining wears out and you get a groove worn inside the drum. The handbrake lever also becomes very slack.

mickd · **Reply #14: February 08, 2019, 22:09:43**

@BrendanP
All helpful bits of info

, sounds like you're talking from experience

Paolo39 · **Reply #15: February 27, 2019, 07:15:34**

Just on the basis of changing disks and pads - I recommend finding polymer coated disks (not oiled) - they last longer.

At the time of changing my pads and disks I get only back one coated and front oiled (the supplier did not have at that moment).
The front are rusting pretty quickly. The rear rust is only visible on the surface, where pads are touching.
Everything else is still nice, after few months of salt being spread on roads in UK.

Also, if you changing disks by yourself, buy the impact screwdriver - life saver for disk holding screws.

On my I spend whole day, because I was changing also parking brake shoes and I have to clean parking brake levers sitting inside the back disks- they were rusted solid and causing my wheel to make horrible noise.

DarraghR · **Reply #16: April 18, 2019, 17:26:02**

Right so got the work done but am far from happy with the job. Can anyone tell me whats gong on in the following videos. Each wheel sounds like the pad or disc is touching off the wheel on every rotation. You may have to turn the volume up but it is noticeable.

20190418_163047 - Streamable

20190418_162454 - Streamable

20190418_161009 - Streamable

20190418_163259 - Streamable

Is this down to alignment, bolts not tightened correctly? Or maybe I need to do my kilometers for the pads to wear?

BrendanP · **Reply #17: April 18, 2019, 18:06:36**

Brake pads can rub slightly against the disc anyway, there are no springs to pull them off when you release the brake pedal. The caliper just 'relaxes' a little but can leave the pads 'feathering' against the disc. If I jack up the wheel and spin it by hand, it will stop within 2 or 3 revs. What I do after replacing discs and pads is take the car for a test drive. First thing - obviously - is to make sure the car stops when you put your foot on the brake, and stops in a straight line. Then drive for a couple of miles using the brakes as little as possible, pull over, and touch the discs to see if they're stinking hot. Be careful not to singe your fingers! If the brakes on a wheel are binding, the disc and caliper will get much hotter than the others.

Whenever I've found the brakes binding, it's due to the caliper slide pins corroding, preventing the caliper moving as it should.

DarraghR · **Reply #18: April 23, 2019, 10:33:35**

From video 4 which is my back left wheel you can see I hardly get 1 rotation of the wheel. The garage that did the job never took it for a test drive. Very lazy and unprofessional. I will bring the car back up as the job was obviously never completed correctly

tw2005 · **Reply #19: April 23, 2019, 10:44:48**

Quote from: DarraghR on April 23, 2019, 10:33:35

From video 4 which is my back left wheel you can see I hardly get 1 rotation of the wheel. The garage that did the job never took it for a test drive. Very lazy and unprofessional. I will bring the car back up as the job was obviously never completed correctly

So what's the issue with the brakes? Calipers self adjust so there's often a slight bit of drag and unless they were machined could be tiny bit of run out but not enough to feel when braking.

Is there and braking issue or vibration / pulsing when you brake?

Also with the rears , don't forget the handbrake shoes are in there as well. They also are generally just touching so that could be some of the noise.