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FD i30 Auto - Stalled while moving. Battery light on

Romen · 14 · 7814

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Offline Romen

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Hi all,

I did some searching and couldn't find much...

I turned a corner and shortly after the car stalled and wouldn't immediately start again despite cranking over. Only thing different was the battery light was on. AC was on (that's normally on) I turned the car off, waited 10 seconds, turned it on again and it started. No battery light on again. Drove another 10 minutes without issue, though I'm paranoid now haha.

Any suggestions as to what may have caused it or what i could test for? There hasn't been any recent servicing. Nothing else unusual. Kinda freaked me out :)

Car is a 2011 FD Auto Diesel SLX located in Australia. 204,000 km on the clock. No other previous issues (touch wood).

Thank you! :)


EDIT: No codes thrown.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2018, 04:37:13 by Romen »
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Offline The Gonz

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Battery light on means the car isn't generating electricity. This could point to the alternator, its belt slipping (but you'd probably hear that) or intermittent electrical connections, as in dry joints and corrosion at connectors.
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Offline Romen

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Battery light on means the car isn't generating electricity.

The light came after/during it stalled. Went off when I turned the key 'off' and other than when all the lights light up as a check, hasn't been on since.
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Offline The Gonz

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Then that's normal. The engine can't spin your alternator unless it's running. The problem may be fuel related or a host of other things until we know more.
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Offline sundiz

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How much fuel in the tank? If tank is empty and you take a fast corner the fuel line might get some air in it.
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Offline Romen

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The cause was found... It was due to the chip in my replacement key housing getting a little too far from the ignition. I replaced the key housing with a generic one about a year ago but never stuck down the chip. All good :)
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Offline tw2005

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The cause was found... It was due to the chip in my replacement key housing getting a little too far from the ignition. I replaced the key housing with a generic one about a year ago but never stuck down the chip. All good :)
That's interesting, I always thought once it accepted the ID it would be fine, thanks for the feedback
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Offline Dazzler

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The cause was found... It was due to the chip in my replacement key housing getting a little too far from the ignition. I replaced the key housing with a generic one about a year ago but never stuck down the chip. All good :)

Like Gerard says thanks for the update. Whoever worked that out did a good job. I wouldn't have thought that would be an easy thing to diagnose!  :eek:
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Offline Romen

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I have a great mechanic, who's also a great friend. Actually, it was the first thing he suggested as he remembered I did the key housing swap over. :)
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Offline tw2005

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One thing I'm curious with. Did you prove the fault by starting the car and then maybe removing the chip whilst it's running?
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Offline nzenigma

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 :groan:
One thing I'm curious with. Did you prove the fault by starting the car and then maybe removing the chip whilst it's running?

So professional :groan:

Thats what I wanted to ask   :crazy1:

stop just being curious and prove it on the taxi Gerard. :cool:
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Offline nzenigma

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sorry going to rain on the parade @Romen

@tw2005  forget the taxi  :phone1:

like you I thought the car kept running without the chip.

Itch in back memory finally came through.

About a year ago Marion delivered an FD with the key shaft still in the ignition, the fob was badly broken from it at the pivot point. Luckily fob came with the car.
 I would start the car by turning the key shaft with pliers while holding the fob against the antenna.

Had to get the fob in the right spot, after that, car would run/drive with fob no where near the ignition.

 :victory:
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Offline tw2005

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sorry going to rain on the parade @Romen

@tw2005  forget the taxi  :phone1:

like you I thought the car kept running without the chip.

Itch in back memory finally came through.

About a year ago Marion delivered an FD with the key shaft still in the ignition, the fob was badly broken from it at the pivot point. Luckily fob came with the car.
 I would start the car by turning the key shaft with pliers while holding the fob against the antenna.

Had to get the fob in the right spot, after that, car would run/drive with fob no where near the ignition.

 :victory:
@nzenigma Not this time Fella, someone else can be the Nutty Professor but I just gotta know cos i'm not buying it at this stage.

symptoms sound just like the ol mans FD which he got rid of due to the engine cut outs.



« Last Edit: January 01, 2019, 06:56:53 by tw2005 »
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Offline nzenigma

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someone else can be the Nutty Professor

 :evil: got a few to choose from. Talk in the am/ Cheers for 2019. :goodjob2:
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