[dnalor50]

...darn typos ..you know I meant 2007 focus 

[Dazzler]

...darn typos ..you know I meant 2007 focus 

We both need to FOCUS more when we type.. I make lots of typos...

[nzenigma]

you know I meant 2007 focus 

NO, we don't !  It was a Ford.

  

[Nonamesleft]

Thanks for the reply @dnalor50  it helps heaps... 😊
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
 
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*

[Surferdude]

Thanks for the reply @dnalor50  it helps heaps... 😊
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
 
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*

If they do say it's all fine, ask for a test drive in a similar car off their lot.

[dnalor50]

Thanks for the reply @dnalor50  it helps heaps... 😊
Anyway shes in the hands of Hyundai now, they're going to loom at the stereo too whilst shes in there. Be interesting to see what they say although I have a feeling they will come back saying it's all fine.
 
I think she just needs some fine tuning, hopefully they plug her in and do a few tweaks and that fixes the issue *crosses fingers*

Let us know if there is any improvement after the service. Another way to improve  highway performance is to anticipate gear changes and change down well before losing speed on approaching inclines. This needs to be done because the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.

[robnutz01]

I'd be very interested to hear what the dealer says was / is the problem.
I drive up Mt Ousley daily with no issue. (I do have the diesel though).
Hopefully all will be sorted.

[Dazzler]

I'd be very interested to hear what the dealer says was / is the problem.
I drive up Mt Ousley daily with no issue. (I do have the diesel though).
Hopefully all will be sorted.

The diesel is a different kettle of fish (much lower revs required for maximum torque) 

 the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.

That is a shame! My Wife's 2014 1.6 GDi Tourer is no racing car but by the time it had done 10,000 kilometres the gearbox has been smooth and quick to change (no baulking or grating even if hurried)

[CraigB]

 the gear change is very slow. I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.

That is a shame! My Wife's 2014 1.6 GDi Tourer is no racing car but by the time it had done 10,000 kilometres the gearbox has been smooth and quick to change (no baulking or grating even if hurried)

Same as my gearbox, changes very nicely

[nzenigma]

 I find I have to press the clutch right to the floor, move the gear stick to the point of engagement and then ease it gently into gear. If you do this on a hill you will lose lots of momentum, so its best to change down early. With the 2007 Ford Focus (not sure about the 2017 ,sadly) a cursory stab at the clutch and a quick flick of the stick was sufficient. Any "stick flicking " on the SR results in high resistance and grating gears/synchro.

Cant be right! Its 2017 not 1917, any serious review of the car would have ridiculed a gear change like that.
It sounds like you have a poorly adjusted clutch. Its not disengaging properly.

[Lakes]

a friend of mine has always complained about the 6 speed manual CRDi not being a slick shift like his MB Vito van. i think they are good just if you are used to pedigree. you might notice, not perfect. try double shuffle ( quick clutch move to neutral , then quick rev of motor clutch & shift at same time ) but normally not needed, a good gear box can flat shift fast ( throttle flat to floor hit clutch bang shift same time )

[nzenigma]

...try double shuffle ( quick clutch move to neutral , then quick rev of motor clutch & shift at same time ) but normally not needed, a good gear box can flat shift fast ...

My father had a 1937 Ford V8, he did as you describe, it was called 'double de-clutch'.
Most of those early cars only had a 3 speed gearbox and no synchromesh when dropping from 2nd to 1st gear.
 
Maybe this another 'Retro' innovation ... no syncro and the good old double D.

[Doggie 1]

I still double de-clutch at times.

[nzenigma]

I still double de-clutch at times.

Me too.  Old habits don't die. The neighbours think I'm a pervert. But I know, double de-clutching keeps me alive.
Grasps walking frame and exits left.................................................

[Nonamesleft]

Ok so update....
Wonders will never cease! Road test = all fine and plug in showed no faults. However my trusty dash cam (iroadv9 so front and rear and audio lol) shows a drive down the road and shuts off then aprx 4 min later its in the workshop so hmmmmm....

The radio was updated and seems better, hasn't frozen so theres a plus.

Currently considering my options.

And yeah my gears resist and grind if I try too shift too quick.... must be a SR thing. I do miss that about the focus, she liked to run up through the gears. My dads 01 laser SR is the same

I think the gear box is tall for the engine. A 5sp would have been better suited.

Anyway maybe time to visit another mechanic and a dyno

[Dazzler]

Is there another dealer nearby you can try? Can you find a dealer with a similar manual SR in stock you can test drive. I wish I lived closer. Like to get involved in sorting this!

[Doggie 1]

Or hire one for a day.

[Dazzler]

Unlikely to be able to find an SR for hire. Most place only rent out the 1.8 auto...

I think it has got to the stage of sending Hyundai Australia an official complaint! Say you are embarrassed to ferry people around in your $30,000 SR which is gutless with a slow and notchy gearbox...

[Doggie 1]

Yes, Hyundai Customer Service on their website.
They eventually sorted my problem.

[nzenigma]

The car was taken for a quick waltz around the block, no real road testing of your complaints.  The dash cam verifies this, even though it was conveniently turned off.

Given that you were strung out until today, the subsequent lack of time spent on your car is reason enough for complaint.
I would give Daz's advice some serious thought.

On page 1,  I pointed to a "Drive" road test, the author does not mention such poor performance or crunching gears.
Nor does another tester, who simply mentions an indistinct clutch position.
It would be worth an email to both authors asking for clarification, while asking if they have misrepresented the car?

To repeat the obvious, this is 2017 not 1917. How can Hyundai produce a vehicle with vintage performance and is so ill-equipped for today's motoring?

[Dazzler]

and...(sorry to harp) but you shouldn't be out of pocket with mechanic and dyno costs (at your expense!) 

By all means refer Hyundai Australia to this thread in your email... 

[nzenigma]

As a client of Hyundai , you can demonstrate a lack of due care, by a Hyundai Dealership, for Hyundai's product and reputation.  Furthermore, your rights, under the terms of your warranty, have been stifled by this dealership and therefore by the Hyundai Corporation.
 

[dnalor50]

Ok so update....
Wonders will never cease! Road test = all fine and plug in showed no faults. However my trusty dash cam (iroadv9 so front and rear and audio lol) shows a drive down the road and shuts off then aprx 4 min later its in the workshop so hmmmmm....

The radio was updated and seems better, hasn't frozen so theres a plus.

Currently considering my options.

And yeah my gears resist and grind if I try too shift too quick.... must be a SR thing. I do miss that about the focus, she liked to run up through the gears. My dads 01 laser SR is the same

I think the gear box is tall for the engine. A 5sp would have been better suited.

Anyway maybe time to visit another mechanic and a dyno

Thanks for confirming my observations about the slow shifting SR gearbox . I have discussed this issue elsewhere on the forum and only received some very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem. Apologies for hijacking the thread !

I agree with your observation that the gearbox is tall for the engine . 6th gear feels like an overdrive at the 100-110 speed limits and a change down is required for any incline.

[Nonamesleft]

Don't apologise at all, its reassuring and more helpful than you realise being able to compare with someone who has come from pretty much the same car to.... well pretty much the same car lol and having similar issues. Its good we can compare, so feel free to throw up any other observations you have 😊


http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/

I think this review is more honest...

[nzenigma]

...http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/
I think this review is more honest...

Yes, The reviewer does not seem impressed with the SR performance but, unlike you and dnalor50, he says: "The six-speed manual had a good spread of ratios, and offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly ..." 

@dnalor50.  Im sorry that our responses were "very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem". Not our intention to avoid the subject and glad to see that you have re-entered the discussion.

Similar to our interest in Bec's SR drama, we suggested too heavy oil used in the gearbox or ( and this is my main suspicion) the clutch is not disengaging properly.

You previously wrote: "The clutch must be pushed hard to the floor for each gear change. The gear stick needs to be moved to the point of engagement and then slowly eased into gear."

 Have you physically observed the pedal to master cylinder and master cylinder to slave cylinder action?
Does there appear to be a lag in movement between each component, either air in fluid or mechanical adjustment can cause this.
In other words, if the clutch pedal has to go to the floor before it ( probably only partially) disengages the clutch, is there a lot of pedal free play when you first begin to press on the clutch.?
There is a metal push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. It may need adjustment.

[dnalor50]

...http://www.motoring.com.au/hyundai-i30-sr-2016-review-103112/
I think this review is more honest...

Yes, The reviewer does not seem impressed with the SR performance but, unlike you and dnalor50, he says: "The six-speed manual had a good spread of ratios, and offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly ..." 

@dnalor50.  Im sorry that our responses were "very guarded acknowledgment that there is a problem". Not our intention to avoid the subject and glad to see that you have re-entered the discussion.

Similar to our interest in Bec's SR drama, we suggested too heavy oil used in the gearbox or ( and this is my main suspicion) the clutch is not disengaging properly.

You previously wrote: "The clutch must be pushed hard to the floor for each gear change. The gear stick needs to be moved to the point of engagement and then slowly eased into gear."

 Have you physically observed the pedal to master cylinder and master cylinder to slave cylinder action?
Does there appear to be a lag in movement between each component, either air in fluid or mechanical adjustment can cause this.
In other words, if the clutch pedal has to go to the floor before it ( probably only partially) disengages the clutch, is there a lot of pedal free play when you first begin to press on the clutch.?
There is a metal push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. It may need adjustment.

Thanks for the detailed reply nzenigma. The clutch feels good and appears to be working fine, with the initial bite about 40-50 mm off the floor and there appears to be minimal free play at the start of the clutch travel. Pumping does not change the point of engagement. The gate or "H pattern" also feels well defined and perfectly adjusted The dealership tell me they have tested it extensively and there is no problem with the clutch or the gearbox. They have also changed the gearbox oil.

The dealer called in a Hyundai specialist to test the car and I noticed that he drove the car as I do, with a well defined pause before easing it into gear. I don't mind changing gears slowly and methodically, as this is how I drive most of the time, but even then I sometimes get a buzzing or  snick, which can be felt through the gear stick. My concern is that these slight buzzes and snicks will result in worn synchro or other gearbox problems in the longer term.

I still maintain that the gearing is too high for Australian speed limits. They might be good ratios on an Autobahn or they may suit a diesel engine.

[nzenigma]

While thinking about this issue I was driving my 13 Year old Hilux ute ( only 70,000 km  ) while snap shifting and trying to emulate your tight crunching gear shift. Couldn't do it! 

The early Holden , that Lakes will remember , used to come out of a dealer's workshop with the clutch pedal set to operate near the floor. I hated it. I used to change the setting ( adjusting the rod going to the master cylinder) so that the clutch would operate with a tap on the pedal ( eg. at the top of the stroke) .

It comes down to this;

1. if your car is stationary and the clutch has properly disengaged the motor from the gearbox, it is not possible to crunch gears, because nothing is moving in the gearbox.

2. If you are crunching gears at take-off, the clutch is not working.

3. If you crunch gears while driving, as above, or the synchromesh is not working. 

4. If these faults, that now appear to be quite pronounced, were evident during road tests, why did the tester say "...offered a precise, direct shift. It swapped cogs smoothly..."?
Why not ask him?

5. Who the hell, in 2017,  changes gear "with a well defined pause before easing it into gear"

[Doggie 1]

5. Who the hell, in 2017,  changes gear "with a well defined pause before easing it into gear"

Probably the same person who still double de-clutches.   

[The Gonz]

 

[mickd]

Nonamesleft - bec,
How's it going since she's been at the "dealer"?
Had a chance to go over Razorback to compare to the PM description you sent?
As I said my 04 Mit Challenger manual will hold 80( even the 55 corners) no sweat.
You mentioned maybe a dyno test , any luck? Their is 1 at Narellan.

Mickd