[jonnyplantpot]

Hello,
I’ve just changed my front break pads on my i30 Tourer for the first time.
It’s back together and all seems ok, but I just wanted to double check something.

I’d describe the brakes as sprightly spongy. It’s still drivable and not really and issue. I took it for a little spin up the road and back and it was noticeablely better at the end, as opposed to the start.

I was assuming this was because a small amount of brake fluid came out, at the reservoir, when I compressed the callipers to get them back on (couple of millimetres). But when I opened the reservoir to top it back up there was fluid right to the top of the neck of the reservoir. There’s a red plastic thing in the neck of the reservoir, not sure what that is.

Does this seem normal?
Like I said the car appears to be ok, I just noticed it was very slightly spongy on the breaker peddle.
Thanks for the info,
Jon

[jonnyplantpot]

Hi,
So I have just been to the dump, and it feels normal now. (Hope that doesn’t curse it)

I’ve attached an image of the reservoir.


My instinct says it’s over full, but it’s been like that for a year, since I got the car.
I’m not sure what the red thing in the neck is. Does anyone know?
Is this an actual problem or can I just ignore it as not important?
Thanks, Jon.

[tw2005]

Sounds like new pads , old rotors and the need for bedding in. Likely you had less bite and you were using more pedal pressure giving the impression it may be spongy.

Going on what you did , unlikely air got in.

The basket, I think it's like a gauze filter. If the level is above MAX I'd syringe it out back to the max.

With pad wear the level will drop as the pistons extend. So long as the level is between min and max I don't bother topping up for the reason that when I do pads the total volume will be greater than what can be held when the pads are new.  I use the level as a bit of a quick guide on pad wear.

Important too, fluid ideally should be flushed through and changed in the system since brake fluid is hydroscopic or absorbs moisture easily. I try and do mine every 2-3 years.

Exposure to air alone it will draw moisture. That will lower the fluids boiling point and can also cause corrosion in the system.

Also,  did you flush away the spilt brake fluid off any body work? Can be corrosive to paint.

Was this a 2010 Tourer as per your profile?

I don't recognise that master cyl or position. 2010 I thought were known as CW and the brake master is on the left side or passenger for a RHD vehicle, in fact all variants had it on the left I thought.

That changed with GD I believe which were known a Tourer.

GD



FD

[TerryT]

Hello,
I’ve just changed my front break pads on my i30 Tourer for the first time.
It’s back together and all seems ok, but I just wanted to double check something.

I’d describe the brakes as sprightly spongy. It’s still drivable and not really and issue. I took it for a little spin up the road and back and it was noticeablely better at the end, as opposed to the start.

I was assuming this was because a small amount of brake fluid came out, at the reservoir, when I compressed the callipers to get them back on (couple of millimetres). But when I opened the reservoir to top it back up there was fluid right to the top of the neck of the reservoir. There’s a red plastic thing in the neck of the reservoir, not sure what that is.

Does this seem normal?
Like I said the car appears to be ok, I just noticed it was very slightly spongy on the breaker peddle.
Thanks for the info,
Jon

Spongy brakes: When you changed the front brake pads did you bleed the front brakes at the caliper bleeder screws?   If you didn't (and they haven't been bleed for a long, long time), your spongy brakes may be caused by cruddy, degraded brake fluid sitting in the brake line immediately behind the brake caliper pistons. 

Or, depending on car mileage and/or use, it may be the car needs a full brake fluid change/flush.  Do you know when, or if, your car's brake fluid has ever been changed/flushed?

Brake fluid level:  On most brake master cylinder reservoirs there is a "FULL" mark or line etched on the plastic reservoir indicating the Fill To mark.  Find the "mark" on yours and check your fluid level with the vehicle on a (reasonably) level surface. 

Red Thingy:  I would say that is simply an OEM filter designed to prevent any small "nasties" (accidentally) entering the brake system whenever the brake master cylinder cap is OFF.

If I've got anything wrong here I'm sure more knowledgeable members will correct.

EDIT: TW2005 and I have cross-posted.   





 

[jonnyplantpot]

Hi folks.
It’s a 2016 tourer, I’ve just corrected my profile. It’s a GD and the reservoir looks a lot like the one at the top.

Yeah I wiped it up. (Although I’m now feeling a bit paranoid, so I’ll double check that  ) it fell down through the engine bay, so I’m assuming there isn’t a lot of paintwork in there.

I’m hoping the fluid is ok. I brought it just over a year ago, and it had been serviced by main dealer. I changed the pads as they were starting to squeak (doesn’t do that now). I did go to Hyundai and get a set of disks but I spent quite a bit of time measuring the thickness etc and they appeared to be the same. I concluded that they did it all before I got the car, and it’s just the pads that had worn down. So I don’t know explicitly but that’s where what I can see leads me.

As you say, I think it’s a case of bedding in - old disks / new pads. I can see the point about the crud, in the lines; but as they weren’t spongy before and they’re getting better each time it goes out I’m hoping I’m ok there for a while yet.

The info you guys have supplied is very helpful. There’s quiet I few things in there I wasn’t aware of, water and corrosion mainly. Suspect  next time I do the pads I’ll be in for disks as well, so it’ll make sense to change the fluid then.

Onto eBay to grab a little something to pull that extra bit of fluid out, it is then.
 
Thanks again for the info. It’s useful to double check I’ve not done something massively stupid.
Jon

[tw2005]

Hi folks.
It’s a 2016 tourer, I’ve just corrected my profile. It’s a GD and the reservoir looks a lot like the one at the top.

Yeah I wiped it up. (Although I’m now feeling a bit paranoid, so I’ll double check that  ) it fell down through the engine bay, so I’m assuming there isn’t a lot of paintwork in there.

I’m hoping the fluid is ok. I brought it just over a year ago, and it had been serviced by main dealer. I changed the pads as they were starting to squeak (doesn’t do that now). I did go to Hyundai and get a set of disks but I spent quite a bit of time measuring the thickness etc and they appeared to be the same. I concluded that they did it all before I got the car, and it’s just the pads that had worn down. So I don’t know explicitly but that’s where what I can see leads me.

As you say, I think it’s a case of bedding in - old disks / new pads. I can see the point about the crud, in the lines; but as they weren’t spongy before and they’re getting better each time it goes out I’m hoping I’m ok there for a while yet.

The info you guys have supplied is very helpful. There’s quiet I few things in there I wasn’t aware of, water and corrosion mainly. Suspect  next time I do the pads I’ll be in for disks as well, so it’ll make sense to change the fluid then.

Onto eBay to grab a little something to pull that extra bit of fluid out, it is then.
 
Thanks again for the info. It’s useful to double check I’ve not done something massively stupid.
Jon

Best thing with brake fluid spilt, simply flush with copius amounts of water, wiping is generally not a good idea on painted surfaces if it's been affected but then I may be too old school and modern paints are likely more resistant but still I'd flush it off.

You could simply get a bit of clear tubing of a good length and suck a bit out that way without ingesting it.

[TerryT]

I can see the point about the crud, in the lines; but as they weren’t spongy before and they’re getting better each time it goes out...

Onto eBay to grab a little something to pull that extra bit of fluid out...
 

My bad, I misunderstood, thought the brakes were spongy before and after the change of pads.

The plastic tube method suggested by tw2005 is a cheap, effective way to drain off excess fluid. (I call it the 'suck-n-spit' only because I'm uncoordinated).   A turkey baster or large-ish pipette are other cheap alternatives.

[The Gonz]

30ml Rubber Head Glass Pipette Dropper Lab Glassware Tool For Veterinary BDAU LJ | eBay

[jonnyplantpot]

Hi,
Thanks for the extra info. I probably hadn’t made it totally clear about the amount of spongyness before. From what you guys have said I think what I’ve got is normal for what I’ve done an di just need to get the excess fluid out.

I gave it another wipe and couldn’t find anything. Might give it a rinse tomorrow.

Gone a couple of cheap syringes from eBay. Think they’ll do it.

I’m find doing car things a lot like doing plumbing. There’s a lot a YouTube and eventually I have to ask a couple of questions. Your help is much appreciated.
 
 
Jon

[Surferdude]

Just catching up with this. The guys above have pretty well covered it all.

Just on the brake fluid on the paint. Wiping will NOT get rid of it.
Use a hose for copious amointsmof water. Not a full jet and don't were anything else under there.
Make sure the reservoir lid is firmly tightened before you start.

Disclaimer.  The damage might already be done. I've seen paint blister in just a few hours.  At least the area is mostly out of sight.