i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: Jarlef on October 23, 2018, 12:07:07
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The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.
I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console) turns really hot while engine running
Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?
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The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.
I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console) turns really hot while engine running
Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?
There's a few variables here I'll run through my thoughts on each.
Radiator cleaner, helpful but if it's blocked somewhere it's unlikely going to fix it.
changing coolant - not going to chang the state of things eiether but beneficial long term.
Removing the thermostat - only going to make things colder, not a great idea for the engine long term. If it was faulty and stuck open that would have the engine running cold and could affect the heater efficiency.
Was it stuck open?, Where does teh temp gauge sit normally when driving? Is it heating as fast as normal?
DO you get wild variations whilst driving stop / start with the gauge?
all those could be symptoms of an open thermostat, you had it out did you check it?
One that is stuck closed or restricted, I'd expect you have an overheating engine.
SInce it was out, would have been a good time for a new one as you had done all the hard work.
Water pump - if not working you'd have an overheating engine pretty quick I'd think, if worn could start leaking fron the casing or noisy.
Whining noise, could be anything . If it appears off the drive belt side you have the pump, the tensioner pulley bearings, the idler pulley bearings , alternator bearings and the A/C compressor.
Is the AC on when it whines? If it is, does it go away when it's off?
Remove the drive belt , spin the individual items by hand and see if tehy feel free and quiet or noisy and binding?
I'm assuming by radiator inside centre console we're talking about the Heater core.
One side really hot, good sign the coolant is also hot and arriving at the core, is the other pipe hot indicating flow through the core?
alternatively you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.
are they both hot, you could remove both and put a hose in the core pipes and flush with water to confirm the core is not blocked.
The flap opens, is ther normal air flow with the fan on at all sped settings?
How many K's has the car done?
:sweating: :faint:
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The heater only blows cold or slightly warm air. Also, there's a whining noise comming from the engine. I only hear it when engine speed is above 1500 rev/min and it changes with speed.
I have run radiator cleaner through the system, just in case.
I have changed coolant
I have removed the thermostat just for a while, but the heater remains cold.
I have verified that the heater actuator opens the air dampers when heater is set to hot
I noticed a metal tube connected to the radiator inside the cupe (driver side. center console) turns really hot while engine running
Do I need to replace waterpump, or could it be something else ?
There's a few variables here I'll run through my thoughts on each.
Radiator cleaner, helpful but if it's blocked somewhere it's unlikely going to fix it.
changing coolant - not going to chang the state of things eiether but beneficial long term.
Removing the thermostat - only going to make things colder, not a great idea for the engine long term. If it was faulty and stuck open that would have the engine running cold and could affect the heater efficiency.
Was it stuck open?, Where does teh temp gauge sit normally when driving? Is it heating as fast as normal?
DO you get wild variations whilst driving stop / start with the gauge?
all those could be symptoms of an open thermostat, you had it out did you check it?
One that is stuck closed or restricted, I'd expect you have an overheating engine.
SInce it was out, would have been a good time for a new one as you had done all the hard work.
Water pump - if not working you'd have an overheating engine pretty quick I'd think, if worn could start leaking fron the casing or noisy.
Whining noise, could be anything . If it appears off the drive belt side you have the pump, the tensioner pulley bearings, the idler pulley bearings , alternator bearings and the A/C compressor.
Is the AC on when it whines? If it is, does it go away when it's off?
Remove the drive belt , spin the individual items by hand and see if tehy feel free and quiet or noisy and binding?
I'm assuming by radiator inside centre console we're talking about the Heater core.
One side really hot, good sign the coolant is also hot and arriving at the core, is the other pipe hot indicating flow through the core?
alternatively you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.
are they both hot, you could remove both and put a hose in the core pipes and flush with water to confirm the core is not blocked.
The flap opens, is ther normal air flow with the fan on at all sped settings?
How many K's has the car done?
:sweating: :faint:
That's you spent for the day, go take a well deserved nap. :goodjob: :goodjob2:
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:head_knock:
Mate a lot of work and dont mean to be rude, but I think you just leave a trail of confusion, for a novice, when doing this.
Would have been simpler to just say .... you should be able to locate the 2 pipes/hoses in the firewall that go directly to the core.
then trace to or from the blockage.
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I like to speak in volumes. :phone1:
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I like to speak in volumes. :phone1:
Apparently :D composing short PM
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Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced
Any thoughts on this?
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Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced
Any thoughts on this?
Not really without some kind of information on what has been proven ok.
Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?
90 is mid point on the temp dial, we don't have our marked as such but I'm pretty sure mine sits bang on halfway or ever so marginally below. I'll check it today when I head to work.
Having it hot and then bleed off temp suggests there is insufficient flow through the core.
Is this whilst stationary ? Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?
Can't comment on a faulty pump really. never had a vehicle where it was not pumping correctly and not overheating, and I'm not sure if being diesel if that changes anything.
Nothing more from me at this point,.
@nzenigma 2nd opinion
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EXACTLY THE SAME FROM ME
In 'War and Pieces' above, Gerard made a valid point about the pump. You probably missed this. If pump is not working efficiently- engine over heats. It does not get cooler.
You say engine runs at normal temperature. Therefore, thermostat and pump are oK
This sound like a blocked hose or heater core , or somewhere in that region. As I indicated, while engine is running at temp, look for a hot pipe in and cold pipe out.
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in case we are missing the obvious, do you have climate control? Have you checked that air con is not in operation?
CHECK that compressor clutch is disengaged.
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
What thought?
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
What thought?
Wotif
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WTF............... :whistler:
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WTF............... :whistler:
Nice :goodjob2:
I guess the.........
The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on
Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey
That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics
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Give us the beat, the beat is pumping
Stomping and thumping
Slamming and jumping
( deee-light)
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
Ok
When my heater failed to direct the heat from cabin to window the garage told me that a wire had come loose/away from a connector behind the dash.
This was reset seated and all the direction flows worked as intended.
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
What thought?
That that you have when considering how to solve a problem/issue.
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WTF............... :whistler:
Nice :goodjob2:
I guess the.........
The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on
Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey
That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics
Please explain
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WTF............... :whistler:
Nice :goodjob2:
I guess the.........
The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on
Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey
That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics
Please explain
Temporary insanity on my part and a continuation of the What.............?
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
What valves?
Ok
When my heater failed to direct the heat from cabin to window the garage told me that a wire had come loose/away from a connector behind the dash.
This was reset seated and all the direction flows worked as intended.
Right, so you're referring to the air control flaps operated by stepper motors. The OP has stated "Air Dampers" are functioning correctly.
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WTF............... :whistler:
Nice :goodjob2:
I guess the.........
The heat is on, on the street
Inside your head, on every beat
And the beat's so loud, deep inside
The pressure's high, just to stay alive
'Cause the heat is on
Harold Faltermeyer / Keith Forsey
That was for @nzenigma just in case he asks for more lyrics
Please explain
Temporary insanity on my part and a continuation of the What.............?
Contagion :whistler:
โThe clock in the church tower said 4.32, as it had done for three hundred years. It was right once a day and that was better than no clock at all.โ (Milligan)
๎
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Just on the engine temp,
Given today in Brisbane it is going to be a cooler 29 degrees (low 18), and in Norway they are shooting for a top of 7 (low -1) would it be possible that the lower air temp may compensate?
secondly;
Wild boys fallen far from glory
Reckless and so hungered
On the razors edge you trail
Because there's murder by the roadside
In a sore afraid new world
They tried to break us
Looks like they'll try again
Thirdly
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/66/e0/94/66e09408f2886c1c930631f1d849d6be.jpg)
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:backontopic:
coming from the NZ experience, yes air temp does make heating the car slower, but you recirculate the air, then the windows fog up so you also put on air con to clear them , then you go inside and have breakfast; 30 minutes later you hit the road in a nice warm car.
:baps:
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Again, thanks! I've read through all and understood at least half of it.
There is however one thing I forgotten to mention, which may be important.
There hot air on the divers side (left), but not on the passenger side. Why ?
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Thanks. I now believe the water pump is worn, but not broken.
Because, if I turn off the heater for 5 minutes or more while the engine is hot and running and then turn it on full heat, it blows hot air. Not as hot as is should, but hot. Then after a few minutes the heater blows less hot, almost cold. The engine temperature is normal and always below 90C. The engine has done about 230000 km and the water pump has never been replaced
Any thoughts on this?
Not really without some kind of information on what has been proven ok.
Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?
90 is mid point on the temp dial, we don't have our marked as such but I'm pretty sure mine sits bang on halfway or ever so marginally below. I'll check it today when I head to work.
Having it hot and then bleed off temp suggests there is insufficient flow through the core.
Is this whilst stationary ? Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?
Can't comment on a faulty pump really. never had a vehicle where it was not pumping correctly and not overheating, and I'm not sure if being diesel if that changes anything.
Nothing more from me at this point,.
@nzenigma 2nd opinion
"Did you prove water can flow freely through the heater core?"
- Not really, how do I do that?
"Is the car temp dial still in the same spot , never drops?"
- temperatur rise slowly to 90C and never drops.
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in case we are missing the obvious, do you have climate control? Have you checked that air con is not in operation?
CHECK that compressor clutch is disengaged.
No, I have not checked. I don't think I understand what you're asking... How do I check that?
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Just a thought......
Are the heater control wires/fittings connected behind dash and not loose or fallen away from connectors causing valves not to operate.
That's hard to know, but as far I have discover everthing is fine here. But again, I am not sure
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Jarlef, I know nothing, BUT, I feel that if there is hot air on the drivers side then the pump, thermostat et al are working and that Lester may have been on the right track when he suggested that the direction of air being blown may be the culprit.
I await with interest to see what our celvererere members recomend :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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in case we are missing the obvious, do you have climate control? Have you checked that air con is not in operation?
CHECK that compressor clutch is disengaged.
No, I have not checked. I don't think I understand what you're asking... How do I check that?
You just look at the front of compressor. The middle part does not move if ac is off.
But disregard. :blubber: I just read that it is only the passenger who is cold??????? :faint:
Again, thanks! I've read through all and understood at least half of it.
There is however one thing I forgotten to mention, which may be important.
There hot air on the divers side (left), but not on the passenger side. Why ?
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My plan now is to flush the heat core, using the two hoses going through the fire wall. I hope this would remove ensure good flow through the heat core, and that will fix the problem
Next step (which I hope to avoid) is to take a closer look at actuators and air-blenders. I might have done something wrong when I replace the heat actuator last year. I've notice that there a loose cable on the passenger side. Perhaps it should be connected somewhere or it could be a spare of some kind. I don't know.
Third step, I need to know why there blowing hot air on the drivers side only(?)
If all these steps fails, then I will concider replace water pump
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(https://image.ibb.co/mKn6F0/2016-06-30-16-07-30.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I not sure, but is that a leakage?
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(https://image.ibb.co/mKn6F0/2016-06-30-16-07-30.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I not sure, but is that a leakage?
Maybe, I can't tell with that image.
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/HEURPJDH/9797111.png)
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Could be condensation, a leak? :undecided: Its under pressure.
There are no 'spare' things down there.
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I would like to know why the heater only blows hot air on the drivers side, while passenger side lack hot air.
I've been searching the internet about this problem and I found out it's not uncommon, yet I fail to find a good explanation.
I've study a technical drawing of the heater system and as far as I could understand, both sides should always have the same air-temperature when everything is working. Am I right?
I suspect the reason might be that the heat core is partially clogged. I don't know how the coolant flow through the heat core, but I know the inlet and the outlet are both on the drives side. Could it be that the coolant flow only goes through on half of the heater core. If so, it would be hot on one side and cold on the other. Which means the heater core is faulty, because it shouldn't be possible, as the coolant is forced to run through all canals inside the core. So if there's a short cut it may be the canal wall have rusty holes...
Please tell me what you think of this theory ?
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If hot air is working on one side then it's not the core, if the core was blocked it wouldn't work at all.
I'd be inspecting correct function of the air direction flaps and their actuators.
I don't know why you started a new topic for this rather than continuing in your other topic where you're discussing the same problem :confused:
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I don't know why you started a new topic
Yep, good point.
Topics merged.
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I would like to know why the heater only blows hot air on the drivers side, while passenger side lack hot air.
I've been searching the internet about this problem and I found out it's not uncommon, yet I fail to find a good explanation.
I've study a technical drawing of the heater system and as far as I could understand, both sides should always have the same air-temperature when everything is working. Am I right?
I suspect the reason might be that the heat core is partially clogged. I don't know how the coolant flow through the heat core, but I know the inlet and the outlet are both on the drives side. Could it be that the coolant flow only goes through on half of the heater core. If so, it would be hot on one side and cold on the other. Which means the heater core is faulty, because it shouldn't be possible, as the coolant is forced to run through all canals inside the core. So if there's a short cut it may be the canal wall have rusty holes...
Please tell me what you think of this theory ?
Air to the floor should be theorectically equal as it is a single flap that directs the air and it exits out of each of those side ducts that slip onto the body . Items numbered 97112E & 97282D in my original breakdown image.
The faulty heater core theory does not make sense to me, I would expect reduced heating capaciity and that reduction would exit both vents the same.
Shortcut theory, the heater core is just like a radiator, 2 tanks, a bunch of chanels for coolant to flow and fins in between for heat exchange. sure some could block which would indicate potentially poor coolant servicing and a likely radiator issue as well.
If the canal walls had rusty hole, you'd have wet feet, low coolant and over heating car or you'd be topping up all the time .
Here's what one looks like
(https://razbor66.ru/Uploads/SparePart/372798/Photo/864657g.jpg)
Is the air flow on both sides the same? Which vents ? Floor / centre / side
Honestly never struck this scenario before, could something have entered the air box and obstruct one side? Rodents?
:crazy2:
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@Jarlef
As WE have been saying to you ...chasing blocked core and water pump fault is illogical (WRONG). :crazy2:
A rat nest has been on my mind too, tw knows why :-[
YOU said you found a spare cable when you were working on it previously.
I Repeat NOTHING IS SPARE> :crazy1:
Go back over whatever you did previously. You made at mistake. Correct your mistake and you will have hot air.
Enigma returns to the asylum :head_butt: :blubber: :blubber: :blubber:
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@Jarlef
Any update on your issue?
Has it been resolved?
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I have a colleague with same problem, i30 CRDi 2010.
Only hot air in the drivers side (left). If we set the system to only use the 4 vents in the middle of the dash (the 2 by the doors and the 2 by the radio) and all vents are open, then only hot air in the left side. If we close the 2 left vents, then there's hot air in the right side.
My suspicion is a partly clogged radiator but I can see there's different opinions about that theory... :P
It's quite annoying with the limited ability to heat up the cabin here in the winter, but must be even worse for @Jarlef in Norway... :cold:
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to clarify that is the internal heater 'radiator'.
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to clarify that is the internal heater 'radiator'.
:goodjob2:
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to clarify that is the internal heater 'radiator'.
:goodjob2:
:D :D :D :D
Just avoiding the obvious (waterpump) :wink:
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@Jarlef
Any update on your issue?
Has it been resolved?
@Jarlef
Ant outcome?
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Ant outcome?
Yes, its the wet weather, bastards all over kitchen bench. :crazy1:
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Ant outcome?
Yes, its the wet weather, bastards all over kitchen bench. :crazy1:
Haaaaaaa
Any.............