i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Misha on April 11, 2019, 09:40:03
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Hello peeps,
Looking for anyone who would have any ideas on what this :link: Noise from engine bay - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFIzNXlVLrM) (2 hour cold engine) waffling/wobbling noise from the engine bay would be. Currently at 185k, have had it since at-least 149k(probly a good 10k+ before aswell) when I asked dealer/service to figure and stop the noise, so they replaced the fan belt v-ribbed and called it a day(back at 149k service, didn't take it back in due to money at time). Noise wasn't really there when i drove home, but returned the next morning when cold start.
Note, air con being turned off doesn't change anything
Has increased a little in noise over time since.
Noise is more distinct when engine is dead cold. Then gradually goes away 75% when car has been driving for a few minutes.
Any ideas ? : Alternator, alternator pulley, water pump, timing chain ?
I have next to no experience, so any help or suggestions would be awesome.
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Well, I could guess for you.. got no idea sorry. actually sounds a little bit like the noise I had in one of mine with unknown service history. Had about 169K, also had a seized alternator clutch pulley prior to me noticing this rythymic scraping clunk noise. Was making a hell of a racket and belt tensioner was banging away with the seized clutch pulley.
On that one I replaced the clutch pulley , brand new idlers, belt and tensioner which quietened most things down yet still had more oscillation on the tensioner then others I had. None of that may be related but with the tremor I was wondering if the timing chain , guides and tensioners may have been worn.
Anyway, I was going to do the chain but when I saw the cost of the bits and how involved it was I bought a low k wreck and swapped the powertrain. Drastic yes.
Likely over reaction too.
Now you could remove the belt and briefly run the engine and see if the noise is still there and if it is then it would be inside the engine and I'd think timing chain related.
and that's about all I could say, no idea how serious it may be long term.
keepin mind if you do run with no belt, no alternator running, no water pump either so watch the temp, just do it enough to see if it remains or not.
@nzenigma thoughts?
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If you can do another quick Vid with light on the tensioner pulley just to see how steady she is, would be handy , thanks.
I uploaded this but I doubt we'll hear my noise, may show the tensioner vibraion on the belt
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrUt9_HTMNE)
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If you can do another quick Vid with light on the tensioner pulley just to see how steady she is, would be handy , thanks.
I uploaded this but I doubt we'll hear my noise, may show the tensioner vibraion on the belt
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrUt9_HTMNE)
:link: 11 April 2019 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ4s4hWbjNY)
Wasn't 100% sure which was tensioner pulley :) . Hopefully its there in vid
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If you can do another quick Vid with light on the tensioner pulley just to see how steady she is, would be handy , thanks.
I uploaded this but I doubt we'll hear my noise, may show the tensioner vibraion on the belt
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrUt9_HTMNE)
:link: 11 April 2019 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ4s4hWbjNY)
Wasn't 100% sure which was tensioner pulley :) . Hopefully its there in vid
That's nice and steady. Going to be a process of elimination I'm afraid. Isolate the drive belt, if it goes then you'd spin each pulley for any roughness. I guess you've never taken the belt off yourself before either. Take images of how the belt is routed too before youtake it off if you decide to remove it. Does my head in every time trying to remember.
Motor sounds pretty good otherwise.
if the sound remains, likely internal, does sound very similar to what I heard like something rotating and travelling at the chain end of the motor.
Sorry I can't be more specific or offer any solid advice.
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If you can do another quick Vid with light on the tensioner pulley just to see how steady she is, would be handy , thanks.
I uploaded this but I doubt we'll hear my noise, may show the tensioner vibraion on the belt
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrUt9_HTMNE)
:link: 11 April 2019 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ4s4hWbjNY)
Wasn't 100% sure which was tensioner pulley :) . Hopefully its there in vid
That's nice and steady. Going to be a process of elimination I'm afraid. Isolate the drive belt, if it goes then you'd spin each pulley for any roughness. I guess you've never taken the belt off yourself before either. Take images of how the belt is routed too before youtake it off if you decide to remove it. Does my head in every time trying to remember.
Motor sounds pretty good otherwise.
if the sound remains, likely internal, does sound very similar to what I heard like something rotating and travelling at the chain end of the motor.
Sorry I can't be more specific or offer any solid advice.
I appreciate it mate, i understand its shooting in the dark trying to diagnose with just a noise, but you've given me somewhere to start ty :) . Havent taken off a belt before, but willing to give it a crack and see how she goes and see if the sound is still there.
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If you can do another quick Vid with light on the tensioner pulley just to see how steady she is, would be handy , thanks.
I uploaded this but I doubt we'll hear my noise, may show the tensioner vibraion on the belt
:link: Hyundai i30CW D4FB chain noise - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrUt9_HTMNE)
:link: 11 April 2019 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ4s4hWbjNY)
Wasn't 100% sure which was tensioner pulley :) . Hopefully its there in vid
That's nice and steady. Going to be a process of elimination I'm afraid. Isolate the drive belt, if it goes then you'd spin each pulley for any roughness. I guess you've never taken the belt off yourself before either. Take images of how the belt is routed too before youtake it off if you decide to remove it. Does my head in every time trying to remember.
Motor sounds pretty good otherwise.
if the sound remains, likely internal, does sound very similar to what I heard like something rotating and travelling at the chain end of the motor.
Sorry I can't be more specific or offer any solid advice.
I appreciate it mate, i understand its shooting in the dark trying to diagnose with just a noise, but you've given me somewhere to start ty :) . Havent taken off a belt before, but willing to give it a crack and see how she goes and see if the sound is still there.
On the tensioner pulley, there should be a 14mm hex head as part of the casting, if you have a long breaker bar you should be able to fully rotate it anti clockwiase , at the end of travel 2 holes will line up if you can get a 3mm drill or allenn key in through those holses it wil hold the tensioner arm in place to easily work on the belt, hopefully all this fiddling does not create more dramas for you :mrgreen:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/JM8AAOSwA29b24Pt/s-l500.jpg)
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I found that extendable ratchet is superior when taking the belt off. Long enough to get some leverage. Short enough to get under the few cables and hoses. Gap between tensioner and body is small so placing the 3mm bit to the tensioner can be tricky. I never used that. I just let the tensioner open to max after belt is off. Just changed few pulleys today...
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Just dropped in briefly because I see all this well intentioned advise being given, based upon an inaccurate microphone being waved around. Use a stethoscope!!
@Misha get a short piece of hose, put it to your ear and move it to the place of the noise. Then if necessary remove parts, then do it again.
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Just dropped in briefly because I see all this well intentioned advise being given, based upon an inaccurate microphone being waved around. Use a stethoscope!!
@Misha get a short piece of hose, put it to your ear and move it to the place of the noise. Then if necessary remove parts, then do it again.
:snigger: got it boss, got it (http://www.sciencebuddies.org/Files/4165/11/HumBio_img161.jpg) :mrgreen:
well maybe without the funnels :razz:
@nzenigma
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:goodjob2: :rofl:
Making use of that massive trough of public funds? :wink:
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:crazy1:
:link: New Single Head Stethoscope Suitable for Medical EMT Nurse Doctor Vet Student | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Single-Head-Stethoscope-Suitable-for-Medical-EMT-Nurse-Doctor-Vet-Student/142514820571?hash=item212e8b95db:m:mlwTuGUGaitgIp613BfCxbQ&LH_BIN=1&redirect=mobile)
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:crazy1:
:link: New Single Head Stethoscope Suitable for Medical EMT Nurse Doctor Vet Student | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Single-Head-Stethoscope-Suitable-for-Medical-EMT-Nurse-Doctor-Vet-Student/142514820571?hash=item212e8b95db:m:mlwTuGUGaitgIp613BfCxbQ&LH_BIN=1&redirect=mobile)
:goodjob2:
Thanks Gonz.
I'm getting two.
One for workshop and other for wife who recently found a dead cyclist during her early morning walk.
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:snigger:
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One for workshop and other for wife who recently found a dead cyclist during her early morning walk.
It won't help the dead cyclist! :head_knock:
P.S. It isn't much use to me in AFG either - I have a tough time working out which bit is any part of a chest. :winker:
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It won't help the dead cyclist! :head_knock:
:mrgreen:
Nor did half an hour of CPR until the 'first responder' arrived. (6 KM journey) One hour until the ambulance arrived. She never did see the cops.
Now a week later, she did laugh when I offered her the stethoscope. :cool:
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Yes, as qualified First Aiders, there's no assuming until the pros arrive. Good on her for doing the hard work. :goodjob:
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It won't help the dead cyclist! :head_knock:
:mrgreen:
Nor did half an hour of CPR until the 'first responder' arrived. (6 KM journey) One hour until the ambulance arrived. She never did see the cops.
Now a week later, she did laugh when I offered her the stethoscope. :cool:
Were they resurrected in time for easter? :scared:
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It won't help the dead cyclist! :head_knock:
:mrgreen:
Nor did half an hour of CPR until the 'first responder' arrived. (6 KM journey) One hour until the ambulance arrived. She never did see the cops.
Now a week later, she did laugh when I offered her the stethoscope. :cool:
Were they resurrected in time for easter? :scared:
It was only ONE cyclist, same as in the legend. Dont hold out much hope on either count. :phone1:
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So decided to take a look this arvo. Got a breaker bar from supercheap ( :link: ToolPRO Breaker Bar - 1 / 2 inch Drive, 600mm | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-breaker-bar---1-2-inch-drive-600mm/341998.html)) only to have it not fit between the gap(head was to long) :disapp: , so had to makeshift a breaker bar with my ratchet and enstion bar which i wasn't happy about, but oh well. Took me a little while to figure out which was tensioner pulley so ive put my crappy drawing for anyone else for future refence :
(https://i.ibb.co/RDm9w9g/2010-i30-crdi-slx-auto-diesel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S38PCP6) ---- I assume its the water pump on the bottom right of pic.... mabye ac , dont know
Belt looked pretty good when i took it off.
Here's a video of me turning the idler pulleys and tensioner pulley : :link: 13 April 2019 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlsnfH8gZNc)
Only a little bit rough and only a little bit wobbly from what I could tell.... hard to go off when i don't know what they should feel like in good condition etc.
Started the engine without the belt on. Couldn't really hear much of the previous noise that i could tell. When i put the belt back on tho the noise had defiantly returned.
So im thinking of buying this : :link: Belt & Pulley Kit for Hyundai i30 1.6L 2009-12 4Cyl. 16V DOHC DTFI Turbo Diesel | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Belt-Pulley-Kit-for-Hyundai-i30-1-6L-2009-12-4Cyl-16V-DOHC-DTFI-Turbo-Diesel/251714248117) , figure i might as well replace the belt at the same time with the pulleys. ?Can anyone confirm this is the correct parts for me?
Would anyone be able to tell me which wierd star screw i would use to get off the pulleys ? And if its difficult to do, or its just screw off, screw on etc ?
(https://i.ibb.co/txtYG0g/pulleys.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4YG4qbz)
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(https://i.ibb.co/w6fR1tv/2010-i30-crdi-slx-auto-diesel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GPq0jmh)
$150 is a bit of overkill. I thought you said the belt had just been done?
I'll have a look at that kit to see what it includes. Torx 40 I think, getting in there is awkward, I use a 1/4 drive with 1/4 socket with the bit and just fits. Bit of tape on the 1/4 end of the torx so it don't fall out of socket and drive you nuts fining it in the under tray.
Maybe a torx key but avoid those cheap chromey looking ones at supercheap. One good slip of the torx and the torx slt can round and then it'll be less fun like rounding a philips screw.
Is the plastic idler at top the noiseiest?
Some threads are normal right hand, some are left. , example tensioner pulley, right turn to loosen,
OEM belt should be 5PK1815, I think you'll see other sizes suggested just because that brand does not do that size
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Yeah, That bar is too big, I have that one and the size below which should get in there 450mm I think. The 600mm is real handy if you ever want to get serious and remove driveshaft nuts from hubs and anything serious in the suspension / frame department.
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(https://i.ibb.co/w6fR1tv/2010-i30-crdi-slx-auto-diesel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GPq0jmh)
$150 is a bit of overkill. I thought you said the belt had just been done?
I'll have a look at that kit to see what it includes. Torx 40 I think, getting in there is awkward, I use a 1/4 drive with 1/4 socket with the bit and just fits. Bit of tape on the 1/4 end of the torx so it don't fall out of socket and drive you nuts fining it in the under tray.
Maybe a torx key but avoid those cheap chromey looking ones at supercheap. One good slip of the torx and the torx slt can round and then it'll be less fun like rounding a philips screw.
Is the plastic idler at top the noiseiest?
Some threads are normal right hand, some are left. , example tensioner pulley, right turn to loosen,
OEM belt should be 5PK1815, I think you'll see other sizes suggested just because that brand does not do that size
Yes, belt was replaced by dealer 36k ago, and looked in good nick. Was getting ahead of myself i guess :P
From what i could tell (using the diagram from before) the top right IP was the most noisy out of the bunch, followed by the other IP middle top. Tensioner pulley was the best of the 3.
From spinning the other wheels they all seemed good. alternator spun smooth and true IMO
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(https://i.ibb.co/w6fR1tv/2010-i30-crdi-slx-auto-diesel.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GPq0jmh)
$150 is a bit of overkill. I thought you said the belt had just been done?
I'll have a look at that kit to see what it includes. Torx 40 I think, getting in there is awkward, I use a 1/4 drive with 1/4 socket with the bit and just fits. Bit of tape on the 1/4 end of the torx so it don't fall out of socket and drive you nuts fining it in the under tray.
Maybe a torx key but avoid those cheap chromey looking ones at supercheap. One good slip of the torx and the torx slt can round and then it'll be less fun like rounding a philips screw.
Is the plastic idler at top the noiseiest?
Some threads are normal right hand, some are left. , example tensioner pulley, right turn to loosen,
OEM belt should be 5PK1815, I think you'll see other sizes suggested just because that brand does not do that size
Yes, belt was replaced by dealer 36k ago, and looked in good nick. Was getting ahead of myself i guess :P
From what i could tell (using the diagram from before) the top right IP was the most noisy out of the bunch, followed by the other IP middle top. Tensioner pulley was the best of the 3.
From spinning the other wheels they all seemed good. alternator spun smooth and true IMO
2 x EP230, 1 x EP231 it seems from DAYCO. OEM they just list the idlers, tensioner is complete assembly. Ebay suggests 3 x $37 $111 just for pulleys $46 for a belt, on par. generally they're good for 100000K or 5 years or so. Could always get it as a spre for next time
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(https://dayco.com.au/productImages/73.gif)
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One other thing, there was some disagreement on the direction of the bolt in the tensioner, so for the record, both of mine have 14mm std hex head, thread is left hand, clockwise to loosen. I've just checked this on my spare engine.
Some of these have torx heads, they may differ I can not be sure but I'll see if I can find the thread where basically I said left thread, he said right thread. He had the torx headed bolt so be warned.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/JM8AAOSwA29b24Pt/s-l500.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ua4AAOSwke9aDSwQ/s-l500.jpg)
:link: Drive belt tensioner pulley (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=49751.msg463240#msg463240)
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One other thing, there was some disagreement on the direction of the bolt in the tensioner, so for the record, both of mine have 14mm std hex head, thread is left hand, clockwise to loosen. I've just checked this on my spare engine.
Some of these have torx heads, they may differ I can not be sure but I'll see if I can find the thread where basically I said left thread, he said right thread. He had the torx headed bolt so be warned.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/JM8AAOSwA29b24Pt/s-l500.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ua4AAOSwke9aDSwQ/s-l500.jpg)
:link: Drive belt tensioner pulley (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=49751.msg463240#msg463240)
All three looked like the same torx screw on mine.
You are the man ! Thankyou for the clockwise to loosen tip ...... could have made my day bad if i went the other way hard :P
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Pulleys came in mail today :victory: :victory: :victory:
Was able to replace the 2 idler pulleys easily with a torx 40(only knocked off 1cm chunk of skin... :whistler:) , they where both anti-clockwise to loosen.
Grooved ilder pulley was only a little noisy. But the flat, top idler pulley was noisy AF, so bearing was definitely shitty.
However I was unable to get the tensioner pulley off, was a torx 30. Its on there well and truly, the cheap torx keys i got ( :link: ToolPRO Long Hex Key Set - Metric / Torx, 18 Pieces | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-long-hex-key-set---metric-torx-18-pieces/167994.html)) started to bend at the tip, and the bolt maybe threaded like 5% (not much but enough to stop me).
Problem is my torx socket set i have ( :link: Kincrome 11 Piece 1/4, 3/8 And 1/2" Drive Spline Socket Rail (https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-11-piece-1-4-3-8-and-1-2-drive-spline-socket-rail_p6110886)) doesn't fit in the gap (unless anyone knows of a 1/4 ratchet thats skinnier than my sideways fingertip :/ )
Started cold engine up, noise is still there, tho definitely less noise, the distinct original wobbling noise is still there, upon further intense continued looking at the tensioner pulley, the noise definitely appears to be in rhythm with the tensioner pulley slightly going back and forth. New short vid : ( :link: Tensioner pulley noise ? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33dDoSmr064))
Anyone know of a skinny ratchet and torx socket out there ?
Or if its seized do i have to buy the whole belt tensioner unit to replace it. ( :link: Dayco Automatic Belt Tensioner APV2764 fits Hyundai i30 1.4 (GD) 73kw, 1.6 CD... | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Automatic-Belt-Tensioner-APV2764-fits-Hyundai-i30-1-4-GD-73kw-1-6-CD/162816303646?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3Ai30%7CPlat_Gen%3AFD%7CSubmodel%3AFD+Hatchback+1.6+CRDi%7CMake%3AHyundai&hash=item25e89ba21e:g:QUUAAOSwNWxaPUmT&frcectupt=true))
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After looking at this older thread :link: Drive belt tensioner pulley (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=49751.0) , i'm thinking i should take the drive belt tensioner off completely to work on the pulley freely.
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Pulleys came in mail today :victory: :victory: :victory:
Was able to replace the 2 idler pulleys easily with a torx 40(only knocked off 1cm chunk of skin... :whistler:) , they where both anti-clockwise to loosen.
Grooved ilder pulley was only a little noisy. But the flat, top idler pulley was noisy AF, so bearing was definitely shitty.
However I was unable to get the tensioner pulley off, was a torx 30. Its on there well and truly, the cheap torx keys i got ( :link: ToolPRO Long Hex Key Set - Metric / Torx, 18 Pieces | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-long-hex-key-set---metric-torx-18-pieces/167994.html)) started to bend at the tip, and the bolt maybe threaded like 5% (not much but enough to stop me).
Problem is my torx socket set i have ( :link: Kincrome 11 Piece 1/4, 3/8 And 1/2" Drive Spline Socket Rail (https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-11-piece-1-4-3-8-and-1-2-drive-spline-socket-rail_p6110886)) doesn't fit in the gap (unless anyone knows of a 1/4 ratchet thats skinnier than my sideways fingertip :/ )
Started cold engine up, noise is still there, tho definitely less noise, the distinct original wobbling noise is still there, upon further intense continued looking at the tensioner pulley, the noise definitely appears to be in rhythm with the tensioner pulley slightly going back and forth. New short vid : ( :link: Tensioner pulley noise ? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33dDoSmr064))
Anyone know of a skinny ratchet and torx socket out there ?
Or if its seized do i have to buy the whole belt tensioner unit to replace it. ( :link: Dayco Automatic Belt Tensioner APV2764 fits Hyundai i30 1.4 (GD) 73kw, 1.6 CD... | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Automatic-Belt-Tensioner-APV2764-fits-Hyundai-i30-1-4-GD-73kw-1-6-CD/162816303646?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3Ai30%7CPlat_Gen%3AFD%7CSubmodel%3AFD+Hatchback+1.6+CRDi%7CMake%3AHyundai&hash=item25e89ba21e:g:QUUAAOSwNWxaPUmT&frcectupt=true))
that torx set is the exact one i tried to say not to buy. They are rubbish .
Maybe remove the assembly from the motor. Don't forget someone has suggested the torx on the tensioner is standard thread. I can only confirm the hex heads are reverse thread.
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After many swear words, and much perseverance, I managed to strip the torx 30 nut well and good, bent the good torx socket, and gave myself a sore back.
So its been a good night :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
@h20melon do you remember what bolt size, length, and thread it was for the tensioner pulley ? I will need a new one when i get around to/figure out how to remove my current one :crazy2: :crazy2: :crazy2:
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Hi Misha,
Sorry to hear that about your belt replacement troubles.
Yes I took my tensioner off the car and put it in the vice to work on. Unfortunately I cannot remember what size bolt it is for the pulley, but when you get it off you should see the end of it just level with the back of the tensioner.
The bolt has locktite on it so heating could help. I cut a straight groove in the head as I too had stripped the torx and used an impact driver to loosen the bolt.
Hopefully this helps.
The tensioner is attached to the engine with 2 bolts that are deep enough away from the body to get a socket in to undo.
Btw: if your old pulleys are Metal, keep them and just get new bearings for them rather than the whole thing. When I replaced my pulleys I bought a set of bearings ready for the next change for about $10 per bearing (and they all have the same size bearing too).
Well on my car anyway.
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So due to not being able to get the tensioner pulley off, even with a vise and impact drill. I ordered : :link: Dayco Automatic Belt Tensioner APV2764 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Automatic-Belt-Tensioner-APV2764/152853090807?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649#vi-ilComp)
Looks the same, but upon closer inspection the springs and pulley look in different location. It looks like it tensions in the oppisite direction :/ . Did i get the wrong part ( dayco APV2764 ) ?
(https://i.ibb.co/0KWfQL5/57624925-10156935092047349-166281793463386112-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HCMrXyZ)(https://i.ibb.co/BnqVxJn/58049101-10156935085592349-4505746861910392832-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rd4GShd)(https://i.ibb.co/0Vx96zc/58383654-10156935077152349-50803922603868160-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qFvgc2d)
I havent put it in yet as it looks like it tensions in the other direction ?
Side note looking at the alignment with both the drive belt on and off, the drive belt tensioner looks like its 2-3mm out of alignment (going outwards):
I put a long hex key to poor man see if things are aligned, and putting the straight long key on the other 2 idler pulleys and sliding it down, it catches on the tensioner pulley by 2-3mm. So this may have been my problem all along..... mabye
(https://i.ibb.co/G58gLVL/58384374-10156935097527349-2448736188899524608-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z4BKYSY)(https://i.ibb.co/hFsqQr4/57798899-10156935097542349-1480468307738886144-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jkhp0qQ)(https://i.ibb.co/bQQ7T4h/58461344-10156935085602349-2697867252962689024-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jbbHmCK)
***Second side note : the new Dayco APV2764 tensioner pulley has a torx 40 bolt right hand thread(I'm thinking m8, 1mm maybe) FYI.
***The new bolt had no Loctite on it, so probably a good idea to put a bit of Loctite blue on there just in case.
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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
-
What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative. My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.
So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.
-
What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative. My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.
So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.
And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly. :crazy1:
Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.
Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:
Taipei.
-
What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative. My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.
So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.
And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly. :crazy1:
Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.
Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:
Taipei.
It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.
Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together :drinks:
(https://i.ibb.co/CzjRKq1/spirit-two-person-training-stethoscope-black.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mKj02n)
-
What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative. My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.
So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.
And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly. :crazy1:
Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.
Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:
Taipei.
It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.
Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together :drinks:
(https://i.ibb.co/CzjRKq1/spirit-two-person-training-stethoscope-black.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mKj02n)
yeah. :whsaid: 13hr + flights. @nzenigma
-
What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.
keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.
also for anyone else you can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.
Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative. My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.
So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.
And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly. :crazy1:
Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.
Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:
Taipei.
It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.
Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together :drinks:
(https://i.ibb.co/CzjRKq1/spirit-two-person-training-stethoscope-black.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6mKj02n)
yeah. :whsaid: 13hr + flights. @nzenigma
13 hrs being pampered by a Taiwanese Godess . I suffer for you all. :victory: :mrgreen:
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13 hrs being pampered by a Taiwanese Godess . I suffer for you all. :victory: :mrgreen:
Wow! i can usually only justify about 30 minutes @ $100 (impressive!)