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2010 crdi engine bay noise.

Misha · 41 · 13563

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Offline Misha

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After many swear words, and much perseverance, I managed to strip the torx 30 nut well and good, bent the good torx socket, and gave myself a sore back.

So its been a good night  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

@h20melon  do you remember what bolt size, length, and thread it was for the tensioner pulley ? I will need a new one when i get around to/figure out how to remove my current one  :crazy2: :crazy2: :crazy2:
  • 2010 DIESEL 1.6lt CRDi (BUILT MAY 10), AUTO SLX FD5DSLX16D31, black


Offline h20melon

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Hi Misha,

Sorry to hear that about your belt replacement troubles.

Yes I took my tensioner off the car and put it in the vice to work on.  Unfortunately I cannot remember what size bolt it is for the pulley, but when you get it off you should see the end of it just level with the back of the tensioner.

The bolt has locktite on it so heating could help. I cut a straight groove in the head as I too had stripped the torx and used an impact driver to loosen the bolt.

Hopefully this helps.

The tensioner is attached to the engine with 2 bolts that are deep enough away from the body to get a socket in to undo.

Btw: if your old pulleys are Metal, keep them and just get new bearings for them rather than the whole thing. When I replaced my pulleys I bought a set of bearings ready for the next change for about $10 per bearing (and they all have the same size bearing too).
 Well on my car anyway.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2019, 12:48:37 by h20melon »
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Offline Misha

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So due to not being able to get the tensioner pulley off, even with a vise and impact drill. I ordered : :link: Dayco Automatic Belt Tensioner APV2764 | eBay

Looks the same, but upon closer inspection the springs and pulley look in different location. It looks like it tensions in the oppisite direction :/ . Did i get the wrong part ( dayco APV2764 ) ?



I havent put it in yet as it looks like it tensions in the other direction ?


Side note looking at the alignment with both the drive belt on and off, the drive belt tensioner looks like its 2-3mm out of alignment (going outwards):
I put a long hex key to poor man see if things are aligned, and putting the straight long key on the other 2 idler pulleys and sliding it down, it catches on the tensioner pulley by 2-3mm. So this may have been my problem all along..... mabye




***Second side note : the new Dayco APV2764 tensioner pulley has a torx 40 bolt right hand thread(I'm thinking m8, 1mm maybe) FYI.
***The new bolt had no Loctite on it, so probably a good idea to put a bit of Loctite blue on there just in case.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2019, 22:26:14 by Misha »
  • 2010 DIESEL 1.6lt CRDi (BUILT MAY 10), AUTO SLX FD5DSLX16D31, black


Offline tw2005

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Misha

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
  • 2010 DIESEL 1.6lt CRDi (BUILT MAY 10), AUTO SLX FD5DSLX16D31, black


Offline tw2005

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative.  My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.

So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.

  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline nzenigma

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative.  My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.

So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.

And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly.  :crazy1:

Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.

Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:

Taipei.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Misha

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative.  My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.

So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.

And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly.  :crazy1:

Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.

Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:

Taipei.

It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.

Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together   :drinks:
  • 2010 DIESEL 1.6lt CRDi (BUILT MAY 10), AUTO SLX FD5DSLX16D31, black


Offline tw2005

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative.  My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.

So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.

And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly.  :crazy1:

Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.

Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:

Taipei.

It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.

Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together   :drinks:

yeah.   :whsaid: 13hr + flights. @nzenigma
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline nzenigma

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What your seeing is an old pulley untensioned, and a new pulley fully tensioned with a locking pin. This is the best way to work with the belts having the tensioner locked and loaded out of the way.

keep the pin and I'd keep the old tensioner, l maybe try again, even if you end up drilling it off. Likely never going to need another, I replaced mine for no reason early on chasing a seized clutch pulley on the alternator.

also for anyone else you  can get a genuine one for about the same as the Dayco online, I'll have to check if they're still available

After using my brain and discovering the pin that was right in front of me i had no troubles. Fits good.



Bad news, the distinct original noise is still there.
Just a lot more clear now as the pulleys aren't drowning it out  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
This is when you tell yourself all that work was good preventative.  My gut tells me it's similar to what I had, likely a bit of timing chain noise over the guides. I never stripped my motor down to check it out, it ran fine otherwise.

So unless you can find someone who knows exactly what it is and whether it's serious enough to need attention, you may just have to accept it.

And if you guys had taken my advice, we would probably know exactly.  :crazy1:

Mind you, Ive only only used the hose stethoscope technique for about 30 years, so who am I anyway.

Enigma ends hissy and exits left. :spitty:

Taipei.

It looked like you guys where just having fun off topic previously in the thread, so i completely grazed over and forgot about it tbh.

Not to fret, or hissy, just come down south for a casual 13hr drive and we can have a look together   :drinks:

yeah.   :whsaid: 13hr + flights. @nzenigma

13 hrs being pampered by a Taiwanese Godess . I suffer for you all. :victory: :mrgreen:
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Dazzler

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13 hrs being pampered by a Taiwanese Godess . I suffer for you all. :victory: :mrgreen:
Wow! i can usually only justify about 30 minutes @ $100 (impressive!)
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