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Jitters Over Firty's Revival

The Gonz · 64 · 13919

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Offline The Gonz

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OK, guys, I'm still overseas and a month away from getting Firty out from under her cover and off her jackstands.

This long and far away from her my brain has gone to mush and I fear it all turning to custard on the 22nd of December.

- I expect the only sensible thing to do is to give her a new dose of oil there and then while she is still off the floor in the shed and before cranking her over, so I'll have to:

- - take whatever oil SuperCheap has suitable,
- - be prepared for the Diesel conditioner additive to have given out and drain and fill,
- - be prepared for a dead battery and have another ready,

- Within two weeks (across Christmas  :crazy1:) if not ahead of time I'll need to source the Aranda towbar and fit it in order to fill a trailer with stuff that's still in Adelaide, for the drive to Melbourne.

So, to all the FD i30 pundits and experts out there (Hello @Phil №❶ / @cruiserfied  :clapping:), what am I forgetting?

Responses in English, Indonesian or Spanish gratefully accepted. :whistler:
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Offline Phil №❶

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Pity it's not a petrol engine as I would be pre-lubricating the cylinders with a little oil through the plug holes first but that is not possible.  Subject to @cruiserfied's approval, there may be an appoved aerosol lube you could inject into the inlet manifold, after the air cleaner to do the same thing. I thought you had the battery on continuous charge  :exclaim:

Can't think of anything else. Don't worry, she'll be right. :goodjob2:
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Offline asathorny

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Very wise, oil degrades whether or not it is being used, so changing the oil is a must  :goodjob:

good luck although I am sure luck will play no part in the restart  :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:


Offline cruiserfied

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You've about got it covered i recon.
I agree with Phil about some oil in the cylinders before startup. I would remove the glowplugs and put a bit in through there (if your game trying to remove them) turn it over a few times by hand before refitting glowplugs and don't be too worried about a bit of smoke on startup.
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Offline Dazzler

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Good luck Gonz!  :sweating:
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Offline eye30

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Just to be safe...... allow herindoors to gave firty first turn of the key........and you should stand well back.....

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Offline tw2005

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You've about got it covered i recon.
I agree with Phil about some oil in the cylinders before startup. I would remove the glowplugs and put a bit in through there (if your game trying to remove them) turn it over a few times by hand before refitting glowplugs and don't be too worried about a bit of smoke on startup.

Us Aussies have it covered.

First for the injectors



Then maybe some threats letting Frugal Firty know if it misbehaves it'll cop some medicine.



Probably not for diesels though

Maybe something more refined



But I think this could get something  started too.


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Offline Doggie 1

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Offline The Gonz

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Thanks, guys. I emailed my son for some help and advice and am hoping he'll get involved in the effort (he's a Holden dealership trained motor mechanic).

If only to source oil filter, oil and any specific tools I'll need on the day and ahead of the Christmas paralysis, I'd be happy for his help. I could do it all online and paid so he just gets it, I guess.

So I've read 5W30 full synthetic is the way to go? Is that a sweet spot for price/spec? I'm assuming 0W40 is just better but unrealistically expensive, right?
Any hot tips on the right oil filter? Happy to deal with eBay types while in Spain to have it ready on time.
Tools for oil filter removal and sump plug? Something any mechanic would have or is there anything special?
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Offline beerman

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obviously the oil filter has to go, but what about the diesel filter?

If so this might be of interest

:link: GENUINE HYUNDAI i30 DIESEL FILTER KIT (AIR+OIL+FUEL)FD,GD2 1.6L WITH TAXINVOICE | eBay

Otherwise, this is cheapest (unless you want 3, then there is a guy with 3 for $69.90 that I usually use)

:link: GENUINE HYUNDAI I30 HATCHBACK 1.6L CRDI DIESEL ALL MODEL OIL FILTER 1EA | eBay
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Offline The Gonz

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I do like to save through a bit of bulk buying, so the threesome* I would favour. Please share and I'll get it going. :happydance: :hatoff:

Thanks for the head start with the Diesel filter. Never would have come to mind. Firty has 86,000 km and 7 years, so unless I'm told otherwise, I'll do that, too. :victory:

*no lewd remarks ,guys :crazy1:

EDIT: Oh, I just noticed the kit is a ... full kit - oh yes, that's just perfect. :winker:
« Last Edit: November 19, 2016, 07:13:50 by The Gonz »
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Offline beerman

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That being the case mate, the first link is air/oil/diesel filters for around $90.

If your that close to 90k might as well do the service in my humble opinion.

Here is the link for the bulk buy $69.99

:link: 3 X GENUINE HYUNDAI i30 DIESEL OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE WITH TAX INVOICE | eBay
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Offline CraigB

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Gonz, is it cheaper for your son to order the whole kit through his workshop at wholesale cost :undecided: he's Holden but they do service all vehicles.

A 5W-30 or 5W-40 are the best viscosities for your car, 5W-30 will be slightly more expensive but has better fuel saving advantages.


Offline The Gonz

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Thanks, Craig. I'll ask. I didn't think about any savings through dealer ordering. :goodjob:
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Offline The Gonz

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Son has continued to be typically absent in my inbox.  :'(
$92 well spent, goods arriving in the next week at the outlaws. :goodjob:
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Offline sundiz

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Brakes do not usually like when car has not been moving. When I bought my car it had been standing for few months in the dealership. Front discs were so rusted and the pads were slightly seized that they had to replace the front brakes before they gave the car to me.
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Offline CraigB

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Brakes do not usually like when car has not been moving. When I bought my car it had been standing for few months in the dealership. Front discs were so rusted and the pads were slightly seized that they had to replace the front brakes before they gave the car to me.
That's what happens when cars are left out in the weather unused, I think Gonz's car is tucked away under cover having a nice sleep :)


Offline Lakes

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Gonz , that great little CRDi FD would never let u down M8!!!
Good luck, i've used tbe WD40 in plug hole many times also have adjusted push rods off to leave  motor stand without valve springs  compressed but she has OHC still the oil i  bore a good thi g just turn her o ed go pump it out b4 firing up. I would warm her up with oil she has in now the  drain it give oil change put new battery i  as cheap & better than putting work load on regulator


Offline The Gonz

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So now the seller has taken my money but withheld the product until I provide a VIN :crazy1:

Firty's in storage in a different country! :crazy1:

Apparently a 2009 1.6 CRDi SLX has more than one type of oil filter. :crazy2:
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Offline sundiz

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I think there are 2 different filters. 120mm and 104mm  versions. I bought wrong size, when not paying attention in the shop. Had taken oil out and started to wonder why the new filter did not fit the housing...
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Offline Asterix

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So now the seller has taken my money but withheld the product until I provide a VIN :crazy1:

Firty's in storage in a different country! :crazy1:

Apparently a 2009 1.6 CRDi SLX has more than one type of oil filter. :crazy2:

Don't you guy's down under have anywhere you can look up a car's VIN from the license plate..?
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Offline AlanHo

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So now the seller has taken my money but withheld the product until I provide a VIN :crazy1:

Firty's in storage in a different country! :crazy1:

Apparently a 2009 1.6 CRDi SLX has more than one type of oil filter. :crazy2:

Is there not anyone who can access the car's paperwork.  In the UK the VIN No is stated on the original registration document.
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Offline Shambles

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Isn't it also stamped on the chassis, visible from a viewport in the windscreen? Maybe someone could do a screengrab of that.
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Offline eye30

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Or by quoting the reg number will id the correct part.

(Well it does in uk)
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Offline Dazzler

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Ring the dealer you bought it from Gonz they should be able to get it from your rego.
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Offline The Gonz

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I emailed the storage manager to look. Still no response. :blubber:
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Offline tw2005

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I emailed the storage manager to look. Still no response. :blubber:

I could just give you mine however is this seller being a tosspot or what? All i30 D4FB post 19 feb 2008 right up to the end 2012 they have 263202A500 or in RYCO speak R2695P

Where are you getting this gear from?

I have a 30 Sep 2008 build  and a 24 mar 2010 build , both have 263202A500
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Offline tw2005

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So now the seller has taken my money but withheld the product until I provide a VIN :crazy1:

Firty's in storage in a different country! :crazy1:

Apparently a 2009 1.6 CRDi SLX has more than one type of oil filter. :crazy2:

Don't you guy's down under have anywhere you can look up a car's VIN from the license plate..?

varies state to state but in Queensland you can get the VIN from the REG, In South Australia you can't, In Victoria you can get every detail, VIN engine number etc, in New South Wales it will reveal the last 4 characters but you can handover $22 for a full report, no surprise there, Western Australia shows just the expiry as too Northern Territory, Tasmania give engine number no VIN, ACT only last 4 characters on both engine nmber and VIN
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Offline tw2005

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AC DELCO AC0113 equivalent to  263202A500 or  RYCO  R2695
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Offline tw2005

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28mm socket for oil filter cap removal.

REPCO have 40% off Penrite this weekend if you can muster the troops to pick up if you have not got the oil yet. Also 30% off batteries

I use 10W40 . I think given it's summer and pretty high ambients doing long distance I'go with xW40 plus both of mine  are ove 170k

Valvoline and Penrite show 5W-40 as preferred

The manual shows the 5W30 and 10w30 capping out at 40c

Mobil suggests 0W40,5W40
Shell 5w30,
« Last Edit: December 03, 2016, 19:38:21 by tw2005 »
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