[mrexcitement]

Hey Guys and gals.

From this topic 2010 1.6 CRDI hot weather starting. , I don't know why but I couldn't add to it so I am starting a new topic.

I decided to do this after reading this i30 2009 FD CRDi Glow Plugs

I just replaced the 4 glow plugs on my I30 FD CRDI which has done 240,000 kms now , I purchased the glow plug ages ago but was reluctant to do it due to being afraid of snapping them on removal.

I shouldn't have been worried , I just did this and couldn't believe how easy it was to do and had no issues at all removing them , I did squirt wd40 penetrant and then go for a quick drive to warm the engine then when I got home I squirted some more and while removing stuff to get to the glow plugs I kept squirting more.

The hardest part was actually removing the heat shield for the turbo as the bolts were quite hard but again some wd40 numerous times and they eventually came loose and then it's a pain getting the heat shield out , it just seems to get stuck as you try to remove it but I got there in the end , it took me just over an hour to do the whole job.

The glow plugs themselves were easy , the first one I removed was a bit sticky (closest to the coolant reservoir) but the rest as soon as I loosened them with the ratchet just unscrewed by finger very easily.

As it turns out the one that was a bit sticky and required the ratchet to remove most of the way was the one that was faulty and open circuit , the rest measured fine with the multimeter.

So I had one faulty glow plug and the rest seemed fine.

I don't know yet if it's fixed my starting issue when the air temp is warm but I am pretty confident it has , time will tell and it's summer so it won't take long before I know for sure and I will report back to confirm it has.

Below is the old glow plugs and I was surprised at how clean they were , the one on the left is the faulty one and you can see it's just black on the end whereas the working ones have a tan tinge to the ends.

[Shambles]

Nice work fella

[mrexcitement]

Oh and this is the video I used to see what I had too remove to get to the glow plugs

How to Replace Hyundai i30 Glow Plugs. Hyundai Diesel Engine Glow Plugs. Hyundai i30 Hard Starting - YouTube

Cheers

David

[The Gonz]

As Hancock would say, good job.
The colour difference takes me back to when Haynes manuals were useful. The shading was shown in pictures to show sparkplugs looking black for rich or unburnt fuel while the light end of the spectrum was for a lean mixture. Ah the days of the HQ Kingswood!

[mrexcitement]

Well it hasn't totally fixed the warm start issue , it has improved it but it still can take 2 attempts to start when the air temp is hot and the misfire that occurs after the second start is nowhere as bad as it was , so there has been improvement , but not actually fixed , I mean I can live with it as it always starts just some times not on the first go when the air temp is hot.

I checked the 80 amp glow plug fuse when I changed the glow plugs but it is fine and not blown.

[Nev75]

I recently had the glow plugs changed in my i30 also (a couple of months ago). I used the same video that you also used to gather the info, then gave it to the mechanic to suss out. I wasn't overly happy with the mechanic's work:
- he didn't feel the need for the heat shield to come off. In fairness, he was able to change over all plugs despite the heat shield. Unfortunately, the plug that is most obstructed by the heat shield he didn't get back in properly, and it caused stuff to come leaking out when using the car.
- I eventually was able to get him to come back and sort out the leaking issue. The leaking was stopped. However, this time it was really struggling to start up. I tried to get mechanic again, but he went AWOL. In the end I decided to give it a crack. The issue I have is that it's a much easier job if you are tall. Whereas me being 5'7 made it hard to reach over the engine to see the plugs. I found though what I could do was rest my stomach on the plastic on top of the radiator, and I was then able to get to the plugs well enough. Doing a number of multimeter tests I realised that the mechanic had shorted the conductor bar on the engine block, causing the 80A fusible link to blow. So I re-seated the conductor bar, replaced the fusible link, and the car was much better
Just like yourself, of the original plugs only one was open circuit. And again just as you are finding, it starts up better now, but still taking a bit longer to start up then it should. In my case I believe it's the battery. It's less than a year old, Century branded. Looking through the hole, it has the green colour, which normally indicates that the battery is good. However, whenever I start it up with my TOPDON jumpstarter, it starts perfectly each time. Whereas without the jumpstarter, it takes longer to start if I haven't used the car for say greater than 12 hours. I do wonder though if there is something using the battery too much when the car is off. I did install an Android-based stereo last year, maybe that is causing a drain.

[The Gonz]

I do wonder though if there is something using the battery too much when the car is off. I did install an Android-based stereo last year, maybe that is causing a drain.

Thanks for sharing, Nev. A very reasonable suspicion worth checking by isolating accessories such as the stereo to watch for improvement. There was also mention recently about leaving the climate system in A/C mode and the A/C clutch remaining energised, yet another example of a possible energy drain overnight.

[Nev75]

Thanks for sharing, Nev. A very reasonable suspicion worth checking by isolating accessories such as the stereo to watch for improvement. There was also mention recently about leaving the climate system in A/C mode and the A/C clutch remaining energised, yet another example of a possible energy drain overnight.

A bit of a late reply, but thought I would update in case the info is helpful. I tried pulling the fuses for the stereo, but that didn't make much difference in regards to the battery drain. Just recently I think I found the issue. For a while now I have had the steering knock issue, and also the ESP OFF light was on, and the EPS light was blinking. I didn't realise this could cause battery drain until I read a post on here that when this issue occurs the power steering can keep sapping power even with the ignition off. Hence I went and did the steering coupler replacement. I was hoping I could hire someone to do it for me, but I wasn't sure who had the experience with it, so I decided to have a crack myself. It was a pig of a job, that steering column is very heavy. I somehow managed to get it done, thanks for sold preparation watching YouTube videos. (I've read in some forums that some people say they can do the complete coupler changeover in 25 minutes ... they must have super powers!). The existing steering coupler was disintegrated to hell. After changing the coupler and putting all back together - thankfully the knocking was gone and the steering was working fine. I used a relatively cheap OBD2 dongle to perform the APS calibration and clear fault codes. All annoying dash warnings gone. I have since found that the battery drain issue seems to have gone, and getting less (if any) nasty burnt diesel smell out the exhaust.
Just in case anyone is interested, the OBD2 dongle I used for the i30 APS and codes clear is the XTool A30M. For a tad over $200, it has many functions and works with many models of vehicles. It works via a phone app, connecting to the dongle using Bluetooth.