[scuzz]

Hi everyone,

I'm changing all the brakes on my Automatic 2014 1.6 diesel i30 and I cannot for the life of me remove the front brake disc. I've done this job on manual cars before.

I've removed the two screws on the disc, removed the m8 bolts at the back  below where the caliper bolts go as I saw that on a manuel online, and still stuck hard!

Am I missing something? I've tried putting the gearbox to neutral instead of park but nothing changed either.

Thanks in advance for any help!




image uploader

[Lorian]

sharp tap from behind. rubber mallet if re-using them. make sure its secure and you dont knock it off the jack/axel stands

[sundiz]

Probably just rusted badly to the hub. I had to use sledge hammer when I did my rear brakes first time... Little penetrating fluid between hub and the disc may also help a bit.

[BrendanP]

I'm going to have to do the same on my partner's car soon, the front discs have been on for 70,000 miles and are close to minimum thickness. It'll probably require penetrating oil and a few whacks with a lump hammer. The centre hole in the disc has to be a very close fit to the hub, so it doesn't take much corrosion between those mating edges to make the disc stick. When tapping it from behind, rotate the disc to try and keep it square to the hub as it starts to budge.

I once owned a 1996 Mondeo and the front discs had seized on so tight that I had to give up and take it to a garage for them to change the discs and pads.

[scuzz]

Yea thanks everyone, turned out I just needed to vent a bit more frustration with my hammer blows to crack it off 

Second problem i don't think the driver side disc has ever been touched, worn worse and the mounting screws rusted solid. Going to try a blowtorch today and faIling that will have to drill them out I think.

Does anyone bother keeping those screws on? they just seem like a pain!

[sundiz]

Penetrating fluid and impact screwdriver did the trick for my brakedisc screws.

After removal I put a little bit of brake grease to these screws. They have been a delight to remove after first fight.

[Lorian]

impact  driver on the screws. i just use a manual one like this - just make sure its set to "undo" before belting it with hammer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hilka-11670013-Impact-Driver-2-inch/dp/B003OUUQX4

[BrendanP]

I had to drill out the heads of the disc retaining screws. I never bothered replacing them, they just help to retain the disc before the wheel is put back on, unless you're the sort of person that wants to attach a dial test indicator to measure disc flatness. As you've discovered, after the discs have been on for a while, they hold themselves on with rust.

[BrendanP]

As an update, I did replace the front discs on my partner's car and yes, they did need a good smack with a lump hammer to break them free of the hub. As I'm right-handed, I turned the steering all the way to the right to give as much room as possible to swing the hammer. I also held a thick piece of wood against the wheel studs to push back against the hammer impact. Fit new discs after cleaning off as much rust and scale from the hub with a wire brush.

My next job is to clean up the wheel studs with an M12 x 1.5 die to clean the corrosion off. Lately, the wheel nuts have been quite stiff to do up and squeak horribly as they turn.