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Oil Light Issues

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Offline Digby Jones

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Hello,

I recently bought a Hyundai I30 2010 Trophy, ( Petrol 2.0lt, 5spd manual ) about 4 weeks ago.  It has 90,000km on the clock.
I have noticed the oil light staying on after startup, and sometimes it goes out quickly, other times it takes a long while 30+ seconds.  Once it didn't go off for over 60+ seconds.  On the way to work the other day, I was stopped at a set of traffic lights and the oil light was flickering on/off, but went off completely when I revved the engine.  I was concerned, but thought it may be an oil sensor ( I have checked the oil level and it was fine ). 

I took it to my mechanic for a full service ( oil changed ), also to change the timing belt/water pump.  I specifically mentioned my oil light issues and to check it out.

After all the work was done, he stated the car was in good condition, the oil was still golden before he changed it.  So he didn't think it was the oil pickup, he changed the sensor and took if for a test drive.  No oil light has come on.  He mentioned if the engine was starved of oil it would be knocking and I would notice pretty quick.

I have had it back for a day and a bit, I haven't seen the oil light come back on when idling on traffic lights.  However, on startup it can still take a some time to go off.  The engine does sound different when running just after startup, but no knocking, so I am still concerned.  If I leave it parked for 15minutes or so, then come back in and start it up, the oil light goes out straight away.  If I leave the car sitting for 1-2 or more hours, the engine light can take some time to go out.  So I don't think the issue is fixed.

Just to note, the temperature gauge does not climb, it stays just under half way, I have not seen it above this on long drives. ( as temp can climb for poor oil circulation ).  I bought this privately, so no warranty.

Does anyone know what could cause this issue, or is it known in FD I30's?

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Offline Dazzler

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 :welcome: Sorry to hear that.  Can't really explain that, but my gut feeling is that it's not serious. You sound like you've done all the right things so far. We have a few tech heads that may have a better idea though.
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Offline sundiz

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If you have obd scanner (with live data), you could read the oil pressure during startup and idling. My previous car had oil pressure gauge and it took sometimes few seconds before the engine was able to build the pressure up. Not a minute though...

What kind of oil are you using?
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Offline Digby Jones

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Don't know what it was running previously, but the mechanic has replaced it with shell Helix Plus Semi Synthetic
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Wagon, Petrol 2.0, Manual, Blue


Offline Digby Jones

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The OBD scanner maybe a good idea.  I was going to put an oil pressure gauge on it, but you can get bluetooth scanners that transmit to a phone app.  Did not know they existed.  I will have to make sure they are compatible with my car

:link: ELM327 OBDII OBD2 CAN-BUS V1.5 Bluetooth | eBay

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Offline CraigB

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The OBD scanner maybe a good idea.  I was going to put an oil pressure gauge on it, but you can get bluetooth scanners that transmit to a phone app.  Did not know they existed.  I will have to make sure they are compatible with my car

:link: ELM327 OBDII OBD2 CAN-BUS V1.5 Bluetooth | eBay
Bluetooth ones are pretty average at best but maybe all you require :undecided: personally I'd go with cable type models though they're more expensive https://www.toolmart.com.au/sp-sp61150.html


Offline eye30

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At start up do the revs climb to the cold rev level or are the revs just around the normal idle level?
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Offline Aye30

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Hello,  Can someone confirm for the OP if the FD  2.0L has a variable oil pressure sensor. It is my understanding that all we got was the red light which comes on if not enough pressure. Torque lite and pro is not showing an option for oil pressure, maybe the cable types can see more?  But my thoughts on the light coming on at low idle, and  not  going out for long periods after starting is a worn oil pump. It could be generating just enough pressure to turn of the oil light. When the oil is at its cold viscosity the pump could be having problems forcing the thinner oil through worn gears , and when at temp the thicker oil is less likely to be leak past worn gaps. The fact that the mechanic  drained clean oil,  suggests the previous owner replaced it  just before sale. (just before the timing belt replacement service)    So can anyone let the OP know if he gets  an ODB reader will it read oil pressure, or is a mechanical oil pressure gauge the only way to check  pressure on an FD 2.0l I30.


Offline tw2005

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Yeah, I think I'd be nervous. You're not going to see any pressure data in a scan and if I was a "qualified "mechanic and had this presented I'd be putting a gauge on it and getting some real time readings of what's actually there.

At Op Temp expected values, Engine oil pressure at 1500 RPM
[Oil temperature is 90 to 110°C 194 to 230°F)]
 245KPa (2.5kg/cm², 35.5psi)

AYE30 could be right in suggesting oil pump. There was one for sale recently in QLD with an oil light issue which they had changed out the oil and still persisted.

Resultant pump failure and engine damage so if it can happen to 1 petrol FD certainly could happen to others.

The other thing I'm wondering is are there any blocked galleries.

I have the diesel but regardless across the board and oil light lit should only be momentary at startup and never seen again. The only time mine stays on a bit longer is after and oil and filter change and only because the filter is empty.

And guess where the pump  lives, at the front end of the crank so to work on it the timing belt would need to be removed(as well as the sump)

So I just did a quick Ebay search based on the Oil Pump assembly number 2131023002 and up came all these kits. Can't say I've ever seen an oil pump as part of the timing belt kits, water pumps and bearings yes I have.  Note it's Gates belt with korean aftermarket parts added it would appear.

Pump Only Genuine from Koraps $80 USD plus freight

Does this mean these are known to have pump issues? maybe




« Last Edit: December 02, 2017, 21:20:58 by tw2005 »
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Offline tw2005

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The OBD scanner maybe a good idea.  I was going to put an oil pressure gauge on it, but you can get bluetooth scanners that transmit to a phone app.  Did not know they existed.  I will have to make sure they are compatible with my car

:link: ELM327 OBDII OBD2 CAN-BUS V1.5 Bluetooth | eBay
Bluetooth ones are pretty average at best but maybe all you require :undecided: personally I'd go with cable type models though they're more expensive http://www.toolmart.com.au/sp-sp61150.html

The grossly overpriced one I got from Jaycar worked ok on the 2010 CW and on my 2008 hatch it caused serious dramas and malfunctions with the computer. affected the transmission(auto) operation, so back it felt it was going to break something
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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks for the oil pump info Gerard.
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Offline Digby Jones

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Yes, it does start at higher revs when cold, settles down to about 750-800 after a while.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Wagon, Petrol 2.0, Manual, Blue


Offline Digby Jones

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Thanks for the help.  I will keep an eye on it.  It doesn't happen all the time which is annoying, but the mechanic should have put a pressure gauge on it.  Even if he did it might have been alright when he measured it. 
It doesn't happen all the time.  It might be best to just get the oil pump changed.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Wagon, Petrol 2.0, Manual, Blue


Offline tw2005

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Thanks for the help.  I will keep an eye on it.  It doesn't happen all the time which is annoying, but the mechanic should have put a pressure gauge on it.  Even if he did it might have been alright when he measured it. 
It doesn't happen all the time.  It might be best to just get the oil pump changed.

Without real data it's guesswork. If pressures are normal then you'd look at the sender, if the sender has been replaced and the pressures are normal then that becomes interesting. There is a relief valve built into the pump. If that was sticking that could cause pressure issues too I suspect.
I don't think i'd do the pump unless I had some data first.

Excessive bearing clearances would cause oil pressure loss but I think if it was that bad you'd know there'd be some bad noises. Never had the pleasure of that so can't comment first hand.

I have mixed up some main  bearing caps resulted in bearings being chewed out and oil light coming on back in 1984 on a 3K Toyota engine.
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Offline The Gonz

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back in 1984 on a 3K Toyota engine.
ns
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Offline tw2005

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back in 1984 on a 3K Toyota engine.
ns
If only I was that young then, I'd be in better condition today.
 :judges:



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Offline Dazzler

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Offline mickd

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Thanks for the help.  I will keep an eye on it.  It doesn't happen all the time which is annoying, but the mechanic should have put a pressure gauge on it.  Even if he did it might have been alright when he measured it. 
It doesn't happen all the time.  It might be best to just get the oil pump changed.

Hi, if you decide to go ahead with pump change,  change the pick up as well.
Had a mitsu L300 4wd that would bring oil light on if revved over 2000 rpm when cold.
Fine under that when cold, fine when hot.
Mechanic used compressed air and water and dishwash liquid looking for leaks.
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Offline CraigB

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Sounds like a similar problem a friend of mine recently had with their 2012 Lancer and oil light staying on, after Mitsubishi having the car for two weeks and all checks performed they were telling them it was going to cost $4000 to fix :crazy1: they ended up taking the car to my mechanic friend down the road and got the oil pump and pickup changed for $700 and problem fixed, apparently the Lancer oil pump replacement kit alone is $600 :faint:


Offline The Gonz

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The RAAF had a Lancer as one of our runabouts last time I was posted to Adelaide. I was struck by how boring it was, especially when I thought it had an attractive front end. The drive put me off.

The answer is not a Lancer.
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Offline CraigB

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The RAAF had a Lancer as one of our runabouts last time I was posted to Adelaide. I was struck by how boring it was, especially when I thought it had an attractive front end. The drive put me off.

The answer is not a Lancer.
Yeah I'm not overly fussed with the look of them, the interiors are quite boring too.

The 2ltr engines in them go like the clappers though :Drive:


Offline tw2005

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The RAAF had a Lancer as one of our runabouts last time I was posted to Adelaide. I was struck by how boring it was, especially when I thought it had an attractive front end. The drive put me off.

The answer is not a Lancer.

Not everything that has an attractive front end is exciting. Sometimes you have to live with it for the rest of your life. :Pout:
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Offline Dazzler

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The RAAF had a Lancer as one of our runabouts last time I was posted to Adelaide. I was struck by how boring it was, especially when I thought it had an attractive front end. The drive put me off.

The answer is not a Lancer.

Not everything that has an attractive front end is exciting. Sometimes you have to live with it for the rest of your life. :Pout:

Yeah, I found that out when I had my mid life crisis.  :disapp:
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Offline The Gonz

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 :confused: We're not talking about cars any more, are we?

I don't know, call me psychic. :lol:
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