[ferguscan]

Hi all,

Recently I was fixing my (ex-)mechanic's botched attempt to delete my clutch damper.

And I found the arm which connects the master cylinder to the clutch pedal has come completely loose.  See attached image.

Is this normal?  I can put the clutch system back together, and the arm will be held in due to pressure in the line.  And it will probably work.  But it doesn't feel right, or safe.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks,

Stuart

[tw2005]

I don't know what was removed or what here but to my knowledge that rod should just go through the boot and rest on a plate that drives the piston. maybe there's a guide hole it goes into, maybe slide the boot back so you can see.



the other end should then attach to the pedal with a rod, washer and spring clip. Assuming pedal height has not been messed with i expect it should then be how it was and not an issue.

I assume there's a return spring on the pedal too??

best i can do as I have not pulled my master out or push rod out yet.

[ferguscan]

Yeah, there is a guide hole at the end of the cylinder.  The rod can rest there.  When the system is properly filled with fluid, everything seems to work, and the rod doesn't slip out.

There's no effective return spring on the pedal.  It seems to rely solely on push-back from the hydraulic system.

My main question is: should the rod actually be attached to the master cylinder, or should it be easy to remove (as in my example)?

[tw2005]

Yeah, there is a guide hole at the end of the cylinder.  The rod can rest there.  When the system is properly filled with fluid, everything seems to work, and the rod doesn't slip out.

There's no effective return spring on the pedal.  It seems to rely solely on push-back from the hydraulic system.

My main question is: should the rod actually be attached to the master cylinder, or should it be easy to remove (as in my example)?

looking at the exploded views just sits there. How did you go bleeding? Did the pedal go to the bottom and just sit there with no return?

that's what mine does, makes bleeding somewhat painful.

[ferguscan]

looking at the exploded views just sits there. How did you go bleeding? Did the pedal go to the bottom and just sit there with no return?

that's what mine does, makes bleeding somewhat painful.

Thanks.  Where can I find the exploded view?

[tw2005]

Factory manual.  Or try Googling for an image. They don't tell you how to build a master so it's not great or exact.

[ferguscan]

OK, it's definitely not supposed to be detached

I bought another master cylinder from a wrecker, with the push rod properly attached, and installed it.

Removal/installation isn't too hard, but the factory instructions are lacking.  You have to:

- Remove fluid from clutch hydraulics.
- Disconnect everything from the master cylinder in the engine bay.
- Remove side dash cover (driver's side), where the fuse panel is.  This simply un-clips.
- Remove lower dash cover.  Two screws at the bottom corners, and a few behind the aforementioned side cover.  Have to un-plug a few connectors.
- Remove driver's feet air vent.
- Disconnect master cylinder push rod from clutch pedal (held on by clip + washer).
- Disconnect sensors on clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove two bolts and two screws from master cylinder mount (in driver's foot well).  These hold down the bottom of the clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove two nuts from the top of the clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove entire clutch pedal assembly (you might have to remove one of the sensors from the assembly entirely, in order to get it out).
- Pull master cylinder out through the driver's foot well.

Reverse steps to install the new one.

I found bleeding to be tricky.  The clutch pedal didn't really do a good job.  I used a Motive power bleeder, with the Euro car attachment @ 5 psi.  I used it for pressure only (didn't actually use it to move any fluid).  It didn't seal perfectly, but well enough.

Clutch pedal feel great now, and shifts are smooth.

I will report back again, when I've driven it a while.

[tw2005]

OK, it's definitely not supposed to be detached

I bought another master cylinder from a wrecker, with the push rod properly attached, and installed it.

Removal/installation isn't too hard, but the factory instructions are lacking.  You have to:

- Remove fluid from clutch hydraulics.
- Disconnect everything from the master cylinder in the engine bay.
- Remove side dash cover (driver's side), where the fuse panel is.  This simply un-clips.
- Remove lower dash cover.  Two screws at the bottom corners, and a few behind the aforementioned side cover.  Have to un-plug a few connectors.
- Remove driver's feet air vent.
- Disconnect master cylinder push rod from clutch pedal (held on by clip + washer).
- Disconnect sensors on clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove two bolts and two screws from master cylinder mount (in driver's foot well).  These hold down the bottom of the clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove two nuts from the top of the clutch pedal assembly.
- Remove entire clutch pedal assembly (you might have to remove one of the sensors from the assembly entirely, in order to get it out).
- Pull master cylinder out through the driver's foot well.

Reverse steps to install the new one.

I found bleeding to be tricky.  The clutch pedal didn't really do a good job.  I used a Motive power bleeder, with the Euro car attachment @ 5 psi.  I used it for pressure only (didn't actually use it to move any fluid).  It didn't seal perfectly, but well enough.

Clutch pedal feel great now, and shifts are smooth.

I will report back again, when I've driven it a while.

interested in any images of waht was wrong or errors made if that rod is meant to be fixed to the unit.

[ferguscan]

interested in any images of waht was wrong or errors made if that rod is meant to be fixed to the unit.

** No pics I'm afraid.

There is a rubber stopper near the top of the clutch pedal.  When the pedal is released, it comes into contact with an adjustable bolt, and limits the pedal's upward travel.

Prior to my ownership (I think), someone removed that stopper.

As a result, I think that whenever the clutch pedal was released, it was placing tension on the push rod.  Eventually it got pulled right off the master cylinder.

[tw2005]

interested in any images of waht was wrong or errors made if that rod is meant to be fixed to the unit.

** No pics I'm afraid.

There is a rubber stopper near the top of the clutch pedal.  When the pedal is released, it comes into contact with an adjustable bolt, and limits the pedal's upward travel.

Prior to my ownership (I think), someone removed that stopper.

As a result, I think that whenever the clutch pedal was released, it was placing tension on the push rod.  Eventually it got pulled right off the master cylinder.

Hmmm, interesting. maybe they were trying to extend the stroke?

[ferguscan]

interested in any images of waht was wrong or errors made if that rod is meant to be fixed to the unit.

** No pics I'm afraid.

There is a rubber stopper near the top of the clutch pedal.  When the pedal is released, it comes into contact with an adjustable bolt, and limits the pedal's upward travel.

Prior to my ownership (I think), someone removed that stopper.

As a result, I think that whenever the clutch pedal was released, it was placing tension on the push rod.  Eventually it got pulled right off the master cylinder.

Hmmm, interesting. maybe they were trying to extend the stroke?

** Stroke can be extended by adjusting the bolt.  I have NFI why they removed the stopper