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LED Rear Lights - Korea

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Offline Thumper

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Quote from: "EymaTeapot"
I have had the pleasure of seeing thumpers car with all mods in person, looks great :evil:

Hehehe, I knew she would! *Grins*

Now you know how bright the HiD low beam is, and the colours it produces.  8-)

Quote from: "Hemmi"
My led lights have the same reflectors as the original lights, are there any other led lights with no reflectors?

Yes, I have seen many that are clear, thus either have no reflectors or white reflectors.

In the past many retrofit LED tail lights didn't have any reflectors in them. Looks like most today (If not all) have been manufactured properly.


Offline davet

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Quote from: "Thumper"
Totally changes the look of the i30.

More images to come.

These look fantastic (as well as the debadging!)

sorry if I'm thick but I'm assuming that these are the Korean-originated items referenced in the first post on this topic???????

Thanks,
Dave


Offline Thumper

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Quote from: "davet"
I'm assuming that these are the Korean-originated items referenced in the first post on this topic???????

Thanks,
Dave

Correct.  8-)


Offline L30N

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I liked the look of these LEDs too.
Do they work with/include the rear fog lights?


Offline Thumper

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Quote from: "L30N"
I liked the look of these LEDs too.
Do they work with/include the rear fog lights?

Not sure, since Australian vehicles do not come with that function (Rear fog lights) hence I can not test that for you.  :|


Offline teamgeorge

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Im a fan of LEDs but they don't look that flash to me, might need to see more pics before i'd consider them.  :)


Offline Nessa

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WOW!! Thumper thanks for the pics!! more please!!!

Ermm..sorry got a bit too excited there...

I really like the look of the LED lights. When I saw it on ebay, I was unsure about the black part at the top, but it really blends in, regardless of whether the car is black or not. I really really want them now..Very BMW Series 2-ish...very awesome!


Offline Rubix

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Quote from: "Thumper"
So far, two favorable votes (One from an i30 forum member, the other, another i30 owner not on the forum, yet)
Make that like 20 now. I like that look way better than the stock i30 look. I even nearly didn't consider buying an i30 because of the standard lights!

Quote from: "Thumper"
I'm going to mod the LED lights, so that only the lower portion comes on for tail light function, then upper and lower comes on for brake light.
Does that mean standard install of the replacement lights would have all red LEDs on just at different intensity or ?? And can you tell me how you do this when you do?


Offline Thumper

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Quote from: "Rubix"
Quote from: "Thumper"
So far, two favorable votes (One from an i30 forum member, the other, another i30 owner not on the forum, yet)
Make that like 20 now. I like that look way better than the stock i30 look. I even nearly didn't consider buying an i30 because of the standard lights!

Quote from: "Thumper"
I'm going to mod the LED lights, so that only the lower portion comes on for tail light function, then upper and lower comes on for brake light.
Does that mean standard install of the replacement lights would have all red LEDs on just at different intensity or ?? And can you tell me how you do this when you do?

I'm now being stopped in the street and asked what kind of Hyundai it is (Is it a special model?) and where did I get the lights from?  :lol:

Unfortunately the entire circuit is PWM for brightness levels. There is only two wires going to each LED array inside the lights. On parkers, there is a low voltage, on stop light a higher voltage.

The top part of the lamp is clear when off, but red when on. I was going to mod it so the top part only came on when the stop lamps are used (Kinda like a secondary eye level brake light)

Alas, I would need some form of circuit added inside the lamp to make this happen. (I really don't have the time to figure that out, just yet)

More photos of the lamps in operation in the photo thread: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1493


Offline Rubix

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Quote from: "Thumper"
Unfortunately the entire circuit is PWM for brightness levels. There is only two wires going to each LED array inside the lights. On parkers, there is a low voltage, on stop light a higher voltage.

The top part of the lamp is clear when off, but red when on. I was going to mod it so the top part only came on when the stop lamps are used (Kinda like a secondary eye level brake light)

Alas, I would need some form of circuit added inside the lamp to make this happen. (I really don't have the time to figure that out, just yet)

More photos of the lamps in operation in the photo thread: https://www.i30ownersclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1493

PWM = ?? Not too good with acronyms
From the picture ouri30 posted - the ebay link - there's only 1 green wire going to the top - so would that mean the brake pedal is sending more power to the lights to make them brighter, and the headlight switch is sending a lower power charge through that same wire? Wouldn't that mean you'd have to separate the driving lights wire from the brakes wire at the dash console? Or if you put a resistor in, it would dampen the brightness of the top brake light so that they didn't go on when the driving lights are on... maybe I should have paid more attention to circuitry in Science class...


Offline Thumper

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Quote from: "Rubix"
PWM = ?? Not too good with acronyms
From the picture ouri30 posted - the ebay link - there's only 1 green wire going to the top - so would that mean the brake pedal is sending more power to the lights to make them brighter, and the headlight switch is sending a lower power charge through that same wire? Wouldn't that mean you'd have to separate the driving lights wire from the brakes wire at the dash console? Or if you put a resistor in, it would dampen the brightness of the top brake light so that they didn't go on when the driving lights are on... maybe I should have paid more attention to circuitry in Science class...

"Pulse-width modulation (PWM) of a signal or power source involves the modulation of its duty cycle, to either convey information over a communications channel or control the amount of power sent to a load."

Both the tail lamp and brake light wires go into the PWM module inside the lamps. There is only two wires to each LED array, positive and negative.

The LED's are not powered continuously, they are pulsed on and off quickly. So quick that your eyes can not see it. (You can see the flicker of an PWM driven LED sometimes near the edge of your peripheral vision, or if you turn your head quickly whilst looking at the light source)

Now the LED's are pulsed at a slower rate for tail lamp (Low powered mode) then are pulsed at a higher rate (High powered mode) for tail lamp, brake light operation.

By putting a resistor on the line could cause issues with the circuit that the top half will not light up during tail lamp only mode, then light up at half brightness during stop light mode. (Also the resistor itself will start to heat up)

Only way I can see to get around this is to get another PWM circuit, feeding it with only the brake light wire, then feeding the output of it to the top LED array.

The other wires you see in the photos are for the reverse lamps and indicator lamp. (The green and black wire to the square box is for the indicator circuit, it creates a false load, so the indicator relay does not flash quickly. Most common problem when using LED's for indicators)

Hope this helps.  8-)


Offline Rubix

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I know this is like teaching physics to a 5 yr old for you, I'm probably stating (and missing) the obvious ("So, the apple falls down instead of up?") but I'm enjoying the lesson.

At some point between the pedal-and-dash and the wires in the picture, the brake and tail lights wiring would come together, so that only the single green and black wires needed to go into the back of the LEDs... If you kept them as two separate wires all the way from the pedal-and-dash, then you could put both to the bottom, but only the brake ones to the top. That's probably the most difficult way of doing it... and yet easier for me who doesn't know how to take the LEDs part apart and mess with PWM thingies


Offline i30 Roolz

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Hey there Thumper - can I be so rude as to ask what these cost?

Can a mechanical simpleton (i.e. me) fit them?

As usual with your mods, well chosen and looks great!! Nice work M8.


Offline Thumper

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Hey there Thumper - can I be so rude as to ask what these cost?

Can a mechanical simpleton (i.e. me) fit them?

As usual with your mods, well chosen and looks great!! Nice work M8.

No problems.  :cool: They cost me all up AU$375 since I purchased them when our exchange rate against the US$ was VERY favorable!

Very easy to fit. If you can change a tail light bulb, and use a 10mm socket + Phillips head screwdriver, then you can fit these lights. (I'll be surprised if you take longer than 340mins each side, to hook up and fit)

Cheers, they are something different.  :cool:


Offline L30N

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OK, so I got some rear lights the same as Thumper. Pleased with the look (will post some pics soon) and fitted them at the weekend, nice and easy.
The only problem is despite connecting the supplied load resistors, the indicators flash twice as fast as they should (affects the front indicators and side repeaters too). Could it be a bad connection or faulty resistor box? The hazards flash at the correct speed. I'm just a bit paranoid driving around at the moment!


Offline Thumper

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OK, so I got some rear lights the same as Thumper. Pleased with the look (will post some pics soon) and fitted them at the weekend, nice and easy.
The only problem is despite connecting the supplied load resistors, the indicators flash twice as fast as they should (affects the front indicators and side repeaters too). Could it be a bad connection or faulty resistor box? The hazards flash at the correct speed. I'm just a bit paranoid driving around at the moment!

Make sure the green and black wires from the load box are plugged in properly. (One of mine wasn't, received the dreaded quick flash)

Double check the connections.  :cool:


Offline L30N

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Make sure the green and black wires from the load box are plugged in properly. (One of mine wasn't, received the dreaded quick flash)

Double check the connections.  :cool:

Thanks Thumper you're a genius - that was exactly the problem, the connectors to the load boxes were both dodgy. I put new connectors on tonight and all is now hunky dory  :)


Offline Thumper

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Yeah, quality control from the country on manufacture is not their strong point!  :mrgreen:


Offline Treddy85au

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