[Simon112]

Evening team, I am looking to replace my handbrake cables. Does any one know which product code I need in eurocarpsrts? For 2014 1.6 (D) i30 tourer with a manual handbrake.

[Shambles]

Evening team, I am looking to replace my handbrake cables. Does any one know which product code I need in eurocarpsrts? For 2014 1.6 (D) i30 tourer with a manual handbrake.

Hi. Try entering your VIN into the form at partsouq.com and see what part number comes up.

[BrendanP]

Just out of interest, why are you replacing the cables? If the ends have snapped off, or some of the wire strands have broken or rusted through, fair enough. If the handbrake is slack, and you think it's because the cables have stretched, it could be a problem with the caliper. The cables are pretty chunky and unlikely to stretch that much. Also, if your car is 2014 it should be a GD, not an FD. FD is the 1st generation i30 built from 2007-2012.

[Simon112]

Thanks for the info team. The cables seem to be fine, I've adjusted the cables inside the car still no luck. It's gotten worse since I replaced the pads (they were very low  )

I put it all back together and the caliper piston operates when the mechanism is operated (on both sides). I have twiddled with the nuts on the cable themselves but they don't seem to do anything. On my old nissan you could had to adjust the cable on the cable its self ( if you get my meaning?)

So my last point of call is the cables have stretched we have some seriously steep hills around me and when pulling away I would have to raise the level way above normal parking clicks to get enough bite in order to pull away. Espically when it was fully laiden.

If there's any other way I am open to suggestions espically if it saves money lol 

[BrendanP]

Fair enough. My car has done 78,000 miles and I haven't touched the handbrake adjustment under the centre console. The caliper automatically adjusts for pad wear so the adjustment under the console should only be necessary to compensate for cable stretch. If you've just fitted new pads the handbrake may not grip so well until the pads have bedded in.

On some web-sites I've looked at for aftermarket cables, they give dimensions for the length of the outer tube and the length of the inner cable. What matters is the difference in length between the outer tube and inner cable, so if you can measure your cables you'll know if they've stretched and by how much. This image is a cable for my car which is a hatchback, yours might be different.

[BrendanP]

I also posted a video on YouTube showing how to check the handbrake operation. You can see the amount of lever movement for the caliper when it's working properly. If the movement you're getting is a lot more, could be the caliper at fault.

Hyundai i30 GD manual handbrake check - YouTube

[eye30]

As you say the caliper is free and working have you tried adjusting the rear brake shoes within the rear brake disc.

On the rear when you remove the wheel there is a hole in the disc.

Of you look through it and rotate you will see a rotating screw which adjusts the hand brake pads.
May need to shine a light in the hole as it is very dark to see it.

Pull hand brake up to 4 notches and adjust by rotating the screw.

See if that helps.

Ps
Just changed the handbrake shoes, pads and disc on my son's fd.
We had a problem getting the shoes to sit and turned out the lever operated by the cable, although free on the outside, was just not moving inside.
A good clean did the job.

[Simon112]

Hey Brendan, thank you very much for the advise and the video. I have the same lever travel which a positive I hope.

I wait a little longer for the pads to bed in, its only on steeper hills that its not holding.

I have tightened the thingy behind the  handbrake I would say a good 8mm from where it started and a good 12mm from the beginning of the thread.

Is it a pain to thread the new cables? And do you know if its easier to remove the centre console? If I can figure it out 😆

[BrendanP]

Replacing the cables and taking the console out are jobs I've never done, so I can't really comment. If you are able to adjust the nut on the handbrake adjuster to obtain the correct tension in the cables, that should be enough. On the previous FD model it should take about 22 kg force to pull the lever up by 7 clicks. In the GD handbook it says 20 kg to pull up 6 to 8 clicks.

This is where luggage scales come in handy.

[Simon112]

Afternoon team. So a quick update. Its been a week or so of daily driving the handbrake failed it mot this morning  I popped off the wheels and breaks to make sure the lugs were located on the pads they had slipped.

Realigned them but it still won't hold at 6 clicks not bad at 8. The caliper mech has full movement and the adjuster when wound in is holding the cable hooks off the back stop so that's working.

I am our if ideas, do you think its new caliper time. But I cant tell which side I would need to replace they both work 

So is it time to replace the cables after all 

[BrendanP]

If you put the handbrake on and look at the arm that the handbrake cables are attached to (under the centre console), does it sit at right angles to the threaded rod that the handbrake lever pulls on? It should do. If it now sits at an angle, this should mean that the cable on the side closer to the front of the car has lower tension in it, or has to move further to achieve the same tension. That side would have the faulty caliper. I would support the car on axle stands so you can take both rear wheels off. Take a length of wood that you can place between the wheel studs and pull on the end with luggage scales to see how much torque it takes to turn the wheel against the handbrake. If there's an imbalance between the two sides, the side with the lower force is probably at fault.

I'm not sure what can go wrong. The piston has a freewheel clutch mechanism that lets the piston move outwards under hydraulic pressure as the pads wear, but it can't move backwards along the shaft with a lead screw in it, the shaft which the handbrake turns. The leadscrew pushes the piston out as the shaft turns to put the handbrake on. The clutch allows the piston to automatically adjust to compensate for wear. If there's a problem with that clutch it may allow the piston to slip back further than it should. I've seen caliper repair kits that include the piston, but I don't know if it includes the clutch part.