i30 Owners Club

Handbrake right problem ?

j0n21 · 12 · 5101

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline j0n21

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 15

    • be Belgium
      2
Hi there !

I've a problem with my right brakes, more precisely the handbrake.

For a month, i've been hearing a noise when i brake. Most of time after a long travel (1h of driving) or shorter trip but with a high use of brakes.

I looked on the brakes and the brake pads and disk are still good (replaced just before i bought the car in october 18). But when i pull the handbrake stick to almost the end (8-9 clicks) the rear left is stuck but i can move the rear right wheel.

It's a i30 GD so the parkingbreak are on the calipers.

Yesterday i opened the caliper and bought a box with a tool to push back the piston but i coudn't find the correct head to match the piston (a circle with 2 holes) and the direction to pull back the piston (left or right ?)

The glide pins are moving well too.

Could you guys tell me what things i can check please ?

I already tightened the handbrake cable under the armrest but i read that usually we don't really need to adjust it.
And here, the cable is tied to the caliper so i suspect the caliper to not moving very well so this is why i want to know how i can push back the piston with the tool i bought, after that i will be able to see if the piston move back and fore nicely.

I've very hard to find so videos or pictures with explanation about i30 mechanic..

Thanks a lot to the people who read this post and sorry for my english ;-)












  • 2012 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manuel, White


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
Your English is fine. I can't help, but hope somebody can.  Quite likely I reckon.  :goodjob:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
You are correct, no need to adjust handbrake cables..

GD has some issues , especially on Euro roads, with the water and salt getting into the rear caliper, causing it to bind up.

WD40  the mech and apply some grease.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline xiziz

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 444

    • se Sweden
      Varmland, Sweden
Liberal use of a wire brush, a file(to remove stubborn rust) and some copper grease (not on the friction surfaces ofc) on the part where the pads and the brackets touch. The piston pushes back in clockwise i seem to recall, the tool is a little bit of a hassle to get into the right place but when its aligned it should be easy enough to push back(although i have needed to use a wrench on the nut to give it some more leverage rather than just the handles on the tool, I think there just for getting it into position).

My tool looks like this, for standard abs brakes.


My rear brakes have gotten stuck twice, even with regular maintenance, there just not used enough.
  • Ioniq Electric MY2019 88kw


Offline j0n21

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 15

    • be Belgium
      2

Here's the tools I've.



I don't know if the right tool is for the right side and the left tool is for left side. Maybe it depend on vehicles. The right push clockwise and the left push counter-clockwise. For the head, the number 6 or the the "f" on the picture can works but it's not a perfect fit.

I will look at this tomorrow or next day.
So what I've to check is if the Piston goes in and out easily?
How I can do that ? Push the brake slowly to get it out and push back with the tool a few times ?
I've to bleed the brakes too ?
Which things I can look or tests I can do to check  the parking break ?



Thanks !
  • 2012 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manuel, White


Offline xiziz

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 444

    • se Sweden
      Varmland, Sweden
Should be okay doing something like this link, don't need to bleed the brakes unless you disconnect the hoses, the F should do the trick if it fits, attached a picture of mine with a ruler, don't think mine is a perfect fit either. I don't think the piston would be the problem, but just resetting it, pushing it all the way back in and then pumping the brakes once everything is in its place again (not before or the piston will be pushed out!).

:link: HOW TO: Brake service - Glide pins and cleaning

  • Ioniq Electric MY2019 88kw


Offline j0n21

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 15

    • be Belgium
      2
So I looked on the brake, I did what I saw on your post exept put some grease on  the glide pin ( I didn't know what kind of grease I should use).
I pushed back the Piston clockwise, i was scary cause sometimes it was like the Piston was stuck so I wasn't sure about the direction.. I hope I didn't do something wrong.

Anyway I certainly did something wrong cause know my parking brake (fully  raised) doesn't brake my right rear wheel at all and and my left rear wheel is hard to turn but I can move it too...

So I thing I'm gonna go to a mechanic cause I don't want to do more problems here and brakes are important. But I'm very frustrated to not be able to fix that.
  • 2012 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manuel, White


Offline xiziz

  • V.I.P
  • *
    • Posts: 444

    • se Sweden
      Varmland, Sweden
Seems very odd that they don't bind at all, did you pump the brake pedal after having the pistons pushed in? In my guide I don't push the pistons in so they should end up in the same place, but when they have been pushed back you need to pump em back out(after reassembly ofc, else they will be pushed out all the way).

You should use silicone grease on the glide pins. Otherwise the rubber will swell if using a petroleum based one and the brakes will bind. (just remove them if they swell, they only stop a groaning sound, not needed for safe operation). Should be enough grease on them already if they moved freely.
  • Ioniq Electric MY2019 88kw


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
just a thought, the slots on the piston i believe need to line up with  a pin on the inner pad backplate.

  I could be wrong saying this but that would lock the piston and when the lever is applied operates a thread which would drive the piston out and lock the brake.
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich





« Last Edit: May 28, 2019, 08:06:42 by tw2005 »
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline j0n21

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 15

    • be Belgium
      2
Sorry for my late answer ! So I went to the garagist last week and you have right.
My Piston and the inner pad were not lined up so it couldn't work.. too bad I saw you're post after he fix it ^^

At least, I know how it works now and I would be able to replace my brake pads later by myself ;-)

Thanks again !
  • 2012 GD 5 Door Hatch, Diesel 1.6lt, Manuel, White


Offline Dazzler

  • Admin
  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine...
    • Posts: 67,423

    • au Australia
      Devonport Tasmania

  • Best Car Forum on the Net
Sorry for my late answer ! So I went to the garagist last week and you have right.
My Piston and the inner pad were not lined up so it couldn't work.. too bad I saw you're post after he fix it ^^

At least, I know how it works now and I would be able to replace my brake pads later by myself ;-)

Thanks again !

Thanks for getting back to us and acknowledging the help as well. Good to hear it is sorted.  :goodjob:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal