[tw2005]

Thanks everyone! I'll get under the car and have a look for it

Is it recommended that I change the fluid as well? Is there a particular type I should buy?

Probably going to be easier from the top especially if there is a splash guard under the engine bay. It's going to be centred on the box side.

Fluid, , what does the book / cap say? Dot 4?

[tw2005]

Just checked what I have used, DOT 4. Never a bad idea doing a flush every now and then as this fluid is hydroscopic. One of those things often neglected,

[Doggie 1]

I had those issues of the OP but it kept getting worse to the point where I couldn't engage first or reverse and the clutch take up point was immediately off the floor.
So last week a new clutch went in at 231,000 kms.
Drives like a new one now. Well, better actually, because the gearbox is not as tight as when new and changing gears is like a knife through butter and no more grinding going into reverse. 

[DragOn]

Hi all,
just weighing in on the subject as i had just come across the same issue on my sons 2009 FD petrol manual 2.0l, 120 000 Kms. If the GD manual has the same damper, this may help.

We had just purchased the car for him as his first car, and to get his manual licence.
The clutch was releasing/engaging about 2cm from the floor, and gear change was stiff/rough. The clutch itself was engaging properly so i did not suspect the clutch assembly was at fault.
After looking at various posts & videos, the conclusion was a faulty damper.

So 2 weeks ago I removed the assembly with the damper (just 1 clip and 1 pipe) and removed the damper whilst the assembly was on the bench.
I bought an engine sump plug to replace the damper. I had to order it in from Covs, as my local Supercheap did not have the size I needed on the shelf. It was a 16mm X 1.5 pitch.
Cost me around $14.00.

I replaced the assembly and bled using DOT 4 brake fluid.
**Hint** When bleeding, use a length of clear plastic tube over the end of the nipple, hanging down to a drain tray. This stops the fluid from making a huge mess. Also note that brake fluid is better than paint stripper at removing paint, so wash off any spray/splashes ASAP.

The end result is the pedal engages and disengages much higher up the pedal travel, and gear shift is smoother.
I will change the gear box oil soon, as it has probably never been done.

As a side note, i did look around for a replacement assembly/ damper but the cheapest I found was over $250.00. 
There was also different assembly's depending on if it was LH or RH drive. LH drive was the most common, but different part number and shape.
BUT, the damper itself looks the same, and can be purchased for a lot cheaper than $250.00.

I found this one: CLUTCH Hydraulic Regulator Ass'y for Kia / Hyundai 416902H100 REGULATOR ASSY CLUTCH for elantra HD 2006 CEED 2006 I30 I30CW 2007-in Clutch & Accessories for under $80 AU. I could just swap the new damper to replace the old one.
I have not decided as yet whether to get it or not, as the clutch feels fine at the moment.

[Paolo5]

Does anyone know if the part that DragOn listed (or any other part listed somewhere else) fits an FD?

[DragOn]

Hi Paolo5, I believe the parts for the FD are as follows. For LHD or RHD.
The one I linked in the post above is for the LHD, but the damper itsef should be the same.

Thanks to tw2005 as I borrowed some some pics.
More info on the subject in other posts on the forum.
Clutch engaging too low.
I30 clutch master cylinder

[Paolo5]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

[tw2005]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

[tw2005]

H100 is LHD

[Paolo5]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

[tw2005]

41690-2H900

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I don't understand what you're trying to say. 41690-2H900 is fitted to the manual diesel RHD and that's using my VIN as well

[DragOn]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I just picked an excerpt from the list of vehicles as an example. It fits a RANGE of i30's.
I found the list here: https://kia.7zap.com/en/gen/ceed/seurped06/06:pt1,/mi/4141611/#41690

[Paolo5]

41690-2H900

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I don't understand what you're trying to say. 41690-2H900 is fitted to the manual diesel RHD and that's using my VIN as well

Got it...thanks.

It is $410 from Hy Australia. 

Do you know if this part is the same as
TUCSON 06-10 SPORTAGE 06-10 GeNuiNe CLUTCH REGULATOR 416902E070 | eBay

Thanks,
Paolo5

[Paolo5]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I just picked an excerpt from the list of vehicles as an example. It fits a RANGE of i30's.
I found the list here: http://kia.7zap.com/en/gen/ceed/seurped06/06:pt1,/mi/4141611/#41690

That link doesn't open for me...

[tw2005]

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I just picked an excerpt from the list of vehicles as an example. It fits a RANGE of i30's.
I found the list here: http://kia.7zap.com/en/gen/ceed/seurped06/06:pt1,/mi/4141611/#41690

That link doesn't open for me...

It's messed up,

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER (01/02) KIA CEED 06 (2006-) [General]

[tw2005]

41690-2H900

Hi DragOn,
Many thanks for that.

It shows that the RHD part is for the 2 litre petrol i30...wonder if the diesel has the same part.

41690-2H900

I squinted and read the fine print. It doesn't include diesel...just 2000cc MPI engine. 

I don't understand what you're trying to say. 41690-2H900 is fitted to the manual diesel RHD and that's using my VIN as well

Got it...thanks.

It is $410 from Hy Australia. 

Do you know if this part is the same as
TUCSON 06-10 SPORTAGE 06-10 GeNuiNe CLUTCH REGULATOR 416902E070 | eBay

Thanks,
Paolo5

That's to be expected, normally about 4 times what they really cost. There should be laws against it.

I would not be surprised though it the big scheme of things you could unscreww the valve portion and fit to the original if that body was wrong.

Or bypass the darn thing.

Because it's a RHD part you can't get it throughthe Korean outlets, but what if you just get  the LHD variant and unscrew that valve and put it on yours? It has to be the same valve because it's doing the same job on the same specced equipment, just that the wheel is on the wrong side.

The only difference is our assembly clamps on a plastic connector, the LHD is threaded pipe,

So for $50 USD from Koraps  or about $72 + the new 10% duty you can have one, then swap that valve portion over

[Paolo5]

Great advice...many thanks!

[tw2005]

 
Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

[Paolo5]

Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

$3.30 from Mopar!!!!!!!? 

[tw2005]

Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

$3.30 from Mopar!!!!!!!? 

Maybe , if available. Not entirely surprising, if MMAL quotes $20 here then that means it bloody cheap somewhere else.
My other favourite grey supplier is AMAYAMA, $12 but $15 freight means it's cheaper from the dealer.

[nzenigma]

Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

WoW! been a busy girl tw. 

Dragon was saying that pumping the pedal improved the clutch operation. That would indicate that air is in the system. In his case, just bleeding should solve the problem.
Thats not to say that Im against fitting a new damper or blanking it off .

Also, I have my doubts that the damper has much to do with saving transmission damage. Its a creature comfort issue. (ie Pussy Drivers   )

The damper does the same thing as a dual mass flywheel,  smooths the underfoot vibration.

There have  been  complaints by new 4x4 owners that Toyota, Nissan etc are fitting light duty clutches.
Again, its a nicer drive for the Wet Lawn 4x4 ers. But...
They stuff up when towing or off road. When the clutch heats up, it kills the dual mass flywheel.
Many owners then go to a solid flywheel and HD clutch.

As discussed with Dazz, the i30 DCT box  is driven by a dual mass flywheel. I watch with interest. 

[tw2005]

Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

WoW! been a busy girl tw. 

Dragon was saying that pumping the pedal improved the clutch operation. That would indicate that air is in the system. In his case, just bleeding should solve the problem.
Thats not to say that Im against fitting a new damper or blanking it off .

Also, I have my doubts that the damper has much to do with saving transmission damage. Its a creature comfort issue. (ie Pussy Drivers   )

The damper does the same thing as a dual mass flywheel,  smooths the underfoot vibration.

There have  been  complaints by new 4x4 owners that Toyota, Nissan etc are fitting light duty clutches.
Again, its a nicer drive for the Wet Lawn 4x4 ers. But...
They stuff up when towing or off road. When the clutch heats up, it kills the dual mass flywheel.
Many owners then go to a solid flywheel and HD clutch.

As discussed with Dazz, the i30 DCT box  is driven by a dual mass flywheel. I watch with interest. 

Maybe, pumping repeatedly may also mean the diaphram in the damper is not fully relaxing and build up more pressure ? When I left the tractor laid up, I thought air too, but no amount of bleeding would fix it and the damper bypass gave instant results. It actuallly deteriorated so bad on a trip home i almost could not select a gear stationary.

The two obvious things to try first would be bleed and/or damper removal

All I know is this little unknown valve is a weak link causing more trouble than it's worth 

[nzenigma]

All I know is this little unknown valve is a weak link causing more trouble than it's worth 

Yep that's what I'm alluding too. 

[DragOn]

Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection

@Paolo5 @nzenigma

WoW! been a busy girl tw. 

Dragon was saying that pumping the pedal improved the clutch operation. That would indicate that air is in the system. In his case, just bleeding should solve the problem.
Thats not to say that Im against fitting a new damper or blanking it off .

Also, I have my doubts that the damper has much to do with saving transmission damage. Its a creature comfort issue. (ie Pussy Drivers   )

The damper does the same thing as a dual mass flywheel,  smooths the underfoot vibration.

There have  been  complaints by new 4x4 owners that Toyota, Nissan etc are fitting light duty clutches.
Again, its a nicer drive for the Wet Lawn 4x4 ers. But...
They stuff up when towing or off road. When the clutch heats up, it kills the dual mass flywheel.
Many owners then go to a solid flywheel and HD clutch.

As discussed with Dazz, the i30 DCT box  is driven by a dual mass flywheel. I watch with interest. 

Hi nzenigma,
hate to be pedantic, but it was the OP not I who had to pump the pedal.
I removed the damper and replaced with sump plug, then bled. Fixed the issue.   

[mickd]

All I know is this little unknown valve is a weak link causing more trouble than it's worth 

Yep that's what I'm alluding too. 

Might get in early and do it the next time Kate comes across in Ruby
 (2012 FD Trophy )   

[nzenigma]

Hi nzenigma,
hate to be pedantic, but it was the OP not I who had to pump the pedal.
I removed the damper and replaced with sump plug, then bled. Fixed the issue.   

Thanks mate, glad it worked for you.

 Easy to be imprecise, sorry.

By the end of the week, Gerard and I have read or worked on a dozen different problems.
We also do real work 7 days a week.

More often than not the exact problem has been covered in several earlier threads. ( this is one of them).
Therefore, we repeat ourselves or provide links to pages that, for some baffling reason, the digital generation is incapable of finding.

I personally have to speed read the posts to get back up to speed.
Im fallible.  But luckily we still have Gerard.

[chrisdarl]

Thanks all for your help and advice. Sorry it has been a while since I updated! I've now removed the 'damper', replacing it with a M16x1.5 plug and bleed the system thoroughly (I took a few pictures so if anyone needs any, let me know). Unfortunately in my case no improvement whatsoever. I still need to pump the peddle and my biting point is right at the bottom. I'm assuming it's the master cylinder that needs replacing.... what do you all think? It looks pretty easy to access.

Hyundai dealers near me want £150 for the part, I'm unable to find it on eBay etc. anyone know of anywhere to get this cheaper in the UK? or any cars that use the same part as the i30 that may make it easier to find on somewhere like Eurocarparts? Just to remind it's a RHD i30 2013 model. I've attached a picture of the part in place, and the closest I've found online (although maybe only for a LHD?) is - http://koreanaparts.ru/sites/default/files/styles/product_medium/public/product/416053Z100KIAHYUNDAI.JPG

On another note, anyone tried replacing the seals in the master cylinder? If they have any can remember the kit they bought, I'd be tempted to give this a go...

Thanks in advance!




UPDATE:
Incase it helps others, Hyundai confirmed the part number for me which I was able to get a genuine new one on eBay for half the dealer price - 41605 3X900.

Hoping that it comes with a couple of new o-rings as I'd like to replace those at the same time. Anyone got any idea of what size those would be? The one that is on the end of the plastic connection (right angle piece coming from the back of the master cylinder) into the damper.

[chrisdarl]

Arrived today, but no o-rings. If anyone does know of the size for the part in my post above and if any particular type of o-ring is needed for hydraulics I'd greatly appreciate the info :-)

[tw2005]

Arrived today, but no o-rings. If anyone does know of the size for the part in my post above and if any particular type of o-ring is needed for hydraulics I'd greatly appreciate the info :-)

if you really want to I could only suggest carefully removing the old o-rings to measure them up. If there's a bearing and seal shop that sells those items individually they may be able to do that. I had an old engine jack that neeeded o-rings and that's what I did.

SInce that damper removal and bleed has done nothing I'm reluctant to really offer too many more ideas, it must be a really weird setup Hyundai runs with or I'm too old fashioned but I've never had a manual car with Hydraulic setup that you could not adjust.

Throwing parts at  it , there's not many to choose from.  I think a few have already mentioned clutch replacement has solved some issues, but one other  thing worth mentioning since this is GD is check to see if there is an oil leak at the bottom of the bellhousing where it mates to the engine block.
 
Someone last week or so had gear changing issues and the gearbox was leaking around the  input shaft, oil contaminated the clutch which also would have caused it to not  release cleanly which then make gear changes difficult.

I'm not confident it's going to be the master if there's no fluid loss or evidence of leaks.