Author Topic: 2009 i30 dashboard background light unstable (Read 14474 times)

pcmc · « November 19, 2018, 10:06:57 »

Hello All,

My i30 dashboard background light becomes unstable and flashes.
Starting up the engine, or even driving for 20 miles make no difference.
It only settles down when the side lights are turned on.

I have uploaded a short clip into youtube:

hyundai i30 Dashboard background light unstable 20181109 121909 - YouTube

Much appreciated for any advice on this.

Regards,
Peter

Dazzler · « **Reply #1 :** November 19, 2018, 14:38:11 »

Hi Peter,

I think from memory this usually equates to a dry solder joint on the panel behight the instruments. But, I am not mechanic so let's see what others say that have had experience with this issue. It has been reported several times on here over the years but been a while. While you wait for replies you could browse the relevant sections or do some searches using key words.

tw2005 · « **Reply #2 :** November 19, 2018, 15:46:28 »

I never faulty found mine, assumed bad LEDs, I've replaced one, and now that one is doing the same.

Here's a shared link for some images.

i30 cluster - Google Photos

Dazzler · « **Reply #3 :** November 19, 2018, 23:52:33 »

Quote from: tw2005 on November 19, 2018, 15:46:28

I never faulty found mine, assumed bad LEDs, I've replaced one, and now that one is doing the same.

Here's a shared link for some images.

i30 cluster - Google Photos

So basically Gerard are you suggesting getting a compatible panel from a wreckers?

tw2005 · « **Reply #4 :** November 20, 2018, 02:29:40 »

Quote from: Dazzler on November 19, 2018, 23:52:33

Quote from: tw2005 on November 19, 2018, 15:46:28
I never faulty found mine, assumed bad LEDs, I've replaced one, and now that one is doing the same.

Here's a shared link for some images.

i30 cluster - Google Photos

So basically Gerard are you suggesting getting a compatible panel from a wreckers?

Likely the cheapest option although it may end up the same. If it is a bad joint I'd like to know as I've kept the old one.

There's quite few variations for these depending on model and features too. also I found after 2010 they must have changed the pin outs as a SLX cluster in my SX with all work except the handbrake and abs lamps remain lit.

If you get a used one, there maybe be people who can copy and write the data across on the EEPROM or if electronically skilled with a solder iron, physically remove it from old unit and fit to new unit and odometer and data will transfer.

The speedo will end up being a project when this one quits as my only spare with 41000k on it will have to go in.

and yet I have 2 otherexample with High K's and 10 year old working perfectly

The Gonz · « **Reply #5 :** November 20, 2018, 03:06:05 »

The messing about I'm doing with DRL wiring and tapping fuses and light cluster pins sure does play havoc with the lighting logic.

During the weekend's DRL work, I was convinced I had somehow damaged the LHS headlight circuit with the globe refusing to light despite healthy fuse and globe. On the next drive it was all good again.

Today both LHS parker and main globes refused to light and the status screen in the dash was flickering sickeningly. A few cycles of the ignition key and it all came good again.

tw2005 · « **Reply #6 :** November 20, 2018, 03:16:29 »

Quote from: The Gonz on November 20, 2018, 03:06:05

The messing about I'm doing with DRL wiring and tapping fuses and light cluster pins sure does play havoc with the lighting logic.

During the weekend's DRL work, I was convinced I had somehow damaged the LHS headlight circuit with the globe refusing to light despite healthy fuse and globe. On the next drive it was all good again.

Today both LHS parker and main globes refused to light and the status screen in the dash was flickering sickeningly. A few cycles of the ignition key and it all came good again.

Are you saying the centre display with th eodometer was flickering? And it only started since you began playing with the car's wiring?

The Gonz · « **Reply #7 :** November 20, 2018, 05:22:34 »

Quote from: tw2005 on November 20, 2018, 03:16:29

Are you saying the centre display with th eodometer was flickering? And it only started since you began playing with the car's wiring?

Yes, and that tells me the BCM is more susceptible to transients upsetting its logic than dry joints causing the problems, although unless you ARE messing with the wiring, dry joints are probably what's creating a rather confusing range of symptoms in the logic anyway. It sure makes diagnosis interesting!

tw2005 · « **Reply #8 :** November 20, 2018, 05:43:47 »

Quote from: The Gonz on November 20, 2018, 05:22:34

Quote from: tw2005 on November 20, 2018, 03:16:29
Are you saying the centre display with th eodometer was flickering? And it only started since you began playing with the car's wiring?
Yes, and that tells me the BCM is more susceptible to transients upsetting its logic than dry joints causing the problems, although unless you ARE messing with the wiring, dry joints are probably what's creating a rather confusing range of symptoms in the logic anyway. It sure makes diagnosis interesting!

Interesting because if the BCM drives that and causes a flicker, means I'm up the wrong tree. And just so happens the Mrs is having a random no unlock on command from the remote which i'm starting to think BCM, maybe time to swap it out with my spare

tw2005 · « **Reply #9 :** December 21, 2018, 04:06:37 »

I've been playing with clusters today and decided to go in DEEP and fully dismantle one.

The following shots are of a cluster that originally had the flickers and eventuallyit simply went dim. Too dim for daytime driving to see clearly , ok at night

Interesting that all except the 3 filament wheat bulbs, are coloured LEDs. I was expecting white LEDs through filters.

You will see the failed LEDs for the display backlight.

Still researching on the web but PLCC-2 SMD LED could what the backlights are.

Dazzler · « **Reply #10 :** December 21, 2018, 04:56:29 »

Interesting. Thanks Gerard.

tw2005 · « **Reply #11 :** December 21, 2018, 05:06:57 »

after some probing, (nothing like a good probe). Of the 5 LEDs unlit, 2 LEDs are open cct, LED 11, LED 12

Removed the 2 bad ones, then repositioned LED 24 to LED 12 resulting 3 additional ones lighting up.

Dazzler · « **Reply #12 :** December 21, 2018, 05:17:59 »

Cool!

tw2005 · « **Reply #13 :** December 21, 2018, 05:25:47 »

Quote from: Dazzler on December 21, 2018, 05:17:59

Cool!

The Gonz · « **Reply #14 :** December 21, 2018, 18:00:32 »

I love a good probing

tw2005 · « **Reply #15 :** December 22, 2018, 00:32:39 »

Quote from: The Gonz on December 21, 2018, 18:00:32

I love a good probing

We don't probe anymore

The Gonz · « **Reply #16 :** December 22, 2018, 00:54:39 »

Oh, a see a cheap supply of compatible SMD LEDs right there!

tw2005 · « **Reply #17 :** December 22, 2018, 01:41:57 »

Quote from: The Gonz on December 22, 2018, 00:54:39

Oh, a see a cheap supply of compatible SMD LEDs right there!

Not too bad but likely better quality and price from RS. Problem is I'm very unsure of dimensions. Even though they give the specs I'm not seeing the size I want.

Anyway, for once I'm in luck . length and width are a match, marginally lower profile, marginally brighter and bluer although some of that could be degradation of the old ones.

So folks if you know what your doing and can solder you're in business. The only tricky bit is getting needles back in correct position, as the dash when powered up for first time after removal it resets the position and it's not at the end stop. So if you position the needles at the very beginning and on the 0 it will be above that mark when it's powered. I got it pretty spot on , off with the Tach by 100 RPM, yet to check speedo but position looked good in comparison to the other vehicles.

tw2005 · « **Reply #18 :** December 22, 2018, 03:41:43 »

Replacing the 2 remaining LEDs has restored full brightness levels. With these faulted brightness was limited to headlights on max brightness levels, not the full intensity with lights off for daytime.

Shambles · « **Reply #19 :** December 22, 2018, 04:05:03 »

There ya go pcmc - now get out your iron & start soldering

(Great work tw

)

The Gonz · « **Reply #20 :** December 22, 2018, 04:51:04 »

You get my RADTECH senses tingling with posts like that, Gerard. Onya, mate!

mickd · « **Reply #21 :** December 22, 2018, 22:54:48 »

nzenigma · « **Reply #22 :** December 23, 2018, 00:17:28 »

Quote from: Shambles on December 22, 2018, 04:05:03

(Great work tw )

Sheer Luck !

tw2005 · « **Reply #23 :** December 23, 2018, 00:23:26 »

Quote from: nzenigma on December 23, 2018, 00:17:28

Quote from: Shambles on December 22, 2018, 04:05:03

(Great work tw )

Sheer Luck !

nzenigma · « **Reply #24 :** December 23, 2018, 00:35:31 »

Quote from: tw2005 on December 23, 2018, 00:23:26

Quote from: nzenigma on December 23, 2018, 00:17:28
Quote from: Shambles on December 22, 2018, 04:05:03

(Great work tw )

Sheer Luck !

Just sent you a nice PM. Cheers mate.

tw2005 · « **Reply #25 :** December 23, 2018, 01:02:13 »

Quote from: nzenigma on December 23, 2018, 00:35:31

Quote from: tw2005 on December 23, 2018, 00:23:26
Quote from: nzenigma on December 23, 2018, 00:17:28
Quote from: Shambles on December 22, 2018, 04:05:03

(Great work tw )

Sheer Luck !

Just sent you a nice PM. Cheers mate.

Dazzler · « **Reply #26 :** December 23, 2018, 02:14:44 »

@Shambles Can you make it so we can read members PM's?

nzenigma · « **Reply #27 :** December 31, 2019, 01:45:44 »

I have the reported intermittent dimming and flicker.

With respect to Gerard, his replacement of two LEDs is great, but given that, in his case, there are ten of them still operating any flicker would be slight.

I believe that the OP's problem probably lies with the chip that dims the display when headlights are on.

The circuit has 12 LEDs , divided into 6 randomly placed pairs. Each pair is powered via a basic zener circuit. It seems that 3 zeners are switched off during headlight operation.

Unfortunately, without a circuit to guide me and the fault being intermittent I ran out of time to go further.
This may help some enthusiast , the notion that it is just a dry joint doesnt play at this stage,

tw2005 · « **Reply #28 :** December 31, 2019, 06:25:32 »

The cluster in these pictures was in fact originally flickering. This went on for some months. Eventually that stopped and it went dim with no brightness control. At that point there were in fact only 7 LEDs working of 12 and no longer flickered. Removing 2 open LEDs and re positioning the others gave me 10. Replacing the 2 missing LEDs then fully retored brightness and dimming control. It no longer flickers.

nzenigma · « **Reply #29 :** December 31, 2019, 15:23:08 »

Quote from: tw2005 on December 31, 2019, 06:25:32

repositioning the others gave me 10. Replacing the 2 missing LEDs then fully retored .......

It no longer flickers.

= pure arse.

Mine no longer flickers too. But..... I wait, its an intermittent fault.

To fault find a fairly complex double sided print board is labour intensive enough. To test and fault find it while it is not powered up is usually futile.

Correct procedure is ALWAYS to leave all fantasy at the door; then make some extension fly leads to give the cluster power. That way you know if the bloody thing is in fail or working mode.

Also helps to understand the circuit