[pellepop]

Hi! Has a problem with the dual clutch  on my Hyundai I30 2019. The car is just over a year
 and has warranty.
About a month ago the car started to twitch/vibrate cold,when i start on the first gear.When the car is hot the problem disappears.Hyundai dealer has  testdriving and examination the car,and created a chase to Hyundai
Sweden about the problem.According to them, it is not an unusual behavior of DCT.I intend to proceed with this, because
i believe that in the nearest new car should not behave this way.They describe that the problem is from moister and dust on the clutch.
  I wonder if anyone else has experienced the same problem?(Sorry about the bad english) / Wondering Pelle

[Dazzler]

Welcome,

Your English is way better than my Swedish. You've explained the issue well. If there is moisture and dust on the clutch then it sounds like a warranty claim to me. The only way they can really refuse a claim on a car of that age would be if there were obvious signs of abuse (constant riding/ overheating of the clutch) or I guess if someone had tampered with it in some way.

Certainly can't recall any other members reporting a similar fault. 

[mickd]

Ah, yes,  that may be the cause , but, HOW is it getting onto the clutch. 
Surely it is not open to the weather and road grime?
Aren't they in a box of some description ? 

I smell Bullshit  !

[Hati]

Pretty sure the PD uses wet clutches...

[mickd]

Pretty sure the PD uses wet clutches...

 
Then it's definitely  BULLSHIT  !

[pellepop]

Nope..its a dry clutch.Heres a link to swedish used carparts dealer   Växellåda Automat till HYUNDAI i30 2017- (W-L463670) - Begagnade delar online

[Dazzler]

Definitely dry clutch. The new upgraded 8 speed heavy duty DCT as is going to be used in i30N and the like is Wet Clutch system though... 

[mickd]

Still Bullshit !

[Boji]

I haven't specifically experienced your issue yet, but I have multiple issues with my I30SR which has same dry DCT.

1. Huge gap between 1st and 2nd gear. And no I'm not talking about turbo lag. The gearbox actually goes neutral for good 1 second before engaging 2nd gear. That 1 second lull is long enough to be dangerous and unsafe when you are in a situation that you need to accelerate.

2. Grind/rattle or whatever noise when accelerating(1st gear) from stop, especially after a long highway drive. The noise starts immediately on acceleration in 1st gear. It's a different noise from worn clutch shudder/slip.

3. Occasional clutch shudder/slip in 1st gear on acceleration from stop. The car has done less than 30,000km.

Do you experience the above symptoms too? Or is there anyone who owns PD with DCT experiencing those?

[Griffy]

3. Occasional clutch shudder/slip in 1st gear on acceleration from stop. The car has done less than 30,000km.

Do you experience the above symptoms too? Or is there anyone who owns PD with DCT experiencing those?

I've noticed my car does it quite a bit especially driving up the underground garage ramp my while the engine is cold, while hot it still does it if I step too lightly from the lights. Not sure if this is a warranty item I could get the dealership tp even look into.

[Pappy]

3. Occasional clutch shudder/slip in 1st gear on acceleration from stop. The car has done less than 30,000km.

Do you experience the above symptoms too? Or is there anyone who owns PD with DCT experiencing those?

I've noticed my car does it quite a bit especially driving up the underground garage ramp my while the engine is cold, while hot it still does it if I step too lightly from the lights. Not sure if this is a warranty item I could get the dealership tp even look into.

Mine does the exact same shudder when going up a slight incline on exiting my garage.
Have mentioned it each time I get the car serviced, of course "no fault found" is the outcome, they do reset the DCT so it "re-learns" which helps a little in the the short term.
Suspect the clutch is wearing out, at least I have a couple more years of warranty to go - will keep persisting on raising this matter at each future service.

[Schumi5]

I have been experiencing very similar issues

2019 i30 n line premium DCT,
first 6 months no issues. All of a sudden on take off there was a loud clunk/bang. "coincidently or not i did have a dash cam installation Hardwired into the fuse box" but im not sure if this clunking was happening before or after.

When taking off I am experiencing what seems to be clutch/transmission slipping. Hard to explain but pretty much when taking off at the lights, slow to take off or after reversing then putting into drive and taking off there is a loud bang/clunk sound as if the transmission has slipped. Transmission feels like it slips into neutral(even though gear 1 is displayed on the dash there is a delay and then you can accelerate as normal again.
It is becoming worse and worse and quite dangerous as when i am on a hill, it has happened before where I accelerate to take off, there is a loud clunk/bang, it engages what seems to be neutral and begin to roll back before the car eventually move forward again. I'm quite worried because a couple of times when i have been on a steep incline that the car behind takes off when i do and has almost rammed into the back of me.

I have taken it to Hyundai and they replaced one of the sensors in the transmission but that has not seem to have fixed anything and the issue still remains.
Trying to eliminate things i disconnected the dashcam which left only the Hyundai Autolink connnected but it still has the same issue but not as bad. Next step i disconnected the hyundai autolink and again it still has the same issue but even less than before and only on the very odd occasion.

Its quite funny because i can actually feel the difference in acceleration and responsiveness when taking off depending on what is connected. e.g when nothing is connected very responsive on take off and through the gears. When dashcam and autolink connected when coming to a halt then taking off shortly after it almost feels like ur in a go kart when taking off again where there is a slow build up to speed(if that makes any sense)

The only thing i can think is there is something electrical that is shorting or affecting the electrics in the transmission. If anyone else has experienced the same issue? or any suggestions as to what it could be?

I am booked in again to take it back to Hyundai in a few weeks and have asked for a loan car as I don't particularly want the car back unless they have resolved the issue. Otherwise we are just going to be going around in circles.

[Boji]

I've got the same response and usual excuse from Hyundai dealer, everything is normal and within the range hence there's absolutely nothing they can do other than relearn. I told them I disagree with them, and they said "go deal with Hyundai Australia then". I can tell you from my experience that raising the issue with the dealer will not do anything other than your warranty running out. They will not budge and I doubt Hyundai Australia will do anything. Could you please keep posting updates of the issues, I am collecting every evidence and case from everyone owinng PD I30sr or n line and contacting Hyundai Korea myself soon. If that doesn't work, I will contact all Korean youtubers and tip all this off so they can broadcast everything to the public. Unlike Australia, there are heaps of youtube channels in Korea specifically dealing with issues of Hyundai cars and nasty customer services from Hyundai, and those channels actually do bother Hyundai Korea. 

[Boji]

3. Occasional clutch shudder/slip in 1st gear on acceleration from stop. The car has done less than 30,000km.

Do you experience the above symptoms too? Or is there anyone who owns PD with DCT experiencing those?

I've noticed my car does it quite a bit especially driving up the underground garage ramp my while the engine is cold, while hot it still does it if I step too lightly from the lights. Not sure if this is a warranty item I could get the dealership tp even look into.

Yep mine does the same, hot or cold. Slow acceleration or on U turn. Local dealership will not do anything other than useless relearn treatment. Please keep posting updates, I am collecting every piece of evidence from every owner of i30sr/n line and contacting Hyundai Australia. If they don't budge I will contact Hyundai Korea, if still doesn't work then I will contact media and youtubers in Korea. Unlike Austalia, there are a lot of youtubers dealing with issues with Hyundai and they do have enough power to affect the mass public opinion and impact Hyundai's sale and reputation enough to budge Hyundai HQ.

[Schumi5]

Firstly huge apologies for not replying any sooner! it seems i don't have email notifications on for replies!!

As mentioned I had by car booked in to get looked at again. After a couple of days of leaving the car there received a call from Hyundai to say there have been some new developments and they had spoken with Hyundai Korea. In order to resolve the issue they were going to replace the transmission oil with new oil from Hyundai. At this point i was very dubious thinking how on earth is changing oil going to make any difference what so ever to what seemed an electrical issue(even the Hyundai service guy i was dealing with dismissed the whole idea).

Anyway low and behold he called the next day saying that the issue has seemed to have gone away and could pick up the car. At this point i still wasn't sure as they had not tested it with the autolink and dashcam all connected so they kept it for another day with all connected and the technician who worked on the car took it home that night and back into work the next day(which i was fine with). He called the next day saying technician had no issues and went through alot of stop start traffic.

Picked up the car that day, they brought the car around, got in, and as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator to take off........... i knew 100% that the issue was finally fixed!
The response of acceleration was totally different, letting go of the break the car was able to immediately move as apposed to before where it would seem to be stuck in neutral, car took off as normal, no gap in gear changes, it was like a brand new car again! On hills previously the car would roll back, now the car holds and able to accelerate with no issues at all. Finally after all this time i am able to enjoy driving the car again.

Interestingly enough, Hyundai called back a week later to make sure the car was still ok and having no issues, i told them all was good and why they were asking.... As it turns out they had a Kona come in recently with the exact same issue, so they were going to do the same fix on the Kona as they had done with mine given my was now ok.

In summary, my guess is they either put the wrong oil from factory, or potentially there was a bad batch/contaminated oil that went into it and looks like that is sill happening as reported with the Kona they received. Your best bet i suggest would be to ask the dealership to change the transmission oil and see if that solves your problem also.

[jezgadi]

Firstly huge apologies for not replying any sooner! it seems i don't have email notifications on for replies!!

As mentioned I had by car booked in to get looked at again. After a couple of days of leaving the car there received a call from Hyundai to say there have been some new developments and they had spoken with Hyundai Korea. In order to resolve the issue they were going to replace the transmission oil with new oil from Hyundai. At this point i was very dubious thinking how on earth is changing oil going to make any difference what so ever to what seemed an electrical issue(even the Hyundai service guy i was dealing with dismissed the whole idea).

Anyway low and behold he called the next day saying that the issue has seemed to have gone away and could pick up the car. At this point i still wasn't sure as they had not tested it with the autolink and dashcam all connected so they kept it for another day with all connected and the technician who worked on the car took it home that night and back into work the next day(which i was fine with). He called the next day saying technician had no issues and went through alot of stop start traffic.

Picked up the car that day, they brought the car around, got in, and as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator to take off........... i knew 100% that the issue was finally fixed!
The response of acceleration was totally different, letting go of the break the car was able to immediately move as apposed to before where it would seem to be stuck in neutral, car took off as normal, no gap in gear changes, it was like a brand new car again! On hills previously the car would roll back, now the car holds and able to accelerate with no issues at all. Finally after all this time i am able to enjoy driving the car again.

Interestingly enough, Hyundai called back a week later to make sure the car was still ok and having no issues, i told them all was good and why they were asking.... As it turns out they had a Kona come in recently with the exact same issue, so they were going to do the same fix on the Kona as they had done with mine given my was now ok.

In summary, my guess is they either put the wrong oil from factory, or potentially there was a bad batch/contaminated oil that went into it and looks like that is sill happening as reported with the Kona they received. Your best bet i suggest would be to ask the dealership to change the transmission oil and see if that solves your problem also.

this seems promising. I haven't experienced the bangs that you have but have an I30 SR 2018 which suffers from low RPM shuddering. Shuddering also happens when I slow down to a crawl but accelerate though it doesn't happen all the time...

I'll be bringing my car in for it's annual maintenance soon. I see you're based in Melbourne, can you tell me which dealership you brought it to?

[Schumi5]

Hi Jez,
I bring my car to Ralph D'Silva Hyundai who are now based in Preston. Not sure if the oil will fix your shuddering but in my experience they were a great help in helping solve and fix the issue.
They could have easily turned around to me and said sorry it's the dash cam as that's when around the time it started happening and seems to be when it was happening the most when that was plugged in.

[jezgadi]

cheers, fingers crossed my dealer will be able to resolve the issues.

[ulysses0271]

Firstly huge apologies for not replying any sooner! it seems i don't have email notifications on for replies!!

As mentioned I had by car booked in to get looked at again. After a couple of days of leaving the car there received a call from Hyundai to say there have been some new developments and they had spoken with Hyundai Korea. In order to resolve the issue they were going to replace the transmission oil with new oil from Hyundai. At this point i was very dubious thinking how on earth is changing oil going to make any difference what so ever to what seemed an electrical issue(even the Hyundai service guy i was dealing with dismissed the whole idea).

Anyway low and behold he called the next day saying that the issue has seemed to have gone away and could pick up the car. At this point i still wasn't sure as they had not tested it with the autolink and dashcam all connected so they kept it for another day with all connected and the technician who worked on the car took it home that night and back into work the next day(which i was fine with). He called the next day saying technician had no issues and went through alot of stop start traffic.

Picked up the car that day, they brought the car around, got in, and as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator to take off........... i knew 100% that the issue was finally fixed!
The response of acceleration was totally different, letting go of the break the car was able to immediately move as apposed to before where it would seem to be stuck in neutral, car took off as normal, no gap in gear changes, it was like a brand new car again! On hills previously the car would roll back, now the car holds and able to accelerate with no issues at all. Finally after all this time i am able to enjoy driving the car again.

Interestingly enough, Hyundai called back a week later to make sure the car was still ok and having no issues, i told them all was good and why they were asking.... As it turns out they had a Kona come in recently with the exact same issue, so they were going to do the same fix on the Kona as they had done with mine given my was now ok.

In summary, my guess is they either put the wrong oil from factory, or potentially there was a bad batch/contaminated oil that went into it and looks like that is sill happening as reported with the Kona they received. Your best bet i suggest would be to ask the dealership to change the transmission oil and see if that solves your problem also.

Hi.
how is the car going since then?? any more issues with the clutch?

[HamishC]

Hi, reading through this forum and specifically your posts last year, we have had almost the identical situation with our 2019 N-Line.  My wife uses this car as a driving instructor vehicle.  when she/student is moving slowly the car shudders violently, like it is about to stall.
We have gone to Hyundai several times. Icare first sent us to an alternative dealer who did several tests, including the flight recordings.  Based on what they discovered, they replaced the dual clutch and fuel injectors.  No difference with the dual clutch, and very little change with the fuel injectors.  the car still shudders.
Went back to ICare you directed us back to the dealer.  more going backwards and forwards including taking them on a trip so we could show them the shuddering.  the principal could see there was a fault and was shocked about how the car behaved. 
Two weeks ago we dropped the car to this dealer who was going to get techs to review.  According to the dealer, none of the techs could find a fault not sure how they drove the car but it needs to be driven slowly to make the car shudder. On top of that, they told us the clutch was worn 60% despite only doing 15000km since the swap over.
The dealer came back and said there is no fault to the car, it was working within "normal" parameters and there was nothing they were going to do.
Almost everyone who drives in the car and experience this fault, including VicRoads testers can see there is an issue.  we have videoed the car when it shudders, we did the flight recordings...apparently all normal. 
would be keen to see how you have progressed and if there are any tips you have for us as we do not accept Hyundai's position in the matter and are looking to take it further.

[dnalor50]

Thanks everyone for all the information about faults with  DCT gearboxs. I have a manual 2015 i30 SR, with synchro problems which I posted about repeatedly on this forum years ago. Needless to say the problem was never fixed by Hyundai and I just live with it. I've sort of forgiven Hyundai over the years (because the SR is a great car, synchro aside) and was planning to upgrade to an i30 N line DCT, but the feedback here is making me have second thoughts. Most reviews rate the Hyundai DCT highly so should I regard the problems here as unusual or higher probability ?