[SafetyChes]

Hi all.

I have an i30 diesel auto. after discovering a bit of a noise. I inspected the drive belt and found it to be slightly loose and flapping about when idling. When I apply revs the noise stops and the belt runs through the pulleys smoothly. 

I’ve replaced the belt but there is still the same issue. I think it’s an issue with the tensioner pulley so I’ve deceived to remove inspect and replace if required. The issue is, I can’t get the tensioner pulley off. Removed the bottom left bolt no problem.  the top right bolt will be come out at there is another pulley in the way.

Can anyone help?

[Greyhound]

@SafetyChes.  It would probably help your case if you posted the model year and cc of your diesel i30. That way people can relate to the specific belt and pully route for that engine.
Also maybe you can post a photo of the offending tensioner mounting bolt that is giving you trouble.

Edit:
This thread on here seems to refer to Kia 1.6 CRDI tensioner exercise. Don't know if maybe any help to you.  Belt Auto Tensioner Bolt Size.

[sundiz]

My new tensioner came with lock pin installed. It kept the tensioner in middle position so it did not Block its own mounting bolts. Have you tried removing the other pulley if it is in the way?

[SafetyChes]

My new tensioner came with lock pin installed. It kept the tensioner in middle position so it did not Block its own mounting bolts. Have you tried removing the other pulley if it is in the way?

I can’t get the torx bit into the bolt as there is a part of the chassis in the way unfortunately.

[SafetyChes]

After trying all day to remove the pulley I've noticed the tensioner it's self requires replacing. it has a major crack along the back. Only problem is. I can't get both bolts out because their is another pulley in the way. I've managed to get it our part of the way but now the head of the bolt can't get passed the other pulley. Any ideas?





You'll see the tensioner in the centre of the image here and the pulley that is in the ay in the top right of the picture.

Please help.

[sundiz]

Normal torx bit will fit to the pulley for removal. Ratchet with torx bit will not. Just put separate torx bit to the bolt and use monkey wrench or spanner to turn it. I've changed that pulley several times with that method.

[SafetyChes]

thanks @sundiz I've now encountered a new problem. The new pulley I have matches the old one. only issue. the supplied bolt and washer are the wrong size. I ordered the part from Euro Car parts using the vehicle reg finder tool. but something is obviously not right. I've emailed them and still awaiting a response. Does anyone know the correct part number for the pulley with the correct fixings included.

No chance using the old bolt as it is now mangled from welding a nut to it after stripping the head.

Alternatively does anyone know where i can get the correct washers and bolt.  Thanks.

[BrendanP]

CRDi means Common rail diesel, innit.

I wouldn't put too much faith in ECP tool for searching by vehicle reg. I'm curious as to which bolt you're referring. The belt tensioner is secured to the engine block with a couple of small screws, and then there's a big bolt that the pulley rotates around. You shouldn't have a pulley on it's own, unless you've bought one of the idler pulleys and not the spring-loaded tensioner. When I search on Euro Car Parts under 'belts, tensioners and pulleys' I think what they offer is an idler pulley, not the pulley that fits on the tensioner.

If you look on a website like PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World and search using your vehicle VIN number you can get drawings of all the vehicle parts along with the corresponding Hyundai part reference. You can then search using that part number to cross-reference the correct after-market part.

On my partner's 2011 diesel the tensioner part number is 25281 2A000, with 25281 2A100 as an alternative. The 2 securing bolts are 1140508286K, or 1140308283 or 1140308306K or 1140508253.

On my 2015 diesel the tensioner part number is 25281 2A600. The 2 securing bolts are the same as shown above.



Is the bolt you mean the one that secures the idler pulley above the tensioner? The original part appears to have a weird recess for a special tool, so I can imagine a torx or hex bit would chew it up. An aftermarket pulley should be supplied with a more conventional bolt head, but have you got the correct idler pulley? I think one of the idler pulley bolts has a left-hand thread because of the direction it spins in. Anti-clockwise rotation would tend to loosen off a right hand thread.

[SafetyChes]

I have an update.

So @BrendanP you are correct. Cant get the pulley wheel on its own, have to replace the tensioner assembly. now comes the next issue. I've seen on another post on the forum that to remove the tensioner you have to remove the idler pulley. However, trying to remove the idler pulley wheel is harder than anticipated. I know that the idler pulley is a reverse thread because of information on the similar post on this forum - (it also makes sense due to the direction of the belt). The other post says to use a small T40 bit with some vice grips remove this bolt. i have tried this will 0% success, the bit just spins in the jaws of the vice grips. I've found a tool from laser tools that looked ideal for the job, T40 bit one end with a 12mm Hex head to fit 12mm spanner to other end, perfect, £40 and some elbow grease later, the bit snaps.

Can anyone offer any advice on how to get this really stubborn idler pulley off. I have tried everything and this is really starting to frustrate me now.

Thanks

[sundiz]

Try to get some penetrating fluid to the threads. One trick is to use chisel and hammer. Try to rotate the bolt by hitting it.

I replaced both idler pulleys in my car. For some reason I remember both of them having normal threads, not reversed. I'll have to check the old ones if I still find them.

This video has normal bolt, but you get the idea.

[SafetyChes]

Try to get some penetrating fluid to the threads. One trick is to use chisel and hammer. Try to rotate the bolt by hitting it.

I replaced both idler pulleys in my car. For some reason I remember both of them having normal threads, not reversed. I'll have to check the old ones if I still find them.

This video has normal bolt, but you get the idea.

Thanks Sundiz,

I don't have the space to be able to do this unfortunately. I'm taking my T40 bit into work tomorrow, i'll ask the welders to weld a nut onto it, hoping that i'll be able to get a bit more leverage on the T40 bit then.

The next step from there will be welding a nut to the bolt its self and then replacing that pulley too.

[SafetyChes]

For some reason I remember both of them having normal threads, not reversed. I'll have to check the old ones if I still find them.

This is interesting, Do you know if there is a document or anything I can check to see if it is a left hand thread?

Thanks

[sundiz]

EPC told I had these parts:
25287-2A000
25287-2A010

Based on spare part images both had normal threads. But I would not trust part pictures on the internet. I'll try to find old pulleys.

Your car might have different parts...

You said t40 bit broke. First thought I had that did you turn to right direction. Or it was just a poor quality bit...

[SafetyChes]

If they are both normal threads that would explain a lot!. I'm having a bit welded to a nut as I type this so will try to crack the bolt in the normal direction and let you know what happens.

[sundiz]

Both idler pulleys are normal thread, at least In my car. Just found the old ones and checked them.

[SafetyChes]

Thank you so much! I'll try it tonight.

[BrendanP]

I took a few photos of the screw on my GD diesel and it does appear to be a regular torx head. It just looked weird in the photo of the part but I guess that's just perspective playing tricks. On the GD there's an aircon hose running right in front of it so I think there's even less space to get to the belt and pulleys than on the FD model.

[SafetyChes]

Okay, so I have an update. My cousin popped over today and welded on a nut to the head of the torx bolt. Came off like a gem. New tensioner is on and I’ll get a new flanged hex headed set screw tomorrow to put the idler pulley on.

Thank you everyone who provided advice and support on this very difficult issue.

[sundiz]

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Was it normal thread on the bolt or reversed?

[SafetyChes]

It was a normal thread, but it doesn't seem to have fixed the noise, I will have to check the other pulleys at my next opportunity.

[sundiz]

Can you describe the noise more?

[BrendanP]

A friend of mine with a Vauxhall diesel found the alternator pulley was causing a squealing noise. The pulley incorporates a freewheel mechanism so the noise may be rev dependent.

[sundiz]

I had issues with the alternator pulley causing clunking noises. The freewheel went bad. Could maybe fix just the freewheel, but I was in a hurry and alternator was fast to get so I changed the whole thing. It made noise like two metal parts were tapped against each other. I think my alternator had something like 160-180tkm when it happened. I was able to spot it after removing the belt and pulling the alternator pulley along its axel (from left to right on the car point of view)

[SafetyChes]

Thanks,

It's like a really dull click or whiring sound. if that makes any sense? When I have some space on the drive (currently repairing my sisters ford KA) ill have a double check of the alternator pulley.