[eXDee]

Hi All,

I tried to search to find an exact guide of what bulbs to buy - both in part type as well as brand, but the best I could find was a list of wattages from the user manual, as well as this thread which suggests some NARVA or rather, Osram bulbs for a good price. I have no idea if this is correct for the one i need to replace.

The one im after is clearly visible one on the left hand side, lower down. I believe the high beam bulb sits above this one. On the right hand side the large round globe is still working. I'm unsure what the proper terms are for these.

I want to get a good value efficient, quality and powerful bulb. While of course still staying with the legal limits (which i think doesn't allow HID/LED retrofits)

[beerman]

Be careful, the CRDI has a history of blowing the brighter globes which as I understand, have a thinner filament can blow more easily.

My CW used to pop a few globes, I found the cheap globes the mechanic used were very quick to give up the ghost. The Phillips Eco globes I put in never missed a beat, but I paid a small price in brightness. My Wife's i30 hasn't blown a globe ever (touch wood) but dosent do nearly as much night driving.

[CraigB]

If you turn your lights on you'll be able to see which bulbs they are, the far left ( that appears to be on ) behind the projector lens is your low beam, the high and park light bulbs will be in the larger/inner lense.

Personally I prefer the Philips bulbs though in the retail shops you'll be hit with crazy prices $70-$90 a pair, much cheaper to find an online/ebay distributor Philips White Vision 40% Whiter Light H7 Headlight Globes (2x WhiteVision Bulbs) | eBay

I'm not sure if both high and low beams are H7 on your model though

[xiziz]

I got philips ultravision 130+ bulbs now, happy with the light from them, got both hi and low beams. Had a pair of Osram Nightbreakers before which only lasted some 5000km. I bought a surge protector(~15$ usd) and hope it will rectify the blowing of bulbs. I've done 7500km on the philips so far, but there supposed to last longer than the nightbreakers, if they last me until April I'm a happy camper.

I would be surprised if the low beams were anything other than H7 bulbs, easiest way to make sure is to remove one and take a look at it.

[Shambles]

I'm currently using these as my low beam

Philips WhiteVision H7 Halogen Car Headlight Bulb | PowerBulbs

They're currently on offer (I paid more than currently shown ) and they're really powerful. No idea of their longevity yet...

[CraigB]

I'm currently using these as my low beam

Philips WhiteVision H7 Halogen Car Headlight Bulb | PowerBulbs

They're currently on offer (I paid more than currently shown ) and they're really powerful. No idea of their longevity yet...

That's a good price same bulbs I use for low and high.

[eXDee]

Excellent, thanks for everyones replies.

The bulb in question I found the proper name is 'Sidelight Bulb' or simply parking lights. In that photo it might be be confusing as it was taken at night, with the camera flash, with the headlights off. But it is the lower left globe. Turns out the bulb is a boring little low powered one!

This thread was very useful! Very little information about them online compared to the other bulbs.

I got a couple of bulbs for $5 from supercheap. It seems you can get good quality replacements but i'm not sure how much benefit there is due to it being the sidelight?
The main lights i'd like to change at some point to something nicer, but I don't think I need to at this stage, as nice as it would be!

This bulb is known as a 501/W5W with T10 fitting (capless) as far as i can tell.

You can see its socket here:



and the broken filament here:



Out of interest does anyone go LED - either for the low/dipped beam, the high beam or sidelights - or do you pretty much have to stick to the halogen ones for them to fit and stay legal?

[Shambles]

My T10 sidelights are LED, and pretty good they are too

http://www.dx.com/p/t10-3w-100-lumen-9x5050-smd-led-car-white-light-bulb-2-pack-dc-12v-37144#.WE0MHvmLTIU

(click to show/hide)

[eXDee]

I see thats 3W, Mine are 5W. I'm guessing they are all 12v, but the LED draws less current due to being more efficient? Did you see a major improvement when you swapped these in, i'm guessing it increases the field of view of the lighting overall?

Also

I'm currently using these as my low beam

Philips WhiteVision H7 Halogen Car Headlight Bulb | PowerBulbs

They're currently on offer (I paid more than currently shown ) and they're really powerful. No idea of their longevity yet...

That's a good price same bulbs I use for low and high.

I see you're mentioning using H7s for high and low. The powerbulbs site says the Australian i30 FD uses H7 for dipped, but H1 for high beam and H8 for fog lights. Or by same do you just mean the philips whitevision but in H1 version?

[Just Rick]

One of my cars is full LED Now,as long as you buy decent leds brilliant light quality,but there are some cheap LED's out there,which are as useless as tits on a bull
 
link to totally useless LED's 2X Car Vehicle 18-LED 5050 SMD H7 Xenon Pure White Fog Head Light Lamp Bulb 12V
2X Car Vehicle 18-LED 5050 SMD H7 Xenon Pure White Fog Head Light Lamp Bulb 12V

and this link is to the LED's which are decent ones H7 180W 18000LM PHILIPS LED Headlight Bulb kit Driving Replace Halogen Xenon HID | eBay you can get them in all globe configerations eventually I will convert all our cars.

[eXDee]

Wow, that one has a cooling fan! I'm guessing the heatsink/fan just sort of hangs out the back there?

I see that description says "Power: 180W". The H7 WhiteVision is only 55W. Is that an excessive draw on the wiring, battery or alternator?

[druggist]

Hi Rick,

Also keen to know if the cover still fits over the back of the headlight housing, or what mods did you have to make to have it fit.

Cheers,
Druggist

[Just Rick]

I haven't converted Bruce(I30)yet,but no From what I can work out the caps would have to be modified or left off the I30's if you did the convertion,I have converted Alvin(Diesel Cruze) he's full led now and the draw when I have ALL the lights on is less than when I just had the conventional low beam on before.
and there in no need to modify the headlight housing as you do have to with the cheap crappy LED's,when you say the H4's are 180w that is 90 W on high beam Per globe,when I eventually convert Bruce I will be using 55w in the low beam,and you can if you fish around get the 75w for the high beam,believe me I would say that would be more than enough for city driving(with small amounts of country)if you do a lot of country work just add a decent light bar or two.

Yes the fan on the back is the heatsink and no I would not have any hesitation to drillsaw holes in the back of my covers(as I have done in Alvin's) because if you find the LED's are not for you the back covers for the I30's are a dime a dozen these days if you go to the right wreckers

[Phil №❶]

The wattage quoted for led's is most likely a comparison wattage to get a feel for their brightness compared to standard halogens. They don't actually draw those amounts when in use.

[eXDee]

Thanks for that. Thought it might be a comparison wattage but always pays to check.

For now I'm holding off on an overhaul but now I have these, some nice tyres and maybe even a stereo mod on my wish list. Reading your guys posts is dangerous! 

[Phil №❶]

 

[Just Rick]

Thanks for that. Thought it might be a comparison wattage but always pays to check.

For now I'm holding off on an overhaul but now I have these, some nice tyres and maybe even a stereo mod on my wish list. Reading your guys posts is dangerous! 

eXDee

Mods to your car does not have to be expensive, if your handy with the tools in your toolbox or garage(I clarified that because if I just said your tools someone would have gone off topic with that  ) many of the mods I have done to my vehicles,if you have the right friends and know where to go, cost peanuts. 

[eXDee]

Bump.

You'll never guess what happened. Actually you probably will - simultaneously blew both of the main low beam bulbs. Gah. I think it happened when i started the engine as they were already on - I use the headlight auto mode as well as auto shut off when the driver door is opened. To clarify this is actually the low beams this time, not the sidelights.


Drove home on the high beams which isn't the most fun for other drivers to see oncoming - I forgot my Elite (aka SLX) has fog lights, could have used those instead.

Unless it's the fuse of course. I'll have to check that too i guess. But thoughts on the Philips WhiteVision globes vs LED? Focus on them not blowing as priority, with a great beam throw and brightness as a good bonus.

[nzenigma]

Hi Bro, 


As an electric motor (esp induction) starts, you can get a high voltage spike , then it goes back to normal voltage.  The starter is doing the same thing especially with the higher current required to start a diesel motor.

A simple remedy is to get about 10 meters of insulated wire,( same size as your existing light wire) lay it back and forth so you have a long coil that can fit into about 500-700mm of  flexible conduit. Cut the low beam wire and then recomplete the circuit by attaching the two ends of the coil. The current now flows through the coil, voltage spikes are cancelled due to this introduced inductance.

[eXDee]

Thanks for the info. For a less DIY type fix, I recall reading a few people bought surge protectors - i assume these go directly on the battery? But it seems what you were describing [has been done officially]( Constant Headlight Blows) as a warranty repair?

Others mentioned checking, cleaning or improving the earthing. Cant seem to find much info about this though. Does anyone have a guide or at least some instructions/pictures?
 
I have ordered a set of Philips Longlife from Powerbulbs at the recommendation of several readers saying the higher powered bulbs died quickly, but these seem to last okay in the diesel.

[nzenigma]

Quick look at your link suggests that  it is an inductance similar to what I have described.

"Others mentioned checking, cleaning or improving the earthing" which was something to write but meaningless.

 

[eXDee]

I'm not sure I follow what you're saying - are you suggesting that improving/fixing the earthing of it is meaningless? I can see several people mention this, but i cant find anyone giving detail on what it actually means to make this sort of change.

[Dazzler]

I'm not sure I follow what you're saying - are you suggesting that improving/fixing the earthing of it is meaningless? I can see several people mention this, but i cant find anyone giving detail on what it actually means to make this sort of change.

I guess Gary suspects that improving/fixing the earthing of the lights isn't really enough to solve the problem.  Before we knew about the added resistance fix to reduce spikes we kind of suspected the earthing as a problem. We were sort of on the right track but improving the integrity of the earth to the body probably isn't enough.

[nzenigma]

 Dazz says in long form what I was saying,.
Thanks Dazz.

Earthing can cause low level (yellow) or no light. It is not selective and will generally affect both High and low beam because they both use the same earth.
Its a common problem in older cars.
But the remedy tends to be used thereafter for any lighting fix.
Best to look for evidence or detail when well meaning people give an opinion.
NOTE: I love all well meaning people ( such as me  ) and often they are spot on. 

[nzenigma]

Addition, to illustrate what I am talking about:
 at night you may notice that your house lights momentarily flash more brightly. It will probably coincide with your refrigerator starting or some other motor.
This is the same principle as in your i30. That flash or spike of high voltage is blowing the bulbs.
Cheers Gary

[eXDee]

Thanks for everyones info. All a good read. For the moment i'm going to hold off any further mods because the bulbs are relatively cheap, and see how i go with these philips longlife. If they die within 24 months i'll probably do the mod.

I installed them today and they are working, hooray! The ones that came out of them aren't looking very happy though...

Reading the model on them its Osram 64210NBP. Googling indicates these are Night Breaker Plus! I think this means my headlights are going to be a bit dimmer running the philips long life. But oh well, at least they will work.

But look at the condition on the osram bulbs. Quite unhealthy! Yes that is a brown burn and yes that plastic does look disintegrated and it is bent an angle.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the photos. Yes, back to pretty much standard i30 illumination.

[eXDee]

I thought I had standard i30 illumination already! Haven't had the car for more than a year so don't know what was in it. Will be interesting if it's noticeable without an easy A-B comparison.

[Dazzler]

The standard headlight are one of the few weaknesses of the i30 regularly complained about, although I know some members who are quite happy with them. It's all about expectations I guess.

[nzenigma]

To state the obvious, the bulbs have been over heating. I did a search, but cant find any criticism. My guess is that the i30 headlamp does not have enough ventilation or enough heatsink at the connector base to handle these bulbs.