i30 Owners Club

Recent Posts

41
PETROL / Re: GD 2014 1.8L Spark Plugs: Gap
« Last post by SankarAu April 06, 2024, 15:01:42 »
Thanks @TerryT

Great detail. I have mechanical aptitude and some theoretical knowledge but have to admit not having the experience most will have. I have a feeler gauge (pix below) which gave me the 0.98...but again have to admit, not being a Virgo :D, haven't checked the accuracy. I get your point though and take it onboard. Last time I changed sparks, on my Ford, I didn't change the factory preset. Worked a charm. Based on your suggestion I'll do the same this time around too. When I took the measurement the other day, I did gingerly insert the feeler gauge since I was aware of the sensitive Iridium. I'd rather not mess with it again. Every extra touch is an unnecessary one.

Cheers,
Sankar



42
GENERAL / With new batteries the fobs don’t work
« Last post by Bluey138 April 06, 2024, 08:59:31 »
I unlocked my 2015 i30 with the key when the old fob didn’t work. Now with new batteries the fobs don’t work. It’s very frustrating, anyone else have ideas? Thanks ☺️
43
PETROL / Re: GD 2014 1.8L Spark Plugs: Gap
« Last post by TerryT April 06, 2024, 02:56:33 »
@SankarAu. The NGK site at https://www.ngk.com/ngk-9723-silzkr7b11-laser-iridium-spark-plug says the gap should be 1.1mm (.043”) so that would be my optimal target. You have measured your spark plugs as 0.98mm; let’s call that “1mm” for the sake of simplicity.

Mate, I don’t know how experienced or knowledgeable you are with [laser iridium] spark plugs or gapping tools and methods, but I’ll say that if your “1mm” is accurate that is close enough for me to install the spark plugs as is, without trying to change the gap which can be fiddle-some if a rookie and expensive if you stuff up. 

With laser iridium plugs you need to be extra cautious about not leaning on the thin centre electrode when measuring the plug gap and be extra extra cautious when changing the gap, if it’s needed. 

 I usually find that the gap set at the NGK factory is good, or good enough for my intended application but when I buy new NGK plugs I will always check the gap to make sure the plugs haven’t been mishandled or are a store return which have been ‘played with’ etc.

Accurately measuring plug gaps is not rocket science but it does require the right gapping tool and the right technique.  I suggest you google the subject and watch/listen/read from reputable sources e.g. spark plug manufacturers, workshops, mechanics etc.  I had posted several posts here about a similar subject, at :link: How to find OEM/correct spark plugs?

I have copied a few of the more important points from those posts:  "I suggest you especially watch videos from the spark plug manufacturers like NGK, Bosch, Champion, either on their web sites or on YouTube.

"It will be mentioned ad nauseum in videos that your spark plug's centre electrode is fine wire Iridium (precious) metal...it is fragile!  Traditional non-precious spark plugs have a solid centre electrode of about 2.5mm dia whereas Iridium plugs have 0.6mm tips lasered to the centre electrode...a big difference.

"If you have to adjust the spark plug gap, avoid levering/pressing your gapping tool against the centre electrode to make the correct gap!  You will damage it and at AUD$35~$40 AUD per plug, you will cry!  If you have to close the plug gap, avoid the way shown in old videos of banging the earth strap against something hard like concrete floor...that worked once, not so much now with Iridium plugs. :)

"I usually try to remove and install spark plugs on a cold or cool engine, if I have the choice.

"Tool Tip: If you don't have one, may I suggest you buy a spark plug socket fitted with a magnetic insert (or, at very least, a rubber insert).  The magnetic insert grips the spark plug around its single-hex (6) sides and helps you lift the spark plug out of its deep 'well' without dropping it.   My personal preference is a single-hex (6-sided) spark plug socket rather than a double-hex (12-sided) socket.  I think the socket size is 16mm (5/8").

"One last thing, when starting the new plugs into the head, I suggest not using the ratchet with your extension bar & socket.  For more sensitivity against cross-threading, discard the ratchet and use your fingers on the extension bar to 'feel' that the plug is correctly starting the thread in the head."

 
There are different opinions about the best type of gapping tool to use.  See photos below.  I avoid using the first two types, #1 & #2 (or derivatives of) if I can.  I will use tools #3 & #4.  When I was serious about plug gapping, I used tool #5 (and others with the same concept).

  Tool #1 (Not used by me)

  Tool #2 (Not used by me)

  Tool #3 (Used by me)

  Tool #4 (Used by me)

Tool #5 (Used by me, but expensive compared to above tools)

When you get pedantic (like us elderly Virgo's do) you feel compelled to use a quality vernier to measure the wire strips on Tools #3 & #4 to ensure that their markings are accurate.

44
COME AND SAY HI ! / MOVED: Faulty Aircon
« Last post by Shambles April 05, 2024, 10:57:20 »
45
GENERAL / Faulty Aircon
« Last post by kneale April 05, 2024, 09:51:24 »
My aircon is intermittently cutting in and out all the time. The external air temp sensor is also very erratic and it seems to coincide with the aircon cutting in and out.
I replaced the external air temp sensor but that didn't fix it, It still reads erratically.
Have regassed the air con, the clutch seems to cut in and out properly when the aircon cuts in. ??
46
Not sure if I'll keep the car.  The fact that I have to order some new models 6 to 12 months ahead certainly does not help.  The last time I bought a new car was 2016, when dealers were overflowing with stock and Hyundai had a really enticing i30 offer.

My car is booked in to a Hyundai mechanic on 22 April so I'll see what they say.  The mentioned faults are all pretty minor of course, but I'm trying to get a feel for how much longer I should have the car.

I had a very expensive clutch and flywheel change at 165,000km and there is no way I want to do that on a 330,000km vehicle.  The repair would cost more than the car is worth.  I figured the sweet spot to sell the car is maybe 240k to 250k km.
47
That's a relief.
Does that mean you will keep the car? 
It does sound strange about them mucking about with the air filter box.  I usually like to get a mobile mechanic to do stuff I won't attempt - at least he is there right in front of me and I can see everything and don't have to wait for "that" phone call.
48
Quick follow up to the above post.  I inspected the engine bay in daylight and noticed the mechanics had not correctly fitted the pipe on the air filter box.  The latches were correctly closed on one side, but the tabs were not inserted into the slots on the other.  Fixed, and now the engine sounds normal.

I don't know what they were doing removing that to just flush and change the coolant, and how they would notice the swirl control not working.  Maybe they went for a deeper inspection to see if there were any problems...
49
PETROL / Re: i30 faulty door electronics draining battery
« Last post by pidim April 04, 2024, 22:53:28 »
Thanks for updating us.  Great outcome for what seems was a hugely frustrating issue over a long time. 
Don't worry too much about the expense.  You now have peace of mind.  :)
50
PETROL / Re: i30 faulty door electronics draining battery
« Last post by Sydney Lady April 04, 2024, 13:18:12 »
Splendid feedback - thanks. Not many would spend that much on an 11 year old car - you must really love her  :clapthanks: :KissLips:

Cheaper than buying a new car though. Had no choice as needed a car now and it was not driveable... not ready yet to buy another car at this point in time.  :undecided:
I'm very happy with her, very comfy seats, I needed good back support. She is my first ever automatic car. Courtesy of my age.

Only negative is the SatNav. Having to pay for updates if they were available and always a year out of date. No longer available for this model now in any case. This will not be a priority when I look for a new car. Happy using my Navman with free upgrades every few months.
One reason I chose the i30 was the full size spare, neither Toyota or Mazda were offering that at the time. Not sure if Toyota now does ? I do some regional driving and didn't want to rely on a space saver tyre.
I might start looking around. An important point will be the width of the car. I  have a small garage and currently the i30 is parked 1" from wall on passenger side and the driver's door still can't be opened fully.
My previous Toyota hatch took less space.
I think the Kona is even wider.

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