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PD SR Stereo Install. Speaker, Amps, Subwoofer

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Offline Dazzler

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Well done Scott. Can you modify a dash mat to hide the mark on the tweeter?
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Offline Crustycottage

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Can you modify a dash mat to hide the mark on the tweeter?

Hi Daryl the standard hyundai dash mat covers it anyway, was just showing peeps where i put them. the actual standard tweeter positions do not look 100% asymmetrical but didn't want to modify the dash. i think they new tweeters fit fine into cover after some adjusting  :happydance:
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Offline CraigB

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Would the tweeters not have fitted into the original positions  :undecided:


Offline Purplehazeffc

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Some photos of PD stereo installation at last. Wiring into boot still still needs a bit of tidying up.
I have replaced the Morel Maximus 602 components in the front with Focal K2 Power 165 KR with new MDF spacers. I was really hacked off with bodge job that Alberts did on the car for $750 so did it myself.
And even when most issues resolved the Morels to me were still missing that x factor. still have Morel components in rear doors whcih may be changed at later date for Focals. Now the system is making me smile a lot
 
check plate from Bunnings (Vinyl wrap on MDF)  :whistler:


Front Driver door new 25mm MDF spacer & Focal K2 Power 165 KR woofer. Existing plastic door screw holes reused


LH front passenger door with speaker foam tape that now aligns with door trim and seals. 


Little damage on RH dash tweeter cover.... just didn't want to come out after previous Morel tweeter




That is looking pretty good.  I did look at getting the Focals when I got my Morels.  But the eBay store I got them from had 20% on eBay at the time. Hence why I got the Morels..

The way you have mounted the woofer is the same as mine. Thou I just got the Aerpro pre made spacers from Repco. Fitted really good.  I made new screw holes thou & countersinked the screws in so the speaker fits flush.
I also used some adhesive silicone to the back of the spacer. Should hold it secure & stop any possible air leaks..  I was going to also put some sound deadening on the door. But it's mainly plastic & really no room to put any.

That's about how much I have done so far.  The last week I have been unwell, with spending a night in hospital. I'm off to Melbourne on Friday (Tomorrow). Back on Monday arvo. Car goes in for the 10,000k service on Tuesday.
Then it's back for another fun filled of 12hr shifts over 5 days at work on Wednesday.  So not for another 10 or so days before I can even think about doing any more..  Have all the new speaker cable to go as well..

I have had a look at the tweeter mounting as well.  And actually thought about what you have done to mount the tweeter.. Because even when I sell the car (many years later) I would just leave the speakers there anyway.
Or even at a pinch. It would not be that expensive to get new tweeter covers & remount the original tweeter back in..
But I'm also looking at making a bracket to mount to the original screw locations & have the Morel tweeter mounted to that. So something pretty similar to how the original is. Then not to put the covers back on & the dash mat to cover that.

Hopefully when I have mine completed. And with better weather LOL.  I wouldn't mind a catch up to check out the sound of those Focals...


Would the tweeters not have fitted into the original positions  :undecided:

No..  The tweeter cover is fully closed in, except for the original tweeter.  Which is not a big enough opening




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Offline Crustycottage

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Or even at a pinch. It would not be that expensive to get new tweeter covers & remount the original tweeter back in..
But I'm also looking at making a bracket to mount to the original screw locations & have the Morel tweeter mounted to that. So something pretty similar to how the original is. Then not to put the covers back on & the dash mat to cover that.

Hope you get well soon. this is original and morel tweeters with metal back strap taped on by Alberts. The issue i had with Morels was they were being pushed down by tweeter cover and it really needs 2 straps which would be difficult to fabricate and acheive the desired angle to mate with cover protrusion. the soft dome Morels just didn't cut it for me


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Offline Crustycottage

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I also used some adhesive silicone to the back of the spacer. Should hold it secure & stop any possible air leaks..  I was going to also put some sound deadening on the door. But it's mainly plastic & really no room to put any.
I used some silicone sealant between MDF spacers & plastic window door moulding, I didnt have clear so bathroom white it is to seal any potential gaps.
The previous 'professional' Morel speaker install did use 16mm MDF spacers but because the 4 self tapping screws went through the speaker surround, spacer and new holes into thin plastic door trim, the screws started to rattle & loosen and unable to tighten any further. The Morel speaker surround started to deform too.
My new 25mm MDF spacers used existing PCD of OEM speaker holes which are much deeper boss and can be tightened properly.
Also drilled & added two locating pins same as the white OEM plastic speaker spacer to ensure correct alignment with internal door trim and to hold some of the weight of the Focal speaker. Over the top I know for a Hyundai, but I wanted to do it properly this time.

I did use sound deadening butyl on the inside of outer door skin. this is difficult as I didnt remove the aforementioned black plastic window trim panel but used the speaker hole to apply strips of sound deadening butyl. If I knew how to remove black panel it would have made the job so much easier 
I believe it has helped to keep road noise out as the outer door skins are thin as, and keep more bass in. this is what I used

:link: 1.8m2 OEM Silver butyl sound deadener, Car Builders dampening vs Dynamat | eBay

This stuff looks just as good and cheaper too.

:link: Premium Car Audio Sound Deadener Sound Proofing Noise Control 1.95sq/m DELIVERED | eBay
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Offline CraigB

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Alberts used Boom Mats behind my 4 Morels, probably why they punch out reasonable bass.



Offline Dazzler

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Over the top I know for a Hyundai.

 :twisted:  :TutTut: :TutTut:  :disapp:


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Offline Crustycottage

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Over the top I know for a Hyundai.

     

Ha ha I knew you would bite Dazz   :rofl: :scared:
I'm just off to re-ink my "I love Hyundai tattoo"
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Offline Dazzler

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Over the top I know for a Hyundai.

     

Ha ha I knew you would bite Dazz   :rofl: :scared:
I'm just off to re-ink my "I love Hyundai tattoo"

Good comeback Scott..  :goodjob: :mrgreen:
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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Or even at a pinch. It would not be that expensive to get new tweeter covers & remount the original tweeter back in..
But I'm also looking at making a bracket to mount to the original screw locations & have the Morel tweeter mounted to that. So something pretty similar to how the original is. Then not to put the covers back on & the dash mat to cover that.

Hope you get well soon. this is original and morel tweeters with metal back strap taped on by Alberts. The issue i had with Morels was they were being pushed down by tweeter cover and it really needs 2 straps which would be difficult to fabricate and acheive the desired angle to mate with cover protrusion. the soft dome Morels just didn't cut it for me



Damn. That is not great work from a shop that you paid money to install.
Glad I'm doing it myself. Even though its taking a little longer.
The 2nd link of matt is what I have already got. I've lined my boot with it already.
How did you go about finding the speakers wires down by the kick panels??
Pretty easy to find. Hopefully I can begin to finish it off Tuesday week.
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Offline CraigB

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Damn. That is not great work from a shop that you paid money to install.
I did suggest for Scott to use Alberts in Cannington as I knew the guys there, no idea why he never returned his car to the Midland branch when he first discovered issues with it :confused: taking it back to them and complaining might have solved all his heartache with it, we both had the same system yet they couldn't be anymore different in sound and install quality.


Offline Crustycottage

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How did you go about finding the speakers wires down by the kick panels??
Pretty easy to find. Hopefully I can begin to finish it off Tuesday week.

To be honest I have forgotten what colour wires and plug I cut as a while ago and have gold fish memory with old age and all.  :lol:
I do recall there were 3 plugs in each kick panel, and used a continuity tester to trace plug wiring to the door woofer. I will try and remember to pull covers and take pictures of both sides tomorrow and write down wire colours as it will certainly help you. One set of speaker cables feeds into LC7i Line out converter in boot, and other speaker cables comes back from the amps / crossover to feed door speaker via kick panel connector. I would have preferred to take those speaker cables all the way to door speaker terminals but that was in the too hard basket   :head_butt:

Did the butyl mat in boot reduce any road or exhaust noise???
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Offline Crustycottage

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Damn. That is not great work from a shop that you paid money to install.
I did suggest for Scott to use Alberts in Cannington as I knew the guys there, no idea why he never returned his car to the Midland branch when he first discovered issues with it  taking it back to them and complaining might have solved all his heartache with it, we both had the same system yet they couldn't be anymore different in sound and install quality.

I didn't want Alberts Midland touching the car ever again Craig to be honest. Just put it down to one of life's expensive lessons.

Everything they did was fcuked up, to wire up two speaker polarities wrong is a school boy error, wiring covered with insulation tape, no heat shrink, butchered woofers, MDF spacers, tweeters taped to brackets with different angles hence different reflected sound of windscreen. No pride or quality in their work whatsoever.
The quality of service you received at Alberts in Cannington was polar opposite.
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Offline CraigB

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Damn. That is not great work from a shop that you paid money to install.
I did suggest for Scott to use Alberts in Cannington as I knew the guys there, no idea why he never returned his car to the Midland branch when he first discovered issues with it  taking it back to them and complaining might have solved all his heartache with it, we both had the same system yet they couldn't be anymore different in sound and install quality.

I didn't want Alberts Midland touching the car ever again Craig to be honest. Just put it down to one of life's expensive lessons.

Everything they did was fcuked up, to wire up two speaker polarities wrong is a school boy error, wiring covered with insulation tape, no heat shrink, butchered woofers, MDF spacers, tweeters taped to brackets with different angles hence different reflected sound of windscreen. No pride or quality in their work whatsoever.
The quality of service you received at Alberts in Cannington was polar opposite.
That should have been more reason to go back and complain to the manager about the installers fxxx up, to late now though :disapp:


Offline Crustycottage

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That should have been more reason to go back and complain to the manager about the installers fxxx up, to late now though

Craig I believe it was the manager, but anyway it gave me the motivation, and as they say if you want a job done right, do it yourself. I cant remember if that was my motto at the Boy scouts or Girl guides, I'm still happy with the result  :happydance:
« Last Edit: August 10, 2018, 15:54:08 by Crustycottage »
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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How did you go about finding the speakers wires down by the kick panels??
Pretty easy to find. Hopefully I can begin to finish it off Tuesday week.

To be honest I have forgotten what colour wires and plug I cut as a while ago and have gold fish memory with old age and all.  :lol:
I do recall there were 3 plugs in each kick panel, and used a continuity tester to trace plug wiring to the door woofer. I will try and remember to pull covers and take pictures of both sides tomorrow and write down wire colours as it will certainly help you. One set of speaker cables feeds into LC7i Line out converter in boot, and other speaker cables comes back from the amps / crossover to feed door speaker via kick panel connector. I would have preferred to take those speaker cables all the way to door speaker terminals but that was in the too hard basket   :head_butt:

Did the butyl mat in boot reduce any road or exhaust noise???

I think I know what colours the speaker cables are. They should be the same as what goes to the woofers in the doors.
Hopefully lol. But as long as the plugs are easy to get at to the wires.
So I'm able to solder & shrink wrap them. I looked at going straight thru as well.
But it does not look easy thru any factory holes. And I don't want to drill anything new there either. So factory thru there it will be as well.
The butyl mat has helped heaps with the exhaust drone a lot.
So I would think road noise as well. But for road noise, you would have to do the whole floor of the car to get a great benifit.
I would think it would also help with the subwoofer when it's up & running as well.
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Offline Crustycottage

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Quote from: Crustycottage on August 10, 2018, 07:19:29
Quote from: Purplehazeffc on August 10, 2018, 06:28:17
How did you go about finding the speakers wires down by the kick panels??
Pretty easy to find. Hopefully I can begin to finish it off Tuesday week.

To be honest I have forgotten what colour wires and plug I cut as a while ago and have gold fish memory with old age and all. 
I do recall there were 3 plugs in each kick panel, and used a continuity tester to trace plug wiring to the door woofer. I will try and remember to pull covers and take pictures of both sides tomorrow and write down wire colours as it will certainly help you. One set of speaker cables feeds into LC7i Line out converter in boot, and other speaker cables comes back from the amps / crossover to feed door speaker via kick panel connector. I would have preferred to take those speaker cables all the way to door speaker terminals but that was in the too hard basket   

Did the butyl mat in boot reduce any road or exhaust noise???

I think I know what colours the speaker cables are. They should be the same as what goes to the woofers in the doors.
Hopefully lol. But as long as the plugs are easy to get at to the wires.
So I'm able to solder & shrink wrap them. I looked at going straight thru as well.
But it does not look easy thru any factory holes. And I don't want to drill anything new there either. So factory thru there it will be as well.
The butyl mat has helped heaps with the exhaust drone a lot.
So I would think road noise as well. But for road noise, you would have to do the whole floor of the car to get a great benifit.
I would think it would also help with the subwoofer when it's up & running as well.

here are some pictures that may help you. i think the wires into the plug come from the stereo but considerable beers have been consumed  :wink:

driver side soldered




passenger side bullet connectors



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Offline Purplehazeffc

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Awesome..  Cheers heaps for that..

Look pretty easy to get to as well..   So hopefully next Monday arvo I can make a start on it..
Will be good to finally get it up & running..
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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Well..   Can finally say that I have completed my stereo install..  It's taken awhile to do. But I must say that i'm happy with the outcome.  :goodjob2:

The tweeters were mounted in the stock locations. Just made the whole bigger to fit the mount. Then Selley's 401 silicone adhesive to hold them in place.

Passenger side speaker wire are run behind the dash. So they all run down the driver's side. Away from the main O gauge power cable.

All wire connections have been soldered together, before being heat shrink wrapped. Then taped together for added security.

After everything was connected & checked..   It powered up without any problems  :happydance:

Then some gain settings was done.  The  to enjoy a couple of tracks to see what it all sounds like..

 























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Offline Crustycottage

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After everything was connected & checked..   It powered up without any problems   

Well done, Im impressed by your wiring as so much neater than mine under the seat. As long as it sounds better thank stock system that is what really counts  :goodjob2:  :goodjob:  :winker:
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Offline Dazzler

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 :whsaid: Well done!  :hatoff:
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Offline Cookie Thumper

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Not concerned about moisture getting into those MDF speaker spacers ?
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Offline Crustycottage

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Not concerned about moisture getting into those MDF speaker spacers ?

i have used PVA glue inside the MDF spacer, but may add some sealer externally at a later date. to be honest the inner black plastic trim is a fairly good barrier
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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After everything was connected & checked..   It powered up without any problems   

Well done, Im impressed by your wiring as so much neater than mine under the seat. As long as it sounds better thank stock system that is what really counts  :goodjob2:  :goodjob:  :winker:

Really..  I thought it looked a lot like spaghetti in there.   There is not a lot you can do with the wiring, as there is so much of it to put somewhere. I was thinking of going back at a later date to get it a bit more cleaner.
I think the power & earth to the amps looks ok. But the power & earth to the crossover & LCi and the remote wire could be a bit better. By the time I got to that, my back was crying ENOUGH !!!!

Not concerned about moisture getting into those MDF speaker spacers ?

i have used PVA glue inside the MDF spacer, but may add some sealer externally at a later date. to be honest the inner black plastic trim is a fairly good barrier

The MDF spacers I used are pre-painted black & are well coated. For any moisture that "may" get in there, it should be enough  :link: Aerpro | First Choice


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Offline Cookie Thumper

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Not concerned about moisture getting into those MDF speaker spacers ?

i have used PVA glue inside the MDF spacer, but may add some sealer externally at a later date. to be honest the inner black plastic trim is a fairly good barrier

Fair play, I seal them as its never nice to have a speaker come away when they rot.
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Offline Crustycottage

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Remove both the halves of the rear seats, which is just 3 bolts for the whole lot. 

I am doing further sound mods with upgraded Focal FPX 4.400 SQ 4 channel amp, FPX 1.1000 mono amp with two P25F flax 10" subwoofers in box enclosure.  :twisted:
I will now have to upgrade my 4 AWG power cable to 0 AWG like Purphlehazeffc as the mono amp draws a lot of current and upgrade ANL fuse to 200 amp. May need a second battery at some point too.

Which 3 bolts allow the rear seat back removal?  :phone1:
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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Remove both the halves of the rear seats, which is just 3 bolts for the whole lot. 

I am doing further sound mods with upgraded Focal FPX 4.400 SQ 4 channel amp, FPX 1.1000 mono amp with two P25F flax 10" subwoofers in box enclosure.  :twisted:
I will now have to upgrade my 4 AWG power cable to 0 AWG like Purphlehazeffc as the mono amp draws a lot of current and upgrade ANL fuse to 200 amp. May need a second battery at some point too.

Which 3 bolts allow the rear seat back removal?  :phone1:

Sounds like a pretty good upgrade.  Iv'e read pretty good things about the Focal range of amps.

If you fold both of the backrests down. In the gap you will see a bolt. Take that out & flip the retainer back.
Then pull one half of the backrest up where they join. The pull towards the middle of the car.
Then you can do the same for the other side.   Can be quite tight the first time. But now I can do that in less than a minute.
The bottom seat part is held in by 2 bolts either side. Very easy to spot once the backrest is out.
Then pull up at the front of the seat, to un-clip from there mount.

As soon as you have done it once. It's quite easy.

 
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Offline Crustycottage

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Thanks for that, will give it a go when back in surburbia.
The rear seat cushion is easy as you say 2 bolts and clips on the front. Im not sure how you managed to mount your distribution blocks at front of the fuel tank, my cushion tends to pop out of clips  :whistler:
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Offline Purplehazeffc

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I'm not sure how it stays clipped in. Iv'e never had a problem with the seat popping out of those clips.
It must keep those blocks down pretty good thou. Iv'e just got some heavy duty double sided tape on those.

Once you have taken the seats out once, it's pretty easy to get them in & out after that.
Iv'e done it a few times now. Can do the whole lot now in less that 2 minutes  :happydance:

I have also changed mine around a little bit as well..  I has having trouble with my electronic crossover at higher volume.
It was sending low frequency's to the tweeters.  Which would damage them..   So I hooked up my old A/D/S passive crossovers.
I have also bridged my 4ch amp into 2ch.  Now the Morels are getting around 200w each.  That has made them come alive.
Changed the subwoofer box to a bigger one. As the other was to small for the 12" Rockford sub..
And gave the shelf a bit of a re-arrange.  And tidied up a bit of the wiring as well..











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