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Replacing turbo

JHI30 · 52 · 17059

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Offline JHI30

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Hi All,

I need to replace my turbo on my 2008 crdi after 200,000km. I’ve been quoted a ridiculous amount to replace it. I already have the Garret replacement turbo and wanted to give this a go myself. Has anyone done this before themselves? It doesn’t appear to be too difficult but wanted to know if there’s anything important I need to know about? I have new oil, gaskets, oil feed line etc... Has anyone got a workshop manual that details the step / process? Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything

Thanks in advance.
Jim.


Offline Dazzler

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline mickd

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Hi,
Well sounds like your raring to get stuck in.
I can't help you but, just  to help the tech heads a bit, could you list the garret number and details for them please 👍
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Offline JHI30

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.


Offline JHI30

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Hi,
Well sounds like your raring to get stuck in.
I can't help you but, just  to help the tech heads a bit, could you list the garret number and details for them please

The turbo is a Garrett 282012A400

Thanks


Offline Dazzler

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I would have thought $500 was reasonable if they know what they are doing and are happy to guarantee their work. $1100 is getting up there.

The fact you have done one before is obviously a big plus.

@tw2005 @nzenigma @cruiserfied can you offer any help/tips for this member?
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Asterix

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline Dazzler

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:

Awesome, thanks for that Henning. Did you pick up a new turbo or a good 2nd hand one? :cool:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Asterix

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:

Awesome, thanks for that Henning. Did you pick up a new turbo or a good 2nd hand one? :cool:

Well, I did buy a new, but it turned up to be wrong part, was missing a threaded hole for a sensor. Supplier couldn't find a suitable one for my model so he got the old one in his repairshop to be refurbished. Now there's no "ambulance siren" sound when accelerating..  :P
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline Dazzler

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:

Awesome, thanks for that Henning. Did you pick up a new turbo or a good 2nd hand one? :cool:

Well, I did buy a new, but it turned up to be wrong part, was missing a threaded hole for a sensor. Supplier couldn't find a suitable one for my model so he got the old one in his repairshop to be refurbished. Now there's no "ambulance siren" sound when accelerating..  :P

 :goodjob2: :goodjob:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline nzenigma

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I agree with Daz $500 is quite reasonable , a good workshop will charge about $120/hr.
Henning has covered all you need to know. Thanks to him :goodjob2:
 Nothing exceptional about the job, especially if you have done this  sort of work before.
Cheers.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline tw2005

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I agree with Daz $500 is quite reasonable , a good workshop will charge about $120/hr.
Henning has covered all you need to know. Thanks to him :goodjob2:
 Nothing exceptional about the job, especially if you have done this  sort of work before.
Cheers.

Had a look in the manual. As stated nothing irregular , normal R & R , attention to detail and correct torque values. pretty boring really.
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline Dazzler

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I agree with Daz $500 is quite reasonable , a good workshop will charge about $120/hr.
Henning has covered all you need to know. Thanks to him :goodjob2:
 Nothing exceptional about the job, especially if you have done this  sort of work before.
Cheers.

Had a look in the manual. As stated nothing irregular , normal R & R , attention to detail and correct torque values. pretty boring really.

Talking about torque values maybe JH will need those?
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline sundiz

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:

Did you happen to take any pictures while doing the job? How were the nuts and bolts after high mileage? I had to use impact gun just to remove the exhaust heat shield when under 100k km...
  • i30 cw 1.6crdi -08


Offline nzenigma

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I would plan any job up in the Arctic well ahead of time and treat all nuts etc with WD40.

Irrespective of the weather conditions, best wishes for the past 100 years.  :goodjob2: :)
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline JHI30

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:
Thanks for this info, much appreciated. Glad that most of the work can be done from top of the engine. I’ve had a look and there appears to be adequate room to move. I’ll be giving this a go on the weekend.


Offline JHI30

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I agree with Daz $500 is quite reasonable , a good workshop will charge about $120/hr.
Henning has covered all you need to know. Thanks to him :goodjob2:
 Nothing exceptional about the job, especially if you have done this  sort of work before.
Cheers.

Had a look in the manual. As stated nothing irregular , normal R & R , attention to detail and correct torque values. pretty boring really.

Talking about torque values maybe JH will need those?
If someone has these torque settings, would be gold!


Offline Asterix

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:

Did you happen to take any pictures while doing the job? How were the nuts and bolts after high mileage? I had to use impact gun just to remove the exhaust heat shield when under 100k km...

No pic's, sorry. I was working outside in the evening with poor light, but everything could be removed with normal handtools. It amazes me every time I need to do a little work on my Hy how easy it is to work on. A German car that age and milage would have everything rusted together..
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline Asterix

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Hi Jim,

What do you consider to be a ridiculous amount?  Have you rebuilt an engine or part of one before? Hope someone who can help you sees this.   :cool:

They’re asking $500 plus. One guy wanted $1100 lol. I’ve replaced a turbo in a car some time ago but wanted to know if there’s anything in particular I should know before I pull it apart.

I agree with Daz $500 is quite reasonable , a good workshop will charge about $120/hr.
Henning has covered all you need to know. Thanks to him :goodjob2:
 Nothing exceptional about the job, especially if you have done this  sort of work before.
Cheers.

Had a look in the manual. As stated nothing irregular , normal R & R , attention to detail and correct torque values. pretty boring really.

Talking about torque values maybe JH will need those?
If someone has these torque settings, would be gold!

I use "adequate torque by hand" settings...  :mrgreen:
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline JHI30

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Hi All,
Thanks for your input with replacing the turbo. All went well with install. I have an issue though. When I first start the car (when engine is cold) everything appears to be fine. Once engine is warm it seems like the turbo becomes louder. It’s very odd. The turbo is brand new but it sounds like it’s the bearings. Could bearings actually become noisy in the turbo once it’s warmed up? It has me baffled. It’s a really odd whine noise, I wouldn’t even call it a whine but more of a grinding / rubbing sound. Anyone have an idea what this could be?


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Offline Dazzler

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 :sweating: Sorry I know that's not much help!
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Asterix

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Hi All,
Thanks for your input with replacing the turbo. All went well with install. I have an issue though. When I first start the car (when engine is cold) everything appears to be fine. Once engine is warm it seems like the turbo becomes louder. It’s very odd. The turbo is brand new but it sounds like it’s the bearings. Could bearings actually become noisy in the turbo once it’s warmed up? It has me baffled. It’s a really odd whine noise, I wouldn’t even call it a whine but more of a grinding / rubbing sound. Anyone have an idea what this could be?


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There should be no noise at all from the turbo, cold or warm. After I replaced mine I can't even hear the turbo spool up, before it was like an ambulance chasing me.
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline nzenigma

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When I first start the car (when engine is cold) everything appears to be fine. Once engine is warm it seems like the turbo becomes louder. It’s very odd. The turbo is brand new but it sounds like it’s the bearings. Could bearings actually become noisy in the turbo once it’s warmed up? ...more of a grinding / rubbing sound.

I'm with Asterix, should be quiet.
I would not keep driving with it making that noise. Have you checked that the oil feed is clear and working? If it is bearing noise, or lack of lubricant, it should be looked at pronto.
 If lube is ok and if it is a genuine Garrett turbo, return it now.

  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline JHI30

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When I first start the car (when engine is cold) everything appears to be fine. Once engine is warm it seems like the turbo becomes louder. It’s very odd. The turbo is brand new but it sounds like it’s the bearings. Could bearings actually become noisy in the turbo once it’s warmed up? ...more of a grinding / rubbing sound.

I'm with Asterix, should be quiet.
I would not keep driving with it making that noise. Have you checked that the oil feed is clear and working? If it is bearing noise, or lack of lubricant, it should be looked at pronto.
 If lube is ok and if it is a genuine Garrett turbo, return it now.

Yeah, oil feed line is all clear. I think I’ll remove and return. Just a pain to do it all again. Thanks everyone for your input and advice. I’ll let everyone know how it goes the second time round.


Offline JHI30

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:
I have to do mine all over again due to a faulty turbo. The shaft play in the new turbo ended up being worse than the original! So I sent it back and I’ve got another to put back on question though, how do you take off the gold metal pipe that bolts onto the manifold? I can remove it from the manifold side but I can’t fit any tools to remove the two nuts on the opposite end. Here’s a pic of that pipe. I left it on last time but unbolted the manifold end. It still gets in the way trying to manoeuvre the manifold to remove it. Would be a lot easier if it was removed. Any advice?


Offline tw2005

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:
I have to do mine all over again due to a faulty turbo. The shaft play in the new turbo ended up being worse than the original! So I sent it back and I’ve got another to put back on question though, how do you take off the gold metal pipe that bolts onto the manifold? I can remove it from the manifold side but I can’t fit any tools to remove the two nuts on the opposite end. Here’s a pic of that pipe. I left it on last time but unbolted the manifold end. It still gets in the way trying to manoeuvre the manifold to remove it. Would be a lot easier if it was removed. Any advice?

Well, would you believe I just happened to replace one myself last week, 2 days in the searing Sun on th eside of the road. :crazy1:

I removed the EGR with that attached but I was hampered by the short water hose under neath which I eventually removed to give claer access to the bolts.

Can't advise on the smartest or correct manner but a lot of cursing was involved at the time.

  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline tw2005

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Are you priming the Turbo with oil in the feed port?
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline nzenigma

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I am also interested in the faulty replacement.   :(  Who supplied it? I assumed it was new. Is it a Chinese knock off of the original?
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Asterix

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Hmm I only used spanners and wrenches. I didn't remove the EGR as TW but I can only repeat him;  a lot of cursing was involved at the time.
  • i40 CRDi 100 kW 2013


Offline JHI30

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I just replaced the turbo on my 2008 CRDi last month.

You must remove the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached, then detach the turbo. All work possible from top of engine, except the oil pipe from turbo to oilpan must be removed from underside. I did this in my carport with just a normal jack so it's possible DIY work. I spend ca 4-5 hours I think.
Mine lasted 280.000 before replacement..  :mrgreen:
I have to do mine all over again due to a faulty turbo. The shaft play in the new turbo ended up being worse than the original! So I sent it back and I’ve got another to put back on question though, how do you take off the gold metal pipe that bolts onto the manifold? I can remove it from the manifold side but I can’t fit any tools to remove the two nuts on the opposite end. Here’s a pic of that pipe. I left it on last time but unbolted the manifold end. It still gets in the way trying to manoeuvre the manifold to remove it. Would be a lot easier if it was removed. Any advice?

Well, would you believe I just happened to replace one myself last week, 2 days in the searing Sun on th eside of the road. :crazy1:

I removed the EGR with that attached but I was hampered by the short water hose under neath which I eventually removed to give claer access to the bolts.

Can't advise on the smartest or correct manner but a lot of cursing was involved at the time.


Thanks for sharing your experience. Sounds like a pain in the rear! Which is why I left it on. I made sure I was extra careful not to bend it too much. Do you have to drain your coolant before removing this EGR?


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