2008 - replacing ball joint, two different types?

Olympicon · **October 11, 2018, 18:22:22**

So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?

BrendanP · **Reply #1: October 11, 2018, 18:47:27**

One type, like the one on my old car, has a threaded body which just screws into the hub carrier. It's a nightmare to get off, needs a 50mm socket and an impact wrench. A local garage did mine. There was nothing wrong with the ball joint itself, it was just the rubber boot that had split. On a genuine Hyundai part, it seems impossible to change the boot alone. I used one from ECP where the boot is removable, so if it splits again, I can replace the boot without having to unscrew the ball joint. Take a look at the ball joint on your car, it's should be pretty obvious which type is fitted.

Olympicon · **Reply #2: October 11, 2018, 20:45:33**

Looking at the workshop manual it just describes the replacement which comes with the ball joint already in that bracket so you just undo the split pin nut then the two bolts holding it up to the hub and it comes off?

BrendanP · **Reply #3: October 11, 2018, 22:24:12**

Even after taking off the castellated nut, you have to press the ball joint out of the lower suspension arm. There is very little space around the ball joint to get the jaws of the splitter in, it helps to put a jack under the lower arm and push it up to try and get it more level. This then opens up more of a gap so the splitter can be pushed into position. One tip is that before taking the wheel off, reach up inside the wheel arch and wrap several turns of 6mm rope around the top and bottom coils of the spring. This stops the spring extending as the car is jacked up, and holds the suspension at a better angle for working on.

tw2005 · **Reply #4: October 12, 2018, 07:42:51**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 11, 2018, 20:45:33

Looking at the workshop manual it just describes the replacement which comes with the ball joint already in that bracket so you just undo the split pin nut then the two bolts holding it up to the hub and it comes off?

Ball joint separator could be useful. It should be obvious which type you have when you look at it

Olympicon · **Reply #5: October 12, 2018, 19:17:29**

Cheers guys. The top one looks like a nightmare to get off! Weird how the manual only describes the bottom type though, think I’ve still got a splitter somewhere too. Garage wanted £77+ the part to do it! They did say that was worst case scenario though and it might not take so long

tw2005 · **Reply #6: October 12, 2018, 20:12:45**

The bolted version is straight forward with the joint separator.

Avoid really cheap parts (FEBEST) off ebay . I did mine and 12 months later the boots were destroyed.

I ended up ordering genuine from korea quite cheap, $100 pair delivered.

The oem do not come with new nut or split pin, they're separate items

nzenigma · **Reply #7: October 12, 2018, 21:43:34**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 11, 2018, 18:22:22

So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?

To get a ball joint out, loosen the castellated nut, take your heavy hammer, then one hit beside the hole in the control arm. Ball joint will become loose.

tw2005 · **Reply #8: October 12, 2018, 21:50:09**

Quote from: nzenigma on October 12, 2018, 21:43:34

Quote from: Olympicon on October 11, 2018, 18:22:22
So I need to replace the lower ball joint on my front drivers side. I’ve looked to buy one but there appears to be two types, one which is just the ball joint on its own and the other where it’s got two mounting holes either side. I take it the later is easier to change but they look like two totally separate mounting systems?

To get a ball joint out, loosen the castellated nut, take your heavy hammer, then one hit beside the hole in the control arm. Ball joint will become loose.

yes, sometimes though they're like Kiwis, bloody stubborn

I had great difficulty with one of mine, refused to release with that method.

Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.

nzenigma · **Reply #9: October 12, 2018, 22:05:34**

Gerard, put your purse down and hit it like a man (KIWI MAN)

Dazzler · **Reply #10: October 12, 2018, 22:25:23**

Quote from: tw2005 on October 12, 2018, 21:50:09

Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.

Don't you just hate those! Messy!

tw2005 · **Reply #11: October 13, 2018, 00:47:35**

Quote from: nzenigma on October 12, 2018, 22:05:34

Gerard, put your purse down and hit it like a man (KIWI MAN)

Bloody Kiwis

nzenigma · **Reply #12: October 13, 2018, 00:56:11**

Quote from: Dazzler on October 12, 2018, 22:25:23

Quote from: tw2005 on October 12, 2018, 21:50:09

Now that i have the breaker I just use that. avoids mis-shits going through the boot if you need to re-use.

Don't you just hate those! Messy!

The consequence of missing target and hitting boot.
The pain is worse when you tend to be a boot-in-the-mouth OZZIE

Olympicon · **Reply #13: October 15, 2018, 18:26:19**

Well thankfully I appear to have the two bolt version. Got a Lemforder unit on the way with a new nut and split pin, anyone got a part number for the two bolts as well? Look like they’ve seen better days may as well replace those too!

tw2005 · **Reply #14: October 15, 2018, 21:00:46**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 15, 2018, 18:26:19

Well thankfully I appear to have the two bolt version. Got a Lemforder unit on the way with a new nut and split pin, anyone got a part number for the two bolts as well? Look like they’ve seen better days may as well replace those too!

1123612357K

Olympicon · **Reply #15: October 17, 2018, 08:52:52**

Cheers! Just rung my local dealer they want £5.50 EACH for the bolts

so maybe I’ll just hope the two originals are salvageable

tw2005 · **Reply #16: October 17, 2018, 08:57:03**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 17, 2018, 08:52:52

Cheers! Just rung my local dealer they want £5.50 EACH for the bolts so maybe I’ll just hope the two originals are salvageable

LOL, what did you expect. If they are stuffed though they are important and having them in good shape and torqued may ave your life

Olympicon · **Reply #17: October 17, 2018, 10:31:14**

I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over

unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait

Dazzler · **Reply #18: October 17, 2018, 11:07:38**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 17, 2018, 10:31:14

I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait

If you know the exact size and spec, you should be able to get high tensile bolts from a specialist bolt shop. But i guess they won't be much if any cheaper.

mickd · **Reply #19: October 17, 2018, 11:11:10**

Just pay the 11 pound , and live .

Olympicon · **Reply #20: October 17, 2018, 11:52:07**

Quote from: Dazzler on October 17, 2018, 11:07:38

Quote from: Olympicon on October 17, 2018, 10:31:14
I’ve found them online for less than $1 so I was hoping not to be completely bent over unfortunately shipping would be over a week so can’t wait

If you know the exact size and spec, you should be able to get high tensile bolts from a specialist bolt shop. But i guess they won't be much if any cheaper.

Very true

Olympicon · **Reply #21: October 17, 2018, 11:53:00**

Quote from: mickd on October 17, 2018, 11:11:10

Just pay the 11 pound , and live .

There is that! I don’t actually know how bad the existing bolts are but 100000 miles sat expose on the bottom of the car probably has done them no favours

tw2005 · **Reply #22: October 17, 2018, 12:18:37**

I paid $17 for a genuine 19mm strut to knuckle bolt once. Insanity but I was stuck with a choice of no car or have it finished and safe. No time for pot luck at the wreckers either.

I check Koraps but with post and time not a huge difference to justify the delay.

I'm assuming the heads are badly corroded by salty roads.

Olympicon · **Reply #23: October 17, 2018, 13:50:49**

Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then

eye30 · **Reply #24: October 17, 2018, 16:04:38**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 17, 2018, 13:50:49

Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then

But just think if you went with any ol bolt and it gave up the ghost while fitting or after a few miles you'll be kicking yourself for being a cheap skate........

Dazzler · **Reply #25: October 17, 2018, 21:48:42**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 17, 2018, 13:50:49

Just ordered them, guess it’s budget baked beans for the rest of the month then

Don't worry, I'm like you. I hate being ripped off. I don't mind paying a fair price but that is a lot for a couple of bolts.

Olympicon · **Reply #26: October 18, 2018, 10:02:39**

When I go pick them up I’ll make sure I rinse them for their free coffee... maybe bring a thermos along

Dazzler · **Reply #27: October 18, 2018, 10:13:55**

Quote from: Olympicon on October 18, 2018, 10:02:39

When I go pick them up I’ll make sure I rinse them for their free coffee... maybe bring a thermos along

Olympicon · **Reply #28: October 18, 2018, 11:54:47**

Got my espresso choc and 10% off the bolts... can possibly upgrade to posher beans now

Anyone got the torque settings for the two bolts and the castellated one? Forgot to check before I went to the car

Olympicon · **Reply #29: October 19, 2018, 22:48:08**

Well the ball joint was well and truly stuck in there, rounded the thread off in my splitter. In my infinite wisdom and frustration got the angle grinder out and cut it off top and bottom.. forgetting it was tapered and wouldn’t just drop out. Cue two garages trying a hydraulic press, gas torch, hammering the **** out of it and an air chisel. Eventually had an engineering works drill the bastard out for a tenner but will be replacing the whole arm I think.
Also managed to catch the cv boot and bend the ARB link rod in the process.

Then did the rear discs and pads and found out one of the caliper boots has a big gash in it and has done for a while so will have to buy a new caliper now, fun