[Purplehazeffc]

Well here we go..    I guess time has come to start the Stereo install
Looking over the car. it doesn't look like it is going to be a lot of fun..
The main problem I have ATM, Is finding a way from the battery ti the interior to run the "0" gauge power cable.
Looking from either the engine bay or under the dash, there is not a great deal of room, or a grommet to use.

I think everything else look straight forward. The doors will need a mount made up to mount the speakers to them.
Getting the source speaker cables should also be easy to find. Running cables from the front to rear & rear back to front
is quite easy as well. The side panels come off so simple. So on that part it will be pretty easy..
Getting the power from the battery to the rear hatch floor.  Not so easy..

Anyway..   Yesterday & this morning I mounted the amps under the rear floor shelf. I made up the MDF board a couple of weeks ago.
As you can see in the pics. I have mounded it on hinges. So there will be easy access to the spare wheel.
I will also be putting in straps with a hook type clip. So it can then be clipped onto the ISOFIX mounts on the back of the rear seats.
So then you won't have to hold up the amp shelf while trying to get out the spare wheel. If needed. Prefer not to need the spare wheel 

Taking out the rear seats is also so easy. Just one bolt & the backrests can just pop out. The bolt is in between where the seat splits, when laid down.
Then lift the smaller side slightly up & then push away from the door side. It will pop off a pin. Then  just do the same from the other side.
The bottom rear seat is then held in by to bolts at the rear. Then there are 2 clips where you just pull up at the front & it pops out.
There is then plenty of room to mount  the Power Distribution Block that goes from 0 gauge to dual 4 gauge.  Also good bolt locations to get a good ground.

So all in all it looks to be a pretty simple install to do. If you have done stereo installs before.  Except for the main power cable. Will work on that..

Here are a couple of pics so far of the MDF shelving & amp & electronic locations..  The blocks that the hinges are mounted to will be painted black.
Plus a few other clean up stuff to do.. Also what to change over the bolts & screws to black. And to clean up under the board a bit better.

But in doing all of this.  And now having the car for just over a month now.   I'm quite underwhelmed by the performance of the factory stereo.
The way the system works is very good. The screen quality is also very good. But the difference in volume is not good.
DAB radio volume is a lot lower than FM, Big difference between music from USB compared to Bluetooth & also if using Android Auto.

So This is going to be more of a long term project.  Back to work tomorrow for 12hrs of absolute fun. So won't be able to do much for the next week or so.

[Dazzler]

  If you squint a bit that looks like a Ferrari engine 

[Crustycottage]

Hi Purplehazeffc
I ran my amplifier power cable from battery into front passenger wheel arch (removed wheel and plastic arch, removed the foam insulation between front wing and door hinges and fed cable through an unused hole just above the passenger foot well interior cover.
This is not easy and generally needs 2 people one to feed cable especially when you add a grommet to the hole. I used stiff thin wire initially and this made it touch easier.
Unfortunately my power cable runs down alongside the main loom under the door trims along with speaker cables. I have tried to keep them apart & dont have any interference   

agree with your comments about factory stereo being underwhelming 

[Purplehazeffc]

If you squint a bit that looks like a Ferrari engine 

Damn, I wish it had the power of a Ferrari engine 

Hi Purplehazeffc
I ran my amplifier power cable from battery into front passenger wheel arch (removed wheel and plastic arch, removed the foam insulation between front wing and door hinges and fed cable through an unused hole just above the passenger foot well interior cover.
This is not easy and generally needs 2 people one to feed cable especially when you add a grommet to the hole. I used stiff thin wire initially and this made it touch easier.
Unfortunately my power cable runs down alongside the main loom under the door trims along with speaker cables. I have tried to keep them apart & dont have any interference   

agree with your comments about factory stereo being underwhelming 

Cheers..   
Next time I'm off work I'll have a look at that.  Is the hole big enough to fit 0 gauge cable??
I'm more looking at sending the speaker cables either down the drivers side (preferred) or down the middle of the car.

The system works really well. But the difference in volumes between sources is pretty bad.
Of course the stock speakers would not be that good. Hopefully with my Morel Tempo Ultras will bring some excitement back

[Crustycottage]

Next time I'm off work I'll have a look at that.  Is the hole big enough to fit 0 gauge cable??
I'm more looking at sending the speaker cables either down the drivers side (preferred) or down the middle of the car.

The system works really well. But the difference in volumes between sources is pretty bad.
Of course the stock speakers would not be that good. Hopefully with my Morel Tempo Ultras will bring some excitement back

yes the hole is big enough probably about ø20mm. As u say though down the middle of the car will be best just alot of work removing seats & carpets.
 i used cheaper Morel Maximus 602 in front. I acquired from ebay some secondhand Focal elite KX2 crossovers so trying to work out how the best place to install them so will remove the cheaper integrated capacitors off the the Morels

[CraigB]

i used cheaper Morel Maximus 602 in front.

Maximus and Maximo are essentially the same speaker as the Tempo, Tempo uses a different magnet/driver that requires an amp but fidelity is the same.

[Purplehazeffc]

Next time I'm off work I'll have a look at that.  Is the hole big enough to fit 0 gauge cable??
I'm more looking at sending the speaker cables either down the drivers side (preferred) or down the middle of the car.

The system works really well. But the difference in volumes between sources is pretty bad.
Of course the stock speakers would not be that good. Hopefully with my Morel Tempo Ultras will bring some excitement back

yes the hole is big enough probably about ø20mm. As u say though down the middle of the car will be best just alot of work removing seats & carpets.
 i used cheaper Morel Maximus 602 in front. I acquired from ebay some secondhand Focal elite KX2 crossovers so trying to work out how the best place to install them so will remove the cheaper integrated capacitors off the the Morels

I don't mind removing seats at all.  The rear ones come out suprisingly easy. The fronts should be as well. I don't think I will remove the carpets though.
Just run the cables under the centre console. Which should come out pretty easy as well.  Then a small hole in the carpet under the console to run cables.
Thats how I done it in my last car & it worked quite well.. I also got my Morels from eBay on a 20% discount eBay offer.
I have already used the crossovers from the Morels in my old car. As I had to replace the electronic crossover.
I had ScanSpeak Discovery woofers & Polk Audio tweeters before.  So hopefully the Morels will sound just as good.
100w per driver should liven them up a bit..

[Crustycottage]

Quote from: Crustycottage on June 10, 2018, 19:51:40
Quote from: Purplehazeffc on June 10, 2018, 09:02:23
Next time I'm off work I'll have a look at that.  Is the hole big enough to fit 0 gauge cable??
I'm more looking at sending the speaker cables either down the drivers side (preferred) or down the middle of the car.

The system works really well. But the difference in volumes between sources is pretty bad.
Of course the stock speakers would not be that good. Hopefully with my Morel Tempo Ultras will bring some excitement back

yes the hole is big enough probably about ø20mm. As u say though down the middle of the car will be best just alot of work removing seats & carpets.
 i used cheaper Morel Maximus 602 in front. I acquired from ebay some secondhand Focal elite KX2 crossovers so trying to work out how the best place to install them so will remove the cheaper integrated capacitors off the the Morels

I don't mind removing seats at all.  The rear ones come out suprisingly easy. The fronts should be as well. I don't think I will remove the carpets though.
Just run the cables under the centre console. Which should come out pretty easy as well.  Then a small hole in the carpet under the console to run cables.
Thats how I done it in my last car & it worked quite well.. I also got my Morels from eBay on a 20% discount eBay offer.
I have already used the crossovers from the Morels in my old car. As I had to replace the electronic crossover.
I had ScanSpeak Discovery woofers & Polk Audio tweeters before.  So hopefully the Morels will sound just as good.
100w per driver should liven them up a bit..

This youtube US Elantra GT video of amp install may be helpful for you. Still not had time to install my front Focal Elite K2 Power crossover yet. 
2018 Hyundai Elantra GT Sport Amp install - YouTube

[Purplehazeffc]

Cheers..    Looks ok. But not a very clean looking install to me..
I haven't done anything else to mine.  With either work & the past week my back playing up.
Crawling around a car running cables is not my idea of fun with a bad back..
Hopefully next week I can get back into it again..

[Dazzler]

Cheers..    Looks ok. But not a very clean looking install to me..
I haven't done anything else to mine.  With either work & the past week my back playing up.
Crawling around a car running cables is not my idea of fun with a bad back..
Hopefully next week I can get back into it again..

Quite Punny! 

But not funny for you! 

[CraigB]

The guy in that vid obviously hasn't heard of wireless sub remotes if he's willing to bolt that ugly controller under the steering column and he's pinched the rubbers on both side around the rear hatch when putting the trim back on

[Crustycottage]

It was probably a good example of what not to do. at least they didn't lose any boot space 

yep Purplehazeffc crawling around the car with a sore back is not ideal. hope it gets better soon 

[Cookie Thumper]

The guy in that vid obviously hasn't heard of wireless sub remotes if he's willing to bolt that ugly controller under the steering column

How can one of these be added ?

I have an Alpine PDX-M12 amp for my subs and purchased the optional Alpine bass controlled which is wired, would love it to be wireless.

PDX-M12 - Alpine Electronics of Australia

RUX-KNOB - Alpine Electronics of Australia

[CraigB]

The guy in that vid obviously hasn't heard of wireless sub remotes if he's willing to bolt that ugly controller under the steering column

How can one of these be added ?

I have an Alpine PDX-M12 amp for my subs and purchased the optional Alpine bass controlled which is wired, would love it to be wireless.

PDX-M12 - Alpine Electronics of Australia

RUX-KNOB - Alpine Electronics of Australia

You would have to have an amp with built in remote wireless/Bluetooth or a head unit with built in volume/gain control and wireless remote.

[CraigB]

If you're handy with electronics there are also some self build options Aiyima VFD Screen Remote Control Digital Volume Control Board HiFi Preamplifier 4 Way Audio Sswitching Power Amplifier AC12V-in Amplifier from Consumer,searchweb201602_0_10130_10152_10151_10618_10132_10131_10133_10059_10696_10084_100031_10083_10547_10624_10546_10623_10307_10548_10341_10065_10340_10068_10343_10342_10103_10620_10344_10325_10622_10621,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=f1cc8a51-0260-4d74-a84b-a11cfc5fffb3&algo_expid=f1cc8a51-0260-4d74-a84b-a11cfc5fffb3-24

[Cookie Thumper]

The guy in that vid obviously hasn't heard of wireless sub remotes if he's willing to bolt that ugly controller under the steering column

How can one of these be added ?

I have an Alpine PDX-M12 amp for my subs and purchased the optional Alpine bass controlled which is wired, would love it to be wireless.

PDX-M12 - Alpine Electronics of Australia

RUX-KNOB - Alpine Electronics of Australia

You would have to have an amp with built in remote wireless/Bluetooth or a head unit with built in volume/gain control and wireless remote.

Bugger, not gunna sell this to buy another so cable'd it is !!

[CraigB]

Bugger, not gunna sell this to buy another so cable'd it is !!

There's nothing wrong with the cabled type, tried and proven just thought controller placement was ugly, most I've seen are placed at the front under drivers seat and if left with no option but to install where he did I would have looked at wireless.

[Purplehazeffc]

Ok..   I think it is time to make a start.  All the equipment here & just sitting in the spare room.
Tuesday afternoon is when I started. And that was with running the "0" gauge power cable from the battery to the boot.
Which all up was always going to be the hardest part..  Taking the left front wheel off & then the plastic inner wheel arch.
Plenty of room back there to move around. But getting from there into the cabin, not so easy..  There are a couple of small grommet holes.
But nothing that would allow getting "0" gauge cable through. So I ended up drilling a hole that goes into a small cavity.
A plastic protection that came with the cable kit into the hole & push through the power cable. Then some black silastic around the cable.
Then to find a spot for the 200 amp fuse holder that will also be easy to get to. I mounted it to the front of the battery holder.
Which made an easy run to the battery.  That was the end of the 1st afternoon. All up that was around 4 hours work..

This afternoon involved running the power cable from the front footwell to the back. & clipping all the panels back into place.
Remove both the halves of the rear seats, which is just 3 bolts for the whole lot.  Find the best spot for the ground cable to go.
Sand all the paint off, so there is a contact & re bolt down nice & tight..  Cut to length the "4" gauge amp power & ground cable.
Find a place for both distribution blocks. ATM I have only used double sided tape to hold them down. As the rear seat pressure should hold them still.
Connect everything up & I think it looks pretty good, given the amount of room back there.. Everything should be well secured..
Again this was around 4 hours work. And didn't get time to run power & ground to the electronic crossover. Though I did run the rca's to the amps.

I'm pretty sure that this will be my last big install of any car stereo equipment..   I'm starting to get to old for this shit LOL   

Next is onto running the speaker cable from the amp & installing the speakers in the front doors..
And getting the signal from the headunit to the rca converter.   But that will be after my next round of going to work..
Just a some photos of the work so far..

[Dazzler]

 

[Crustycottage]

after seeing the size of your whopper "O" gauge I feel mine is inadequate ......my power cable I'm talking about 
it is neat install.
i cut into the green orange cable connectors behind the footwell panels on both sides and then ran high level feeds (speaker cables) into the Audiocontrol LC7i Line Out Converter in the boot along scuff door trims. front door pillar is easy to pull off (4 clips) with trim tool after removing door seal

Good luck

[Purplehazeffc]

after seeing the size of your whopper "O" gauge I feel mine is inadequate ......my power cable I'm talking about 
it is neat install.
i cut into the green orange cable connectors behind the footwell panels on both sides and then ran high level feeds (speaker cables) into the Audiocontrol LC7i Line Out Converter in the boot along scuff door trims. front door pillar is easy to pull off (4 clips) with trim tool after removing door seal

Good luck

Cheers..   I haven't been in a great rush to get this done. So I don't mind taking a bit of extra time making sure it is as neat as possible.
While feeding the power cable through, I kept saying to myself that I wish I would have used "2" gauge cable instead. Would have been a lot easier.
But now that it is done. I'm happy that I did go with the "0" gauge.  As I may end up changing the sub amp to something better one day.

I did look at the AudioControl LC7i or the AudioControl LC2i.   But went with the Rockford Fosgate RF-HLC instead.
I will see how that goes & sounds. As according to AudioControl there maybe lost bass coming out of the factory head unit.

Hopefully on my next round of days off. I can get started on the speaker install. I'm sure they would be better in the car, rather than sitting in the spare room..
Though still deciding on if to mount the tweeters in the factory location or to custom mount them somewhere else.. Factory location would be more stealth though.

Did you end up taking any photos of your install??  How you have your equipment mounted in the boot??

Regards

[Crustycottage]

Hopefully on my next round of days off. I can get started on the speaker install. I'm sure they would be better in the car, rather than sitting in the spare room..
Though still deciding on if to mount the tweeters in the factory location or to custom mount them somewhere else.. Factory location would be more stealth though.

Did you end up taking any photos of your install??  How you have your equipment mounted in the boot??

I have it all roughly installed a Bunnings 9mm MDF shelf in the boot sub floor, with 2 amps, LC7i & added 2 focal crossovers over the weekend with additional speakers cables to front Morel tweeter. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos yet as was under massive time limit from missus.
i am still thinking of buying a set of triangular door trim mirror covers next to A pillar and mounting my tweeters in there so as to direct the signal more accurately towards the sweet spot. As you say the OEM tweeters are in stealth like position, but are a real pain in the but to remove the dash covers even with trim tools & small angled screw driver. 
My upgraded tweeters & OEM ones are angled to bounce of the front windscreen through the dash mat.

I will take some happy snaps when have free time

[Purplehazeffc]

Hopefully on my next round of days off. I can get started on the speaker install. I'm sure they would be better in the car, rather than sitting in the spare room..
Though still deciding on if to mount the tweeters in the factory location or to custom mount them somewhere else.. Factory location would be more stealth though.

Did you end up taking any photos of your install??  How you have your equipment mounted in the boot??

i am still thinking of buying a set of triangular door trim mirror covers next to A pillar and mounting my tweeters in there so as to direct the signal more accurately towards the sweet spot. As you say the OEM tweeters are in stealth like position, but are a real pain in the but to remove the dash covers even with trim tools & small angled screw driver. 

I had a look today under the door trim covers. There is not a great deal of room there to fit tweeters. Thanks to the power mirror plugs.
Which is a pity, as I had them mounted there on my previous car..  I didn't have to much of a drama getting the oem tweeter covers off.
Though the oem tweeters are a bit smaller than the Morels are..  I originally didn't want them there, as they will be muffled by the dash mat.

Finished of the power run this morning. Power to the electronic crossover & the trigger wire to the amps.
I also made the ground cable a bit shorter as well..  Rear seat goes in good as well. no binding that I can see of any cables..

Though I must say. Taking the front wheel off yesterday to gain access..  They are a damn heavy wheel..
Maybe a good upgrade would be a lighter 18" rim & keep the factory tyres..

[Dazzler]

Impressive effort! I am a DYI guy, but wouldn't be game to tackle that! 

[Purplehazeffc]

Impressive effort! I am a DYI guy, but wouldn't be game to tackle that! 

Trust me I'm no professional at anything like this either..
I have installed a few stereo's over the years. But in newer cars it's not as easy.
But it's something that when it is completed will be well worth it. And look no different from stock.

[Crustycottage]

Here are a couple of pics so far of the MDF shelving & amp & electronic locations..  The blocks that the hinges are mounted to will be painted black.
Plus a few other clean up stuff to do.. Also what to change over the bolts & screws to black. And to clean up under the board a bit better.

Hi Purplehazeffc
I been working way too much to make any further progress with my stereo, plus England doing well in World cup has distracted me.....

where did you get the wrap from for your MDF shelf? i want to do the same with my bland board but maybe faux carbon fibre lookie likey   

[ricleo]

great install so far! have been looking and learning in the shadows haha.....

just wondering why not do some sound proofing to the boot and under the seats as well since you have pulled apart the car so much, and also under the wheel arches.

I only replaced my speakers so far and not done anything else, but found that doing up sound proofing improved the sound quality by quite a good amount.

[Purplehazeffc]

Here are a couple of pics so far of the MDF shelving & amp & electronic locations..  The blocks that the hinges are mounted to will be painted black.
Plus a few other clean up stuff to do.. Also what to change over the bolts & screws to black. And to clean up under the board a bit better.

Hi Purplehazeffc
I been working way too much to make any further progress with my stereo, plus England doing well in World cup has distracted me.....

where did you get the wrap from for your MDF shelf? i want to do the same with my bland board but maybe faux carbon fibre lookie likey   

I got that from K-Mart of all places. $2 a roll & was 2 rolls that covered the whole lot.
I did think about going with all black vinyl first.  But I think it blends in nice with the silver amps. Which one was black. So I painted silver to match the HiFonics amp.

great install so far! have been looking and learning in the shadows haha.....

just wondering why not do some sound proofing to the boot and under the seats as well since you have pulled apart the car so much, and also under the wheel arches.

I only replaced my speakers so far and not done anything else, but found that doing up sound proofing improved the sound quality by quite a good amount.

Thank you for following & for the compliment.   I only just got some sound deadening panels on Tuesday. Same as Dynamat. But heaps cheaper. Premium Car Audio Sound Deadener Sound Proofing Noise Control 1.95sq/m DELIVERED | eBay
So the the whole of the rear will be done. And I should have some left over to do some on the front doors as well. Just not sure how much yet.

On my last shift rotation day off. I had the Inlaws staying with me. So I didn't get any chance to do anything else.
Hopefully (Fingers crossed) It should be all done by the end on this month (July)  As I have a total of 9 days off before then.

[Crustycottage]

Some photos of PD stereo installation at last. Wiring into boot still still needs a bit of tidying up.
I have replaced the Morel Maximus 602 components in the front with Focal K2 Power 165 KR with new MDF spacers. I was really hacked off with bodge job that Alberts did on the car for $750 so did it myself.
And even when most issues resolved the Morels to me were still missing that x factor. still have Morel components in rear doors whcih may be changed at later date for Focals. Now the system is making me smile a lot
 
check plate from Bunnings (Vinyl wrap on MDF) 






Front Driver door new 25mm MDF spacer & Focal K2 Power 165 KR woofer. Existing plastic door screw holes reused






LH front passenger door with speaker foam tape that now aligns with door trim and seals. 






Little damage on RH dash tweeter cover.... just didn't want to come out after previous Morel tweeter

[CraigB]

Looks good Scott

The Alberts mob you used in Midland really did a number on you didn’t they nothing like the Cannington boys who did mine, they used MDF spacers on mine as well as morel crossovers throwing away the shit factory resistor plug connector.