[calvinnwq]

The knob that holds the loop strap for the parcel shelf has broken off. First image is the broken knob, second is the good one on the other side.

Any ideas if this is replaceable? Couldn't figure out how to remove it or find this part.

Otherwise any suggestions?

[The Gonz]

 

[Dazzler]

  Calvin,

They are pretty strong, you were unlucky to break one.

Not sure how they secure but if nobody comes up  with a better idea I reckon my mate @The Gonz might be able to make somthing the right shape to fit over the remaining base.

He beat me! 

[Surferdude]

The OPs pictures aren't showing for me.

But Gonzs is.

[mickd]

 

Better make 2 so you can balance the red   

[Dazzler]

The OPs pictures aren't showing for me.

But Gonzs is.

Working for me. One is a picture of the normal log. The other shows the broken lug. Clean snap at the base so looks like a plug rather than a lug.

[calvinnwq]

On the broken side, it looks like the end of a screw. I tried to hand twist the good side to see if I could simply unscrew it, but it didn't budge. Was afraid to use pliers to do it in case the good side snaps off too!

Good idea to 3D print, but don't have one at home. Might get a colleague to help. How would you recommend securing the printed knob on the broken side?

[Dazzler]

On the broken side, it looks like the end of a screw. I tried to hand twist the good side to see if I could simply unscrew it, but it didn't budge. Was afraid to use pliers to do it in case the good side snaps off too!

Good idea to 3D print, but don't have one at home. Might get a colleague to help. How would you recommend securing the printed knob on the broken side?

The Gonz has a 3D printer and an i30... if the replacement was designed to fit over the broken lug some Loctite 401 glue or similar.

[Surferdude]

The OPs pictures aren't showing for me.

But Gonzs is.

Working for me. One is a picture of the normal log. The other shows the broken lug. Clean snap at the base so looks like a plug rather than a lug.

They work on my PC but not my tablet or phone. 

[The Gonz]

If anyone can identity the part online, I could try replicating the whole piece from the image.

[Surferdude]

Depending on the thickness behind the base, I'd be inclined to just try a self tapping screw.

Yeah. I know. Not the best looking solution but, failing all else, with a bit of black paint I doubt anyone would notice.

[The Gonz]

The bump posts by the taillights visible when you open the boot are probably a feasible replacement.

[calvinnwq]

If anyone can identity the part online, I could try replicating the whole piece from the image.

Have been trying to search the part but to no avail. Could only provide the picture of the non broken side.

[Dazzler]

Depending on the thickness behind the base, I'd be inclined to just try a self tapping screw.

Yeah. I know. Not the best looking solution but, failing all else, with a bit of black paint I doubt anyone would notice.

I second that suggestion. I'm sure you'd be able to find one suitable in fact black ones like what come with mudflaps would already be close enough to the right colour and size.  If that worked you could snap the other one off and use two screws so they matched. You would be best to drill a pilot hole in the broken lug. You would risk the lug coming out when you drill the pilot hole but that would then solve your first dilemma.

[calvinnwq]

I'll have a go again tomorrow at seeing if the good side can be unscrewed out. Otherwise I'll look at the self tapping screw option or finding something to glue over. Thanks!

[Dazzler]

I'll have a go again tomorrow at seeing if the good side can be unscrewed out. Otherwise I'll look at the self tapping screw option or finding something to glue over. Thanks!

Don't rush. Gonz will enjoy the challenge of making you something at an extremely reasonable cost. He is a good bloke (not putting him under pressure or anything)

..and talking of under pressure, if anyone can find the part number it is our guru Gerard @tw2005

[tw2005]

I'll have a go again tomorrow at seeing if the good side can be unscrewed out. Otherwise I'll look at the self tapping screw option or finding something to glue over. Thanks!

Don't rush. Gonz will enjoy the challenge of making you something at an extremely reasonable cost. He is a good bloke (not putting him under pressure or anything)

..and talking of under pressure, if anyone can find the part number it is our guru Gerard @tw2005

I've retired from being helpful, I'm joining the dark side and going to be antagonistic from now on. Can't get any darn perts from O'seas and I have Rock Auto being deceptive to a question on freight. There is no economy air freight coming in.  That's from FEDEX,

[tw2005]

P.S. Can you make 2 x friction plates and 2 x steel plates for a A5HF1 trans with these 3D thingies. @The Gonz

[tw2005]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

[tw2005]

817321K000TRY

Held on by a self tapper inside the trim

[calvinnwq]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

[tw2005]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

Did you break it or did it fail? It should be covered except if you caused it to break, costs stuff all o'seas, I'd guess $8-11 here, hit the dealer up or wrecker but you'll likely get stuck with the whole trim so could be counter productive.

[calvinnwq]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

Did you break it or did it fail? It should be covered except if you caused it to break, costs stuff all o'seas, I'd guess $8-11 here, hit the dealer up or wrecker but you'll likely get stuck with the whole trim so could be counter productive.

Car was bought used with it already broken unfortunately.

[tw2005]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

Did you break it or did it fail? It should be covered except if you caused it to break, costs stuff all o'seas, I'd guess $8-11 here, hit the dealer up or wrecker but you'll likely get stuck with the whole trim so could be counter productive.

Car was bought used with it already broken unfortunately.

Bugger!

[mickd]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

Did you break it or did it fail? It should be covered except if you caused it to break, costs stuff all o'seas, I'd guess $8-11 here, hit the dealer up or wrecker but you'll likely get stuck with the whole trim so could be counter productive.

Car was bought used with it already broken unfortunately.

Think you're mistaken

[tw2005]

Is this on a PD that's under warranty?

Still within the 5 year warranty. Not sure if the genuine part is a 12 month warranty.

Did you break it or did it fail? It should be covered except if you caused it to break, costs stuff all o'seas, I'd guess $8-11 here, hit the dealer up or wrecker but you'll likely get stuck with the whole trim so could be counter productive.

Car was bought used with it already broken unfortunately.

Think you're mistaken

sneaky, although it will be hard to justify failure.

[The Gonz]

P.S. Can you make 2 x friction plates and 2 x steel plates for a A5HF1 trans with these 3D thingies. @The Gonz

[The Gonz]

I'm picturing a rather elegant workaround:
- neatly drill through the centre of the broken base
- replicate a spacer that matches the healthy post's profile (3D printed of course!)
- use a self tapper in the new hole to hold the spacer in place

For this idea to take flight (mandatory air force reference) just post accurate measurements:
- upper (head) diameter
- lower (post) diameter
- head thickness and post height
- dimensions of the necessary self-tapping screw

I can use the image of the healthy one to use the measurements effectively and post a 3D file for you to give to your nearest printer, or we can determine postage cost (item manufacturing cost probably less than A$1).
___________________________________

However, googling the part number kindly supplied by tw, and his comment, I suspect the screw comes from inside, in which case you may need to remove the trim before you're able to remove the posts anyway. I that case, It will be simpler for me to design a whole new piece and you can use the screw that should already be there.

[calvinnwq]

I'm picturing a rather elegant workaround:
- neatly drill through the centre of the broken base
- replicate a spacer that matches the healthy post's profile (3D printed of course!)
- use a self tapper in the new hole to hold the spacer in place

For this idea to take flight (mandatory air force reference) just post accurate measurements:
- upper (head) diameter
- lower (post) diameter
- head thickness and post height
- dimensions of the necessary self-tapping screw

I can use the image of the healthy one to use the measurements effectively and post a 3D file for you to give to your nearest printer, or we can determine postage cost (item manufacturing cost probably less than A$1).

I'll report back tomorrow!

[The Gonz]

Never mind, Calvin, I have the design now, no need for specs:



This suggests it indeed fastens from within, so you'll need to get the trim off to replace it.
If you're keen on one, I can do it up this weekend in any colour you like as long as it is red, then you can paint it black or grey to suit.

Confirm with a few details (including diameter to check I have the right scale) in a PM and we can talk dollars cents.